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Foot Control Hydro - New Life for Old Tractor????

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Martin

just keep in mind that the rod must be made to fit the corrected positioning of both the hydro cam control and pump adjustment. don't move either of them once adjusted right. the rod length needs to be made right to suit both of these adjustments.......

 

bill, if everything is in alignment you shouldn't need any extra bearing. you should be able to loosen the bolts at the frame and move the position of the v assembly so that it rides correctly on the bearing....

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ba2988

Worked on the adjustments some more this afternoon with little luck.  Bottom line is I have good neutral position (still when I brake and no creep in either direction) but there is too much travel when I press full reverse which causes the bearing to ride out of the notch.  This leads to a very abrupt stop when I lift off the pedal from reverse as the spring snaps back and the bearing pops back into the V notch.  The remedy mentioned earlier wants to limit the the travel of the bearing on the V by using the rod and trunnion (to the tranny cam under the rear fender) - and I can do this (if I adjust the rod/trunnion to a longer length) problem is when I do this, it creeps in reverse and I can't adjust that creep out.

 

I'm thinking of other options to make it a smoother transition from reverse...modify the V notch for the reverse side - make it less steep with a longer run to the flat part of the bar?   

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Martin

Why don't you try to limit the reverse travel by adjusting the rod at the pedal. I can't get the roller bearing near the end of the v at all before the pedal bottoms out in the footrest. The roller bearing should travel further in forward up the v than it does in reverse. That's why the v is longer on the forward side. What's the ground speed like in forward compared to reverse? The cam at the pump doesn't need to travel all the way through the length of the reverse gate. Only needs to go far enough to give normal reverse speed. If you have more travel in reverse than forward it will go as fast or faster in reverse as it does going forward. You want a faster forward speed than reverse. Since the lever lengths haven't changed from oem, you still have an adjustment problem if reverse is moving out the v.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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ba2988

Thought of that as well...I adjusted the rod that goes to the foot pedal to both the longest and shortest to see what the effect would be but didn't notice much difference.  I've got good speed in both forward and reverse - probably about the same in both.  I'm going to tinker with it some more and see what happens.  Starting to think though, that a little grinding on the reverse side of the V notch to round it out would solve this pretty quickly.  Really appreciate your thoughts on this!

Edited by ba2988

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Martin

just thinking about this again and i can't understand why you are having so much travel in reverse. if you are in neutral and the brake can be applied without moving any of the assembly and the bearing is in the v, then the assembly is only designed to move a certain amount. I'm sure matt designed the v around this movement. 

if the bearing is coming out the bottom of the v, you have too much travel. it sounds like the assembly isn't central to neutral. since the arm that bolts to the hydro cam control is the same length as it, the travel shouldn't change from how the assembly was before you installed the kit. was the tractor operating normally before?

 

i just seen your reply.........

i wouldn't be grinding on the v plate. i still think that something else is not right. i can't believe there would be so much difference from one hydro cam control to another.......

 

matt, are you reading these posts? would be interested in your opinion on what you think is going on here......

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mattd860

Thought of that as well...I adjusted the rod that goes to the foot pedal to both the longest and shortest to see what the effect would be but didn't notice much difference.  I've got good speed in both forward and reverse - probably about the same in both.  I'm going to tinker with it some more and see what happens.  Starting to think though, that a little grinding on the reverse side of the V notch to round it out would solve this pretty quickly.  Really appreciate your thoughts on this!

 

Hey sorry you're having some difficulty with the setup! You definitely have too much cam travel in reverse so something is out of alignment. The cam should only move about half of the distance in reverse that it moves forward. If the bearing is popping out of the v-notch because of too much travel than you need to readjust the rod traveling between the cam and the transmission as noted above. The rod between the cam and the pedal will have no effect on this issue as noted above as long as it's not hitting the floor in reverse. You may want to start by jacking up the rear, setting the parking brake, and adjusting the rod between the cam and the transmission so that the transmission is in perfect neutral. Then release the parking brake and make minor adjustments to both rods as necessary. 

 

If the bearing is popping out of the v notch from the sides, than you need to make sure you've installed the washers on either side of the bearing to keep it in alignment. I've supplied an abundant amount of 1/4" washers in the kit to keep the lever aligned over the bearing. 

 

If none of the fixes above correct this problem then you have some other anomaly or feature that isn't common or normally found on these tractors. It will be a huge help if you can post a video of the problem with your cell phone and post it here or email it to me so I can better assess. 

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Martin

is the hole that is drilled in the side of the hydro cam control drilled EXACTLY as in the instructions?

 

post-4321-0-80857000-1388459175_thumb.pn

 

 

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mattd860

Brian - in addition to Martin's suggestion, make sure the hole is in fact drilled correctly but also make sure the cam has the correct plastic bushings installed. Sometimes these two 1/2" bushings can get worn out and chip away on these old tractors. If they're not re-installed during dissassembly, the cam will be very sloppy and create all sorts of problems like you are experiencing. 

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ba2988

I believe I followed the directions well - measure twice ect (drilled hole with a drill press so it should be very close).   I'll work on getting a vid...what would you need to see Matt - want the tractor running or not in the vid?  Also, thanks for helping out - I'm sure the issues are with me and/or my tractor and not the kit.

 

Brice

Edited by ba2988

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Martin

Brice,

just an fyi......

heres my install....

i replaced the plastic bushings when i did mine as they were trashed......

 

 

video of it running is just a post or two down. you can see how my pedal is setup, maybe something else might stand out in the video thats not right with yours.....

 

I'm sure we can get it sorted for you. just don't start a grinding on anything........

Edited by Martin

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mattd860

I believe I followed the directions well - measure twice ect (drilled hole with a drill press so it should be very close).   I'll work on getting a vid...what would you need to see Matt - want the tractor running or not in the vid?  Also, thanks for helping out - I'm sure the issues are with me and/or my tractor and not the kit.

 

Brice

 

I don't need the tractor running. Just take a video of the cam and v-notched lever while operating the pedal. I want to see the v-notched lever slipping off the bearing. 

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ba2988

Just took it apart to double check the measurements of the hole that I drilled in the cam.  I'm exactly 4 1/16th on the long edge but am actually at 8/16 at center (instead of 7/16) on the short edge.  Do you think the 1/16 variance is causing the issue?  If so...I could elongate the hole or maybe swap from my other tractor and try again.  

 

Here is a link to video before I took apart.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/97170477@N03/11660804384/

Edited by ba2988

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mattd860

Just took it apart to double check the measurements of the hole that I drilled in the cam.  I'm exactly 4 1/16th on the long edge but am actually at 8/16 at center (instead of 7/16) on the short edge.  Do you think the 1/16 variance is causing the issue?  If so...I could elongate the hole or maybe swap from my other tractor and try again.  

 

It could be an issue but I'm not sure it will create the drastic issue that you are experiencing. However, just to be 100% sure I would swap it out from the other tractor. 

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Martin

Brice, two things...

 

first, the extra spacer on the end of the rod where it connects to the hydro cam control, should only be one there...... the rod comes across at a slight angle when looking down from the top, yours looks like it runs parallel with the length of the tractor.

second, i can tell you have way more travel in reverse than forward, can you do another video the same but this time showing the pump brackets etc....?

 

post-4321-0-39311800-1388464822_thumb.jp

Edited by Martin

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Martin

look at where your neutral position is compared with the neutral in my pic above. neutral should be right where the loud clunk is as you are going into reverse in your video. the position is sort of above the point in the bottom of the slot in that bracket. start in that general position and rotate the cam ( large hex under the bolt) to get the wheels to stop rotating and find your neutral......

that is where you should be at the back before attaching your rod......

 

way too much travel in reverse.

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ba2988

Ok - thats making some more sense...I haven't tried to adjust the hex yet. 

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Martin

video is on its way. the hex needs to be adjusted to get the wheels to stop rotating this is what i was trying to explain in post #47 back on page 2

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Martin

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ba2988

Thanks Martin - you have been a big help.  Made some initial adjustments just now and am dying to start it up but that would wake the wife and i don't think she would be very happy!  Such a simple fix - but I had avoided messing with the hex nut due to previous issues adjusting another tractor (and just general lack of knowledge about how the hex nut relates to the rod/trunnion ect.) I'm pretty sure that I'll have this thing dialed in by the morning.  Thanks again!

Brice

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Martin

Brice, the large hex has an off center cam, as you can probably tell by rotating it. it will move that lever connected to the pump quite a ways. when you can start it up, get the back wheels off the ground and rotate it like i said in the post earlier (#47) with the engine running. once you get that fine tuned then its just a matter of adjusting the length of that rod to your new position and you should be good to go. i was really getting worried when you mentioned wanting to modify the v bracket. Matt has put together such a well thought out and researched kit, it should go in easy, without any major work.

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ba2988

Thanks again for all the help - its fully sorted now and works great!

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Teattech827

Are these pedal kits still available 

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mattd860
On 4/4/2019 at 3:22 PM, Teattech827 said:

Are these pedal kits still available 

 

 

Yes they are. Shoot me a  PM. 

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