1976 D-160 points

[dennyandcarrie 9]

I purchased a 1976 d-160 this spring and have question about what type of points and condenser to get and where would be the best place to get them?

It has a Onan 16hp

Model # BF-MS/2929E

Serial # 1753125697

Tractor Identification #'s

61-16os01-03648

I have found a couple of different types but do not know which ones to choose. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Welcome to Redsquare! I don't have an answer for you, but someone on here will be around soon to help you.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

Thanks. I actually just got my answer on the chat. The wires from the condenser that attach to the points were loose. Tightened the screw and the tractor started right up.

[Trouty56 565]

Cool....Let's see that tractor now.... :)

[dennyandcarrie 9]

I will get some pictures up later on.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Thanks. I actually just got my answer on the chat. The wires from the condenser that attach to the points were loose. Tightened the screw and the tractor started right up.

Denny,

when we spoke last night on chat, you asked for a parts # for Kohler points

your post states you have an Onan engine (which is very different than a Kohler engine). Onan part # for points is 201150.

The issue with the condenser being loose essentially removes it from the ignition circuit. The metal bracket on the condenser is actually the electrical ground connection for the condenser.

Chuck

[1maidenfan 201]

:text-welcomeconfetti: TO THE "SQUARE"

You should be able to find ALL the info on your D series tractor right here on

:WRS:

[dennyandcarrie 9]

SOL

Sorry I did not realize I said Kohler. Must have gotten mixed up with everything I was looking at online. It is an Onan 16hp.

Thanks for all your help and the part #'s

Dennis

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Keep us updated on your progress. The 16hp ONAN ignition system is not something that shows up in many posts. I was ready to tell you to check the ignition module - but it doesn't have one !! So it's good to get some exposure on this version of ignition system too.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

Ok. After I found that the wires that are screwed into the points were loose I removed the points and reattached the wires securely. I then looked up the static timing of points with a multimeter and followed the instructions to get the points set. The maintenance manual I have said to put the engine at 25 degrees before top dead center and then rotate the engine another 90 degrees to be sure the points would be at the right position to set the .025" gap. Once the gap was set and checked with the multimeter I put it all back together and it started right up with no hesitation. It is now running better than it has since I bought it this spring.

My next step this fall I think is to learn how to do a valve adjustment and any other engine adjustments that are necessary as well as going through and cleaning the entire tractor. I am reading that the Onan's have valve seat troubles so I hope I never run into that.

I was extremely excited when I found this tractor. It was a one owner purchased in 1976 with the rear pto and three point hitch. It also came with the pto tiller, large front scrape blade and the 46 inch belly mower. The tractor is in beautiful condition the paint is just a little worn from 36 years of use. It also came with all of the original service manuals, service records, and color picture catalogs.

When I get a chance I will post some pictures. I also would like to maybe sometime find a front end loader and some wheel weights.

[JackC 616]

denny, can you do me a favor and measure the distance between the two top lift arms of the three point hitch?

The measurement should be about 20 inches from the center to center at the outer points of the two top lift arms.

Mine are bent inward and I want to be sure of the distance when I have then bent back outwards.

I have not heard of any valve seat problems with the ONAN BF-MS engine.

I have heard of problems with the newer P series.

The way the engine is mounted on the D-160 there should be no cooling problems and the fly wheel fan provides plenty of moving air over the head fins when the engine tins are all installed.

The way the P series is mounted in wheel horse tractors (416 and 520 for example) , the back cylinder is in a tight spot and may overheat.

Thanks

My bent upper lift arms:

[dennyandcarrie 9]

I will try to get out there tonight and measure them.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

I have attached a couple of pictures. I measured from outside of one bar to outside of the other. It measures 13 1/8 inches.

[Trouty56 565]

I got 13 inches from outside to outside of the bars.....

Oops....too late.....lol

[dennyandcarrie 9]

Here is another picture to help you see how it was originally bent.

[JackC 616]

Great, thanks to both to confirm the 13 inch spread.

The pictures help too.

Good thing I did not go with 20 inches.

Since these are category 0 hitches I believe it must be the lower arms that should be able to spread to 20 inches.

Now I need to find a fabricating shop to bend mine back the way they should be.

It looks like they may need to unweld the arms from the shaft, then bend the arms the way they should be maybe with some heat, and then weld them back onto the shaft.

[JackC 616]

Here is what mine look like. It is upside down laying on the counter.

Not sure how they got that way but maybe someone tried to pull something directly from the lift arms.

These are from a 1977 D-160.

[JackC 616]

Denny, your hitch looks pretty clean. When you get a chance let us see some pics of the machine.

Here are some pictures of one of my 1977s. I have two.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

Wow!! I am not sure how those got bent like that. It would take some serious pulling or impact to bend them like that.

Yes my tractor is in excellent condition. I am wanting to clean it up really good this fall and winter. I will post some pictures sometime.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

It looks from the picture that someone has heated it up and bent the arms straight up at the top where the arms are welded to the shaft. As you can see on mine it comes straight off of the shaft about 2 inches then bends out at an angle then at the connection point at the end it straightens back out.

Not sure if the arms will have to be unwelded from the shaft but I think you will definitely need some heat to bend it back correctly.

The bottom part of the hitch can spread out over 20 inches wide but in the picture you can see that the criss crossed chains hold it in place. Mine is at around 21 inches right now.

[JackC 616]

Thanks for the pictures. They will help me get mine back to spec. The lift arms are intended for lifting not pulling. It appears that someone tried to pull something perhaps with ropes tied directly to the upper lift arms. One of the lift arms is even twisted. The steel used in the hitch likely does not have a lot of temper so that they will give or bend before they break.

Your D-160 looks like a nice original that was well taken care of. It looks like all it needs is a little cleaning and polishing to give the finish some shine.

I like to keep things as original as possible including the finish.

If your steering is loose, like on most, there are two adjustments at the bottom of the Ross steering shaft to tighten it up.

You may want to do a compression test to check the overall health of the engine. That engine will still run fine with a fair amount of wear and low compression. I think between 110 and 120 is where the compression should be for a new engine or one with little wear. There should be less than 10% difference between the two cylinders. There is a service and parts manual for it that will tell you about all you need to know.

Good luck with it.

[dennyandcarrie 9]

Thanks for the info. As far as I can tell it is all original and has pretty low hours. I was thinking of doing a compression test but have not yet. Hopefully this winter I will be able to clean it an polish it up and get everything in tip top shape.

Steering seems to be pretty tight but I will definitely keep an eye on it. It is great to be able to talk to people who already have knowledge about what problems commonly come up.