Windolph in the snow

[Lawn Ranger kid 14]

I would love to have a look at that manual. I never knew that there was something like that out there.

[eb in oregon 28]

Today I took the outer "Clutch Facing" (PN E-2048), a fork (PN E-2051), and one of the throw out bearings into McGuire Bearing and found a couple of new thrust bearings that may do the trick. I'll keep you posted. If it works I'll post a number for the bearing.

 

But I already like the new bearings better. Heavy duty with lots of contact area for the forks. And it doesn't have that HUGE radius on the outside of the inner race, and it's about a little less than an 1/8th of an inch thicker.

 

They aren't "sealed bearings," but neither are the bearings that it came with.

Edited April 3, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

These past few weeks I've been working on a bunch of other projects, besides "yard work" and enjoying some other hobby's, so the work is progressing a little slow. After finally receiving my parts for the transmission, I reassembled it and installed the drive train, only to find out that I'd installed the reverse gear backwards. So I removed the drive train, disassembled and reassembled the gear box and installed the drive train. Then I realized I'd forgotten a spacer that goes on the output shaft between the spline coupler in the pinion housing and the gear box. Took it apart again and installed the spacer.

 

My plan then was to complete reassembly of the clutches and dry fit the inner half of the reduction cases. Working on the Windolph yesterday I quickly discovered that the friction plates had been "custom" made and had been either hand drilled or drilled as an assembled package as not all the holes lined up. So, taking them apart, cleaning up everything, but not keeping them in order or matched to the side it came off of means most of the pins wouldn't fit. So I removed the clutches (again), matched the holes as best as possible (insuring that at least two holes on opposite sides were "close" so I could bolt them together on the outer clutch hub. I then ran a 13/32 drill through all the holes using the outer Clutch Facing for a jig, moving the bolts after drilling the first six, and installed the clutches again.

 

I then discovered upon attempting to install the springs what may have been just one of the original multiple issues with the clutches. There are 16 springs (eight per side) and four of them had been replaced sometime in the past. Those four springs were shorter than the others and made from heavier stock. While installing one of those (with the idea of putting two on each side, on opposite sides of the clutch pack) I quickly discovered that they wouldn't collapse enough to allow the clutch to completely disengage. They compressed to "solid" in about 3/32's of an inch, which meant I had almost no movement in the clutch packs. I had measured the springs, checked them all on a spring checker for spring pressure, but had not reinstalled them up to this point.

 

I had already spent hours looking for direct replacements with not much luck. First, the wire size is unusual for these days. The material on the old springs is .110 in diameter. There are no manufactures that supply that size material that I could find. But the wire size isn't really a big deal. More the matter of finding new springs close to the "original springs" physical dimensions and spring pressure. So just buying four replacements was not too probable. There is also the issue that I like to make everything the same, I don't like to "mix and match" unless there is no other alternative. So I was looking for 16 new springs. This morning I finally found a spring that was close to the "original springs" at  Murphy and Read Spring Company. The PN is MCN10003-MW, but they had none in stock at present. So I may have to wait up to two weeks before I receive them. The weird thing is that if I bought 16 springs, item price was $6.83, but if I bought 25 unit cost was slightly more than half that figure. So I ordered 25 springs.

 

The Throwout Bearings (thrust bearings) I bought appear to be the ticket and I'm convinced they will work just fine. They are a "Kobe" bearing, PN 389803. Ever since I started work on this tractor there has been an issue with the clutch forks, one was bent. However it became pretty apparent upon installing the new bearings a few weeks ago that it was the other fork that was bent, not the one I thought. I took the forks to my heat treater and discussed the matter of bending it back. As the Rockwell tester demonstrated that the forks were not heat treated, the possibility it could be straightened seemed probable. I had them Magnafluxed and both showed no cracks. So when I got home I set up the arbor press and gave it a "little push." Looked better. Gave it another "little push" and I heard a "tink." I got it almost to the angle of the unbent fork, but It had developed a small crack. My friend Richard is a certified welder, so I went over to his shop where he cut out the crack and welded it up with a hard stainless steel rod. While he was at it he ground out a small inclusion and welded that also.

 

When I assembled the axle and all the levers and linkage, the levers were much, much better. They are very close now to each other instead of being at different locations when they contacted the bearings, so I could turn the rear clutch stops back around where they are supposed to be. When the axle was rebuilt by the original owner, he had installed bearings so much narrower than the original bearings in dimension, he had to turn the stops around to get any movement in the clutches at all. But in doing so it is quite easy to yank on the levers and either bend or break something. I'm convinced that is what twisted the clutch shaft that started that whole process of manufacturing new shafts and levers. The stops are supposed to prevent that. However the old stops wouldn't work with the levers I made. As re-machining the levers would be an immense pain in the neck, and I didn't want to further alter any original parts, I made new stops

 

 

 

So, that is where I'm at today. Yesterday I had nothing but evil thoughts for my Windolph. Today I think I just might see that "light at the end of the tunnel."

Edited April 23, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

So, here is where I'm at today. After my last post I cleaned up and painted some other parts while waiting for the new springs to arrive. I would have painted the whole thing but removing the engine would be tough by myself, and there just isn't a bunch of friends real close by that could assist. Then it would be a matter of getting the frame outside with the front axle attached so I could power wash it and shoot some paint. I can't wash it indoors, and I'm not shooting any paint of that quantity in my shop with a spray gun. So, pretty much everything got painted that was readily removable and could be painted outside.

 

When the springs showed up last Monday I immediately installed them, and they seemed to be the right thing. I assembled the steering clutch mechanism for each side. However, at the beginning of final assembly, I discovered that the fifth steel clutch disc had shifted a little bit while I was assembling the left clutch. I had pulled one of the drive shafts from one of the reduction boxes to align the clutch discs, as if one doesn't do so, one is not going to get the clutch together soon, or in the required alignment. You really have to stick the drive shaft into the axle, through the outer clutch housing, and then install the friction discs and drive discs in order, with your hand in there, turning and shaking the assembly, while you try to get the splined drive disc onto the shaft. It's a bear. But once done, insert said assembly into the inner drive part of the clutch and you can have a smoke break. Then you can install the springs and pins and cotter keys to complete the clutch assembly. Somehow the shaft had backed out enough during the initial assembly so that the 5th and inner disc had shifted enough to not work. There was not a chance that I could get it to align without removing the cotter keys that hold the pins in, and in so doing, the disc falls totally out of alignment. So, start all over.

 

After the clutches were assembled (this was like the fourth time) I assembled the steering clutch mechanism for each side (using the new thrust bearings), dry fit the inner reduction box housing and worked the clutches many, many times. Nothing broke, they seemed to be the right springs and things looked good. I then final assembled the axle, reduction boxes, drive wheels, and tracks. As the tracks had been outside for a few months, they were a little rusty and required a little oil on the pins to smooth things out. But, it all went together without any drama as I'm getting pretty good at taking this thing apart and putting it back together. Once assembled, with my new manufactured lever stops and turn buckle linkage installed, everything looked "A OK." Again I worked the levers many, many times, with no problem. When pulling back on the lever for either side, it was pretty easy to grab the track and pull it around. The clutches were working like "Gang Busters." I got it all ready for "a spin," minus fenders and other stuff. I want to make sure it works before putting all the other hardware back on.

 

Yesterday I refilled all the gear boxes with 140 weight gear oil and prepared for action. I fired it up, carefully selected "Reverse," eased the "Master Clutch" into engagement, and backed out of the shop. As I was backing out I tried to engage the right steering clutch to turn and I heard and felt a "pop." Then the clutch was dead. I slowly drove it back into the shop.

 

This morning I tore the right side off again, and it was as expected. The rather large round "C" clip the holds the thrust bearing and clutch assembly had pop'ed off. Looking with a flashlight, the groove looks like it needs help. The "C" clip didn't appear to be in unserviceable condition, but looking at it with a magnifier this morning I can see some wear that may have exacerbated the situation. I think I should have just replaced them both. So what happened was that the pressure of working the clutch had allowed the "C" clip to push out of the groove. I'm pretty sure this will require the removal of the right clutch, welding up and re-machining the groove. But I know what is wrong. I will fix it. As my friend Richard tells me on occasion, "Eric, it's only a machine."

 

True story, it is only a machine. And I will fix it or it will kill me. There is no other option.

Edited May 18, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

I haven’t posted regarding the work on my Windolph for a few months. A few weeks after my last post, while researching my problem and searching for parts I injured my right knee and was basically “out of action†for most the summer while it healed. I might have gotten better sooner if I’d of stayed off it for a few weeks, but no, I had to continue to stump around and work in the yard and other things. I made it worse, and after finally getting an x-ray and an MRI stayed off it for better than a month. As I’m finally getting better, last week I finally started work on Windolph again.

 

The problem with the thrust bearing coming off was a result of several factors. The bearing that was originally operating the clutch pressure plates was too thin and changed the geometry of the operating assembly. I had picked up two new bearings that I believed would function. However that wasn’t the case. The “original†bearing has a large radius on the ID of the outer half of the inner race that captured the .170 diameter circular clip the holds the bearing on. The replacement bearing didn’t. It appears that the radius bears on the circular clip and keeps it from popping out of the groove. I have to think that as those bearings worked before I started messing with this thing. As the new bearing didn’t have any feature that would do the same, I figure it pushed the ring off the first time I activated the clutch under power.

 

 

 

What to do? As I thought about the matter while off my leg I decided to make two new pressure plates from scratch. I had several circular plates that would function as the back portion of the pressure plate. I purchased some seamless tubing 2 inches in diameter with a 3/8ths wall thickness. I punched a 2 inch hole in the plates that gave me a two thousandths press. I cut my tubing 3/16ths longer than I thought necessary and faced each end with a 45 degree chamfer on the back end and pressed them into the plates, having a friend who welds better than me (and had a wire welder instead of using my stick welder) weld them up. Two passes on the back side to fill the groove completely and three on the front side.

 

 

 

 

 

I then machined them to the dimensions of the original pressure plate, but exactly on size (-.001) instead of being about six thousandths under. The only thing I did totally different was to move the location of the circular clip groove back 9/32ths, which would place the “original†bearings back side in the same location as the new bearing that I thought would work, but didn't. I also had to shorten the assembly 1/8th (which I believe makes no difference in function) as I discovered the reason for the concave center of the back side of the pressure plate. It's for clearance so you can get it into the axel case. It wasn’t possible to easily machine that feature with the materials I had on hand, so I shortened the tube just enough to slip the pressure plate into the case.

 

 

 

 

I assembled the right side yesterday and it appears that it will work just fine. However while attempting to put the track back on I couldn’t get the ends to meet. After scratching my head I was looking at the right front wheel assembly and noticed that the right front “Spindle hanger" had fractured completely through. This allowed the front hub to rotate forward just enough that the track cannot be joined. These two parts are basically a cast steel hub with a 3/4 x 10 nut welded on to the casting with what appears to be a length of 3/4 cold rolled, threaded on each end, screwed into the nut, then welded. I'm thinking about a grade 8 bolt 13 inches long welded to it after "prep'ing" the casting for fit. I don’t know if Windolph made them like that or if they are repaired parts. I will say that if they are original, Windolph’s welders were pretty crude. So now I’m shopping for two new bolts in a grade 8 so I can cut off the old bolt and weld on a new one.

 

 

 

It is very frustrating in that just as soon as I get something repaired I find that either it breaks and has to be remanufactured of different material or something else breaks. I've also discovered that these tractors were manufactured in a way that contributes to frustration as it is built in a manner that requires the mechanic to disassemble a whole bunch of other things just to get to the broken or worn out feature. If the drive train has a problem the whole drive drain must come off, or the engine must be pulled. The broken Spindle hanger requires the entire cross member be removed to re-install the repaired part, which necessitates removing both front wheel assembly's and draining the reduction box's as the rear support straps welded to the cross member are bolted to the bottom of the reduction box's. But I won’t give up. And I’m telling you, I will never ever buy another antique again that does not have reproduction parts available. I will say however that I believe there isn’t a more qualified Windolph chassis mechanic in the world than myself at this point. And I’ll bet that I’ve made more parts myself than any other owner.

 

Oh, at this juncture I’d like to thank the "Lawn Ranger Kid†for his advice on how to compress the front axel spring, it worked like "a champ.†I never would have thought of a two foot pipe wrench and a six foot length of 2 inch water pipe. I had to borrow it, but it works swell.

Edited August 10, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

I finished the right side. I made a new "spindle hanger" with a 3/4x10 grade 8 bolt, 13 inches long. I removed all the weld and the remaining bolt. I was able to grind to the face of the nut welded to the hub. I drilled a hole in the center of the remaining bolt and removed it with an "EZ out." I re-tapped the nut, and cleaned the threads. I shortened the bolt so it would bottom out in the nut, but just compressing a washer and lock washer from the cross member.

 

 

As the bolt goes through the cross member, and screws into the hub, it basically keeps things in place, but not in a critical sense. The bolt essentially keeps the hub from rotating, but the hub also has two set screws that engage the axle, so it is not essential that the bolt is nutted on both sides of the cross member. The bolt is screwed tight to the hub. A cinch nut on the bolt keeps the bolt tight. If I get the feeling it needs more, "Locktite" will suffice. I don't think anything will move. And to drive the bolt back one would have to crash pretty hard to bend the front axle.

 

 

I now have the right side competed. I tore down the left side today, replaced the outer clutch pressure plate with my fabricated assembly, and assembled the left rear axle. Now I'm fighting the left front hub stabilizer as it did not present the basically "painless" process as the right assembly did. That last piece of bolt doesn't want to come out. I'm trying to bore it out enough to pick out enough of the old threads to start a tap. I may have to cut off the old nut and weld on another.

 

That's for tomorrow.

Edited August 18, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

Well, it worked out sort of "good."

 

The clutches are working better, however I think that I should of set the bearing back another few fractions of an inch,

 

The tractor is working. For the most part.

Edited August 20, 2014 by eb in oregon

[eb in oregon 28]

Well, I'm getting tired of talking to myself again, so here is the last "installment."

 

The pressure plates seem to work OK, but I think that the throwout bearings are still a bit of a problem. In that the tractor steers quite well in first gear, but not so well at higher speeds. To turn in 2nd or 3rd gear the brakes must be used a little. I may start all over this winter and "fab up" something different. The Spindle hangers work just fine. The engine runs swell, I finally figured out the right combination of spring and throttle linkage. I will be "tweaking" it a little later.

 

I haven't driven the Windolph since the 19th. Later that day after finally putting around the yard for the first time in months I lost my focus during some chipper work and consequently lost a couple of my finger tips in it. Until my hand heals I'm not doing much.

 

I hope you have enjoyed my postings, as it hasn't been all that much fun getting to this point. I'm done now.

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

no dont stop now  i always enjoy reading your post's, i'll try to reply a bit more here so you don't have to talk to yourself

 

 

 

Koen  

[AMC RULES 36,941]

Sorry to hear about the chipper incident Eb...

pray you're on the mend now.    

[dcrage 621]

Eb. I for one have read all of your posts. I have no expertise in what you are doing hence no comments. But I am learning bits and pieces. Hope your hand heals well.

[eb in oregon 28]

The Windolph is waiting in the shop for me, but I'll be away for a few weeks. No problem, I'm not 100% right now anyway.

 

I'm fine. I've lost about 3/16ths of an inch of my left Middle Finger, and the Fingernail. My Ring Finger will have a "funny" nail. As I'm left handed, it has been a challenge, but it's all good. I still have a hand. But, it is strange. I've worked a whole life with tools that take arms and things. Makes me sort of mad that I "got bit" now.

[eb in oregon 28]

Windolph Tractor Repair Notes And Modifications

 

The purpose of these notes is to share knowledge obtained by working on, manufacturing parts for, and operating the Windolph Crawler Tractor.

 

Once one has worked on a Windolph, that person will understand that taking shortcuts, or “blowing off†replacing a marginal part, will be sorely regretted at a later (usually sooner than later) date. While a truly admirable piece of machinery because of it’s small size, unusually fine pulling ability, and straight forward engineering, major repairs can be painful to perform.

 

To demonstrate, any failure of the drivetrain requires removing either the entire rear axle assembly or the engine. This is a direct result that the drive train is a series of assemblies, shafts, and couplings splined together. They cannot be removed except for removing one or the other ends. And after performing that task four times, I’d recommend removing the engine before the rear axle. Of course that supposes that there is not also work in that rear axle assembly that is required. I only point out that to remove the rear axle requires that the entire return roller assembly for each side must be removed also. It is all tied together in such a manner that the rear axle simply cannot be removed with the return roller assemblies attached. Unless of course one has the means to support the frame (solidly, as it is usually a fight to get the axle housing into the frame) and a good size “Cherry Picker†to support the axle and the return roller assemblies. It is much easier to remove the engine with that “Cherry Picker."

 

Another point is the front axle assembly. This is tied mechanically to the “Cross Frame†with the two “Inner Stabilizer Bars†and also supports the return roller assemblies. The two torsion springs on the front axle provide support to the front hubs and put tension on the tracks. It is hard to remove the “Cross Frame†as the tension of the torsion springs must be relaxed, so that it can be unbolted from the frame, so that the “Inner Stabilizers†can be removed, which must be done to work on any repair to the front axle. It cannot be removed without releasing the tension of the torsion springs. To do other wise would be perilous to the individual attempting repairs as there is a lot of power in those springs, and as they are irreplaceable (without great expense) they cannot be damaged or broken. These notes will be discussing the work performed on different assemblies and any modifications performed. The detail of manufactured parts will only discuss the parts made, and not get into sizes or dimensions in detail.

 

The Rear Axle Assembly - Removal and Installation

 

In the event of the need to service or repair any component of the drive train, either the rear axle or the engine must be removed due to the earlier mentioned design of the drive train. It is recommended that the engine be removed for service of the drive train, however for reasons best known to the mechanic, sometimes the rear axle must be removed. While removing the rear axle is a straightforward affair, it requires disassembly of the entire track assemblies and return roller assemblies.

 

This is a result of the fact that the inner and outer rails of the return roller assemblies bolt to both the Cross Frame and the rear axle. Lacking the necessary equipment to support the tractors frame, and the equipment to support and remove the entire axle and return rollers as an assembly, the mechanic must remove the rails, then the axle. And, depending on the equipment available, the mechanic may have to disassemble the rear sprocket and final drive cases in order to remove the axle.

 

If overhead support is available (cherry picker, engine hoist, or crane) the rear axle may be removed as a single assembly to include the sprocket wheels and final drives. After removing the return roller rails, and unbolting the inner final drive from the two 2 x ¼ support straps that are welded to the cross frame (and thus draining the final drive cases), support the axle with straps and the overhead support. Remove the two frame bolts that tie the axle to the frame, and unbolt the portion of the drive train that is appropriate. The drive train can be unbolted at the connection of the pinion housing, or any component in-between. The entire drive train (to include the master clutch) can be removed with the axle, however that is a cumbersome and awkward event when working alone. The recommendation here is to only remove up to the transmission. The PTO housing and master clutch are better removed later, if necessary.

 

Once the rear axle is removed, the work necessary can be performed and the axle reinstalled in the reverse of disassembly. If work is contemplated in the steering clutches, the final drive cases must be removed from the axle casting to gain access to the clutch packs.

 

Steering Clutches

 

To gain access to the steering clutches, again the return roller rails must be unbolted and those assemblies removed. The outside return roller rail is unbolted from the cross frame (two bolts on top), the two outside 3/4x10 nuts that bolt the return rollers to the rail are removed, then the center bolt of the outer rails support bearing is removed. Generally the outer rail can be removed without having to disassemble the bearings cap. The drive sprocket and hub assembly can be removed at this time, or later while the final drive is draining.  The inner rail is then unbolted from the cross frame (two bolts) and the final drive outer casing, two more bolts. Then the inner rail and the return rollers can be removed as a unit.

 

There is a strap that runs from the cross frame to the bottom of the inner final drive casing. Remove the two bolts on the bottom of the inner final drive casing and let the final drive drain. Those two bolts not only tie the rear axle to the cross frame, but are the drain plugs for the final drive. As the final drive is draining, the drive sprocket can be removed if not already done. It is recommended that the cover on the rear axle housing be pulled (12 bolts) and drained at the same time. Once drained, the 13 bolts that bolt the outer cover to the inner case are removed, and the outer cover pulled. It is heavy and awkward as it holds the final drive gear and the stub axle, and there are sharp edges on the outer cover, so please use gloves.

 

There are three bolts that bolt the inner final drive casting to the rear axle housing. The inner and bottom bolt is usually a little shorter than the two outside bolts, so it is recommended to compare the three bolts when removing. The key element here is that when reinstalling the inner housing to the rear axle housing that the bolts do not “bottom out†prematurely and then not compress the lockwasher completely. The inner housing of the final drive holds the drive axle and brake drum for that side of the tractor. It too is heavy and awkward with sharp edges. The drive axle plugs completely through the clutch pack. It aligns the clutch discs and inserts into the pilot bearing of that particular clutch.

 

Once the inner cover and axle is removed, the mechanic has access to the clutch pack. A word of caution here: once the inner cover has been removed, do not activate the clutches. Again, the drive axle aligns the clutch discs by splining and the movement of the clutch being worked without the axle can allow one or more of the discs to misalign. With the close tolerances and number of splines it does not take much to be out of alignment. Doing so usually requires the mechanic to completely disassemble the entire clutch to realign the discs. This will be covered extensively later.

 

At this point the throwout bearing can be serviced or replaced. It is held in place by a rather large circular clip of approximately .170 wire diameter that rides in a shallow groove on the outer pressure plate of the clutch assembly. This clip is best removed with a strong pair of flat-jawed lockring pliers. At the time of writing no direct replacement of the original Windolph throwout bearing has been located, so at this time no part numbers are offered or suggested. Modifications can be suggested, but no recommendations are offered.

 

If the clutch pack is being serviced, the throwout bearing and retaining clip are removed, then the clutch lever assembly. The control rods are first removed from the clutch lever by pulling the cotter pin as well as the clevis pin on the clutch lever, and then swinging it out of the way. Then the clutch lever and its shaft is pulled directly up and out of the casting. The clutch fork should be supported during this action, and when the lever and shaft have been pulled, it is removed.

 

Once this is done the clutch may be disassembled. Looking through the back of the axle housing it is possible to see how the clutches are assembled. There are six (6) fiber friction discs and five (5) steel clutch discs, sandwiched between the inner and outer clutch pressure plates. These are held together with eight (8) steel pins, which are held in with a cotter pin on the inside end of each pin. Sandwiched between the headed end of the pin and the outer clutch pressure plate are eight (8) clutch springs.

 

 

 

 

 

Taking a pry bar and inserting it into the housing between the head of a pin and the vertical edge of the housing you can then compress the spring and the cotter pin for that pin may be removed. Remove the entire pin and spring, as when the pack is rotated it will interfere with the case on the far side. If the pin is pulled and the spring is removed, the pin can be reinserted to hold the discs together until all the pins are pulled. Once the pins have been removed the clutch discs will fall to the bottom of the case and they can be removed. It is recommended that the discs be kept together as a set, in the same order, oriented in the same direction, for the same side, until it has been proven to the mechanics satisfaction that this is not necessary. The outer pressure plate must be removed via the back of the axle housing. It will not fit through the end of the axle.

 

When the writer of these notes disassembled a set of clutches the first time, it was believed that all the discs were interchangeable, so they just got cleaned and mixed up. Upon assembly it was discovered that they had been stacked and drilled, using the outer pressure plate as a drill jig, and that mixing them up insured that only two or three pins could be reinserted upon assembly. As there was a small difference in all the multiple holes of all the different parts, assembly was impossible. What occurred was that the packs were again removed; the friction discs stacked on the outer pressure plate, aligned with at least two pins, and again drilled using the pressure plate as a jig. So, don’t mix them up until you check a few of them to see if the holes are all in the same place.

 

Unless it is necessary to replace the ring gear bearings, this is essentially as far as the mechanic need go in the rear axle. However the removal of the inner pressure plate and bearings appear to be straightforward. Remove the nut holding the inner plate on, and then the bearings. I cannot give any information on that as I’ve not had a need to go that far.

 

Reassembly is in the reverse, with these suggestions. Remove the drive axle from the inner final drive case. The brake drum is held in place with a single circular clip. Remove it and the axle can be pressed out of the case. Use it as the alignment tool for the clutch pack when assembling them. The outer pressure plate is inserted into the housing through the inspection hole on the rear of the axle case and the drive axle inserted into it through the outside end of the axle. The friction discs are placed in position, with a steel disc in between then, alternating the two. It is a chore to get the steel discs onto the drive shaft. The best method found was to hold the axle in one hand (right for right, left for left) and the steel disc in the other. Shaking both slightly, work the disc onto the axle, trying to turn it slightly to align the splines. Realistically speaking, this job is one of the most frustrating actions ever performed by this writer. It takes some shaking, some turning, and some ozone disrupting words to finally get the whole thing back together.

 

However, once the last disc has been placed and the axle inserted into the pilot bushing, the mechanic can breathe a sigh of relief. For the moment. Leave the axle in place when reinserting the capture pins, and its best to insert all the pins to check fit before installing the springs. If all the pins go back in place (push then in as far as possible) pull each one out one at a time and install the spring on the pin. Then again, use the pry bar to compress the pin until the cotter key can be reinserted. Alternate the first two pins 180 degrees apart to put equal pressure on the clutch pack. After the first two pins are installed just work around the pack and install the remaining six. Two points here: make absolute sure that the axle stays in place and does not work its way out. To do so will virtually insure one of the inner steel disc may fall off the axle and the mechanic will have to disassemble the clutch and start all over. Don’t forget to spread the cotter pins after installing them. To not spread the pin will insure that if one of the clutch springs breaks the cotter pin will fall out, the long pin will back out, and it will break all sorts of things that one would rather not have broken. If the cotter pin breaks its all over anyway, so I’d use new cotter pins each time. They aren’t that expensive.

 

Once the clutch has been reassembled, grab the axle shaft, give it a few good wiggles and twists and remove it. It can be used for both clutches, as the majority of drive parts are the same on each side. Once the clutches are both finished the axle is reinstalled in the inner final drive casing it was removed from, the tractor is reassembled in reverse order of disassembly. Again I will caution the reader to not “play†with the clutches until the inner final drive cover has been reinstalled. Once the case is back on and the drive axle in position, the clutches can be tested. Try “dry fitting†the case without sealant if there is any question of something not working correctly.

 

 

Manufactured Parts for the Steering Clutches

 

Parts that have been manufactured for the Windolph steering clutches include the clutch fork shaft, clutch throwout arm, and the outer pressure plate for the steering clutches. The difficulties of manufacturing the clutch fork shaft entail the heat treat of the shaft and the appropriate material. Three different materials have been tried and the best choice appears to be 8620 steel. The original shafts appear to be 8620 and it is a good material choice for many applications. One set of shafts were made using 4140, however it was unsuccessful due to the original method of assembling the shaft and lever, which was welding. It is critical that the heat treated shaft and the lever are pre-heated to a specific temperature before welding otherwise crystallization of the welded area is pretty much assured, and breakage is sure to follow. To make these shafts was pretty straight forward, with some changes in the original design.

 

The original assembly was made with an 8620 shaft welded into the cast steel throwout lever. The shaft length was only long enough to pass through the clutch fork and then about an inch and a half into the lower portion of the axle housing. It had nothing to retain it in the housing other than pressure of the parts working together. This was changed. The final attempt resulted in the replacement shaft being made to pass through the entire axle and it has a positive stop screwed into the shafts end. The positive stop is basically a 1/8 thick by ¾ diameter precision washer held in place with an 8-32 socket head screw. It also had a circular clip groove cut for a dual retaining system, but it appears that that was unnecessary. The shaft was turned out of ¾ inch 8620, machined to a .625 diameter for most its length. The lever end is kept at ¾ diameter for interface with the new manufactured lever. The shaft is cut for the 3/16 keyway and then aligned and pressed into the new lever then cross-drilled for a 5/16 shoulder bolt. It is then pressed apart and the shaft heat-treated to around 55/56 Rockwell. The lever needs no heat treat (it is strong enough for the forces required) and the lever was made to approximate dimensions. Basically the critical dimensions are the center-to-center dimension for the shaft and the pinholes for the connecting rod and the slot for the connecting rod.

 

This information will be expanded in the future.

[srukke 18]

 

A gentleman that I've just made the acquaintance of in the last couple of months via email, and lives in Poulsbo, Washington, just mailed me a copy of a Windolph Tractor manual. Those Model "C" pictures I posted are his tractor. We had exchanged a few emails regarding our tractors and how to work on them. I'd mentioned I needed part numbers for a particular piece and he mentioned he's had some numbers. I replied that I wouldn't mind having those numbers and a few days later a large envelope shows up with a manual, at his time and expense. Dana, you are truly awesome and I owe you. I tried to email you to tell you how grateful I am, but I've only the email "addy" routed through Craigslist. It has expired.

 

 

 

 

Edit: Dana gave me a telephone call last night and I got his email "addy," so we are good. This morning I sent him a couple of pictures of the Windolph data plate screwed to the front of the tractor. I'm telling you what, we get any more of these tractors showing up and maybe we can pool enough information so we can make them all "good." I will say though that I wish like the dickens that a maintenance manual could be located. The owners manual is good, but it lacks some things.

 

I find it interesting that Windolph is misspelled on the cover of the manual.

[eb in oregon 28]

It turned out that it's not really a factory manual, but a compilation of notes by a collector. I've met him, he's a nice guy. He put the book together originally. That's his cover, spelling and all.

[srukke 18]

It turned out that it's not really a factory manual, but a compilation of notes by a collector. I've met him, he's a nice guy. He put the book together originally. That's his cover, spelling and all.

Me bad. Assumed it was factory. I have a manual with mine also with lots of parts numbers in it. Has the transmission parts diagram with parts numbers. Tells what fluids to use etc. Says to use 140w pure mineral oil in the gear cases. Not sure if it's a put together manual. It has a lot of the ads with prices also so it may be a compilation. I will get it scanned and posted. I have photographed each page individually in the meantime.

Edited December 1, 2014 by srukke

[srukke 18]

eb, your info on the brakes helped a lot. They were actually quite easy to remove and I am having them relined tomorrow. I was expecting it to be more difficult in getting them out. Looks like they will also go back in pretty easy. I photographed the process if anyone needs them.

[eb in oregon 28]

As the brake bands are flexible I just looped a length of stout cord (parachute cord) around the brake drum and pulled them through when replacing them. It isn't really an issue of "difficult" as much as cramped spaces. When I replaced my linings I put stainless steel washers in-between everything on the pins to help keep the linings centred on the drum. Mine had a ridge on the outside of the lining as the strap had cocked a little and once it wears a little ridge it will only get deeper.

 

Is the cover of the manual you have similar? The one I was given has the list of part numbers grouped as assembly's, along with some maintenance information. Also has copies of old sales brochures, as your's seems to. It is a little disorganised. I had typed the whole thing up with some corrections and organised it better, but I accidentally deleted it while cleaning some old files out of my "box." And no, I hadn't backed it up. What a chump.

[srukke 18]

As the brake bands are flexible I just looped a length of stout cord (parachute cord) around the brake drum and pulled them through when replacing them. It isn't really an issue of "difficult" as much as cramped spaces. When I replaced my linings I put stainless steel washers in-between everything on the pins to help keep the linings centred on the drum. Mine had a ridge on the outside of the lining as the strap had cocked a little and once it wears a little ridge it will only get deeper.

 

Is the cover of the manual you have similar? The one I was given has the list of part numbers grouped as assembly's, along with some maintenance information. Also has copies of old sales brochures, as your's seems to. It is a little disorganised. I had typed the whole thing up with some corrections and organised it better, but I accidentally deleted it while cleaning some old files out of my "box." And no, I hadn't backed it up. What a chump.

The cover page is different. It just says Operating instructions for the model B, C and Perrin. Read thoroughly before operating. I think it's also a conglomerate of info.

[eb in oregon 28]

Something is better than nothing. 

[srukke 18]

Eb, any way to get a copy of this manual? I also have a pdf'd manual and we can compare and share. We need as much info on these as we can get.

[eb in oregon 28]

Went out in seven parts this morning by email.

 

eb

[srukke 18]

Went out in seven parts this morning by email.

 

eb

Hmm, nothing in my in box. Where was it sent to? I appreciate you sending this.

[eb in oregon 28]

It appears we have the same book. I've looked through what you sent and it looks the same to me. Just a different cover. It was worth a try.

[getsmartt 1]

Just acquired a pile of parts, that is supposed to be a 50 something Windolph Crawler.  I have posted some pictures in the "James's Windolph Before Pics" album. And I will be reviewing this thread for every bit of relevant info that I can find before I start rebuilding this thing.

Quite a few things 'wrong' with this pile of parts, 

1. the engine is not original, as a matter of fact not sure what this engine is.
   

2. it has a 4 speed tranny vs the original 3 speed.
3. It has been cut-upon, beat-upon and welded-upon.
   1. front sprockets ground off
      

   2.  

      Motor mounting brackets welded on.

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

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