AHS 1,593 #1 Posted 21 hours ago New to me! Oil change/ hydro oil filter/air filter. Fuel line/ petcock and filter change… and it’s running! (It’s running in the picture). Ive taken off the carb bowl and cleaned it out. Cleaned / Sprayed out the high and low speed screws. (Kohler spec) Set them to 2 1/2 turns out and it runs BUT…. It takes a long time to fire up. Let’s. Say you flip the throttle quickly.. it’ll die. But, wont if you gradually increase the throttle. What is the culprit that’s making it die when you throw it suddenly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 45,418 #2 Posted 21 hours ago Try adjusting the carb a bit richer. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,100 #3 Posted 21 hours ago My old Magnum would do that until it warmed up. Speaking of which- let it run a few minutes and set the carb needle valves then. You'll likely see a big difference. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,185 #4 Posted 20 hours ago Initial carb settings are just that, initial to get it running. ALL engines should be adjusted (if adjustments are available to do so). Each engine has different hours, different wear, different compression etc etc etc. Adjustments to that particular engine's conditions should help It's also a good idea to clean out those little holes in the long high speed needle. Braided copper wire and untwist the braid to a single strand. then spray it out too. 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,841 #5 Posted 19 hours ago Long fuel line is most likely the culprit IMO. If you consider an electronic fuel pump wired to the "I" tab on the ignition you will be able to fill the bowl on the carb before you crank it and will likely see a great improvement. A fuel bulb is a cheaper and easier solution. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 17,100 #6 Posted 19 hours ago 13 minutes ago, ineedanother said: If you consider an electronic fuel pump wired to the "I" tab on the ignition you will be able to fill the bowl on the carb before you crank it and will likely see a great improvement. A fuel bulb is a cheaper and easier solution. On every machine with the fuel tank under the seat, this makes a huge difference. Heck, I think it improves with high mount tanks under the steering wheel. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,211 #7 Posted 13 hours ago 7 hours ago, wallfish said: Initial carb settings are just that, initial to get it running. ALL engines should be adjusted (if adjustments are available to do so). Each engine has different hours, different wear, different compression etc etc etc. Adjustments to that particular engine's conditions should help It's also a good idea to clean out those little holes in the long high speed needle. Braided copper wire and untwist the braid to a single strand. then spray it out too. Those tiny holes in the needle must be clean - the needle is hollow and is the air bleed for the mix. Don't overlook the hole near the bottom! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,593 #8 Posted 10 hours ago As you can see in the background, we have snow! It’s been creeping up close to 40 everyday. I am icthin’ in hands but my brain is telling my body to wait another month!! Another culprit, the fuel line is on the left (by the hydro filter); the fuel line makes a quick jump in the shifting linkage and then goes down slowly under the motor. Pictures would help! Ill get pictures this week coming! It’s that quick jump that concerns me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites