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2wher

GT-14 Transmission Problem

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2wher

I have a GT-14 that ran low on transmission fluid and now the transmission will not go in reverse. Any help you can give me I would appreciate it, I hate to see the great tractor not being used.

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tookies

I am having the same problem with a GT-14 I recently picked up. Plan on swapping out the hydro first and if that doesnt work the transmission. Might get to it tomorrow. Ill keep you posted.

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tookies

Well I finally got around to looking at this GT-14. It had been sitting for a long time in a barn and looks to be stock. I had to put a new carburetor in it to get it running. Once running the transmission seemed real week. And reluctant to go in reverse.

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I had plans on swapping out the hydro and transmission up until tonight. I revved up the engine and got the rpms up and would you believe it seems to be working ok now? Maybe years of sitting had locked/ gummed up the hydro till it really heated up today.

I need to do some more "field testing" before I go ahead and break it down any further. My question is does anyone know if on a gt-14 Sundstrand there is a "testing" port to attach a pressure gauge to check the pressure on the hydro?

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Kinda like on the D series where you can actually test how many lbs of pressure a hyrdro is putting out. Also is there a publication on how to repair a gt-14 hydro/transmission out there? Anyone familiar with testing the lbs of pressure on a hydro to determine whether or not its shot?

Thanks, Chris, down south.

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can whlvr

I too would like to know the same thing for my c 160 auto

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Sparky

I revved up the engine and got the rpms up and would you believe it seems to be working ok now? Maybe years of sitting had locked/ gummed up the hydro till it really heated up today.

Actually hydros are supposed to be used at full RPM's. Helps keep up pump pressure and also helps keep them cool. Idling around on one is not good for it.

Mike.........

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rustbucket

from your one picture it looks like your drive tow valve selector isnt fully in drive the long point of the T handle on top of the tranny pump sould point back along the frame to be in full drive. it looks like it is pointing off at an angle to the side and that might be enough to allow some of the preassure to bypass as if it was in tow mode.

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tookies

Well, I just got through "field testing" this GT-14 and did take your (Rust Buckets) advice on turning the "drive tow valve selector" and the hydro runs strong. THere is nothing wrong with this unit.

Goes up hills, can be used to brake going down hill, has full power. Which is a relief as I didn't really want to get into swapping hydros and transmissions.........

Now the engine...............according to the original owner ,,,,, has been rebuilt already once. My only complaint is it blows blue smoke as you drive around, I pulled the plug and man it was black. New plug to,,,,.

I am thinking of a new engine but dont feel like dropping $1800 at SEWH for a 1 1/8 shafted Kohler.......any ideas? who else makes a reasonably priced 1 1/8 shafted horizontal engine in the 12-16 hp range that will fit a GT 14?

Also Rustbucket......can you elaborate on the "drive tow valve selector" feature on GT 14 hydros? What do they do?

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rustbucket

the small T shaped handle on the top of the trans is there in case you ever need to tow the tractor due to mechanical breakage all it dose is when turned reverse of the setting i told you to put it in I.E long end forward will bypass the fluid and prevent the system from over preassureizeing while in tow. and when towing never excede i think its 5 mph .

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piecrazy4

you engine might not smoke as much if you remove the carbon build up. But only if the rings are carboned up which makes them stick alowing it to smoke. You can do this without removing the head with an old mechanics trick I learned. Step 1 remove muffler step 2 warm up engine step 3 remove air cleaner step 4

run engine at full throttle under load step 5 mist water in carberatour intake in a

steady stream it will make the govener open the throttle plate more but do not mist water in to quickly or it might stall this is best done at night so you can watch the red chunks of carbon come out the exhaust step 6 do this until no more carbon comes out it may take awhile (half hour or more) but it will clean out the carbon deposits. Step 7 change oil while still warm to rmove any water that got past the rings Step 8 work engine for a while after changing oil then change it again (you dont want water to stay in engine and you want to remove any carbon thats in the oil. Hope this helps !

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WHC-125

Chris, I am glad to hear everything is all set on the Gt-14. I hope everything goes good with the motor too :thumbs2:

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