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Horse Newbie

New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

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GAJoe
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

Just drive the top pin out. The lower pin's clip is easy to remove with snap ring pliers.

Drive it out with a hammer and drift pin? 

Then retrieve it from inside and drive it back in flush with the outside?

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Drive it IN with a hammer and drift pin? 

Then retrieve it from inside and drive it back in flush with the outside?

....  

 

Drive it IN to the engine. 

Then take all the stuff out and drive the pin right back in from the outside.  

 

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GAJoe
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

....  

 

Drive it IN to the engine. 

Then take all the stuff out and drive the pin right back in from the outside.  

 

That's what I meant.

I have a brass rod to get it moving then finish with a drift.

Thanks Eric

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Horse Newbie
21 hours ago, GAJoe said:

 

@GAJoe,

I hate to ask you, but can you email me this file ? I download it to my iPhone and then I can’t find it.

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ebinmaine
Just now, GAJoe said:

That's what I meant.

I have a brass rod to get it moving then finish with a drift.

Thanks Eric

 

Likely you'll find it needs a LOT of "convincing" to move.  

 

You may very well crush the brass rod before the steel in cast iron moves. 

Mine was STUBBORN.   

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ebinmaine
Just now, Horse Newbie said:

@GAJoe,

I hate to ask you, but can you email me this file ? I download it to my iPhone and then I can’t find it.

I have DEFINITELY had that happen.  

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Horse Newbie
9 hours ago, GAJoe said:

I'm glad that I sent you the link for the FB Marketplace add yesterday morning

I’ll be mailing your finders fee… 😆

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GAJoe
7 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

@GAJoe,

I hate to ask you, but can you email me this file ? I download it to my iPhone and then I can’t find it.

Just emailed the owner's and service manuals.

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GAJoe
4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I’ll be mailing your finders fee… 😆

Glad to help out a :wh: buddy.

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Horse Newbie
8 hours ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

I don't think you want that, you better sell it to me! :D

 

Excellent looking tractor there!

 

I said the same thing to @GAJoe when he first got his C-160…

I think he had an axle seal leaking and seemed a little apprehensive about replacing the seal. I quickly told him that he’d better sale to me.

Next thing you know @ebinmaine , and others was telling him how sought after the C-160’s are and he’s rebuilding the transmission… lol.

@GAJoe knew how much I wanted one…

was trying to sweet talk him out of his…

I guess he felt sorry for me and found me this one before @ebinmaine drove down and scarfed it up !

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Horse Newbie

I know it’s hard to say by just the pics I posted and not knowing much about the health of the Kohler, but what do you fellows think would have been a fair price ?…

he was asking $450…

he did crank it and I drove it through all gears, and he engaged the deck…

Edited by Horse Newbie
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GAJoe
2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I said the same thing to @GAJoe when he first got his C-160…

I think he had an axle seal leaking and seemed a little apprehensive about replacing the seal. I quickly told him that he’d better sale to me.

Next thing you know @ebinmaine , and others was telling him how sought after the C-160’s are and he’s rebuilding the transmission… lol.

@GAJoe knew how much I wanted one…

was trying to sweet talk him out of his…

I guess he felt sorry for me and found me this one before @ebinmaine drove down and scarfed it up !

It was cracking the transmission open, taking it almost completely apart, to replace the bearings that intimidated me. But now I know that it's in good and clean condition. So it was worth the trouble.

I did realize that you wanted one and I got mine from your back door, Greenville. As soon as I saw this one and at that price you came to mind and I sent the link to you.

I would unscrew the transmission dip stick adapter and put a bore scope in it to have a look see. The differential bolts had loosened up on mine besides the bearing having eat the one axle shaft up.

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kpinnc
48 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Drive it out with a hammer and drift pin? 

Then retrieve it from inside and drive it back in flush with the outside?

 

Just make sure you don't mushroom the end of the pin. You don't want to crack the cast iron block. 

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GAJoe
11 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

Just make sure you don't mushroom the end of the pin. You don't want to crack the cast iron block. 

That's why I want to get it moving with Kroil and brass before using more Kroil and a steel drift. And use brass to drive it back in flush.

Edited by GAJoe
added details.
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953 nut
56 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Then retrieve it from inside and drive it back in flush with the outside?

:text-yeahthat:       Wouldn't hurt to put a little Blue Loctite on the last half inch of the rod as you get close to being flush.

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ebinmaine
32 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I know it’s hard to say by just the pics I posted and not knowing much about the health of the Kohler, but what do you fellows think would have been a fair price ?…

he was asking $450…

he did crank it and I drove it through all gears, and he engaged the deck…

 

That's VERY VERY fair. 

 

Just add up the parts. 

Engine. $300.  

Transmission w/hubs. $150. 

 

Well sir...

The rest is Free..... 

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GAJoe
7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Folks here's a still picture I got from the video of My Local Paint Department while she was spraying the K341 for me.  

 

Excellent color contrast because she had just a dusting of white over the metal and red colors.  

 

Screenshot_20230130-123845-293.png.cd25a992d53cdb67e82d4cf2c0b0d841.png

 

 

 

I chose to lay the engine down and drive those pins right straight through to the interior of the block.

The reason I chose to push them straight through instead of trying to remove or break the interior gear is that to me it seemed like it was just easier.

 

 

If this engine was on a stand and empty and I was going to have it cleaned I probably would have threaded that section and put a couple of pipe plugs in there or maybe even just used freeze plugs and indented the outside of the block with a cold chisel. Kind of like you would do for a camshaft on the old Chevy small blocks.

Likely that would hold just fine because those things had oil pressure to push against and these don't.

 

 

After removing the balance gears could you tell a difference in the vibration? If I take the oil pan off and they seem to not have any play or signs of wear in them would you remove them?

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Horse Newbie
14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

That's VERY VERY fair. 

 

Just add up the parts. 

Engine. $300.  

Transmission w/hubs. $150. 

 

Well sir...

The rest is Free..... 

Well if I don’t find any major disappointments, I’d say I got a better than  fair deal… keeping my fingers crossed…

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Horse Newbie

BTW… to all you patina lovers, what type of oil, penetrate, do you use for a paint feeding rub down ?

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Pullstart
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

BTW… to all you patina lovers, what type of oil, penetrate, do you use for a paint feeding rub down ?


Whatever you got Buddy!  

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Brockport Bill

looks like a melted wire ??????

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Thor27

Very nice tractor!

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ebinmaine
8 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Well if I don’t find any major disappointments, I’d say I got a better than  fair deal… keeping my fingers crossed…

To really put it right down to brass tacks, there are NO possible major disappointments with these tractors because every single thing can be replaced piece by piece by piece. Seems to me the only major concern that you fellows in the South have is that these single 16 Kohler engines are quite rare.

 

 

As long as that engine itself can be saved, long-term, or a replacement found, there's nothing that can't be done to maintain that thing forever.  

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oliver2-44
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Seems to me the only major concern that you fellows in the South have is that these single 16 Kohler engines are quite rare.

I wouldn’t say the 16,s are rare, but not as common. On the other hand I’ve picked up several 10 and 14 HP K series parts engines. All need bored and crank ground, but parts are parts. Someday I will find a shop to grind cranks!

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oliver2-44

@Horse Newbie If those balance gear pins don’t want to move, it’s not hard to remove them from the inside. You can get the snap ring off the lower one with out much trouble. The upper one is hard to get snap ring off so I just split them with a chisel. Being cast iron they split quite easy with a sharp pop. Then the snap ring can be pried off a lot easier. 

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