New to me 417A

[ebinmaine 62,971]

51 minutes ago, Dreamcatcher said:

Where are the heims purchased?  Yes I'm familiar with Jeep guys building suspension parts with them; my question was more of where are they used on the WH.  Tractor supply?  Admittedly, i've never made anything with them.  Are the rods also sourced from the same place?  Looking at the link for the PTO lever, I also had some additional questions.  Where do I get teflon washers?  The rod and/or the heim have to be modified to work together?

 

10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You can purchase just about anything hardware related at McMaster-Care.  https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends/      https://www.mcmaster.com/washers/

 

 

 

Richard nailed that one. That's where I get mine.

 

Open the McMaster-Carr website with a lot of money and time and you'll thank me later. 😂

 

 

20 minutes ago, Dreamcatcher said:

What is the correct battery group? U1?

 

Yes that's correct.

You'll need to double check your own tractor to make sure of the direction of terminals.

 

When I build my battery cables I make them long enough that I can use either type of battery.

 

 

[Dreamcatcher 100]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Yes that's correct.

You'll need to double check your own tractor to make sure of the direction of terminals.

 

When I build my battery cables I make them long enough that I can use either type of battery.

Thank you.  The cables do seem a little thin and maybe brittle.

[ebinmaine 62,971]

6 minutes ago, Dreamcatcher said:

Thank you.  The cables do seem a little thin and maybe brittle.

 

Given that you took the time to put that to consideration long enough to make the sentence above, you should take them out of the tractor and replace them as soon as possible.

 

[peter lena 8,037]

@Dreamcatcher  those  washers are at your local hardware store in the small drawer pull out section , heim joints  are all over the internet , that battery group is correct  , what you want is higher CCA  cold cranking amps , 300 or more , Walmart prices  are in the low 30 $ range , very good buy .would also get a battery tender while at walmart , and mount that battery lead on to battery posts , for quick plug in ,  on the heim joint mounting start threading / male / female , same size threading , obviousely if you have not done any of this before , its confusing / intimidating . would say to do simple / easy upgrades , gain confidence / insight . you might even put out a shout for another , horse owner near you , for possible help and guidance . just some ideas , pete

[Dreamcatcher 100]

Another question this time about HEADLIGHTS.  Bulbs, can I find them at the auto parts  store?  If so what is the common part number for the bulbs.  Thanks for your help

[ebinmaine 62,971]

You got me curious there so I poked around a little. Here's an old thread that has some information for you. Apparently in 1985 and/or 86 the 417 being the top of the line tractor had halogen bulbs.

 

 

 

 

 

If you search on the internet for this number:

GE H7610

 

You'll very likely come up with a good bright LED bulb available nowadays.  

[Dreamcatcher 100]

ahhhhh.......I was hoping for an LED replacement heehee

[ebinmaine 62,971]

15 minutes ago, Dreamcatcher said:

ahhhhh.......I was hoping for an LED replacement heehee

There's bazillions of em. 

 

Just search 

 

4411 led

 

 

[peter lena 8,037]

@Dreamcatcher   teflon  washers are available at your local h/w store , in the pull out small drawer section . pete

[peter lena 8,037]

@Dreamcatcher  those lights are available on line , might even find a set at wallmart , they also have taillights , pete

[c-series don 7,772]

GE 4411 tractor headlight, I forgot the taillight number. Just pop the rear lens cover off and pull out the bulb to match it up. Any auto parts store should have them. 

Edited February 10, 2023 by c-series don

[kpinnc 10,686]

LEDs are really bright, and light on amp load. And they last forever.

 

Plug and play. Just run a ground jumper from the hood to the frame at the pivot. That will keep them from flickering.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2023 by kpinnc

[peter lena 8,037]

@kpinnc agree with that grounding wire addition is so easy / important , do that on everything electrical , never count on original set up , also use mechanical electrical lugs . a no brainer , pete

[peter lena 8,037]

@Horse Newbie  https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=amazon+bolt+on+electrical+lugs  local h/w store  or big box store , contractor section , use these on a related bolt / screw , add 10- 12 ga wire  , insure that ground , pete

[Dreamcatcher 100]

I am getting ready to change the transmission fluid and filter.  I know about the weight of the oil and the oil filter part number.  What is the oil capacity of the transmission.  Where exactly is the drain plug.  I seem to recall a mention of a bolt that will release the air allowing for faster fill?  I appreciate your help.

[953 nut 51,536]

33 minutes ago, Dreamcatcher said:

I am getting ready to change the transmission fluid and filter.  I know about the weight of the oil and the oil filter part number.  What is the oil capacity of the transmission.  Where exactly is the drain plug.  I seem to recall a mention of a bolt that will release the air allowing for faster fill?  I appreciate your help.

The drain plug is on the bottom near the trailer hitch, you will need a 1/4" allen wrench. You will need four quarts plus a little more to fill your Eaton. To get at the bolt that holds the fender support you would need to remove the seat and fender, not worth the time with an assembled tractor. Just put a piece of wire between the dipstick tube and the funnel to allow air to escape and add oil slowly and you will be OK.

[Dreamcatcher 100]

At the start of winter, I pulled the battery and put it on a tender; all good there.  After putting the battery back in the horse, I was greeted by a no start condition.  Battery is good for sure.  Turn the key to ON, and turn on the lights, all good.  I have power to the solenoid, but no power going to the starter.  Again, everrything worked fine before pulling the battery.  Could it be the key? Solenoid?  I think I have to see if I get 12v at the other little wire going to the solenoid.  I'm guessing it should read 12v when the key is turned to start?  If it has 12v then it must be the solenoid?  If it turns out being the solenoid, can I purchase a new one?  Fuses are good.  The little post on the solenoid read no voltage when my wife turned the key to start. Tried many times, nothing.  I am thinking the key switch is bad? Thanks for your help

Edited May 8, 2023 by Dreamcatcher

[Dreamcatcher 100]

Back to the tranny fluid change.  Do I need to remove any of this to find the drain plug?  I felt around for the allen head drain plug but couldnt find it.

[c-series don 7,772]

As far as no power to the small wire at the solenoid there’s a good chance it’s one of the safety switches or a connection at one. There’s three, one under the seat, one at the PTO lever and one for the brake pedal. Also check and make sure that the PTO isn’t engaged, wouldn’t be the first time someone pulled their hair out trying to find out why their tractor doesn’t start only to flip it back and it starts. Typically this happens after running out of gas! 
The transmission plug is on the bottom of the transmission, might take a little poking around but it’s there. There’s nothing to remove to get to it. Might be packed with dirt as it’s an Allen key type plug as was said before. 

[Dreamcatcher 100]

8 minutes ago, c-series don said:

As far as no power to the small wire at the solenoid there’s a good chance it’s one of the safety switches or a connection at one. There’s three, one under the seat, one at the PTO lever and one for the brake pedal. Also check and make sure that the PTO isn’t engaged, wouldn’t be the first time someone pulled their hair out trying to find out why their tractor doesn’t start only to flip it back and it starts. Typically this happens after running out of gas! 
The transmission plug is on the bottom of the transmission, might take a little poking around but it’s there. There’s nothing to remove to get to it. Might be packed with dirt as it’s an Allen key type plug as was said before. 

 Got the no start issue fitured out.  I'll poke around some more for that allen plug.

[Bill D 1,596]

On 2/27/2023 at 7:43 AM, 953 nut said:

The drain plug is on the bottom near the trailer hitch, you will need a 1/4" allen wrench. You will need four quarts plus a little more to fill your Eaton. To get at the bolt that holds the fender support you would need to remove the seat and fender, not worth the time with an assembled tractor. Just put a piece of wire between the dipstick tube and the funnel to allow air to escape and add oil slowly and you will be OK.

Or leave it the filter loose until the transmission is full and oil leaks out from the filter.  Once full, tighten the filter and you're done.

[Dreamcatcher 100]

I had some more time to poke around this morning.  My tractor has the snow blade installed and teh frame goes all the way to the transmission.  It looks like the only connection points for the blade frame are at the lift which looks to be just a pin and at the transmission with two nuts on each side.  The round bar at the bottom of this picture is blocking the allen drain and it would seem that I must remove the plow frame to get to it.  May I ask someone to confirm this is the

Edited May 16, 2023 by Dreamcatcher

[c-series don 7,772]

Yes, disconnect the lift bar then just flip up those levers that hold the round bar in place that will allow you to drop the plow and push the tractor back enough to get a drain pan under it. A small mirror will also help find the drain plug. 

[Dreamcatcher 100]

I am pleased to report that the transmission fluid/oil change are complete and reattachment of the plow is complete.  With your guidance of course, this was a lot more simple than I thought.  With no experience, the reassembly went without trouble.  It got me motivated to see how the mule was installed.  Wow, so easy.  I installed teh better of my two mules.  My next question is about the belts.  The mule has a narrow pulley(closer to the tractor) and a wider pulley(closer to the tire).  Which one goes to the PTO?  I'll need to remove a couple of pins to actually install it on the PTO and remove the guard to get it on the mule.  Anything special about the belt from the mower deck?  Thank you!

 

UPDATE

I watched a few videos and I think i understand how the single belt is used on the mower and PTO.  One thing that was not too clear in the vidoe I watched was about the lift arm.  is it fastened to the deck with a pin?

Edited May 19, 2023 by Dreamcatcher