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‘79 C-161 - Parts?

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

C-161

Those K341 engines are VERY capable.  

Bull strong. Plenty of torque and run great. 

Why someone would dismantle one that's fairly complete is beyond me.  

 

@c-series don here's ya favorite.  

 

 

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, TractorEd said:

C-161

 

Interesting hood decals you have there. 

 

I still say the C-1x1 models were the best looking Cs! 

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TractorEd
46 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

Interesting hood decals you have there. 

 

I still say the C-1x1 models were the best looking Cs! 

I have little background on this one.  A family member live(s/d) next to a guy named Dave.  He used to sell Wheel Horse parts some years ago.  He supplied my Dad some parts back then and I don’t know too much more about him.  I like to think that he would frequent this site and maybe folks on here knew him.  Not sure.

 

Anyway, Dave passed away (God Bless him) and a short while later this tractor arrived at my place.

 

I can tell there had been work/attempts at keeping her going.  Some sporadic areas have rattle can spray on them.  The engine looked as if it had been fussed with.  The engine and transmission oil looked decent, although I did just change both and the trans filter which had a date of 10/97 on it.  That was a great year for me!


Those hood decals look really good compared to the rest of her.  The engine model/serial #’s on the tag look home engraved.  All the numbers match and everything points to it being a true blue 1979 C-161.  I just think ol’ Dave had been doing some work on her and had or bought a new blank tag because the original was “deteriorating”.  I can’t prove it, that’s just my suspicion.   Or he replaced a rotten blower housing from a different model although this blower housing tin has a big hole in it under where the coil/condenser mount.  They are fastened on one side now with a metal drywall anchor (with the folding wings that spread out out after you push it through the hole).  By the way,  I have placed a want-ad for some tins for the engine as the tin on top has a crack in it too.


There was an aftermarket fuel pump zip tied to it, but wasn’t connected to anything.    There were several new stainless steel bolts and nuts put on it.  I found that the mechanical fuel pump was installed backwards/ upside down.  Maybe that was the unknown issue that didn’t get resolved and why she was set aside?

 

Anyway,  thank you for the kind comments!

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c-series don

As I said in the other thread, please keep us updated on the refurbishment. @ebinmaine knows that I believe the C-161 Automatic was one of the best tractors Wheel Horse ever built. I actually like all the 78-79 C1_1 series and have most of them. Those custom made hood decals tell me that someone really cared about that tractor at some point and now it’s you @TractorEd ! Also love that sense of humor as well, keep it coming!! 

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TractorEd

@kpinnc @c-series don

 

Your comments about that hood decal intrigued me.  I was poking around and found this on redoyourhorse site: spacer.png

 

I think the C-161 stickers were overlaid to cover the GT 14.  On the other side of the hood I have, the C-161 even looks like it is not original.  They were put on backwards (opposite sides of hood) from original GT 14's, too.  I'll have to get a better photo of the other side...

 

Another interesting bit is that tow valve decal for the 1970 GT 14.  This C-161 came with an extra part that has that tow valve decal on it.  That's not the right tow valve for the C-161.  And the GT 14 hoods are very different from the C-161 hoods.

 

Another mystery solved?  Or just another mystery?

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TractorEd

While in the examination area she was looked over and I could tell she had good bones, a real solid girl.  The surface rust added to her appeal in that it showed that she wasn't scared to do some work.

 

I pulled all the parts she was missing off the C-100 to see if I could get her heart to beat.  After fixing a couple of other minor electrical issues, I poured some gas in where her spark plug was and ... there was a cough and a sputter.  I poured in a bit more and she seemed to have some life in there still.  So, I ordered the new parts she needed (so I could put the C-100 back together).

 

While waiting for the parts, I cleaned out the fuel tank and put new fuel hose and a filter on her.  I disassembled the carb and cleaned it up.

 

The parts arrived and I put them on her.  I put a little gas in the tank and started cranking.  Nothing.  Cranked some more and she came to life.  That 16 HP engine on shaker plates was really bucking on that frame!

After letting her run for a few minutes I shut her off.  But what about that transmission?  Does it work?

 

I jacked the back of her up (her tires are still in bad shape) so I could try!

I started her back up and after a minute of still being fascinated that her heart was beating I moved the motion control forward and the wheels spun.  I moved it back to the middle and they stopped.  I pushed it back and the wheels spun backwards.  This was promising right?  I don't know, they sure weren't spinning very fast.  Was this the reason she was set aside?

 

Never having ever seen a hydro like this, with controls such as hers, I wasn't sure what she should act like.  But, the wheels did turn, so that's good, right?

 

I jacked up the front and put her up on jack stands, took her wheels off, tires off the rims, cleaned the rims up and took them to the powder coating shop up the road (same as I did for the C-100).  Should I have spent that money without knowing if that transmission was good or bad?  I bought her all new shoes, too.  That wasn't cheap!  Should I have spent that money so soon without knowing?

 

I don't know.

 

In the meantime, I was busy working on other internal and external blemishes.

 

Just this week I have put on her footrests, side panels, shifter and ammeter plate.  I used the brand new stainless steel hardware I bought.  More money.  I put on new rubber bumpers on her footrests to protect them from the fender/seat pan.

 

At this point, I'm wondering if I'm doing way too much, spending way too much, without knowing more about that transmission.  And I forgot to even test the hydraulic lift before taking the wheels off!  And I'm not starting her up while she's on those jack stands!  She bucks like crazy when that engines running!

 

Last night I put the seat springs on the seat pan and then bolted the seat to the seat springs (Note to self: next time, attach the seat to the springs first, then attach it to the seat pan, what a pita!).

 

I hope to get the fender put on tomorrow and then the seat assembly.  It's been 2 weeks since I dropped off the rims, so they should be ready any day now.

 

I'll have to get the tires mounted and then install the wheels (and new front wheel bearings!).

 

I have this ache in the pit of my gut.  Am I asking too much from her?  Is that tranny still good?  What have I done!

 

C21FDF24-B670-495F-87BE-6963528CD790.jpeg

Edited by TractorEd
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Blasterdad
1 hour ago, TractorEd said:

She bucks like crazy when that engines running!

 

What do you mean by "Bucks like crazy"?

If the rubber isolators in the shaker plate are in good the engine should move very little. 

It's very common for those rubber mounts to be rotten, & from what you're describing they're probably shot.

One of the best mods for the shaker plate engines is to replace them with solid mounts.

Toro wants a fortune for the rubber replacement mounts & the solid mounts make everything rock solid.

I just put a set on my C-161, they make a BIG difference. 

These are what they look like, I think they were around $60.00. (precision machined billet aluminum & way less expensive than the rubber ones).

 

IMG_0152.JPG.713c882e38a0897f50b904bf2f2d4631.JPGIMG_0456.JPG.6d01f8537f9798756ad4f857afc4272f.JPGIMG_0457.JPG.9f01294067e665eef4029fa1fb273338.JPGIMG_0458.JPG.237d238faed5559753f7a98d95198df0.JPGIMG_0459.JPG.2c7eb811f2c2d843578b0b99b38729cb.JPG

 

 

Edited by Blasterdad
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SylvanLakeWH

:text-yeahthat: Shouldn't be bouncing all over the place..,

 

Not quite as nice, but a stack of washers works as well...

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, TractorEd said:

At this point, I'm wondering if I'm doing way too much, spending way too much, without knowing more about that transmission

IMHO you're doing just fine. 

The parts you buy are all things that can be used on another Horse if that one isn't a moving mover.  

No worries.  

 

 

 

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c-series don

I’d say you could also find another transmission if that one is no good. Obviously you want to make sure the tow valve is closed. 

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, c-series don said:

I’d say you could also find another transmission if that one is no good. 

Absolutely. 

 

The most important reason Trina and I have Wheel Horses is that they're infinitely repairable by whatever section needs it.  

 

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TractorEd
6 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

What do you mean by "Bucks like crazy"?

Maybe I’m used to the frame mounted engine on the C-100, but this one really bounces in the saddle.  Back and forth with a vengeance.  Exaggerating a little here, but I don’t think it should move like it does.

 

6 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

One of the best mods for the shaker plate engines is to replace them with solid mounts.

Sounds like these might be on my short list of upgrades!  Thanks for all that info!

 

4 hours ago, c-series don said:

Obviously you want to make sure the tow valve is closed.

Spoiler alert!  I can’t budge that tow valve. I’ve been spraying WD formula # 40 on it and sometimes PB Blaster every time I go out there.  It’s got me a little flustered as I don’t want to round it off.  I’ve already scraped and scratched it up.  I haven’t put heat to it yet, but I did put an air hammer to it a bit while trying to turn it with vice grips.  Nothin!  I’ve put that on the back burner, for now.

 

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

IMHO you're doing just fine.

Thank you for that! 👍🏻

 

I hope to get some more wrench time this weekend.  I want to get that fender/seat assembly installed and maybe the hood too.  Then when I get the rims back with tires on she’ll at least be all back together. For the first time since I’ve had her!

 

Then I can give her a better test to see what she’s got and maybe what she doesn’t got! LOL

 

Edited by TractorEd
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TractorEd

Here I’m testing the new wiring and led bulbs in the tail lights.  Still waiting on that wire sleeve material.  It was supposed to be here today.  Maybe tomorrow!

 

7A804CBF-009B-444D-8C3E-0236AB48D83C.jpeg

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, TractorEd said:

 I can’t budge that tow valve. I’ve been spraying WD formula # 40 on it and sometimes PB Blaster every time I go out there.  It’s got me a little flustered as I don’t want to round it off.  I’ve already scraped and scratched it up.  I haven’t put heat to it yet, but I did put an air hammer to it a bit while trying to turn it with vice grips

 

 

😃

 

My Grammy and Grampa taught me that when I ain't got nothin good to say I shouldn't say anything at all.  

Now.... about those two particular oils you've tried..

 

"........….........….........….........….........….........….........….........….........….........…...........….........….........….........….."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:hide:

 

 

WD-40 ORIGINAL formula is a Water Displacer. Can be a very light duty lubricator. 

It is not a penetrant. 

 

PB ... Well I know we all have our favorites. 

IMHO that one is only useful for removing money from one's wallet.  Not bolts from anything.  

 

There are good penetrating oils on the market.

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ebinmaine

Can you show a close-up of the tow valve? 

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ohiofarmer

 

 Those holes and cracks in the tins are stuff I have seen before on the shaker plate tractors..Wheel Horse places the heavy ignition coils on nut sert type fasteners and the worn shaker plate mounts do the rest. I fixed mine by adding sheet metal to the back that was robbed from another junk engine from an old push mower engine cowling and bent and beat into submission . Ugly is what describes the thing from the underside with all the plug welds and weld boogers, but with some JB weld goobered in between the two pieces of metal around the cracked/broken areas, a strong repair that looks good is possible.  My secret to it looking good is a follow up application on the good side of the metal with a sandwich bag applied to the wet JB weld that I smooth with my fingers, It holds the gooey JB in place till hard and peels right off. Actually JB  makes OK body filler and holds paint fine

  Then I relocate the heavy coil elsewhere on the tractor so as to not crack the engine tins again.

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TractorEd
8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

There are good penetrating oils on the market.

Can you recommend one or two?  Thanks for trying to save me money, I want to keep as much of it as I can! And use it on things that are worth it.

 

5 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

Those holes and cracks in the tins are stuff I have seen before on the shaker plate tractors..Wheel Horse places the heavy ignition coils on nut sert type fasteners and the worn shaker plate mounts do the rest.

Sounds like a valid hypothesis to me.  I’ll see what I can come up with.  My welder isn’t good on this sheet metal.  I need to upgrade or stop complaining about it.

 

thanks again for all of the valuable info everyone.

 

@ebinmaine

I’m going out there shortly and will take a pic of the state of that tow valve.

Edited by TractorEd
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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

need to upgrade or stop complaining about it.

:ROTF:

 

 

4 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

Can you recommend one or two?

 

@Achto is having fun with Seafoam Deep Creep lately.  

 

@AHS is using a very particular WD-40 Company product. 

NOT the original formula but a penetrant.  

 

I've used Kroil. Expensive but good. 

 

My preference the last couple years has been good ole fashioned

Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. 

 

Inexpensive.  Effective.  Readily available.  

 

Patience is the key!!

 

 

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TractorEd
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@Achto is having fun with Seafoam Deep Creep lately.  

 

@AHS is using a very particular WD-40 Company product. 

NOT the original formula but a penetrant.  

 

I've used Kroil. Expensive but good. 

 

My preference the last couple years has been good ole fashioned

Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. 

 

Inexpensive.  Effective.  Readily available.  

 

Patience is the key!!

I think a have a couple of these out in the barn already.  I’ll look around and continue juicing that tow valve up.  I have ran out of patience a time or two before, but I’m trying!

 

Thank you!

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

 I have ran out of patience a time or two before, but I’m trying!

 

 I have ran out of patience a time or.... 7 million....

 

:ROTF:

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pacer

You said that on initial start-up that the fwd/rev lever made the wheels turn .... I believe that would mean that the tow valve is in 'run' mode and you could/can go ahead and run it and worry about loosening the valve later. By changing the oil/filter that eliminates the possibility of water being in it, so I'm thinking its probably OK.

 

Those tow valves can be a real booger!!!

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TractorEd

@ebinmaine

Here’s a couple pics of that tow valve.

 

5DF669C0-786F-4A5F-A220-8841C714B7BA.jpeg

C548A2BC-C54E-460D-B7F9-F924AA7522AE.jpeg
I got a little angry at her, LOL.

Edited by TractorEd
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TractorEd
21 hours ago, TractorEd said:

 

spacer.png

 

I think the C-161 stickers were overlaid to cover the GT 14.  On the other side of the hood I have, the C-161 even looks like it is not original.  They were put on backwards (opposite sides of hood) from original GT 14's, too.  I'll have to get a better photo of the other side...

@kpinnc @c-series don

 

 

D67D81FE-3D69-4E00-A790-8C99BCDC0B7F.jpeg

44847990-5115-40C5-9DF4-79892A6DA5AD.jpegI can see the GT 14 peeking out in a couple spots.

Edited by TractorEd
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