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ebinmaine

1975 C160 Automatic Restoration

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ebinmaine
10 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

I though you said it was going to be painted off white. It's OK, you didn't say how far off. 

It's tough to get a good vision of the actual tint. 

 

It's the same Rust-Oleum 2x Navajo White we've been using on all our projects.  

 

It's a perfect match to the inside of original mid 60s wheels that haven't seen sunlight.  

 

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ebinmaine
On 1/17/2023 at 4:16 PM, Handy Don said:

I agree heartily with two bolts on each side pinning angle iron to flange. The blue dot and directly above it would be my choices to avoid any close tolerances.

 

IMHO, that reinforced and braced F-plate is adequate. The cracking of the F-plate doesn’t come only from frontal forces--it is from the frame being torqued and flexing the F-plate. Torque is from side to side relative to the transaxle--i.e. from angled snow/dozer plowing or turns in deep soft soil when dirt plowing--or vertically from extremely heavy frame-mounted rear weight or from transporting a lifted heavy implement over rough ground, or banging a snow plow into an unyielding snowbank.

So, if extra strength is sought, adding angle braces along the sides resist only the vertical torque. To address lateral torque, you’d need to add diagonal bracing (e.g. from lower left of F-plate to right side of frame) and link the two braces where they cross each other in an X.

 

 

Here's what I came up with for now.

IMG_20230129_143536493_HDR.jpg.473005f36cac7d628ca1499dd5849eba.jpg

 

IMG_20230129_143547318.jpg.7bbc903441abdad53ab4cc36f2f30ebd.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

May put the braces on later....

 

 

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ebinmaine

Several years ago I got a plow frame side stabilizer from @WVHillbilly520H Jeff. 

It got set aside for a few ... I figured it has a place on this tractor when I decided last fall  to put the huge 60" snow plow on.  

 

IMG_20230129_144936693.jpg.779c5209052776c85a4ab781e5f13cc7.jpg

 

There will be a tab mounted to the plow frame with a large hole to accept the downward piece.  

 

 

We got the engine block finished up for paint. Put it on the frame. I got the cylinder head bolted on and torqued correctly.  

Same for the flywheel.  

 

IMG_20230129_144949778_HDR.jpg.c9da7cb7b3ae90c5c1687c0843f02dc3.jpg

 

 

We also installed the 2 hoses from valve to lift cylinder. The 2 headed towards the transmission pump are in the valve.  

IMG_20230129_145035161_HDR.jpg.73b7de23f703f6b6fab89cd778ee22d0.jpg

 

 

 

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ebinmaine

Engine tins are on.  

IMG_20230129_172328553_BURST001.jpg.2364c7e63c199945e5817fccf5d3107c.jpg

 

 

And another excellent Wheelhorse mobile!

 

IMG_20230129_172748075.jpg.995117fddc30ce2c91376d436888f455.jpg

 

 

 

 

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oliver2-44
6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

IMG_20230129_144949778_HDR.jpg.c9da7cb7b3ae90c5c1687c0843f02dc3.jpg

@ebinmaine I noticed the white square on your flywheel, is that your timing mark location. If so you might want to put a fine black line in that larger white square to help you tweak your timing. 

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

@ebinmaine I noticed the white square on your flywheel, is that your timing mark location. If so you might want to put a fine black line in that larger white square to help you tweak your timing. 

 

Excellent idea but I don't even own a timing light. :lol:

 

On this flywheel there were no actual Letter marks as I've seen on others.  

The only mark of any kind is a diamond pattern of tiny punched dots where that white square is.  

 

I set the points .018 or so which is the gap several of our other engines run including my other K341. 

 

We'll tune by ear from there.  

 

 

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