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GAJoe

Tearing into the C-160 Transmission.

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ebinmaine
22 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

We thought that we would replace the thrust washers while we had it apart. The two thrust washers (part #'s 7418 and 9547) are on back order for 60 to 90 days from RCPW.com. 

Anyone know of another source? Or have some that I could replace when these arrive?

I've never replaced them. 

Unless there's obvious visible damage such as scoring I'd put em right back in and be happy with it.  

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953 nut
25 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

two thrust washers

Take a look at the Hillman cabinets at Ace Hardware, Lowes or Home Depot, They are likely to have what you need.

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GAJoe
46 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I've never replaced them. 

Unless there's obvious visible damage such as scoring I'd put em right back in and be happy with it.  

Thanks for the quick replies.

These had some rust on them. we got it off but the surface looked discolored and not perfectly smooth so we decide to if we could get them. The local Toro dealer said that 7418 was available, 9547 backordered until Feb. I found and ordered the 9547 off eBay.

Edited by GAJoe
added details.
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pfrederi
2 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Thanks for the quick replies.

These had some rust on them. we got it off but the surface looked discolored so we decide to if we could get them. The local Toro dealer said that 7418 was available, 9547 backordered until Feb. I found and ordered the 9547 off eBay.

Go tto McMaster look at thrust washers  They show the ID OD and thickness

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GAJoe

How do I need to clean it for painting after all the penetrating oil used? And what paint and color do I need to use after I get it back together?

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pfrederi

thrust.JPG

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

How do I need to clean it for painting after all the penetrating oil used? And what paint and color do I need to use after I get it back together?

 

Cleaning a transmission or an engine block can be a little tricky because they're made out of cast iron which is porous.

Ideally they would be done with a hot water pressure washer or steam cleaner or something along that line.

 

A lot of the time Trina and I use a combination of degreasers and brake clean and repeated motions.

 

Asking which paint is sort of like asking what's your favorite motor oil, truck, whatever. We all have a lot of different brands we use.

 

Our particular shop tends to stay with Rust-Oleum 2x.

We've tried both with and without primer and don't necessarily see a difference in adhesion.

 

There isn't a color dead on match to an old Wheel Horse in Rust-Oleum 2X.

Rust-Oleum makes a Regal Red in a different type that a lot of folks use.

 

The only real disadvantage we can find is that it takes about 6 to 8 weeks to truly cure. It will never be as hard as an automotive paint so if that's what you're looking for, don't use spray cans.

 

@Achto Dan, or others could help you out there.

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Achto
1 hour ago, GAJoe said:

How do I need to clean it for painting after all the penetrating oil used? And what paint and color do I need to use after I get it back together?

 

What I do with engines & trannys is soak them down with brake cleaner, then blow them dry with a blow gun. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times. At this point you should be safe to paint, I choose to wipe them down one more time with a preps-all solvent.

 

Before paint, I recommend one coat of self etching primer before painting. Self etching bites into the metal and helps your paint adhere better. Apply one coat, as soon as it looks dull apply your paint.

 

Paint color?? Rust oleum Regal Red or International Harvester Red seem to be the most popular choices. IH red is made by many different paint manufacturer's so this color opens up your brand choices for paint.

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GAJoe

Got back to Shawn's this morning to get things cleaned up to go back together. The ball bearings didn't look too bad last weekend but I gave the 1533"s a spin and they felt rough; hanging up in spots :eek:. I got the bright lights on the subject  and discovered that there was rust on part of the spacers between the balls; pretty bad :(. They were probably half as thick as the rest.  So I'm having to get some new ones $$. And what makes it worse is that the USPS hasn't got my last order with the needle bearings to me yet. It shipped this past Monday and the predicted date of delivery was last Thursday. It got to my post office today to be delivered on Monday. Maybe this 1533 order will make it here sooner. I'd like to get it back together this next weekend.

 

Also I tried a new product to me, Evapo-Rust, on some of the other rust that we found in the tranny. I was pleased with the results. It gets rid of rust and is biodegradable.

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, GAJoe said:

1533"s

Did you find a source for those ok? 

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GAJoe
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Did you find a source for those ok? 

Wheelhorsepartsandmore.com 2 for $80 plus shipping. I read the thread where some guys were trying to find alternate sources. Back in the day Toro was charging over $170 for a set. That was a lot back then.

 

Edited by GAJoe
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GAJoe

Well bummer! My axle shaft order package from A to Z Tractor arrived this evening but the box was empty.:eek:

Well not completely empty there was a A to Z Tractor ink pen and paper in it. But it looks like the handlers tossed it into one of those buggys and it landed hard enough that the ($40 + $9 shipping) shaft punched out of the box. See the hole in the corner. I'm surprised that that hasn't happened before resulting in different packaging practices.

I wonder if A to Z will re-send it or if I will have to file a claim with the USPS?

 

20221204_182132.jpg

EmptyUSPSbox.jpg

Edited by GAJoe
correct grammar
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953 nut
22 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

I wonder if A to Z will re-send it or if I will have to file a claim with the USPS?

I think Lincoln will have to file a claim since the insurance for the shipment is to him. He is a good guy and will work it out for you.

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GAJoe

Luckily I took a gamble on a shaft on eBay that was $34.50 w/free shipping to have a spare for that price. So I won't be delayed in getting my differential back together.

And looks to be in good shape. It uses a larger key that I'll have to buy.

 

20221204_184157.jpg.0b804bfe0c14664a2a54c149b047028d.jpg20221204_184207.jpg.2233bc1bce2f49fcd9528abc73388eef.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by GAJoe
correct grammar
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GAJoe
1 hour ago, GAJoe said:

Well bummer! My axle shaft order package from A to Z Tractor arrived this evening but the box was empty.:eek:

Well not completely empty there was a A to Z Tractor ink pen and paper in it. But it looks like the handlers tossed it into one of those buggys and it landed hard enough that the ($40 + $9 shipping) shaft punched out of the box. See the hole in the corner. I'm surprised that that hasn't happened before resulting in different packaging practices.

I wonder if A to Z will re-send it or if I will have to file a claim with the USPS?

 

20221204_182132.jpg

EmptyUSPSbox.jpg

I hate that the Wheel Horse world lost one of the axle shafts

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GAJoe

The shaft that I got has a longer woodruff key slot. I was told that it came from a C-85 8-Speed Transmission. What key should it take? I'll try to get some good measurements and report back. 

20221204_184207.jpg

Edited by GAJoe
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stevasaurus

Take the axle with you to TSC or ACE and find one that fits.  Remember, they are soft metal and you can file them to get that perfect fit.  :occasion-xmas:

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Jeff-C175
12 hours ago, GAJoe said:

try to get some good measurements

 

McMaster Carr is a good source for finding what's available, even if you don't buy from them.  Their catalog is good reference material.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/keys/key-type~woodruff/

 

 

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Jeff-C175
22 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

they are soft metal

 

I always thought they were pretty hard metal Steve?

Still easy enough to file though...

 

 

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Handy Don
55 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I always thought they were pretty hard metal Steve?

Still easy enough to file though...

 

 

Hardened at the bearing races via induction? Elsewhere, pretty soft?

Edited by Handy Don
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stevasaurus

They are not hardened, and they file easily.  I like to think they are the weak link on purpose...so they do not ruin the insides of a transmission.  :confusion-confused:

Don, we are talking Woodruff keys.  :thumbs:

Edited by stevasaurus
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GAJoe
On 12/5/2022 at 11:09 PM, GAJoe said:

The shaft that I got has a longer woodruff key slot. I was told that it came from a C-85 8-Speed Transmission. What key should it take? I'll try to get some good measurements and report back. 

20221204_184207.jpg

a #21 woodruff Key

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