Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'rm-367'.
Found 2 results
Getting ready to start rebuilding (hopefully upgrading) my RM-366 mower deck for my 856 Tractor (separate thread as "My 856 Project" under the restorations category). Thought I would post this here looking for some potential ideas from you guys that may have rebuilt, restored, upgraded, modified this particular deck or something very similar. Near as I can tell, the RM-366 deck and the RM-367 are almost identical other than year of mfg. and there may be some others that are very similar. My question is, has anyone with a similar deck ever made any upgrades/modifications to one of these decks to improve on the problematic "wear areas" at the bearing points of the drag link, bracket hanger, pivot tube, and quick hitch assembly as shown in the photos below? Just doesn't seem like a very good original design to suspend the entire weight of this deck along with being subjected to other external forces on the thin edges of only about 1/8" on the drag link and hanger bearing directly on the pivot tube. Would like to improve on this if its possible and thought maybe some of you veterans may have some ideas or something that you may have tried that works (or didn't work for that matter) to mitigate this wear. I realize these decks are designed to be "floating" decks, but don't really like it when the deck starts floating laterally when wear takes over. Now for the photos: These are the areas that I would like to address... This is a close-up of the original design in the pivot tube area (minus the snap rings and washer). If any of you have followed my thread on the tractor itself, i have been adding an abundance of bronze bearings in wear and pivot points on the tractor and would like to modify this in some way similar. The problem is with what I call the "staggered mount" between the drag link and the hanger whereas the drag link is not mounted between the side plates of the hanger but rather alternate inside to outside (see photo). This makes it a little difficult to directly mount a flange bearing in one of the surfaces, especially with the snap rings on the pivot tube. This is the original pivot tube showing the wear at these hanger locations as well as the snap ring grooves... Years ago I made a modification to this same area by turning a "modified" pivot tube and utilizing a combination of bronze bearings whereas the pivot tube was bolted stationary to the side of the hanger bracket and all rotation was limited to the bearing points of the drag link rather than the hanger. This actually worked "relatively" well but still had some issues after years of service. I may pursue something similar this time around, and hopefully someone a lot smarter than me might have a better solution. As for the wear on the quick hitch assembly shaft where it mounts to the tractor brackets, I am probably just going to fabricate a new one and maybe turn it to accept a couple of bronze bearings at least in the areas marked "severe" wear points. I hope that I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here, just attempting to make something that has been a problem spot in the past a little bit better. Any ideas or suggestions that you may have tried (or thought about trying) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
In the process of replacing the spindle bearings on my RM-367 mower deck, I got to thinking about the gears that drive 'em. As you can see in the image, the teeth are well worn, but only where they mesh with the cross-shafts teeth. I'm wondering if there's any point in turning the gears over to engage the un-worn teeth. But the cross-shaft gears have also worn in similar to the teeth on the spindle gears. I'd appreciate anyone's opinion on the advisability of turning the gears over. I'm neither a collector nor a restorer, but am the original owner of my 1967 Model 857 tractor. It just might be the best made piece of equipment that I've ever owned. Solidly built. The Kohler engine has been ultra-reliable. I've never even had the head off it. Points, plug, carb cleaned, air filter replacement - that's about all I've ever done, yet it starts at one turn of the ignition switch. In addition to mowing, I've also got a snow blower and mid-mounted grader blade, and a home-made trailer hitch for dragging my wood splitter around. Thanks all. (BTW it looks like Toro wants $116/each for these gears. Not in my budget.)