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Found 101 results
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Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. model - 417-8 engine - Kohler KT17 Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.) - new ignition switch - new battery - new starter - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs - new condenser - new points - new starter solenoid - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. notes: idiot lights removed. All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection .. coil tested w/ ohms as well all switches bypassed except: -oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) -seat switch ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. Electric is as follows: - Starter switch wired to solenoid - - solenoid to starter - - solenoid to batt - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat. Help - what the heck am I missing ?
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Ok, So I am seeing that most of you are leaning towards the ONAN engines being crap. That said, I have 2 416's # 1 is a -8 and # 2 is a -H. Both have the -216 in them. i was thinking of rebuilding the engine from the 416-H, but I am also considering changing the engine out with a different type. What are the recomendations? I am seeing Koler, what else will fit? Thanks Dave.
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I just picked up an '86 417-A with Series II Kohler KT17. As I was testing it out in the seller's driveway I cranked up the throttle to see what it sounded like. The guy freaked out and said not to give it throttle unless the engine was under load because the governor on those KT17s doesn't work unless the engine is under load and it could blow up. Can anyone comment on this? - Ryan
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I'm looking for help in troubleshooting a starting problem with my 520. I used it yesterday to mow my yard for about 1.5 hours and when finished I let it cool down before shutting it off. It sat for about 2 hours and I put fuel in it and drove it on the ramps to clean the deck and after rolling it off the ramps I hit the starter and the engine made a noise and tried starting. I tried several times after that and no pop at all so I did a compression test and the front cylinder was fine and the rear was poor so I immediately thought of the valve seat being loose wedging the valve open. This morning I took the head off and much to my delight I did not see the seat as I thought but the head bolts were not very tight so I understand the poor compression (see pictures). The piston goes back and forth so that seems fine so I'm not sure where to focus my attention next. I am new to the 520 world and I tried searching the forums to find a thread that might walk me through this to no avail. I'm going to hold off putting the head back on just in case someone says to check something else related. This machine is new to me and has been smooth running, no smoke, good power, and always started easily with very little choke so I'm very surprised at this. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi, been a while since I been on the forum, but I needed to log on to get some help with my "new" b-115 I picked up for $25! I saw this beauty sitting on the side of the road and I just needed to have it. only issue is it doesn't have a engine and the steering was all discombobulated. Last night I got that all welded up and now I am looking for help, I need to get the Briggs motor that came on it now, I have had 0 luck with finding the right motor for it but I have found almost every part I would need to build one from scratch. They are all over ebay and craigslist (the parts) and would be expensive but nice. Any help would be greatly appreciated! (also am looking for a snow blower and a bagger for it, dont know if the bagger for it exists but would be nice to have.
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Picked up this 310 the other day and was doing some PM's. Checked under the motor tins and wow, this one was pretty bad!
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I'm thinking about buying a Leak down tester. Looking online they range from $29 to $200+. Harbor freight sells a Pittsburg brand one for $39. And several other companies sell that same looking one (Different names) for $29 to$49: There is an OTC brand one for $&9 and $199. So what do y'all use? Does anyone have the Harbor Freight one? I'm a little skeptical l, but like the price for the little bit I will use it. Of course if it's not accurate it a worthless .
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I am looking for an engine that will easily swap into my C100 that is not the K241AS. Any suggestions?
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Bought this 310-8 for $100 came with a plow but no engine. Just want to put in the cheap HF $99 Predator 6.5hp. Searched on here and found that people have done this but I cant really find any information on what they needed to do to get it to work. Looks like about a 2" engine plate since the height of the PTOs are different and the mounting bolt locations are different. Besides that, any more tips or pointers? Just making this into a cheap plow tractor, I saw the linkage below the 310-8 is not like below my 312-8. It does not have a chain lift and just a straight bar. I mounted the blade to my 312-8 and it worked fine. Guessing the bar is so I can push down on the blade if need be? Is this something included in the plow package I missed before? Any insight there?
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I thought I would do a quick, but thorough, right up on my recent engine swap on my 520-H. The Onan has served me well for the past three year with the exception of the manifold leaking and having to run it at half choke to smooth out the idle. Currently this machine is used for my snowblower in the winter and loader in the summer. Knowing that the Onan had life left, but not wanting to risk catastrophic failure on a necessary piece of equipment I decided to look for a replacement. With shear luck I found a brand new 2001 Kohler 25hp on Craigslist for $450 and wasted no time getting it. The Onan will have a new home on a second 520 I was given in desperate need of attention, making it a good candidate for a restomod tower/ hood swap donated from a black hood model. The swap isn't to terrible but more time consuming than I had originally thought. The worst of which was a wiring gremlin that I created running a wire to an accessory power source instead of a full time one. The engine is wider than an Onan making placement a challenge. An inch froward of where the engine is currently bolted you can see two holes. The one to the left side of the tractor is a factory whole that I used for the first round placement of the motor. This left the engine to far forward for the clutch engagement to work properly, but was a good medium for the belt alignment. After moving the wholes back a little over an inch everything worked out great, with exception of the belt guard which I have spaced out with washers for the time being. Next came the wiring. With the diagrams I was able to find I discovered that the Kohler came with a similar setup to the Onan. This includes the oil pressure switch, starter solenoid, a place for the tach. wire. The Kohler has a fuel shut off solenoid that needs constant 12v while the engine is running and is tied into the starter solenoid. On the back of the engine plug there is a post with a red and a blue wire, the red one I connected to the yellow ( coil 12v ) wire and the blue one to the light blue ( starter solenoid ) wire. The fuel shut off is currently my only engine kill as the 520 key switch does not have a post that provides grounding in the off position. Here is the Basic layout: Tractor Kohler CH25S Oil Pressure - Dark Blue Oil Pressure - Green Starter Solenoid - Light Blue Starter Solenoid - Blue Tachometer - Gray Rectifier - AC Post Coil Positive - Yellow Carburator Solenoid - Red - formally connectedt to blue Battery + - Red Battery + - Heavy Red Ground - Black Ground - Black Cylinder Temperature - White Temperature Sensor Kill Switch - White The cylinder temperature probe needs a whole with 1/4 - 20 threads but the Kohler uses fine thread 1/4 so I had to tap one of the throttle bracket bolt wholes for it. this was the best location for a good reading while keeping it away from the exhaust port. The throttle cables worked good, just had to shorten the choke a bit. The oil drain from the Onan was the perfect fit for the Kohler also. As for the pto I needed to bend the top bracket to allow the muffler to line up properly. Last to be modded was the hood. Luckily the hood just clears the filter cover, but I had to notch for the muffler. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
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Wheel horse c-125 with kohler 301 engine wont fire but turns over. I have made sure there is fuel getting to the engine and there is a strong enough spark to start it. Also we have good enough compression. So what is the problem?
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Bizarre fuel issue with a D-250... Never witnessed this before.
BigMan-TinyTractor posted a topic in Engines
,Hi all... I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around. I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it. So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump. So here's where it gets weird. After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn. After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again... Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off. So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts? The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet. So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue? I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting. Thanks a bunch! Jacob -
523Dxi Injection pump removal/replacement
WVHillbilly520H posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
I'm finally getting around to pulling the diesel engine out of the Dxi to replace the injection pump, no small task but doable, hopefully all goes well and I be part of the oil burning xi crowd , here's as far as I've gotten in the last few weeks, as well as having the injectors rebuilt I have a new replacement pump ready to go in as well as most of the gaskets I had gotten late last summer from Matt @bowextreme , the radiator, fan shroud ,and engine mounts were the hardest part of the disassemble process so far, Jeff. -
I have a C-161 twin auto with a 16hp Briggs. It's losses power when put under a load and sounds like it miss fires and shoots a flame out the exhaust at high idle. I flashed the gas tank cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned the carb & rebuilt the fuel pump still the same problem. Any suggestions on where to look next ? Thanks for any help I can get.
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The reasons why I decided to fix this Carb up are many really, deciding to put the progress report on here is that it may help others to understand why their Tired worn Carb is misbehaving or may require bits that aren't available anymore....so there may be hope yet if I can help and make a few bits. I see Used Carbs for sale and sell for over £50.00 (in UK) !. The buyer probably gets a Carb that is just as bad or worn as their old one and requires a full clean and gaskets anyway, so they still end up paying £80 incl postage etc for it. I know not everyone is able to, or has the equipment etc. to make obsolete parts, or indeed wonder if it is really worth it?....... Maybe just go out and buy a new/used Carb that will fit and move on..... For me, I have to take it apart and see if I can repair it, just because I am able to. I don't think a picture of a dirty, damaged and worn out Carb that is used mainly on 10 & 12hp Kohlers is necessary on here is it?, there's loads out there to see . I also don't need to go into the workings of it, as all that is available elsewhere e.g. Mr Miller's Tractorpulling site, although there are a few minor points I can't agree with. So, here we go, and we start with a need to identify it's condition after a good clean, an inspection and then take some fairly critical measurements of some dimensions. This Carb was left outside for several years and had filled with water. It was attached to my '81'Engine that was fully rebuilt for my '74' C-120 Project. Lots of wear and remaining evidence of rust damage to the Throttle Shaft/Plate and the Bore itself- Not easy to see, but there are 'Tide Marks' in the bore where the water level line is eroded into the Bore wall- Plan is not to re-bore this yet if it's not necessary. So I need to make a new Throttle Plate and Shaft. With the Pivot/Stop bracket removed from the old Shaft by careful filing, the bracket damage had to be straightened out. The condition of the Ball Pivot is ok (0.003" under 1/4" dia ). The old worn Banana Shaped Shaft is junk Took the measurements to reproduce the angle of the Throttle plate when in the fully closed position. A bit of a challenge and not totally accurate, but you have to start somewhere- Armed with these Dims, I produced a mandrel that will fit in the Lathe Chuck and hold a steel plate at the correct angle while it was machined down to the Bore diameter. The mandrel is a 4.1/2 inch stub of 3/4" dia Silver Steel (Drill Rod) with a Brass Head pressed/bonded on. It was then turned down to exactly 1.0000" so I can use that dia as a reference point . It was then bolted down on a Vertical Slide to machine the angled face. here it is with the face part machined- The finished Mandrel- ....and the new plate machined and just needs removing and de burring- The first attempt showed the plate was just 0.003" under Bore size- Not bad considering I had to measure the bore using an old pair of Inside Callipers and then use a Vernier to measure the Calliper setting. The bore is also tapered !!. So I may run it in the Lathe and shave off a few thou to parallel and turn up another Plate to fit. Throttle Shaft was made up from 1/4" Silver Steel (Drill Rod) as it is ground exactly to 0.2500" dia. A very nice fit in the lower Carb Shaft Bush. The original Shaft is mild steel and 0.002" under size on unworn areas, so a bit of slack there to start with when new. Used the new to me Mill/Drill for this and I like to keep a pictorial record of work holding 'Set Ups'- And the partly finished shaft against the old one. note the lower Bushing end is longer, this is because I machined less length out of the shaft for the Plate. The original had more removed than needed and reduced the bearing face area (could be a standard Shaft for several size Carbs). The 'first attempt' Plate and the old one, together with a super clean 'Fuel Tight' Float- This is as far as I have got by tonight. Still have a few adjustments to make on the 'Masheeeens' and permanently fit the LED Lights to them. Next session will be sorting out Bushings, fixing Shaft length, finishing and Plate install....maybe next week. Regards.
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Acquired locally a 417A with a bunch (3000+) hrs on the meter, but a jump got it running and for $200 I drove it home. Came with a blade too. Thought the price was right considering it had a 48" deck mounted that looks to be in much better shape than the rest of the tractor. As I said I did drive it the few blocks home with an occasional pop or crack from the motor that I attributed to possibly a sticking valve or even just some old gas. Parked it and tossed a tarp half over it until I could get a chance to work on it, which turned out to be longer than expected. Anyway, to the problem, I went out a couple of days ago and put a charger on it for a while and tried to start it and it turned over about a quarter turn and locked up, so I pulled the spark plugs and tried the starter again and the worst looking junk I had ever seen in a motor came squirting out of the plug holes. Whats up with that? How would a motor fill up with GUNK, even setting outside? Shot a bunch of PB Blaster in both plug holes to try to loosen up any rust or junk in the cylinders but would like to figure out where it got into the cylinders, in the first place, before I go any further with trying to save it. Motor appears to have all the tin, air cleaner and muffler on it.
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My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off. I tested the clutch switch. good Replaced the key switch. Seat switch is bypassed. I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. Help Please. Matt
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First post. Been lurking for a year. So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below. (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner. I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell. A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back. OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.) So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler. In giving your advice recognize a few things: 1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability. 2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of. Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared. 3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though. 4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though.... Hit me with your best shot...
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Greetings, I acquired and 1967 wheel horse 657 ... the engine on the thing is a Tecumseh with a Craftsman (very odd and not original I guess lol) mdoel number 143-546122 ... Having a really hard time figuring out the Tecumseh model number, cuz the craftsman site gives me the part list and what not, but most of which don't exist anymore, so wanted to try to find the Tecumseh parts instead of going the way of craftsman... best I can figure out so far is its an H60 engine... THX
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Hi Have just got a 316-8 mowed the lawn and then ran out of petrol just as it was getting dusk . Now it won't start. What I have noticed that I did not before is that when you turn the ignition on the oil light comes on. I have looked up the manual which says that on a 312 and 310 if the oil is low the engine won't start. Is that the same with the 316-the manual shows that it has an oil light but isn't specific about what its for( pressure or low oil) My question is ,on a 316 is the oil light on when you turn the ignition on ,then goes off as the engine fires up and it gets oil pressure , or if the light is on when the ignition is turned on ,( and the engine is short of oil) the engine will turn over but not start ( as mine does). The oil level is just above the minimum on mine at present. Any help much appreciated. Nick
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I have a Kohler K181 8HP engine that when it runs, which aint to often, it spits sparks and flame out of the muffler side, up by the head. I assume that it is in need of a head gasket. Where can I get one? What size? All that good stuff! Thanks in advance
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I recently bought a Kohler k160 motor that I was told had a broken rod which was ok as all I wanted was the ignition system off it for another motor upon closer inspection I found that the motor was siezed and that the rope starter pulley was loose on the crankshaft and shucking back and forth I deceided to remove the tinware and cylinder head and give the piston a good soaking with penetrating oil a couple of hours later some light raps with a hammer handle and the piston was moving up & down and no broken rod next I cleaned the points and hooked the spark plug back up to check for spark Nothing at all so off with the flywheel and find this is the problem Got out the good old Kohler engine parts book and find that I need a #230075 coil which is NLA soooo on to E-Bay found a used one for $200.00 The next few hours I spent searching online and this is what I found The ignition system is a Bendix Scintilla magneto ignition system this system was used on small one and two cylinder motors and that some old mercury outboard motors used them also I found several web sites that sold vintage outborad motor parts and which had new reproduction bendex scintilla coils for around $60.00 bucks so I ordered one mounted on the motor the only thing i needed to do was lenghen the condenser wire the coil seems to be a exact replacement for the kohler part number after this I lapped the head and replaced the head gasket also new condenser ,points and spark plug also a complete carb rebuild without using any NC chem dip and a differant gas tank and line new muffler too sorry for the back ground noise in this video as my cnc machine was running behind the camera runs pretty good for sixty plus years old Brian
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Hello, I'm new to this site, so hopefully I'm posting this in the right spot. My father past away late last year and left with us, among other things, his favorite Wheel Horse tractor. It stopped working about a decade ago and has been sitting in the shed ever since, but it was always his dream to get it running again. I don't really know much about tractors, but I have to say that it would be really neat to get it working again. As you can see from the photos, it would need a lot of work. My dad wanted to have it as a functioning tractor, so before he passed away he bought a newer engine to mount in it in order to get it working with the hopes of rebuilding the old engine eventually. There's a guy who works on old tractors that we know who said he could install the newer motor (not the one in the picture) and get it functioning with the deck for about $400. He said he could also rebuild the old engine eventually, but finding parts, etc., would take a bit of time. I looked all over the tractor itself, but couldn't find a model or serial number. Judging from the serial number on the engine and doing a Google search, it looks like it could be a 1961 Wheel Horse (maybe??). Here are my main questions: Is this a hopeless project or could this be worth restoring?If it is worth it, should I be getting it sandblasted and repainted first? Does sandblasting and repainting drastically increase/decrease the value (I'm not planning on selling it, but if I were to restore it, it would be nice to do it correctly--just in case one were to sell it eventually)?
