Jump to content

boovuc

Supporter
  • Content Count

    2,091
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

boovuc last won the day on March 12 2015

boovuc had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,053 Excellent

About boovuc

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    C-175-8 Speed, 417-8 Speed, 310-8 Speed
  • favoritemodel
    417-8 Speed

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mill Hall in Central Pa
  • Occupation
    Haz-Mat Specialist
  • Interests
    Trout Fishing, Bike, Hike, Hunting & Puttering!

Recent Profile Visitors

2,849 profile views
  1. Hi Bob, Mine isn't a two wire unfortunately. GARRY!!!!!!!!!! I think you hit it! The idiot that used it before my friend got it from him to save must have taken it a part like he does everything else to try to fix it and.....................he lost the parts. They are not in the bag of crap he gave his brother in law! I need #8, 9, 10, 18, 19, 51 to make it work as it should or I 'll have to bypass it and I don't really want to do that. This makes sense now based on your post and the fact this jerk takes things a part and doesn't know what he's doing. (Stories told to me and what I have seen with this tractor). I'm probably screwed. I did see #8 on flea-bay. The bolts/washers and nuts are not an issue. The spring steel part may be. Thanks, Garry! I really appreciate the effort!
  2. I'm confused but not surprised. The button switch, 104680 can't work. I believe that is what's on it now. If I install the PTO lever in the disconnected, (back), position, when pushed forward to engage the PTO, the button pops out and obstructs the PTO lever from being pulled all the way back. (The Lever links are flush to the switch). It can't work. I need the ball switch but it has to be for that multi-wired connector. The opening for the switch is a round hole and won't accept anything but the button or ball switches. I forgot about the ball switches! Only the ball switch will work with this PTO lever. The 101845 switch is only a two wire connector. I wonder if this #%$*!& previous user bought a wrong PTO lever for the machine. I need a favor................................can someone or a couple look at their PTO levers and switches and tell me what you have? Especially a 1975 model! I may just need the correct PTO lever and hardware to work with the BUTTON PTO Switch. Thanks in Advance!
  3. I have a four or five wire connector PTO safety Switch on this 1975 C-160 I'm bringing back to life for a friend. The previous user of this machine had removed the PTO lever and must have replaced the PTO switch at one time. However.............the switch he, at one time, installed does not play with the PTO lever. His switch is a round push-button switch that will not work with the lever. No way! No how! (The PTO lever was removed from the machine and was in a box with other parts he didn't know how to put back together when the machine was delivered to me by his Bro-In-Law)! I think this machine needs an inclined lever. One that the PTO lever will slide up or down on pushing in or releasing the switch as the lever is moved. This is yet another screw up the previous user did to it while "trying to fix it"! Does anyone have or can lay eyes on their 1975 16 horse Wheel Horse to confirm what I think I need? If someone has one of the PTO incline Safety Switches that match up to the multi-wire connector, please give me a PM here. I need to get this thing put back together for him soon. The next thing would be how to bypass this multi-wire connector so I can give him a working PTO if I can't get a working switch. For the record: I can hold the PTO switch in with my finger and push in the clutch and the machine starts and runs fine. I just need to get this PTO lever operational again and I would like the safety switch to work but will negate it if I have to. Thanks!
  4. boovuc

    417a bogs down after 45 min

    Hi DRN, The KT engines are fussy when it comes to heat. You may be seeing a combination issue on your tractor. Yes, a carb cleaning may be in order but I agree with others about heat being an issue. When you are mowing, please make sure you keep the screen cleaned off on the flywheel side. Wipe it early and often as you mow. Check your spark plugs. Use the coolest plugs you can without fouling. Make sure your intake isn't pulling heated air from the engine. (get it back as far as you can behind the battery). Look for frosting on the intake manifold. This will tend to occur after you are running it awhile too lean. (then it wants to go the other direction too rich). I hope you can get it straightened out. They aren't as fussy as an Onan but they do have their own little set of bugs that need to be "treated" one by one for them to run perfect.
  5. I thought so but wanted to not believe this guy had this starter rebuilt and it was the one that was on it. That is BS. I winder what other little gremlins I'm going to find on this machine going forward? We'll get it back into shape as long as this clown didn't destroy the motor. Thanks for the confirmation!
  6. I have shimmed this using several different stocks and was to no avail. It felt and sounded too tight, wouldn't engage or ground. Took the flywheel shroud off and left the last mega-shim on it to show you guys how this is "trying" to mesh. The bendix gear has 16 teeth on it. I don't think it's the correct bendix but you guys tell me what you think.
  7. Thanks, Dave! Good to hear from you again! Steve...............I spoke to my buddy and he called the jack#%@, I mean "the party" that had the tractor before. He did change the starter out. Imagine that! That was most likely the last thing he did. So.................I'll shim it out for now and see if I can get it to mesh correctly. Otherwise, I'll find the correct starter. Can't wait to see what else this thing needs just to run. It will shine up nice for him but I'll bet the lines and the carb look like old Vaseline dispensers!
  8. Thanks for the replies. I did go over all the major connections. I didn't pull the ammeter. I didn't do the smaller wires from the solenoid thinking I have engagement so no need. I did't jump the starter directly either. I'll go back to it tonight and see. Steve..........I thought about shimming it too. I have no idea if that is the original starter. I'm assuming it was was but who knows. To me, when it locks up, it's telling me that I have a mesh on the flywheel but no oomph to turn it around. It doesn't take much to move the flywheel a little with the socket on the castle nut holding it to free it back up. This guy shouldn't have been allowed to throw a light switch without supervision. I hate seeing someone's well cared for machine go to hell like this did. Again. Thanks for the ideas and we'll put them to good use!
  9. Guys, I have a 1975 C-160 that the starter won't engage the flywheel. I'm getting this project started for a friend who's wife's father owned since new. He passed away and her husband wants to present it to her as a gift since her dad kept great care of it. (It was unfortunately abused for years by another "party" before my friend got it back before the guy could screw it up more)! Right now, the starter will spin and sometimes just lock up the whole works forcing me to put a ratchet the castle bolt holding the flywheel and move it back and forth to let it go. I took the starter off and cleaned up the bendix and cleaned all the electrical connectors involved. He and I know nothing as to why it was sitting though the jack#&% that had it has the PTO lever off and some parts missing here and there. The starter seems to spin up just fine. Anyone have a quick diagnosis? I have a new battery on it. The teeth on both the starter and the flywheel look good. (I've seen much worse and they work fine). I can turn the motor over by hand with the spark plug out so it isn't seized and I've tried cranking it with the plug out. It just isn't engaging and when it does, it won't turn it. Weak starter maybe? This machine was very well cared for for decades. I simply cleaned up the hood to show how well the original paint would clean up in the pics.
  10. boovuc

    No Name/C-160 Split Seat Wanted

    Looking for a good OEM period seat for a C-160. ((Opening between seat cushion and back). Please no basket-case seats. Thanks in advance! Boovuc
  11. Anyone looking back through my posts knows how much I have bestowed the virtues of Av100, (Aviation 100 Octane), fuels for the small engines I use. However.................................................................... The latest run to the airport cost me $5.05 a gallon cash price! The most I ever paid for Av100 was $4.80 and a month ago it was $4.68 a gallon. I have no idea what hit the fan but it was big and the fan was on hyper-drive! Again, I have never had anything come close to how well all the motors I use Av100 in run. From all out wide open throttle to idle and everything in between. My single Kohlers both K series and Magnums. My KT17's love the stuff. Hell even my Onans like the stuff and it kept the dreaded Onan carb gremlins away. But now I use it in a Honda GXV670 for a BIG lawn as well as my horses and generators, saws, weedeater and blower mixes. I use a lot more and it's getting salty. We have non-ethanol regular fuels. How is everyone on these fuels for longevity? I can give up performance as long as I'm not tearing a part carbs and fuel lines like I was.
  12. The back firing and coughing is an engine that could be leaning out on fuel. The fact it's intermittent can be a float or impeded fuel source. You should do the easiest and most common fixes FIRST before opening Pandora's box. Before tearing that engine open: Check the float gap as mentioned above or better yet, buy a carb kit and do that carb over. Make sure the butterfly bushings aren't wobbling around and adding a 2nd issue to another. Make sure every orifice and port is opened up all the way. You didn't say if you opened the carb or even took the bowl off. Well over 50% of the issues you are seeing can be fixed at the carb or back to the fuel tank. Make sure the bolts holding the carb to the intake of the engine are not loose. If you don't want to rebuild the carb at least take the bowl off, clean it up along with the float and needle valve on it. Then, using a screw driver, gently turn the main jet on your carb in until it just starts to get snug counting how many rotations you turned it. Then take it all the way out, clean up the needle valve and spray the crap out of the orifice before putting it in gently all the way then turning it out to the original setting you counted earlier. Make sure you spray carb cleaner into the fuel intake opening as well. Check your air filter! Is it old and plugged up? Run it sitting still with no debris around it without the air cleaner in. See if it helps or clears the issue. Doubtful but a plugged air filter and a dirty carb and bad throttle plate bushings, etc all can add to an issue). If tidying up the carb didn't help, get a small plastic gas tank off of a small engine. It only needs to hold a little gasoline. Put a shutoff valve on it and a filter if you wish and hang it above the engine or get someone to hold it higher than the engine. make sure you shut off the fuel valve from your tractor's fuel tank before proceeding! Disconnect the fuel line from the carb as it is now! Hook the little gravity fed fuel tank directly to the carb intake as you would from your tractor's fuel pump and start it up. This will tell you if you have a weak diaphragm pump, obstructions in your own fuel lines or vacuuming of your fuel tank "IF" the issues disappear. If doing these simple things first don't help, then move on to the others. If you do have a valve obstruction, if you can get it running as you say you can on occasion, spray Seafoam into the carb intake at medium to wide open throttle and try break up any carbon that may be on the top end of that engine or in the valve seat. (Yes it will smoke like crazy). Again, not knocking anyone's suggestions but do the simple stuff first and eliminate the common issues first before delving deeper.
  13. boovuc

    Keeping Connectors from Corroding

    Enough response for me! I'm lubing them up tonight! Thanks!
  14. OK! How does the forum group keep their electrical connector internals from corroding? (This would be real helpful for all you 520/518 & 416 owners). I have one of my tractors in a relatives garage with NO ventilation. NONE! The building with it's dirt floor feels like the deep south on hot days and suffers wild temp and humidity swings. I had the connectors on the 417 corrode to the point the battery died. It wasn't charging. At WOT the battery terminals on my VOM read 11.29 VDC. I opened the connectors up, cleaned them up with contact cleaner and a small old points file and put them back together and I was back to just shy of 14 volts charging. They looked pretty bad but I know they were OK at the end of Fall last year and when it was stored in my better insulated garage. I was going to smear the cleaned connector pins with dielectric grease and put them back together but I wanted to hear what you guys think.
  15. boovuc

    Dixon Grizzly/Honda Surging

    Well for what it's worth.......................the Dixon is running fine now. In the 7 weeks and 12+ hours I have on it, It has had: 1. Both fuel tanks removed, flushed/cleaned. Fuel cap breathers cleaned out. (Royal PIA). 2. New shutoffs to both tanks and all new fuel lines and a new splitter for the combining of the two separate tanks. (Improvement but not near fixed). 3. New Tygon tubing for the smaller lines at and around the carb. 4. New Fuel filter(s) as I progressed to see if there was improvement as I worked from the tanks to the Carb. 5. On still seeing large pockets of air leaving the fuel filter, I replaced the vacuum fuel pump and replaced the vacuum line. (More improvement). 6. Replaced the crankcase vent hose. 7. At this stage, it ran much better but still had a pulsating WOT but now at least it idles and doesn't require choking it. 8. Bought a new OEM carb and installed and it's fixed. (Plus switched it to Av100 gasoline like the WH tractors). I was able to do it all despite my bum hand. It just took a lot of time to do it and quite a few miles since I don't have a trailer wide enough to haul it so I had to do the work at my aunt's home. All in all, with the exception of having to adjust the PTO gaps since it doesn't engage until it cools off, I have about $2100 in the unit that has 531.5 hours on it now. (One owner/not used commercially). One Dixon Grizzly locally for sale with twice the hours and the dealership is asking $3500 for it. Same year with the 60" deck. Now this thing just needs to last me a couple years.
×