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About ranger

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/18/1952

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ely. Cambridge. UK.
  • Occupation
    mechanical engineer (retired).
  • Interests
    Horses mechanical and organic

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  1. ranger

    1 bottom plow

    I've got this piece of kit, but minus the plough/plow part. Still trying to find the time after retiring to fabricate one from a "Lemken" stubble plough mouldboard.
  2. ranger

    3 ounce ball peen

    Another usually more precise way is to use ball bearings from old ball races, press one over the hole with the gasket underneath, it should stay in place, then gently tap the ball. This way you won't / shouldn't miss and damage the edges of the hole with the hammer. Save different size bearings for different size holes, but always use a larger one than the hole. Another thing that works is a "piston" from a "defunct" axial piston hydraulic pump, remove the bronze foot from the piston, you then have a "ball on stick" which is easier to hold and hit!
  3. ranger

    What do I need to fix this

    If you're sure it's the outer track of the bearing you're looking at, if you have a welder, lay down a few runs of weld,not an awful lot, on the bearing race. What will happen is, the metal will expand, then after cooling, will be slightly smaller than it was originally. The bearing should then drift out much easier with less chance of damage to the housing.
  4. ranger

    Removing Broken bolts in aluminum/alloy

    Hi pfrederi If you have a broken bolt in a component which has other threaded holes close by, cut a piece of steel bar/plate whatever,that will cover all the holes, drill larger holes roughly where the holes in the component are, they don't have to line up exactly, then, if you have a lathe, cut some short pieces of round bar, say 1" or so long, drill holes larger than the threaded holes, on the lathe machine inserts to fit the holes in the bosses, make some spare inserts. Drill the inserts to a close fit with the bolt size for the threaded holes, drill the spare inserts with smaller drills, up to the tapping size for the broken bolt. Bolt the plate and bosses to the good component using the correct size inserts,then weld the bosses to the plate. You now have a drilling jig which should allow you to drill out any broken bolt/stud on that component, or another the same. Start off with the insert for the actual bolt size, run the drill into the end of the bolt, this will give you a true centre for the smaller drills to pick up from, the bosses should hold the drill perpendicular to the part being drilled. Be extra carefull with the smaller drills,"peck" at the bolt and withdraw to clear the swarf, tiny drill bits work best at high speeds. Your question regarding welding aluminium/aluminum, if you are using an ac tig you will have the "cleaning" effect which you won't get with the mig, the answer is "Clean" "Clean""Clean". Don't just wire brush the part, if it's a broken boss with a threaded hole, drill it out first, use a rotary burr to remove the oxide build up, after cleaning the oxide will begin to re-form straightaway. Bolt the part down to reduce the chance of warping, preheat with a small gas torch, especially if using the mig, "Alli" will suck the heat away very quickly, you find you have no fusion at the start, then you burn through. you could also try one of the alloy " brazing" kits available which work using only a propane torch, again remember, "CLEAN" or it won't work. Good luck and have fun.. Regards Doug.
  5. ranger

    How to get stud out?

    Nut welded on should do it. If you have a bolt/stud broken off close to, or just below the face of a casting, etc, find a washer with a hole the size or slightly smaller than the bolt, hold it over the bolt, then hit it with the mig. The washer should stop you welding the bolt to the casting. Then hold a nut, a half / thin nut is best, over the washer / bolt and fill the centre of the nut with weld. This usually puts enough heat into the assembly to allow you to crack it free. Good luck
  6. ranger

    Needle Scalers

    If the tool does the job, and your not using it 24/7, then why pay higher prices. If you need it for a day job, it's a different matter. A good friend of mine, sadly passed on now, used to carry the cheapest set of spanners and screwdrivers under the seat in his car, he used to say, "if I break down, what good is a set of 'SnapOn' tools sitting at home when I'm broken down 100 miles away from them". " If I only use them once, they've paid for themselves!"
  7. ranger

    ATV Winch Limit Switch

    Nice use of a winch Would it be possible to fit a limit switch in one of the wires so it breaks the circuit when raised, and add another button in parallel with the limit switch but the button would be "normally open". When the "up" limit is reached, the circuit is broken, release the up button, select down, and press additional button to re-make the circuit. The extra button could perhaps be foot operated ?
  8. ranger

    Theroretical 8 speed question.

    Nice project, I don't think you'll need to gear down at all, with the gear reduction of the 8 speed, And your axles, you'll probably have to gear up to get to walking pace! You may be better off using a gearbox from a small front wheel drive car turned 90deg, driveshafts to the axles would also be easier to fabricate.
  9. I'd say the one pictured on page 103 of "Straight from the Horses Mouth". I believe only one was made.
  10. ranger

    Tough to find crankshaft

    How about having the crank ground, the rod bored enough to have a white metal, (Babbit) insert poured in and machined. Older engines used to have the big ends done like this, Ford V8 flathead. YouTube has videos of the process. Look for Keith Fenner.
  11. I'll second that, Nord-lock washers are great where you have excesses of vibration and shock. We use them at work on various parts of runway cleaning equipment to reduce chance of 'F.O.D'.
  12. ranger

    More shop art!

    Like it, a brilliant way to store your spare parts, you'll never forget where you've put them 🤔😃. Parts always on 'hand', ready to perform a ' timely' repair. 😀
  13. ranger

    Small welding project today

    Nice bit of artwork Mr & Mrs Professor1990, and "recycling" to boot! Things like these made from old used/ worn items that have a 'history', always look much nicer than ones made from new parts, we see this kind of art for sale over here, but made from new bits they seem to lack "character". That's My opinion anyway! Doug.
  14. ranger

    Small welding project today

    Made this for a friend as a Christmas gift, some of the shoes are from a pony he bred, which we now own, so some sentimental value there. Painted with wood stove paint, then cured by putting it in front of a diesel space heater for a while.
  15. One thing to be careful of with "easy outs" is using one that is too big compared to the broken bolt / stud you are trying to remove. If the hole you drill leaves too little metal left, you run the risk of the tapered " easy out" expanding the broken bolt in the hole and acting like an expanding anchor bolt in concrete. The ones I use are shaped like " Torx" bits, you drill a smaller hole, hammer the bit in, then use a socket wrench to undo. Some people I know actually use cheap "Torx" bits for this purpose.