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andrewLL

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About andrewLL

Wheel Horse Information

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    Bucks, UK

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  1. andrewLL

    C-140 8 Speed Kohler 321S

    Hi, try Screwfix 4 stroke oil for lawnmowers. It’s straight 30W, what I have used in my Kohler 12hp K301
  2. andrewLL

    Wheele

    Hi, I made up a replacement rod using threaded bar from Screwfix and rod ends from a company called Bearing Boys. I’m sure that you could turn a bar down and thread each end for a neater job. Is that a Myford lathe in the background? Bearing Boys also sell belts if you need them for the cutter deck and less expensive than Toro belts from a lawnmower shop. Andrew
  3. andrewLL

    Christmas project

    Hi, and a happy Christmas to all. Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day. I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:- The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility. When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored? Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again. i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine) The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there. What do you think? i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it? Andrew
  4. andrewLL

    Gear shift problem

    Thank you all for your assistance here, the picture was especially helpful. It's all back together now and working as it should. Andrew
  5. andrewLL

    Loss of power

    Hi, hoping someone can help. I'm over in France trying to tidy up my place before the winter so do not have all the tools I have back at home. I have a separate problem with the gear box but have posted separately. Back in July when l last used the tractor it was loosing power when it got hot, and looking on the internet it appeared that the coil may be the problem. i have just returned to France and brought a new coil with me and replaced the old one. This coil has a separate ballast resistor attached. The tractor started first go and I started to cut the grass but with gearbox problems. The grass was long and thick in places and the tractor coped well, just heading the governor apply a bit more power in places. Them after about half an hour the engine lost power and there were some visible flames commons ftom the exhaust. can any one tell me what is happening here. I assume that it is heat related because the engine started first go and then ran well. But it must have been fully up to temperature long before this loss of power. Seeing flames from the exhaust indicates that the fuel is not being burnt in the cylinder, is this an ignition problem? Or are the valve not shutting properly an the fuel is just being pushed straight out of the engine? I'm sure it would look quite cool after dark, but with no power the grass will keep growing. Hop some one can help. Thanks, Andrew
  6. andrewLL

    Gear shift problem

    Hi Bob, thanks for your reply, I have had a bolt turned down to 3.9mm diameter and refitted the gear stick but I still have a problem and hope someone can point in the right direction. The gear stick is fitted with the dog point screw locating it but not too tight as I assume it needs some movement but it is stuck in gear. I think it is in second but not 100% sure. The gear stick is back close to the seat which would correspond to 1st or reverse but will not move forward. I assume the lever was not correctly located before fitting the locating screw. I am not quite sure how the screw should work because unless it is very 'sloppy' it will only allow side to side movement of the lever. Can anyone help please? Any way I was able to cut nearly all of the grass in one gear with no neutral before another problem re-occurred and the tractor lost nearly all power (I will post a question separately under engines), I guess this is all part of the challenge of running a 45 year old tractor. Thanks in advance for all the help I know will be forthcoming. Andrew
  7. Hi, hoping someone can help me. I've just started my 1972 Raider not having touched it since July and it fired up first go, can't complain about that. However after a few minutes use I stopped to refuel and then could not get it inlto gear. I found that the main lever 1 2 3 + R (not high / low) was very loose. It appears that the small bolt that holds the shift lever in place had come undone. It was only finger tight and when I removed it, it broke into two. Fortunately nothing went into the gear box, but I dropped the end with the reduced diameter peg that located the shifter. As I am away from home in SW France I do not have many spares available, but I do have a nut and bolt of the correct thread but just need to know what diameter the end needs to be turned down to and what length? Can anybody help? I have a friend out here with a lathe so that part should be easy. I expected to be able to select a gear just by holding the selector in place but could not, is this normal or are there bigger problems? Any help would be appreciated, oh and just before coming over to France I bought a black hood Wheel horse on fleebay with no engine, but have a 16hp Kohler in the shed that should fit, just hope it works as I got it for next to nothing and the previous owner said it spat flames from the carb! A project for the winter. Thanks, Andrew
  8. Hi I have recently bought a cheap old gearbox mainly for the cast hubs that the wheels bolt to, then I thought as it turns a little but can't change gear or anything like that it would be interesting to look inside!! Do they all look like this? Can it be brought back to life? It's now soaking in a tub of paraffin to see if it will clean up. It's a 4 speed with high and low ratios with a 1 1/8" axle, I think I read somewhere that there are two sizes of axle. Any thoughts? Andrew
  9. andrewLL

    Rotavator / Tiller spring

    Cleat thanks for the reply and sorry for not explaining the problem very well. The bracing bar I am referring to runs diagonally from below the small pulley wheel forward towards the rod that you referred to on the opposite side. I assume that it is to help stop the frame flexing and twisting. But with this in place it would foul on the tow hitch which runs down the centre line of the tiller. So could not raise and lower the tiller. Has that made the problem any clearer? all th best Andrew
  10. Hi, hoping that someone may be able to tell me what size spring I need for tensioning the drive belt on a tiller (length and diameter). I have recently purchased a tiller on fleabay which appears to have hardly been used as so much paint is still on the tines. The only part missing is the small spring that attaches to the idler pully and tensions the belt. The instructions are dated 1994 and the model is 79370 and I hope it will fit on to my 72 Raider. The other potential problem that I have is I am unable to remove the bar holding the tow hitch on. I have hit it as hard as I dare but don't want to risk cracking the transmission casing, all I can do is spray it with WD40 every so often and hope it eventually releases. Do you think it would seriously weaken the tiller if I cut out the diagonal bracing bar so I could fit it with the tow hitch in position. Any advice would be appreciated. Andrew
  11. andrewLL

    Not charging. I think??

    The answer to the question about my MG is that it is a 1980 model. I'm sure someone will notice that the bumpers are not the standard black rubber things that had to be added to keep the U.S. regulators happy. Unfortunately changing the bumpers is not quite as simple as a straight swap. The front wings also had to be changed to ones with holes for the indicators and side lights, not that that was a problem as I replaced all the external panels except the bonnet and boot lid. The ride height was also raised on the rubber bumper models and that has been corrected with new springs front and rear. Thanks for all the helpful replies about my charging problem. Andrew
  12. I'm hoping that someone may be able to point me in the right direction here. I recently restored a Raider 12 and ran it around the garden briefly before taking it to bits and then out to France where I put it back together again. That was this time last year and I cut about half an acre of brambles and bracken. It was then used again in March and June with no problems, but recently having used it again, it would not start after a run. The starter was not turning and no click from the solenoid, but it started first go with jump leads onto the car and then stopped as soon as they were removed. I charged the battery which is only a year old and it worked fine. I guess it's not charging and that I have just been running it from the battery all the time. What I have remembered from when I stripped the machine down was that there was a question about this, but when it all went back together and ran ok I forgot all about it. I did measure the resistance across the alternator coils at the time and there was continuity but I can't remember the resistance reading. When the engine is running at idle speed the ammeter oscillates quickly from positive to negative but this stops when the engine revs are increased and settles down to a small discharge current, about the thickness of the needle. Any suggestions what this could be? The problem I have is that I am not going back to France for a few months and would like to take the necessary parts over to fix it. Also I have just bought a tiller to go on the back and will need some advice on the lift mechanism, but will put this as a separate post. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Andrew
  13. andrewLL

    Homemade tachometer build

    This is very interesting, I had been trying to think how I could use an inexpensive car tachometer but could not find one for a single cylinder engine. They are generally switchable between 4, 6 & 8 cylinder modes so would need a circuit to reduce the number of electrical pulses to correspond to a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. Your circuit seems much easier, did yet get finished and do you have a circuit diagram marked up with the component values? I'm sure I can translate the circuit on to some strip board and soldering up a circuit is no problem. Andrew
  14. andrewLL

    Cutter Deck V Belt

    Thank you both for the help here. It's interesting that of all the possible suppliers in the UK you found the belts at Bearingboys, I have obtained replacement track rod ends from them for the steering. Regards Andrew
  15. andrewLL

    Cutter Deck V Belt

    Hi, just hoping someone can help me with my cutter deck from a 1973 Raider 12. I have restored my rusty deck that was full of holes and it now works well but the belts are worn and near the end of their lives needing replacement. There was no identification plate on the deck so I don't know what part number / type it is to look up replacement parts. You can probably see from the picture that it is a 36" rear discharge deck, with two 12" blades and one 14" blade. The bearings are the one piece sealed bearing and shaft unit (part 103119), which I had to get shipped over from the States but was not as expensive as I expected. Is this enough to identify the deck? The belt on the deck is 1,910mm (75.25") long and 10mm wide tapering to 8mm on the inside. The main drive belt from engine around mule drive to the deck is 2,416mm (just over 95") long and 12mm wide tapering to 8mm on the inside. Both belts are worn and possibly stretched. Can anyone help with the Wheelhorse part numbers for these, and has anyone any experience with ordering standard industrial belts which are probably much less expensive. Thanks.
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