Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,954 Excellent


About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I sold my beloved Land Cruiser, the old thing was really starting to rot and my physical condition just won't allow me to drive something like that for long distances to work anymore. Sad day, but it had to go. Anyhow, time to find another "work truck". I've used Toyota's in the past due to their reliability and just plain well-built platform that lasts. I love my '14 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab, but in all honesty, it's too nice to go to work. Using it the last year or so has really taken a toll on its paint and interior - looking pretty rough already and it only has 50k on it. Don't want to destroy it taking the thing to the crazy job sites I work on, just too much money tied up in the thing do that. So, looking for something else. Considered going as low as a Rav4, but they are built more like a car than a truck and doubt it would last very long with that sort of beating. I like the Tacoma and had a sweet '08 but their V6 is a bit anemic and used prices on them are staggering considering what they are - a midsize gone too far. For the money, first generation Tundra pickups are pretty cheap and quietly one of the most reliable pickups built, a lot of other Tradesman I work with use them and beat 'em pretty hard with little regard to keeping them even decent, but they just keep going anyway. Sounds pretty decent to me as a low-slung car is out of the question for sure. So, looking at local market '03-'05 Tundra extra cab pickups, a short box is fine at 6.5' for what I need. Prefer the 4.7L V8, mileage isn't bad and the extra towing torque is necessary. Anyone own one and can report more on quirks or things to watch out for besides the basic visual stuff? Sarge
  2. Around here, and many areas of the country have zero in-school shop programs of any sort. None in the high schools, let along Junior High - it's all gone to Vocational courses offered by local colleges and of course costs a lot to send a kid there. I hate it, none of the kids are taught to think and work with their hands - us older folks have a limited time left and cannot keep doing all the mechanical work and the Trades are suffering the results. Kids don't grow up like they did years ago and getting young blood into any Trade is tough, it takes ten times longer to teach them from scratch in the Apprenticeships than it used to and once they are out on jobs it shows with injuries and poor work skills. Not to mention work ethics, only about 20% are worth their salt and can stand the test of time. I hope things change, seeing a lot more schools go back to having in-house shop classes is a step in the right direction. Not everyone can afford college and sit at a desk or work in a lab. Someone has to repair things and build our infrastructure - the disposable society is a deadly waste of resources and needs to change, quickly. The young folks I work with can't believe that a guy can repair any engine, build a road, weld/fabricate, carpentry, plumbing and even sew and repair his clothes - it all started in Junior High at shop classes. I see a desire in kids to learn this stuff and try to push them in that direction if possible - if the desire is there they just need a place to learn, why not our Public School system? Just never understood why the school shops went away in the first place. Sarge
  3. Sarge

    Vintage Trucks

    A Scout in that condition is close to the same market as the older Land Cruisers - it will not go down in value, only up from this point. If you can buy it and restore it to original equipment - worth even more money. Like the Cruiser, the Scout is not cheap nor easy to source parts, in fact, the Scouts are harder to find certain items and worth their weight in gold. But, long-term - a bit of work makes an investment that you can actually make money on later. My wife thought I was nuts investing the amount of money I dropped into my old Cruiser. I not only got it properly running and driving but drove it to work most of the time during the 7yrs I had it - and sold it for more than I had in it despite the continuing rust and rot. Certain models of trucks are more than just a collector's item or cool, some are flat-out Icons - the Scout is one of them. Sarge
  4. There are single throat Weber carbs made for multi-cylinder setups, but they come with a price tag, of course. Synchronization is truly the key, without them being balanced perfectly you'll lose power in a hurry and risk damaging a cylinder. Unless you want to spend a lot of time/money making a multiple carb setup and building the manifold - the easiest way is to modify the current intake into accepting a bigger carb. A bit of flow work in the heads and intake runner/exhaust yields some pretty decent bang for the buck results. I've hotrodded a lot of small engines, some with a lifespan less than a couple of minutes before they exploded, with some being pretty spectacular. Honestly, I'd start with a lot cheaper engine than a Kohler, using a Briggs Vanguard V-twin or similar is half the money. Sarge
  5. I've always said RTV should require a special permit to even purchase the stuff. I've watched people destroy automatic transmissions, engines and everything else with the various colors and grades just from not knowing better. It would help if they would at least read the instructions on the back, but even then there are very limited uses for the stuff. Honestly, can't say I've used up 1/10th of a tube in the last 35yrs or so, I hate RTV with a passion. The Right Stuff is far better - if you can get any out of the pressurized container more than one time before it hardens in the nozzle and destroys it. Sarge
  6. Sarge

    Hydro pedal kit

    Just fyi - if you don't like the '73 center mounted direction control it can be converted to the earlier/later style long arm next to the dash - you just need those parts from the other years. The biggest difference is the motion control frame that sits in the center tunnel which controls the hydro transmission. That part can be tricky to change, but it's been outlined here many times on how to get it apart without destroying it. Sarge
  7. Hmm, fastest on pavement? 190 in a '70 Daytona Charger, slightly, uh, modified for stability. We were shooting for the 200mph mark, but ran into traffic on I-80, lol. Craziest at high speed? 1978 Chrysler New Yorker - modified 440-4, 172mph. Had plenty left in the throttle and way plenty of gearing, but when the nose was trying to lift the front tires off the ground, that was enough for me. Not cool when 3 tons doesn't respond to any steering input at high speed..lol. Sarge
  8. Sarge

    Big Twin Head Sanding and Tappet Needed

    One of the best investments I ever did in tools was to buy a used machinist's straight edge for checking heads and block decks, intake manifolds, etc. Tolerance of less than .0002" total on it's 24" length makes for some truly flat work. I also had bought a very heavy 7075 aluminum drop that is 2-1/2"x5"x20"L and had it surface ground to .0003" tolerance - that is my flattening platen on the bench and been using it the last 20yrs. I also picked up some flat gauges that go down to .0005" for re-checking my work after flattening a cylinder head. When I built custom Weber carb work/manifold adapters/plates and did intake flow work all this stuff was necessary - really pays off now as I can use it for other things such as working on these small engines. The point? Not all pieces of glass are truly flat - find a thick (at least 3/8"), tempered table top or door off a piece of furniture and take it to a machine shop. Keep it under 24" square and it should be rigid enough to hold it's shape, smaller, of course, is always better. If you ask nicely, most machinists will check a surface while you wait - but it has to be a rigid piece or you are wasting their time. Might get surprised, I've seen a lot of pieces that are off nearly .010" in less than 18" square, not good. Most small engine head tolerances are .003-.005" maximum, so that doesn't work. Glass is not always flat, folks - you must check your work when done cutting the surface back to spec. Simple 18" machinist's grade straight edges are not that expensive, might want to invest into one. Also, for a truly and amazingly cheap flat surface to work with - check into getting a granite surface plate - once in a while industrial suppliers will have free shipping sales, 18" square surface plates can be had very cheap and it's always the shipping that is a killer. As a great, occasional surface flattening plate - either one is an excellent size to get a diy'er started granite surface plate granite surface plate #2 machinist straight edge Getting a cylinder head within a tolerance of .003" across a typical 8"-10" length is not all that easy. Yes, most glass is pretty "flat" - but it's not as flat as one would think. Many engine shops now have gone to surface grinding belt machines to accommodate cylinder heads due to a much easier design versus surface grinders and time-consuming setup procedures. Basically, these are a very precision belt sander. For those shops, cutting a small engine cylinder head is a treat compared to man-handling a 125lb diesel head - so they will do them quickly and pretty cheap too. Don't ignore a local engine shop - doing small jobs is something these guys don't mind - it's a quick buck and gives them a break from the more tedious stuff. Sarge
  9. Got some texts from him yesterday - he did get it insured and fully registered. The current plan is to come back this next weekend and pick up the rest of the parts. Just for fun, I did ask what he does for a living - got a pretty interesting surprise... He's an artist, more like an Art director and works in TV and other things. Maytag commercials of recent times - he's worked on those and many more. Hmmm, well - at least he has a decent income. I knew when we met he was a bit "off", like most of us in our own way. But, the guy had no scars, no callouses nor any real wear on his hands - so I know it's not someone that is "mechanical". Says he's sick of sitting behind a desk 24/7, wants to get out and hunt, fish and enjoys vintage 4x4's. Wow, ok...good with me. Seems to have a ton of drive, so who knows? He has bitten off a huge project and as I had explained to him - these trucks seem so simple, yet are so complicated due to being built by the Japanese. Turns out, he dove into his Mitsubishi quite a lot and knows things about JIS fasteners and such (read up on them, not a Philips !!!), which was a good sign. I pound that point out to anyone that picks up a screwdriver, JIS fasteners are different, especially on the older equipment as the angles on the heads are much different. I showed him my much-loved Vessel and KTC drivers - he actually understood them and why they are necessary. That gives me quite a lot of hope, we'll see over time if he follows through. I'm starting to hunt for a second vehicle for work - since the Cruiser is gone my nice pickup is really going to take a beating from the job sites I work on. It won't necessarily have to be nice, just a good truck that can take a beating and be very reliable. Can't afford a Toyota at this time - even half in the grave they are priced way too high used. Looking at Dodge Dakota models around 2000-2002 as those were pretty bulletproof and simple enough. I'd prefer something with better fuel mileage numbers but until you get into the newer vehicles it's just not going to happen and I'm good with that. On the best days the Cruiser could hit 16-18mpg on state highways, but using the Interstate at 70mph, uh - more like 10 at best. The Dakota is rated around 16-18 averages, so that's fine. Just trying to find one that hasn't been totally abused by a youngster is going to be tough, but I'm sure something will come up. Sure feels weird going outside and not seeing that old faithful truck sitting out there, even my wife is a bit sad about it which surprised me. Necessity has a way of changing your life, sometimes its just better in the long run. Sarge
  10. Sarge

    D 200 dash light

    Message sent.... Sarge
  11. Sarge

    Voltage regulator adjustable?

    Make absolutely certain you have clean grounds in the whole system, especially between the engine/frame/battery/starter-gen. Without them, the regulator cannot properly react to the system voltage from the battery and can shoot the charging voltage too high - cooking the battery. It's the same issue with the later stator systems, they have to be able to correctly read the battery voltage. Adjusting the regulator cutoff voltage setting for a starter-gen can get a bit complicated - but it could be from someone filing the contacts as well in the past. Sarge
  12. I'm pretty certain by the looks of him, his hands in particular - he's never touched a screwdriver, let alone tackled a vintage truck. A lot of these younger folks are trolling the Land Cruiser sites and looking at how folks are making restoration projects look easy - but they have no idea how much work is really involved. I pray he doesn't decide to tear into it and then leave it in a pile to be scrapped or sold off later - that happens a lot with these things. With no real experience, tackling the bodywork alone is a huge undertaking, and if not done properly he ends up with something that can't even be re-assembled. The IH8MUD vintage Toyota forum is a huge resource for anything that concerns Toyota trucks - there is nothing on any model truck they made that has not been completely covered, including full-blown restorations. They are also an awesome source for parts - many owner/vendors that have tackled building NLA parts (even really weird stuff, like rubber parts or even a full-blown molded dash pad) and will offer support help to the new members that come aboard - very much the same type of community as we have here, just far bigger. But, the last few years a lot of highly demanding young people have come aboard and don't know how to listen, learn and earn a place - they expect everyone to hold their hand and offer them help without even trying to research the plethora of threads that have been repeatedly covered. Many of the forums are having that problem and it's growing. Not always the case and we've had some that are very young that have more than earned a good reputation as well as given back to the community, but it's not like it used to be. I'm not certain which spectrum this guy is going to fit into - but he sure got off to a bad start when he came here.... The whole thing was a bad deal to begin with - I loved that truck and wanted it to go to someone that would love it as I did, but he's the worst example of those who should never own a vintage vehicle, let alone work on it. Yeah, he had the money - sure. But not really a worthy buyer - especially with his tactic of how he showed up to take it home. He literally had someone drop him off at the end of the driveway from a 2-1/2hr drive - and leave. It was a real WTF? moment for me, I nearly threw his butt off the property at that second for doing that. It was like a forced sale and I'm pretty certain he knew this old man wasn't too keen on him getting his pride and joy once we met. I also suspect the money wasn't his, but more like his parents or whatever - these things aren't cheap and I was asking a pretty steep price due to all the NOS and spare parts included, some of which are no longer available and worth a small fortune. It got to the point of being sick of the tire kickers, the ones that showed up and thought it was valued far too high for what they were looking at and so many that wanted to lowball the price on it to part it out - that's enough to boil my blood. I nearly took a piece of steel to one knucklehead that laughed at the price for it - his exact words were - "it's just a Jeep, after all?". He was told to leave before needing an ambulance. I did have several that didn't blink at the cost - they knew what it was, how rare they are to find in driveable condition and what the parts value is worth, but they just couldn't afford it. I would have rather accepted half to let someone like that have it - someone that truly appreciated what the thing is, not some idiot looking for something that is just "cool". I know I'm going to regret it, and will probably catch a lot of flak from the senior members on the MUD forum for selling it to this guy - but, hey, they had their chance since the thing has been for sale for 8 months now. Just time to wash my hands of it - thanks for letting me vent somewhere that he won't see versus the Cruiser forum. I just hope he proves me wrong... Sarge
  13. Sarge

    Belt guide

    Part of what is causing that problem is wear in the pivot point on that linkage where it goes through the frame - see if the holes are egged out. It's also common for the sliding portion of the arm to be severely worn on these models that use that type of belt engagement/brake linkage. I've had to weld up or make new arms to repair several of these. Once restored to the original shape of the design, they work great and keep the belt properly lined up to the other pulleys. Sarge
  14. Just a suggestion - Those heavy duty key switches have to carry that high current to run the starting side of the starter-generator, to keep it safer and remove the chance of a lot of current potentially shorting out against the fuel tank you can use a starter relay. There are some small, but more than capable enough relays for small engines out there that can be mounted to the frame, right behind the battery on the right side of most late 60's models. Once the belt guard is installed - it is quite hidden from view and looks as though it's the way it was designed in the first place. This makes the wiring in the dash much simpler, and much easier to shoehorn that fuel tank into it's tray. The relays can also handle the current better versus relying on the mechanical contacts in that Cole-Hersee key switch, which aren't easy to find anymore. Up to you, I still run a NOS key switch in the old 1277, I prefer that cool L-key anyway versus the later common Indak keys. When that one gets rebuilt - it will get a relay to remove the heavy wiring in the dash, just makes sense to me. Sarge
  15. Sarge

    D 200 dash light

    You'll have to look inside at the contacts - many of this type of socket was riveted between the contact and the spade connector for the wiring. A simple pick to remove corrosion and a light punching on those rivets will generally restore the contacts. I fix a lot of these types of sockets for auto restoration here, most aren't all that hard and the originals are far better quality materials than aftermarket knockoff replacements. If you want - mail/ship it here, I'll fix it or determine if it's truly junk and send it back - no charge either way. Sarge