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broken96vr6

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About broken96vr6

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    State College, PA
  1. Thanks, but right now I'm going to be moving to a new place where I'll need my own tractor so I'm going to be saving for that. Now I don't need something big, diesel, and 4wd but I want one! Aron
  2. broken96vr6

    Where Do You Guys Buy Parts?

    Pretty much everything I needed for the 520H I restored I bought from https://www.rcpw.com/lookup/ with the exception of the SS hardware from a place close to me that specializes in that kind of thing.
  3. broken96vr6

    Need Tires for a Work Horse 700

    I've had good luck with http://www.greaterclevelandtire.com/mower-tires/
  4. Just back from the holidays which means I'm still getting over a simultaneous sinus infection/strep throat from my two little niece's. Doesn't bother me though since they are the cutest little munchkins ever. Just managed to install the hitch on the 520H and then the 2 stage snowblower on my brothers tractor between the high temp fever and 18 hours a day sleeping trying to get over it. I'm pretty much outta file space at this point so this is all I can upload. I did do some spot painting/sanding/buffing on the hood which came out good but I'm going to be painting the hood and seat pan on both the 520H and 520xi come spring just to start from a nice clean slate again. Aron
  5. Found these at Sears http://www.sears.com/arnold-corp-wheel-weight/p-SPM2697578602?prdNo=45&blockNo=95&blockType=G95 The problem is that the Lowes kits (both plastic and steel) only come with one weight and the ones I ordered were $60 each shipped. Gotta keep on looking. Aron
  6. Thanks John. I'll see if I can find some of those but they seem to be NLA from a quick search. The weights in that kit look like the Arnold weights and I wouldn't be surprised if they were, which might explain the NLA since they are moving to polymer cased weights. It also looks like I'll have to get them close to me as shipping is very expensive, which is why I went with the place I did for their free shipping. Aron
  7. Finished painting and reassembling the hitch over the past 2 days. Came together well besides painting the pin and ends of the rocker arm without thinking so I'm going to strip those back down when I put it on. Everything was wire wheeled to bare metal than primed and painted with 3 coats of Rustoleum regal red. Still looking for suitcase weights on CL so as soon as 4 of those show up I can paint and mount them. Aron
  8. Got in the JB Jr weight bracket. I was going to paint it red but I decided to keep it black to offset all of the red from the weights and hitch. I also received the weights and am not too happy. When I first started looking I found that Arnold Co. had recently stopped making them in solid metal and are now plastic encased concrete. When I first started looking I made calls to a few places and had them visually check to make sure they were steel, and NJ Wholesale Supply was one of them. They told me they were and with free shipping so I pulled the trigger. When I opened the first box they were of course plastic and I'm sending them back. I know I can get Deere green weights for $57 from Home Depot and paint them but I'd rather find unmarked ones so the search continues. Aron
  9. Just got in a complete rear sleeve hitch assembly I bought off CL. I ordered a sleeve hitch weight bar from Johnny Bucket and four #42 Arnold weights. Once those come in I'll start stripping everything and painting them regal red. Aron
  10. Thanks Glenn. For the footrests and pads I ordered a set from a 1996 520H. If I did it again I would have gotten a set from a 1996 314-8 since that would have had the notch I cut to fit Matt's hydro pedal already there so if you are planning on the hydro pedal go with the footrests from the manual tractor (you'll also need 16 I believe of the little black plastic screws to hold the pad on the footrest). The xi blower is from a New Holland GT20 that I found close to here. It's the same as the WH 2 stage only black. From the thanksgiving storm and using both the 520H single stage and 520xi 2 stage the same day it looks like the single stage works better in less than a foot of snow as far as throwing but it clogs if the snow is very wet or heavy. Once you get lots of snow the 2 stage will probably outperform it but it really needs the auger to be almost full to be efficient. Aron
  11. I used 1000 grit wet paper by hand then Meguires compound on a buffer after. It depends on what your going for what you'll need. For a car with clear coat you have to be very careful when sanding and buffing because you can burn through the paint.For tractor single stage paint I could sand and buff without much worry. The reason I did it was that the paint was faded and had some white spots on it but all the paint was there and thick so I knew I could remove a bunch of it. If you have rust or missing paint this won't help but if it's just scratched or faded it's a great way to make it look new again. When I do clearcoat paint I'll wet sand up to 2000 and then buff but this didn't need that much attention. Some people will start at 600 but that takes off too much for my tastes. Plus 1000 grit can be buffed out without going up to a higher grit first and it removes scratches and orange peel pretty quickly. I suggest watching some vidoes on YouTube and then practicing on an a piece that you aren't worried about destroying as that can happen when you are starting out. Once you get the hang of it the process really is easy. Aron
  12. It's a way of cutting the paint more aggressively than normal polishing. It involves wet sandpaper and then polishing compound. There's a ton of how-to videos and articles on the web that can help. Aron
  13. Nice catch! Those were from when we first got it for him (and he was still moving into the house as you can see from the mess). Aron
  14. Finally got the front tires on and not a moment too soon. When I got to my parents and went to back it out the left front was completely flat so I backed it into the yard and removed the wheels and brought them to the local tire shop. They weren't equipped for any wheel smaller than 12" so they did them with spoons, that looked unpleasant especially with 4 ply tires! They had to use tubes because they couldn't get the bead set without them. Don't know about that one but it was only $10 extra so I said go ahead. Got home and put them on, along with the new drive rod that Matt sent me for his hydro foot pedal. The one I originally got was rubbing on the frame so there was no return to neutral and Matt said it might have been made wrong. He got the new one out to me and it works perfectly. Thanks Matt! Anyway, got the front chains on too and got to use it on Wednesday. We had about 11" of very heavy/wet snow that kept turning to ice in the auger. I had to clean it out about 5 times, but it worked great. I see what everyone means about how they work better if you fill the auger versus a few inches of snow. When I was going through the deeper stuff it threw the snow 50' and about 10' when I was going through only about 6". So the front tires and chains worked really good. Even with how the snow compacted immediately to ice I never slid and the tires always answered the steering wheel without any sliding. Also went and gave my brother his early Xmas present for his XI. I found this almost new 2 stage New Holland snow blower close to where I live and got a great deal. The previous owner has a GT20 and he decided that he didn't want to put it on and take it off every year at a cabin he goes a few times a year. He decided to use his Ford Jubilee with a front blade instead since it was a long dirt driveway in the Allegheny National Forest. Needless to say with my brothers long driveway in the Poconos he's happy having the blower versus the plow. Ran into two problems though. I ordered one of the 2" receiver hitch/quick-attach combos that are made by a guy in Williamsport, PA that are supposed to be compatible with all 3/4/5/xi tractors, but the axle bracket/quick-attach are 1" wider than the stock stuff so the rear support bar wouldn't work and I had to put back on the original stock bracket. No worries though as I'm just going to make my own out of angle iron using his as a template. The second problem is that while my brother was using it the chain got thrown. I figured it was just the tension so I went up before Thanksgiving dinner to fix it and get the driveway cleared. I adjusted the tension and gave it a try. The chain jumped off again. I gave it a closer look and the drive gear had backed off the shaft by about an inch and the key looked like it had moved forward. I dropped it off at the Toro dealer and they're gonna pull the gear, inspect everything, and drop it off at his place when it's finished. I pulled the snow blower and threw on the plow to get the driveway cleared for the feast. Aron
  15. I got them from RCPW/Sohars. The newer footrests are designed for the newer/thicker foot pads which I wanted because they provide better protection and I can take them off for cleaning. I did have to cut the right one where Matt's foot hydro pedal is so it would have proper clearance which surprisingly the older ones had. I'm guessing they used the same ones for both the hydro and manual models and changed that sometime after 92 to ones specific to hydro or manual. Also the newer footrests don't go up under the fender pan quite as high, maybe about an inch or so and they meet the rear fender pan at the edge instead of leaving the fender pan hanging out by about an inch as you can see below. Aron
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