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wheeledhorseman last won the day on April 27 2013

wheeledhorseman had the most liked content!

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About wheeledhorseman

  • Rank
    Dysfunctional 'D' family member
  • Birthday 11/19/1952

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    A-800 Ranger four speed (1974)
    B-111 six speed (1979) a future project
    C-100 eight speed (1977) with 42" SD deck and dozer / snow blade
    C-120 Auto (1975) with 42" RD deck and dozer / snow blade
    D-200 Auto (1977) with 3-point hitch and 42" RD deck
    D-200 Auto (1978) with 10 Cu. Ft. WH Dump Cart
    210-4 (1988) with 36" RD deck
    227-5 (1988) with 42" RD deck and rear pto grass/leaf collector
    216-5 (1985) general worker with tipping trailer and roller
    316-8 (1989) with 42" RD deck
    8-25 Rear Engine Rider (1994)
  • favoritemodel
    C & D series

Profile Information

  • Location
    Romsey, Hampshire, United Kingdom
  • Occupation
    Retired but busier than ever!
  • Interests
    I love collecting old things and restoring them to working order.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,268 profile views
  1. I've thought about a magnetic drain plug myself as an alternative but came to the conclusion that it would not be as effective due to the design of the WH-Sundstrand transaxle. To my mind the issue is that the main hydro filter is in the oil return to trans casing path and not the oil to pump pickup path hence the need for the mesh filter and magnet which filters the oil reasonably well (with the aid of the magnet) as oil on its way to the pump has to pass through. A mag drain plug would certainly attract stray iron bits to it over time but is less likely to prevent potentially disastrous bits being drawn into the pump on the fly. Just my thoughts - could be wrong. Andy
  2. Neat project coming along there, is that a chromed tow hook? Any more little tasters coming our way? Andy
  3. If you are thinking that Paul's puller arrangement looks like overkill I can say from personal experience with my D-200 it is not! If you use a puller with arms round the flange or a puller that bolts into the wheel nut threads on the flange you will either break the flange or strip out the threads. Yes, these hubs get stuck on that tight! The disc turning brake option mentioned earlier can be seen in this photo: Andy
  4. wheeledhorseman

    Another horse squeezes its way into my stable

    Thanks for the encouraging comments guys - it's a bit rustier than comes out in the photos but it is surface rust and nothing serious. It is a 'Baltic' by Bostrom. As you say a lot of these were the standard seat fitted to WHs sold in the UK during that period. I'm not sure if they were fitted at the Amnor factory as standard for Europe or whether Mountfield fitted them once they arrived here. The company still exists as KAB and they still make a very similar seat http://www.kabseating.co.uk/P2.html I suspect the mounting hole spacing is probably different now as I found this when using one of their other seats on my D-200. I've been continuing to work through the various little age-relates issues on the tractor as and when I have time and have now sorted the lack of having a brake that works. Not sure how others reline the brake band but after a bit of head scratching I did it like this.... Having cut a length of woven lining material (a bit over length) I heated it with a hot air gun till it became pliable and formed it roughly to shape by hand. Using a brake drum from a Sundstrand transmission I had on the shelf as a former and the lining secured to it with a hose clip, it was heated up, the clip tightened, and then allowed to cool down. The idea worked well but at each end the lining was not quite flat against the drum so the process was repeated with a second wider clip added. The result this time was pretty much perfect. The Sundstrand drum was ideal in that it was easy to heat up being hollow and having little mass but the brake drum from the manual transmission on the tractor would have done the same job. So the lining was trimmed to length and a slot filed into the outer edge so that it sat down over the rivet heads that secure the band to the L bracket at one end. I then applied some SIKAFLEX 221 (a black mastic like adhesive sealant) to the outer surface and put the brake band back onto the tractor. No its not a 'Redneck' parking brake - simply a way I thought up of applying pressure to the brake band overnight while the adhesive cured. Result......... Next day it was ready to adjust the brake and the brake now works perfectly making it a much less scary thing to ride. You only come to realize how much you use the brake on a WH when you haven't got one that works. Andy
  5. wheeledhorseman

    What models are more heavy duty than a workhorse 800?

    Don't forget the 'D' series. I love the D-200 so much I have two! Andy
  6. wheeledhorseman


    Good to have you aboard as a supporter. Andy
  7. wheeledhorseman

    18 automatic

    Welcome to RS - smart looking horse you've got yourself there. Quite a few of us 'D' owners on the forum and quite a knowledge base between us should you ever need it. Andy
  8. wheeledhorseman

    New restored Wheel Horse 702 in Catalonia

    Nice job. Well done!
  9. wheeledhorseman

    Honey, this is why....WE NEED MORE THAN ONE

    Great pics of horses as work. Thanks for sharing.
  10. wheeledhorseman

    I like gauges!

    The voltmeter and tacho are from the marine range of gauges made by Durite here in the UK. http://www.durite.co.uk/s/c/equipment-and-accessories/gauges/marine/tachometer-270-sweep-dial-12-24v I used the 0-4000 rpm model, its an electronic tacho with one of the leads designed for hooking up to an alternator tag on a marine engine. Tachos on cars these days use the same idea. There's an adjustment pot accessed from the back to tweak the displayed rpm to the source of pulses as not all alternators turn at the same speed relative to the crankshaft speed. It was a bit of a gamble that it could be adjusted to match the pulses produced by an Onan twin but it worked. I also tried it with a Kohler on one of my Cs and it could be adjusted to give a correct reading for that as well. There are details in a post I made back in 2014 here http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/46713-analogue-tachometer-for-onan-kohler/ The tacho was pricey compared with the cheap stuff from China and it seems difficult to get 270 degree analogue display anywhere these days so I went for the Durite solution. The post I made about making up the new dash panel for the 316 can be found here http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/46942-new-dashboard-for-the-316-8/ Hope this helps Andy
  11. wheeledhorseman

    Another horse squeezes its way into my stable

    I've learnt from previous experience that it's a good idea to work your way round a new purchase checking a few things over before giving it a major outing and, knowing from the test drive that the brake didn't work, a rear wheel had to come off. The fact that the wheel bolts looked well kind of not at all rusty seemed a good omen. Not so! I'm guessing they were this good looking because the wheel had possibly never been taken off in 45 years. The tyres are typically cracked original Carlisles. The threads protruding through the hub were well rusted and even after cleaning it was a struggle to get the bolts out with the ever present danger of shearing them off but patience won the day. The wheel then refused to be parted from the hub - another little challenge which penetrating fluid and some gentle tapping so as not to loosen the axle inside the transmission paid off. Getting on for an hour to get a rear wheel off may seem excessive but it's nothing compared with doing the same on a 200 series when the wheel has rusted onto the axle so be thankful I said (or something like that). Two things became apparent; there had been a significant oil leak at some point though the gunk was now well dried and hard, also no sign of any friction lining which presumably had become detached as a result of getting a good oiling. One bonus though was the fact that under the 'oil cake' the drum surface and the steel brake band had been perfectly preserved. The other side of the drum was completely full of dry grass and oil cake extending to the tranny casing itself. With everything cleaned up. the drum back on, and the tranny filled to the correct level I took the tractor for a bimble round the field expecting to find oil leaking but apparently not. Perhaps it only leaks when it gets hot so its a bit of a mystery. On the other side of the tractor the clutch idler pulley sounded a bit rough and having taken it off found it was stiff where some years of lack of use and drying out of the grease had taken its toll. Cleaned it, painted it. and got a bit of oil past the dust seal. With the oil worked in the pulley seemed good to go again. I may need to replace it but for now it will do and so far I've yet to replace an idler rejuvenated in this way. One thing not on the photo is all the black dried oil crud from an oil leak round the transmission drive pulley that I had to scrape off. As with the brake drum, taking the tractor for a run didn't produce any sign of an oil leak on this side either. The mystery deepens. It's my first encounter with a Raider and the rather Heath Robinson dipstick arrangement on the transmission case compared with the later C series tractors I have. One thing's for sure though, any build up of pressure in the case certainly won't get past that piece of industrial engineering! Could the answer to the historic oil leaks be down to this maybe? Another question for the experts - I have some woven brake lining strip to reline the brake band. Heating it up will make it more flexible but I'm not convinced it will form to the radius required. Should I cut some slots in it to aid forming it to shape? A final pic for now. Discovering a WH or even Toro sticker on a replacement part is par for the course but it appears that the idler pulley was replaced fairly early on in the tractor's life as it has a Mountfield label on it. Mountfield distributed WHs of both US and Belgian origin together with the spares for them in the UK during the 1970s. Andy
  12. wheeledhorseman

    I like gauges!

    I like gauges too - so a couple of years back I replaced the voltmeter and added a tacho to my 316-8. It meant fabbing a new dash panel but I think it was well worth the effort. Some say you don't need a tacho but I find it useful and...... I like the look. Andy
  13. wheeledhorseman

    Project "Why Not"

    That's so cool, another awesome project Ian. Been away from the forum for a while due to other commitments but hope to be making the odd post here or there again. Andy
  14. wheeledhorseman

    Another horse squeezes its way into my stable

    Good to be back Neil, still haven't got back to having the time that I had but hope to be making posts once again. BTW I still have those rear wheels on the shelf with your name on them. It certainly is, and complete with metal foil WH logo sticker. Not sure if this style was used in any of the US production but it was used on some models Amnor built in Belgium. I'm not keen on the overall design from a visual point of view - to my mind it's too kind of kiddie toy tractorish. Guess I'll keep it though as it is original. Andy