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About racer4

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    Poconos, PA
  1. racer4

    Help fast!!!!

    It should fit, I have several older attachments from C series tractors that fit my 314-8.
  2. racer4

    Kohler Command 14hp, white goo in dipstick tube

    Thanks guys, I figured it might be something like that. Hopefully I'll cook that stuff out tonight!!! Happy plowing!!
  3. Just checked the oil today on the 314-8 after blowing the snow we got last night and there was a thin layer of white goo on the inside of the dipstick tube. For a water cooled motor I know that means bad news, but for an air cooled what is it? Just condensate from the crankcase and cold temps? Should I worry? Just changed the oil before winter, engine has only 300 hrs on it. Big snow coming tomorrow!!! More seat time.
  4. I routed the chain exactly as it was and there is no binding or hitting anywhere. Sprockets were Toro parts. They wanted $64 for the chain, so I passed on that, maybe I'll have to get some from TSC.
  5. Just got done with a freshening of the snowblower which included two idler sprockets, one driveshaft bearing and one auger bearing after noticing the unit was getting very noisy during the last use. I put everything back together separately, auger first, no noise from that and it spins freely with no endplay. Driveshaft spins freely with no noise there either. Hooked the chain up and tensioned it to spec, but when the blower is running, it sounds like I've got gear-to-gear drive going on in there. All of the sprockets line up with each other and neither the auger or the driveshaft is bent. I can't figure it out. The idler sprockets were toast, so I figured the noise was coming from them. Chain was well oiled and doesn't seem worn, nor do the auger and drive sprockets. Its just as loud as it was before I did anything. Dad's JD blower is very quiet when running and the setup isn't all that different. I must be missing something here. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
  6. racer4

    Suitcase weights

    That weight system was made by Ber-Vac, a canadian company specializing in snow blowers and tractor accessories. Supposedly, the blower these weights were used to counter-balance weighed some 400 lbs. I bought a set last year and they still have the mfg tag on them. Awesome weight set!!!
  7. Yeah that's the part, the little pneumatic "shock". It was still functional so I kept it installed. Dad's old JD 110 never had a "shock" on it and I never could make that do wheelies!!! The wheel horse will pull the nose off the ground sometimes and I even have the front wheel weights on. Anyways, I didn't think that part would be a "must replace" item. Thanks How's the HD pulley holding up? My original lasted 225 hrs. Hoping for much more with this one.
  8. Don't know if anyone had posted anything about this. I needed a new drive belt idler pulley for my 314-8, so I looked it up on a website parts finder. Toro part number was 95-7668. Stens makes a heavy duty idler, which also came up in the parts look-up, with a much larger bearing p/n 280362 so I decided to try one. Had to remove the clutch piston thing, got a shorter bolt and turned it around so the nut was towards the frame, and reinstalled because the new pulley bearing hit on the nut for the clutch rod piston. Otherwise a simple upgrade and it should last longer than the original with the tiny bearing. :scratchead:
  9. racer4

    Slime in tires

    I love the stuff. Especially if you drive through thorns. I put it in the old 2 ply turf trac tires which were riddled with holes and plugs. When I changed to the 4 ply multi trac tires, I just wiped it out with a rag and gave the inside of the rim a quick rinse and good as new. Its not sticky and it rinses away with water pretty easily.
  10. Thanks Kevin, I know I don't need the clevis hitch itself, but I do have the under-seat pivot arm, cable and tube. I may be able to weld the hitch assembly to make it work, but it's not only wider, most of the round part of the hitch bar is thicker than what fits in attach matic bracket. Just a little bit on the ends of that bar is the right size. I'd just rather find the correct bracket and not destroy the originals in case someone has a use for these parts, which may be hard to find. Kevin, seems like the lift point for the tiller on that second pic is also different than mine. This one lifts an arm down on the hitch part, not the top of the cover. Should be an easy fab for that.
  11. OK, So this weekend, I picked up an early tiller from Bill J. in pottstown. He said it came off a 1057. What a nice guy with a nice stable of horses. I knew I'd have to do some modification to make it work. (probably should have asked him if he had the brackets and pulleys, but my wife and I were in a hurry and I forgot). I have looked through all the pics and posts here to get the basic idea of what needs to be done. If I am missing anything please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The first problem is getting it to fit the rear tach matic: Its almost 16 inches wide at the front mount as compared to the necessary 12 or so inches needed to fit the newer rear tachmatic. Sorry, bad pic but you can see the red 16" mark on the tape for reference. If someone has the correct hitch bracket with pulley and lift spring parts that are bolted to the front of the tiller, please let me know. Also, would the main tiller drive pulley be the same size diameter from the older ones to the newer? If not, that will be another item I'll need. Second, looks like getting the correct mid-mount pulleys, spring, and belt. These are the pulleys that it came with: If anyone wants to trade the above rear axle bracket and pulley bracket for one that will fit a 314-8 that would be awesome. Again, let me know. I already have the clevis hitch lift assembly so that shouldn't be a problem. I have been going over the parts list on toro just to see what's what and how its put together. I think I have the items figured out but probably am missing something. Thanks in advance. Just thought of it, I also need the outer left side bolt on tine too. This ones missing.
  12. racer4

    Wheelhorse Hitch

    Looks like it might carry more weight than ours would, shifting some of the weight from the bracket resting at the back of the trans case all to the bottom. Just wonder why they chose that setup??
  13. Yes, the end of it uncurled. I kind of figured the metal got weaker when I re-bent it but it never broke, it just uncoiled again. So I got a new one from the dealer. Thats the one that just failed. Better springs would have a stiffer wire that wouldn't uncoil, especially as little as that spring gets stretched when PTO is on. I 'm positive the spring is attached at the right points. I jarred the tractor pretty good coming over a shallow road culvert last summer, that's when it bent the first time. My mistake, I thought I had it low range 1st gear and was going to ease over the ditch. Well, it was in high range and when I let the clutch out, it hit pretty hard. It also broke one of the hood straps, so stuff definitely got moved around. When I put the electric lift on in the fall, I checked for any broken frame parts or bolts and found none. I re tightened all of the bolts on the whole thing and thought I had it all fixed. Guess not.
  14. racer4

    Where to get parts?

    Ebay is a great place to find odd or discontinued pieces. There are always guys on there who rip tractors apart and sell every piece separately, right down to the engine internals. Like it or not, almost every piece of many Wheel Horses have probably been sold through ebay. Craigs list is a also good place to find whole tractors and attachments. Good luck!!
  15. This is the third time in a year the curled end on the spring just uncurls. I've tried bending it back and it just bends again. A new spring didn't even last the winter. I may have jarred the tractor when using the plow this winter, would that cause it? When the spring bends, the pulley spins and wears out the PTO brake pad. I also noticed the gearshift dust boot is cracked already, have to order one of them too i guess. I also somehow lost the E-clip that holds the front Tachmatic lock bar in. Maybe I'm too hard on this thing. I'm trying to get the yard looking good this year. Waiting for some dirt to level out the back. Can't wait to use the grader blade again!! Just ordered the big Brinley tow behind roller to help smooth things out too. More seat time ya know!! I'll post some pics when I get going with the attachments. :omg: