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jebbear

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About jebbear

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/10/1954

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    856

Profile Information

  • Location
    McClellandtown, PA

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  1. A very Happy Birthday Eric! Didn't realize until now that besides we also have this day in common. Cheers! Have a Great One!!
  2. jebbear

    Happy Birthday Brian!

    Have a great day!!
  3. jebbear

    Happy Birthday Jeb!

    Thank-You everyone for all of the nice comments!
  4. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    Thanks for the input Sarge. I seriously thought about going that route but then considered that this setup has worked for about 52 years so if I can make it last another 52, then it will be the next guys problem! Thanks for the suggestion, I do agree with what you are saying though.
  5. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    That would be greatly appreciated! Thank-You! I have to run today, but let me know what would cover it and I'll be glad to forward to you.
  6. I'm with you there too Sarge. Sometimes these machines grow on you kind of like a beloved dog, that as much as you would like to, they just won't be around forever. I also hope that the young fellow that gave her a new home, appreciates what he is now responsible for and gives it the respect that it deserves.
  7. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    While I'm contemplating the pedal issue, I did finish up the wiring modifications with the fuse additions. The large fuse holder was a head scratcher trying to figure out a place to put it without interfering with other stuff, almost like putting the proverbial 10lbs of you know what into a 5lb bag! What I ended up doing was drilling and countersinking an all threaded stove bolt down through the pan that mounts the gas tank. This would accommodate a wing nut to go through the mounting hole of the fuse holder to facilitate easy removal if needed. This is where it got a little tricky so that the bolt head didn't stick up and and interfere with or rub on the bottom of the tank. I even rolled up some balls of putty and dry fit the tank squishing the putty several times to assure adequate clearance. The only place that it would fit was directly in the bend crease of the tank holder (but not on the seam of the tank itself), and couldn't move it rearward any more than where it is at. I then cut a small square of 1/4" thick hard rubber that I had laying around in my junk collection to act as a mount for the fuse holder. Here are a few pics of the setup and completed harness: The countersunk mounting bolt and rubber bumper prior to attaching the fuse holder (the 2 black marks are where the tank seam is and an area to avoid) ... Next the attached fuse holder with wingnut... ...and from the left side of the tractor. Note the floating in-line 20 amp fuse holder that was also added. I do plan on binding and lashing up some of these wires once I'm sure that I'm done with them, but for now it's kind of a bowl of spaghetti. And a couple more pics of just the general wiring inside of the dash panel and also the starter/generator with the regulator. I made up all new cables with marine heat shrink attached with exception of the yellow wire to the lighter (I didn't have any yellow wire in my stock ) but the existing was actually in pretty good shape anyway. ...And a few more after mounting the gas tank. So, after getting this far along, I just couldn't resist! I had to turn the key in order to make sure that I didn't have to tear it all down & start over, but more importantly to make sure that I kept all of the smoke confined inside of the system . I didn't gas it up yet (I'm still in the basement), but she cranks over just fine and have spark at the plug! So that pretty much sums up where I'm at to date. The major stuff that is still holding me hostage is the aforementioned painting issue of the rear rims (weather) and the attachment pedal issue. In case anyone is wondering why I don't have the air cleaner cover installed in any of the photos to date, that is a result of my own dumbness. Back when I was painting, I simply overlooked it (lost in the shuffle) and it didn't get painted! I'll just have to wait until I get the mower deck finished (haven't even started other than the tear-down) then give it a shot at that time. Same with the muffler (at least I was aware of this one), I need to sandblast it and want to give it a coat of manifold paint, which probably won't last too long, but at least it will look nice for a couple of days . Still kind of looking for some more opinions from you guys on whether or not you all think my primary wire to the coil is routed correctly. And one more thing that I am requesting a little help on is the CORRECT way to route and ATTACH my throttle linkage to the carburetor. I know for fact that the way I had it before I started this operation had been modified so many times that it did not seem correct. I planned to get into this a little deeper at a later date, but was kind of hoping some of you might have some detail photos of the setup from similar vintage tractors. Generally speaking, route over the muffler, under the muffler, location of clamps/brackets, approach angle to the carb, and the alignment and attachment to the little governor linkage wheel ? My manual just doesn't show any of this clear enough for me to decipher. I'll try to round up some photos of my "before" setup and maybe explain things a little better down the road of why I didn't like it the way it was. Just wanted to give you all a little "heads up", and most of all, thanks for putting up with me and all of my questions!
  8. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    That is also one of my concerns, if I would have attempted to mill it to accept a bearing. Thanks!
  9. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    I would agree, as long as I can find one that is not worn just as bad as mine.
  10. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    I wonder about using a piece of shim stock, and just forming a "tube" shape by wrapping around the 3/4" shaft on the frame then sliding the pedal on as is? It would have a joint of course where the ends butted together, but may pick up at least a little bit of the play. The wear in my pedal is approx 0.015" to 0.020", so using about a 0.005" to 0.008" thick stock would at least improve the play. Or would this just wear out way prematurely and be just a waste of time and effort? I see that this stuff is available in varying thicknesses in both bronze and brass, and wonder if either would work depending on availability?
  11. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    Thanks Sarge, I guess you verified my fear of weakening the thin wall portion of the casting. Not sure now how to approach this. I am wondering if this thing was bored incorrectly or if that is just the way they all are by design, since shifting the bore upward MAY affect how all of the linkages and the locking lever work together and throw something out of kilter. I have also already re-fabricated the locking lever at this point to eliminate the wear in that portion of the assembly.
  12. jebbear

    Ugly Seat Contest

    This was mine before I started the restore... No pan...just a plain ole lawn chair cushion!
  13. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    Another idea that I had was reducing the bearing size, in other words, McMaster Carr sells one that is made for a 5/8" bore with an OD of 13/16" instead of the 7/8" for the 3/4" bearing. I would then need to ream the bearing to 3/4" which would leave it thin but should take up the play. That would save me another 1/32" on the thin side of the pedal casting.
  14. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    I am really not sure. I guess I assumed cast iron but that's just a guess. I never did figure why they just didn't bore this in the center to begin with.
  15. jebbear

    My 856 Project

    OK, now for the next "dilemma of the day". Several months back when I was on my mission to install a bronze bearing everywhere on the tractor that had a lot of wear and slop in all of the moving parts, I neglected to place a couple of them in the attachment foot pedal on the right side of the tractor. It really wasn't an oversight, but I had concerns about reaming the pedal casting in order to accept my standard "go to" 3/4"ID x 7/8"OD bearings. So I decided at the time to forgo any modifications in the pedal and just live with the wear and play in the pedal. But after installing, I'm just not happy with how excessive this play is. This has always been a trouble spot, at least for me on this tractor, because all of the slop in this area seemed to affect belt/pulley alignment and resulted in a lot of destroyed belts driving the mower deck. I just don't feel comfortable leaving it the way it is. Here is a photo of the area in the casting of my concern: As you can see, the wall of the casting is currently only approx 0.120" thick. If I ream the hole to accept the standard 0.875" bearing, it leaves the wall thickness much thinner yet at approx 0.0575" remaining. So, I am looking for some insight and opinions on what you guys all think. If I do ream this out, will it dangerously weaken the wall of the casting to the point it may initiate a crack in the metal? Or is there enough material in the upper portion of the casting to adequately support the bearing and offset this loss without concern? I don't have access to a mill or any way to re-bore this off-center and take all of the material from the top and none from the bottom. Too bad I waited until everything was painted and awaiting assembly to come to this conclusion, but so be it. Earlier on in this thread, I posted numerous details on modifications with bearings and such, and you all have been extremely helpful in arriving at decisions. @Sarge, we also had a lot of discussion on bearings and machining and value your opinion in these matters. Thanks in advance to everyone for all of your input.
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