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JUSS10

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About JUSS10

  • Rank
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  • Birthday 10/01/1988

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    603, 753, 654, 854, 1054
  • favoritemodel
    1054

Profile Information

  • Location
    zeeland, MI

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  1. Fun topic! I've built a ton of my own PCBs that run an ATmega chip core (same as the arduino) with all surface mount components. By integrating the micro controller straight on the board, you can save a ton of space and don't have to attach a whole arduino uno or similar to it. There are also a lot of cheap board shops out there now too. I go through one that only charges $1.66 a square inch with free shipping and you get it in 2 weeks. Its just crazy! I'm working on the idea of a dash unit for some of my vintage motorcycles that will have speed, tach, signals and a few other things on a screen. GPS units are pretty cheap these days as well so you could just attach one of those to the micro if you were really concerned about speed. Takes out any moving components which would be nice.
  2. JUSS10

    Returned to stay!

    looks like half a T-Maxx haha Nice score!
  3. Impressive machine! My personal printer has about the same build volume but is definitely not a professional model. I actually got it from a local model shop that I do a lot of work through for my job. It was broke so I got it cheap. I redesigned the whole XY gantry and built a custom hot end for it. The one I showed in the photo up top is the one on my desk at work. I did manage to find my headlight inserts for my 300 series tractor. It might take me a while to model up as its actually a rather complicated geometry. Will post up something once I get to it. May also look over the other parts of the tractors and see if there is anything else I can print that isn't currently made by a vendor or available through toro. Justin
  4. Quite aware he has them, but when I have the tools and the means I'll try it myself! Also, I'm assuming Glen just makes molds of existing parts. I wanted to add the lock nut to mine so it will never work itself loose from vibration. Thus I had to redesign and print it. This part was printed in PLA as its nice for quick prints. I'll likely print another in ABS when I get the chance. No support material. I always try and design my prints to have no supports. This is primarily due to the fact that its a single extruder machine which means any support material is the same as the regular print material which makes supports more difficult to remove. Also, no supports mean less print time! Printer has a heated bed. It is enclosed but I haven't added an ambient heater yet. I plan to do that soon as that will greatly help with warping caused by uneven cooling of the parts. Justin
  5. Its not that exciting. Its really rather slow. That said next time I'm printing a set of these I'll take some video and post it up I can make a few sets if people are interested In theory its really simple. However, there is sort of a black magic to them to get a really great print. Different materials have different properties, even different colors of the same material can print drastically different. Knowing what is/isnt good for printing is also key as well as how to orientate and tweak the settings to get he best results for any given part takes a lot of practice and experience. There are at least 5-10 settings that I tweak for each print to get the best results. The other thing that is a huge disconnect is that unless you have the skills to model and design something in 3D cad, all you can really print is trinkets and random "junk" that you find online. I honestly think that's the biggest reason they aren't a household item yet. You essentially need that middle step between "I have an idea" and "I have a physical part in my hands" which is the ability to use a cad program. Then finally there are certain atributes about 3d printing that just isn't great. They are really only "strong" in 2 of the 3 axis'. When it a print fails its usually due to layer separation. Once again, you can avoid some of this with experience and designing a part that is specific to 3D printing that you may not design that way it it were injection molded. So is it difficult? Yes and No Well I thought I knew where my set was, I'll have to keep digging for them. I did find a set for the black hoods. I would think those are also no longer available?
  6. Like for the 300, 400, 500 series? I do ave a set sitting around that i could model up and try. Interesting thought...
  7. So while I was out mowing for the first time this year on the 314-A, I looked down and saw that the transmission belt activation lever was missing the little end pieces that make up a handle. I hopped off the tractor and started to look around in the grass. All I was able to find was half of one of the pieces. Looks like with time it just fatigued and cracked. Seeing how simple it was I got an idea. I am a designer/engineer by trade and do lots of model making and prototyping where I work. I looked at the part I quickly modeled it up in solidworks (3D cad software) and ran over to my 3D printer and knocked it out. I made it so one of the pieces can hold a lock nut so it should never work its self loose again. Attached are some photos of the printing process and final parts on the tractor. Everything is back to normal and it works great! I'm trying to think of other common parts I could model up and print as the old plastic starts to fail on these great machines! Justin
  8. JUSS10

    Jacking Point

    I always jack on the housing for the rear axle and do one side at a time. If its strong enough to take the direct impact of a plow blade on the front, I don't see any issue with jacking it up there.
  9. Thanks! Good to see some familiar "faces" again!
  10. essentially thinking about making a mini toro groundsmaster for yard duty. I have 13 maple trees and lots of variation of height in yard. I would like a zero turn but always loved the looks of the rear steer industrial mowers. If I could get my hands on a toro groundsmaster 52 I would, but they are hard to find and expensive. I have most of the parts laying around and a new barn and welder waiting to get some use this summer so I might give this a try.
  11. So long time since I've posted on here. I have a question regarding eaton hydros and the wheel horse transmissions they are bolted to. What exactly determines forward and backward speed on these? Is it the cam plate on the top that limits the speed in each direction? Is there any reason the transmission couldn't run the same speed, forward and reverse? Would it hurt the transmission to run in reverse more than forward (the way they are currently installed in the tractor) Long story short I have an idea for a project that I want to build but the transmission needs to be on the front and I would prefer to just run it "backwards" to go forwards so I can use the existing frame mounts and what not vs having to build a custom frame to turn the whole transmission around 180 degrees. Thanks! Justin
  12. JUSS10

    i have interest in the 64 to 65 1054 models

    There should be a build thread somewhere.... I'll have to do some looking. I honestly haven't been on the forum for over a year I bet. Edit: here it is
  13. JUSS10

    i have interest in the 64 to 65 1054 models

    There should be a build thread somewhere.... I'll have to do some looking. I honestly haven't been on the forum for over a year I bet.
  14. JUSS10

    What year was this I was using it 1966

    Craftsmanmowerfreak, 1964 704 also had a kohler with a pull start.
  15. JUSS10

    i have interest in the 64 to 65 1054 models

    Amazing machines but I'm probably partial. I use my a few times a week. I've used it to pull loaded down utility trailers, pushed snow with it for years, pull a 10" garden plow to turn over soil for a garden, pulled out shrubs, all sorts of things. I've been told the transmissions are prone to breaking but I've beat the tar out of mine and still haven't broke it. I am mowing with mine now instead of my 314-A because I just like the tractor better. I don't have a loader on it, but do have a bucket and started to collect parts to build a loader for it. Maybe one of these days. I would think you would want to upgrade the front spindles and use different wheels. I did this on mine already. I also built a CAT0 3 point hitch for mine that bolts right to the rear axle. I put a draw bar on to move trailers around. Works great.
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