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About tntatro

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    1-0120 8

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  1. tntatro

    Deck Size vs Engine Power

    Thanks for the responses. Both my 8 and 12 really needed maintenance when I got them and I pretty much beat on them all year. The 10hp is just an extra engine I picked up cheap that needs a rebore. I've rebuilt the transmissions and will be moving on to the engines next and may not beat on them as much after, or just beat on one and take it easy on the other. One is a 73 8hp no name and the other a 72 Raider 12. Both have seen better days but both still run and mow. I never cared much for mowing until I got an old Wheel Horse.
  2. Hello, is there a general recommendation for deck size verses horse power? I have 8hp, 10hp and 12hp engines and a friend of mine has a 16 hp, all k series engines. My friend is going to need a deck for next season for the 16hp k341 and wants a bigger deck than the 42" that it came with. My Raider 12 has a 48" from when I got it and does well but the engine smokes bad and I plan to rebuild it along with the 8 and 10. I'm hoping to get at least one rebuilt this winter and match it up with a deck that won't bee too much for the power but as big as it will handle. Another question, is it bad to mow in 3rd gear? I've been mowing in 3rd all year and at the beginning my 8 smoked on start up but would clear up after a while, now it smokes pretty bad to where I don't want to drive it. My 12 smoked pretty bad when I got it and the same goes for it, it needs a rebuild. It's way faster to mow in 3rd, just not sure if I'm beating on them too much.
  3. tntatro

    K341 carburetor tuning questions

    Okay, I'll have to check that. It had a hard time starting in cold weather but when the weather warmed up it starts right up so I never messed with the points. I've had the C160 about a year.
  4. tntatro

    K341 carburetor tuning questions

    It idles pretty well but does have a small amount of sputtering. My Raider 12 won't idle though. I have to start it at half throttle and after I'm done mowing if I put the throttle all the way down it will stall after a little while. I can't get it to stay running at anything less than about 1,900 rpm.
  5. tntatro

    K341 carburetor tuning questions

    Hello, I am fairly new at working on Wheel Horse tractors and am having minor issues with a C160 with a k341. It tends to bog a little when going uphill or mowing through thick grass. The engine seems good as it doesn't smoke or knock but it does have a small amount of gray smoke on startup. I compare it to my Raider 12 that smokes pretty bad and the Raider doesn't really bog at all through the same conditions. When I tuned the K301 I started at 2 turns on the high as the book said, then turned it open then closed and found the center which was about 2-1/4 turns. It ran strong like that but would back fire after a little while so I tuned it to 2-1/2, then it would bog a little, then tuned to 2-3/8 and got more backfire, then tuned it in between 2-1/2 and 2-3/8 and it runs strong and doesn't backfire. Seemed like not very much space between bogging and backfiring but it has been going good so far. I tried the same techniques with the k341 and it seemed like I could turn the screw a lot one way or the other without much change as far as driving it. I didn't get any backfiring but it always had a small amount of bogging. When trying to find the center between rich and lean it was really hard because the governor/throttle shaft is in the way and I had to turn so much both ways then it would stall and flood and be hard to start. It's currently tuned where the book said to start which is 3-1/2 turns on the high. It revs at about 3400rpm and idles at about 1200rpm. Any suggestions? The air filter is clean and I rebuilt the carburetor about a year ago along with adjusting the valves and replacing the fuel lines and fuel filter. It's been used a lot since then for mowing.
  6. I finally got my transmission together. I actually did two. One has new bearings and a new circular spring and the other I just put a limited slip and new seals. I haven't had a chance to run the one with new bearings and spring yet but the other does have much better traction than the regular 8 pinion but it still doesn't want to climb this one steep trail on the property where a root sticks out into the path. One tire will spin on the root while the other looks like it wants to spin but doesn't. Is this because the circular spring is worn out or is it likely that I'm pushing it beyond its limit? I tried in 1st and 2nd and it wouldn't climb but it did go up if I used 3rd and got some speed. I didn't think to try the low gears. The other transmission is on a mower at a different property so I can't drive up the same hill for comparison.
  7. I decided to replace all the bearings since there was one 1533 damaged and I could tell the difference after replacing it and comparing the new one with the other side. Most of the needle bearings that I removed seemed to be fine except maybe one or two sounded loose when I shook them. The bearings in the gear pictured seem to be the least likely to fail because they ride about even with the rest of the shaft. I may leave them but I'm not sure about the damage to the gear. I counted 17 cogs and 11 of them were crushed a little. The damage is just in the area where third gear sits. A new one is $165 so I don't think I'll go that direction but I may be able to find one on ebay or I have another 8 speed that I can take apart and swap all the best gears to this one.
  8. I finally got all the bearings to rebuild the 8 speed transmission. I managed to replace almost all the bearings but I have a couple questions about the last couple. This part pictured I believe is called the splined pinion gear. I noticed that some of the gears are crushed and I was also wondering how to get the bearings out. With all the other bearings I was able to drive them out with a socket but these two need to be pulled out the ends instead of being driven right through. 1 - Should this gear be replaced because of the damage? 2 - What is a good way to get the bearings out?
  9. I like the roll pin idea but drilling through the axle shaft must be tough. What size drill bit and roll pin?
  10. I managed to get a second 10 pinion differential with axle shafts but the shafts are a little rough. The picture with two shafts has a shaft from my 8 pinion on the left and the 10 pinion on the right. The picture is a bit blurry but the 10 pinion axle looks much more worn than the 8. When I put the clip on the end it feels really snug but I don't know how it would hold when in use. Any opinions on whether it should hold or not? The other pictures are showing how much space the ends of the differentials have with the shaft through them. All four have a lot of space like that. The 8 pinion has a much closer fit. Anyone know if that is normal for the 10 pinions or is that excessive wear? I could put a repair sleeve in them but that would be kind of expensive. It almost seems like they are suppose to be like that. After seeing how tight the new bearing is compared to the opposite side I've decided to replace all the bearings on this one. With the pinion gears all chipped up it makes me think this transmission was beat on a bit. I'm hoping to get it right the first time.
  11. I managed to get the races off by using an oil seal installer. The end plates slide nicely into the new 1533 bearing that I just installed but are a little sloppy in the old one on the other side. When I put an axle through the end plates there is a lot of play compared to the 8 pinion plates though. There is maybe a 1/16" gap compared to maybe a 1/32" gap on the 8 pinion plates. I'll have to check with calipers later to see how much.
  12. I did find the missing parts elsewhere but it cost me. Actually, I ended up buying the gears off the same guy that sold me the differential that they went in. It was way cheaper than buying new ones. Then just bought a new spring. I don't think there is any bearing on the end caps, just the race that needs to be removed.
  13. I got the new 1533 bearing in today. It was fairly easy to remove the old one and replace it. I hastily bought a 10 pinion differential off eBay before noticing that it was missing the axle gears and cylindrical spring. I guess that was why it was priced low. I did find some good used gears and a new spring. The differential was off a GT-14 and it has some type of collar on the end caps. I have some questions about the differential: 1 - Do the collars come off the end caps and if so, what is a good way to remove them? 2 - Is it okay to use the 8 pinion axle shafts? They are both 11-5/8" and I think the 10 pinion shafts are supposed to be 11-1/4" and 12". I think that it would offset the wheels 3/8" one way.
  14. I think I just found a 10 pinion differential in good condition so I may not need them. Thanks for the offer.
  15. I just figured it out, thanks.