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TN Dave

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About TN Dave

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Harrison, TN

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  1. A visit to one auto parts store and a hardware store got me everything I need. Thanks again for all of your help.
  2. Your comments are right on-target. I won't mention the name of the two chain stores for tools I went to for this, but they were both pretty much useless in terms of advice and assistance. Buyer beware for sure. One of them sold me an inexpensive conversion kit that will convert the outflow valve at the tank from 1/4" to 3/8", but didn't have the conversion to 1/2" or the right coupler for 1/2". Thanks for the ideas in your note. I will definitely check the nearby auto-parts stores. I hadn't thought of that. I also looked into local outfits that specialize in pneumatic tools for industrial uses and found one fairly close by. I'm sure they know a lot more than the consumer chains. I kind of expected them to say that they only sell to businesses, but they were nice and said that they will also sell to know-nothing-knuckleheads like me (my term, not theirs). They said just to drop by their parts desk. Just need to make time for that now. Thanks again. I appreciate your advice and assistance.
  3. Sarge: Thank you for this advice. I appreciate it. I think I need a better pneumatic parts supply. The shop where I bought the 1/2" hose, 1/2" drive sockets, and 1/2" drive impact wrench didn't have 1/2" couplers or a conversion kit to convert the compressor's outflow from 1/4" to 1/2". They only had a conversion kit for 1/4" to 3/8". I hoped to be able to find a conversion kit for the compressor outflow, but so far, no luck. I think I need to go to a professional shop to find the right components and make sure I have all the right stuff. There are a few in the area. In the meantime, I bought a breaker bar, which did the trick, but I'd really like to get the parts I need to make the impact wrench. I'm just a glutton for punishment, I guess. Thanks again.
  4. I realize now that the air outlet at the tank is 1/4 inch. If I use a 1/2 inch hose via an adapter, do you think that will that deliver the air flow needed? It is a 2 HP, 8 gallon compression, and is rated for 4.2 CFM at 90 PSI, which seems sufficient for the 1/2' drive impact wrench guns I've seen. Thanks.
  5. TN Dave

    3. Parts Suppliers

    Thank you !
  6. Thanks to all who helped with this. I really appreciate the advice and list of parts suppliers. Am off to Northern Tool tomorrow to get a pneumatic impact wrench, large sockets for it, and some 'Never Seize'. Possibly also might splurge on a belt grinder to get the right angle on my blades once I get them off. Thanks!
  7. I've just done some research to buy a pneumatic impact wrench. I think I can get a decent one for $75-$100 or so. Any suggestions on where to buy parts for this old Wheel Horse 310-8? I've searched on line, and Google keeps bringing me to Troy Bilt. Do they own the Wheel Horse brand or something? Thanks.
  8. Hi everyone: Many thanks for all of this great advice. I really appreciate it. It looks like my next step should be to figure out how to get the mower deck off. If you have any hints on that, please let me know. If you know of a manual or have instructions for removing the deck, would you let me know where I can download them or forward them when you have a moment, please? I also need larger 6-point sockets and an impact wrench, but it is always fun to go to Northern Tool or Harbor Freight for that kind of stuff. (Convincing my wife I need to buy another tool is another question. I'm not asking for marital advice...though I may need some.) Thanks again!
  9. Hi all: The people on this forum have been helpful in the recent past, so I'm hoping that those of you who are more mechanically-inclined than I am (...which is 100% of you, I'm sure...) might be able to point me in the right direction again. My apologies is this is too basic, but I have an old 310-8. It has 3 mower blades, and I can't get any of them off to sharpen them. If I use a floor jack and a couple of jack stands, I can lay down on the garage floor but can barely get a 3/8 inch electric drill with a sharpening stone attachment properly angled against the blades. I've also put the front wheels up on plastic ramps (Rhino Ramps) which I use for changing the oil on my car, with pretty much the same result. These work OK for touching up the blades just a bit, but the blades really need a good sharpening, so I am trying to get them off in order to use a bench grinder. I have sprayed a pretty fair amount of penetrating oil on the bolt heads above and below the point where they go thru the blades. I have used the longest pipe wrench I have (18 inch). Frankly, I'm a bit concerned that the amount of leverage I'm using might pull the mower off its jack stands. In any event, the blades are still very firmly attached. Any suggestions on how to get the blades off will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
  10. OK...I fixed it, but oddly, it seemed to simply be accumulated grass clippings that were gumming up the works. I had taken it apart as far as I could and was about to give up when I noticed the old grass clippings. A few minutes with the air compressor hose did the trick. Go figure....
  11. Hi again: I tried twisting the top of the large lever on the left side of the machine, but it didn't move. I don't think it is adjustable. I used a largest pipe wrench I have, but it simply twisted the plastic handle on the end. There doesn't appear to be an adjustable knob underneath it. If anyone has any other thoughts, I'd surely appreciate hearing them. I think the next step is to see if the deck mechanism is binding somehow underneath the machine, just above the deck. Thanks.
  12. Many thanks to the three people who took time out of their busy days to answer my question, gwest_ca-(File Mod), Jerry77, and jay bee. I will try out these fixes as soon as I get a few mintes to do so. Thanks!
  13. Hi all: I have on old but serviceable 310-8 with a 10 horse Koehler. I put the mower deck into the lower position yesterday for a small part of the yard to create a sculpted effect. To do this, I pressed the button on the top of the lever on the left side of the mower and let it go forward. I have done this many times before without any problem. I can always pull the lever back up and raise the deck to the higher position I need for most of the yard. However, this time the lever to raise & lower the mower deck decided to lock up. It won't move out of the lower position so I can now only mow in the lower position, which is not good for most of my yard. I can push on the button on the top of the lever and pull the lever up a bit, but it won't raise the mower deck. Just won't budge. I disassembled a couple of pieces of sheet metal to get a look into the insides. (I removed the left foot support, the vertical panel above it, and the "control panel" that houses the ignition switch, gauges, etc.) The linkage underneath seems fine. So, the source of the problem appears to be with the mechanism connected to the button on the top of the lever and/or its associated parts internal to the lever. My request for help is: What do I take apart next to get at this mechanism? The level is mounted on a vertical plate on the left side and appears to be a single piece. That is, I think I can take off the lever assembly but I can't see anyway to get inside it. Any assistance or advice on how to proceed will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.