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giantsean

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About giantsean

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    D200

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  • Location
    Southern CT

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  1. giantsean

    Kohler 532 timing and other problems (maybe!)

    Get 'er done Sarge. This thing's got nowhere to go anytime soon... as long as my wife doesn't need the space
  2. giantsean

    Kohler 532 timing and other problems (maybe!)

    Thanks and yeah all the tins are off in fact, starting last year when it first started overheating (even before it stopped firing up). I do have to do the carb anyway and already have the kit... I really should have just done it when I had it all apart but I was too excited to see if it would start lol. Despite it's issues, mine does also fire right up with just a couple of cranks, so it can't be all bad. When you say do the static method, do you mean hooking up a test light and turning by hand and tweaking until you hit the marks? This seems easy if not quick, but what I don't get is what those marks are supposed to exactly mean. If you are supposed to time it w/ engine running, wouldn't the governor be advancing the spark based on RPM, or does that only kick in when it's under load? Finally, do you have any experience w/ the electronic ignition kits? I wish these K's could move to a pointless ignition but I think all they make is a low voltage conversion kit so you are not sending 2a through the points. Reminds me of my old VW Rabbit where they'd send massive amperage through a taillight and wonder why they had problems with bulbs lol.
  3. giantsean

    Kohler 532 timing and other problems (maybe!)

    Thanks as always Sarge. The only comment I'll make about the manual is that I may have described the process with my couple sentences in more detail than the manual does :P. It's THAT simple (hook up light, turn governor, tighten, rock on). I suspect on a 40 year engine the devil will be in the details, and it's along those lines I'm hoping to get any advice. Your initial stuff above seems to align with what I'm saying if dialing it all in is indeed that much of a dance. One more thing I'll add about the detonation. Granted it's been a bit warm especially in my garage but not like shoe melting hot. When this thing runs it gets hot FAST and starts steaming a few minutes in. I know that can be a variety of things, just so little time to really dig. I suspect I may have to go all in on this beast at some point, but I do think it's worth it.
  4. Hey All, Posting in Engines as it seemed the most logical place. I have a D-200 with an original K532S. Some may recall the tale of my exploding governor leading to a no-spark / no-start condition. Happy to say that I have changed the oil, swapped in a used replacement governor snagged off Ebay, and she fires right up! Unfortunately, I am having a bear of a time getting the timing nice nice, and yes, I have RTFM (read the manual :)). I have a cheapo advance timing light from Harbor Freight which should still be up to the task, but rotating the governor through it's range of motion, at best I can get the D/C mark (not the SP mark which I think it should be) to come up. I also believe the points are supposed to open at or around DC and close at S, but that's not happening either. In addition, the points gap is not the requisite .020 but more like .012. The replacement governor is blue so I assume it came off a Ford, but I would imagine that is too narrow for any K532. The challenge I am having is there's a little too much to adjust perfectly. Should I start with the governor position? Points open/shut position? If I rotate the governor will that change the spot where they open/close, or will it just change the advance? Finally, it says hit the timing light when it's running at 1200rpm or higher... but it seems revving up changes the mark, and maybe it's because I need to turn the advance dial on my light... but there's no way to know what the advance is supposed to be. At any rate, it runs strong no matter how I have it adjusted... maybe it wouldn't be as happy under load but I can't test that either... with no tie rods it would be a short trip Additionally, I am still having problems with detonation after shutdown, sometimes even after idling low. When it does pop, it sends a little wisp of smoke from the top of each cylinder at the head gasket, with a little bit of weepage. Cranking compression is ok but I don't have a leakdown tester to see if it holds. Probably new head gaskets are in the cards but I want to solve the root cause first. I have read a lot and sadly it might be a lot of things: - timing off - points gap too narrow - bad coil (need to test for weak spark when hot) - carb needs rebuild - something worse I am hoping getting the timing right will make everything more clear so I will focus on that first (while hoping I don't blow it up during testing lol). Anyway, that's where I'm at, and I would sure appreciate any further advice or ideas from those who know what they heck they are doing with these things As always, Thanks!!!
  5. giantsean

    Aftermarket gaskets from "the Bay"

    So ultimately I ended up buying some gasket material from Amazon, mostly because it will get her in two days, but also because when looking at the picture closely, the stuff looks more papery and less "gaskety" than the OEM's I've seen. For what it's worth the head and exhaust gaskets look the same as OEM. I could be way wrong but since I really only need one at the moment it's easy enough to make it... I'll probably give these a try at some point once it's time to skin this pig proper
  6. giantsean

    Aftermarket gaskets from "the Bay"

    Great info... thanks fellas! I shall report my findings.
  7. giantsean

    Aftermarket gaskets from "the Bay"

    Hi All, I was on one of the parts sites checking out what gaskets were left for a K-532 (turns out, quite a few). Not sure if THEY were even all OEM but figure $5-ish bucks for one. Then I stumbled across an entire 25-30 piece full engine set (head, exhaust, odds and ends) for something in the neighborhood of $20 on the world's favorite e-auction site. I have no doubt it's a made in China set of typical fine Asian quality but it's a bunch of paper gaskets... not airplane parts. I would probably choose OEM for something like a head gasket, but for odds and ends either low pressure or no/low fluid situations, has anyone tried a set of these and have any stories to share? thx!
  8. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    Yep... and ironically after dumping out all the mangled guts, the points pushrod is very clearly and visibly working . I even pulled out the dial indicator and found .0005 movement at best, so pulling it off was the next obvious step. It does make some sense now: - Last fall - Engine under load, hear loud pop/bang, engine stumbles but keeps running at a lower RPM. I HAD been working it pretty hard. - Overheating, smokeshow, hard starting. Limp it back to garage - One more test start before winter - pass - Jump to winter and I try to move it.. will not start at all - for a while it seems like it wants to (one or two detonations) - Test a couple months later, results as posted in this thread I am guessing what happened is the bang was the unit shredding, the rest from loss of advance. The variable start from crud jamming up the mechanism, perhaps getting worse over time due to settling, until the pushrod would no longer actuate. I will change the oil (hopefully my testing did not distribute too many metal particles) and rebuild the carb anyway, but for now it seems the mystery is solved. I sourced a used governor from the Bay for 75 bucks, and I will keep whatever parts of mine survived for later. Might be worth picking up one more spare just in case, and a new set of points to boot. Sincere thanks for everyone's help! On my way to becoming the K-series governor guru!
  9. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    I don't know about you guys.. but I am beginning to suspect that perhaps this governor assembly might not be operating within design specification. I've been wrong before though...
  10. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    Took some of the shrouds off, re-painted timing marks, spun-o-rama to watch and listen to what is going on. The points rod still does not move a hair, though I swear I feel a nudge and hear some faint noise inside, now that I know where to watch and listen. I am pretty convinced that all the weirdness I experienced last fall boils down to this. From the mystery noise to the performance drop to the smokeshow (maybe one or more cylinders were just not firing?). Anyway, from what I have found, governor parts are nigh impossible to find new. Have seen some for sale on the Bay of E for 80-100. Anyone thing at this point that buying one would be a bad idea? I have no idea what to expect but I see there is a lot going on in these units - springs, weights, counterweights, to deal with advance. Maybe something is stuck/gummy or maybe it's broke. Worst case I could resell the spare I guess. Now has anyone ever taken one apart?
  11. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    Thanks Sarge and no doubt... I fully intend to get it running. I'm just worried about finding parts I do in fact have the manual and found sections on ignition, setting points. Have been struggling to find a lot of detail about the inner workings of the governor save for a large diagram of the externals. Edit - read from the end and got back to the original section. Not a ton about the rod itself but I found the timing procedure. One more question - even if it is off on timing, would the cam hit the rod at some point in a complete turn? Or do multiple things need to line up for this to work right?
  12. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    So went out w/ a test light, found 12v at the red wire on the points with key in start (which I actually thought was the opposite of what's supposed to happen but I guess it's the ungrounding that breaks the field and let's go the spark). I still cannot get it to flash but I may have been probing the wrong place (tried the contact on the ground side). Still appears that rod is not moving at all. I took off the points and cranked and looked and felt with my finger and to the extent the human body can see/feel a movement of 1/50th of an inch, at least this body can see or feel no evidence of this little guy moving at all. If I let go of it it will eventually pop in and out but that's just because it has no resistance and the engine is moving. I took off the little plug on the governor to see if the gear was turning, and it is. So I'm stumped... could the cam have worn down to nothing? Or broken or fallen off? Addendum - went out and put it all back together. I can see now how the points closing breaks the current to the red wire and so retargeted my probe. Nevertheless, to get a light I had to manually open the points myself. Cranking the engine does not affect it. Grabbed a magnifying glass for good measure to ensure thing does not move, and it does not. Coil also got very warm for what amounted to very little on time but maybe that's to be expected. The pushrod, which by all accounts should slide right out, does slide but stops... so perhaps it's mushroomed or just stuck. It does bottom out when you push it all the way in so you'd figure it would be moving, making me wonder what's going on w/ that cam.
  13. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    Not anymore I'd better take another look. there is a spark (on the points themselves) when I manually close and open - if I put a meter from the red wire to the condenser and ground, then crank, should I see a fluctuation? Sorry for the stupid question I've done some small engine work but haven't dug into ignitions too much.
  14. giantsean

    D200 points rod issue

    Hi All, Spring has almost sprung here in the CT and I'm looking to revive my problematic D-200. Among other issues, one major one is that I have not been able to get it to start since I parked it. Decided to give it a go today and discovered she ain't giving no spark. Went looking and ended up w/ taking off the points cover and noticing that the rod that actuates the points is not actually moving. Starter cranks, flywheel turns (I hope - if it's attached to the hydro they are both turning). From my limited knowledge of the big K's, a cam on the governor drives the rod. Before I go pulling stuff apart, just wanted to get some ideas on what else I might look for / test / try first. Side question - was having all sorts of smoking / overheating and other general noisy and unpleasant stuff happening while working it hard last fall (but at least it started). Could this problem be a contributor to any of that or is it more an all or nothing proposition? Worst case if it's the governor, are they available anymore? Thx for any advice!
  15. giantsean

    Did I blow up my K532?

    Fixed that for ya I was going to label the others but I lost the updated diagram when I saved the old one over it, causing me to do this twice (though the 2nd looks much nicer lol) and sapping my will to continue. If you think it will be a popular mod is it worth it's own thread? Or maybe if there is a document repository on the site other than manuals?
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