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About scubaduderon

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  1. I thought it was Wheelhorseman1000? (Lowell). Anyway I sent him an email about it and he didn't reply, so I thought you guys might know. Is there a new snow blade that fits the 417A and if so where can I get it? Thank you, Ron Gubbins
  2. Thanks you all for your input. I wen't with the High Milage Oil and see no problem. Some time ago I added a ZDDP to the engine oil too. Thanks again, Ron
  3. OK, put the High Milage oil in. Seems like it's a lot smoother than before. This tractor is new to me, and I'm not sure how many hours were on the old oil, but I'd say that Mobile One works pretty good! Thanks again, Ron
  4. OK then, high milage it is! Thank you! Ron
  5. Wouldn't you know it? I just eyeballed the mobile one 10-30 as I was about to pour it into my empty Eaton 1100 hydrostatic transmission and saw "High Milage".... I accidently purchased the high milage version of Mobile One. Do you guys think this will harm the hydrostat, or should I just use it? I looked into the difference and folks seem to think that it has a higher detergent content and also has "seal conditioners". Should I just forget about it for the night and go in the morning for some regular Mobile One? Thanks, Ron I did pour a small bit into the oil filter. If you think this is a problem I'll take it off and pour it out... Thanks again, Ron
  6. OK, for the trans I found a nice black colored filter that should work. It is a Stens 120-265, it is made in the USA and filters down to 16 microns. I guess for oil I'll use Mobil One 10w30 for the hydro oil. I can get that anywhere. I'm looking at the Operators Manual and not finding any reference as to what the gas filter and air filter are. I guess I'll hunt around here for a bit. I bet there is an engine manual for the Kohler KT17 to download! Just ordered the bezel kit from wheelhorseman1000. Thank you! and thank you all for your help!
  7. Yes, I would like to follow the manual, but do not know what the previous owner used as far as oils go, or really anything else other than that this particular tractor seems to have no problems and no leaks. I really don't know if that matters!
  8. Heck, she paid for my account! I'm one of the lucky ones!
  9. Thanks for the tips! I need more to make my wife's standard description ring true. She says I don't do anything half assed, its always an ass and a half!
  10. I just found out that my wife has a paypal account, and am now an official member! Woo Hoo! Let the serious discussions begin! I've got a post about the care and feeding of my new horse. Please take a look and share the wisdom!
  11. I've been reading countless posts here and elsewhere on the care of the 417-A. I'm concentrating at this point on oils and hydrostatic oil and filter and I'm just all turned around. Mostly the turned around part is because a mechanic I work with insists that if I change the hydrostatic fluid it will never work the same. He means in a bad way. I have some experience with this phenomenon as well and wonder what you guys think? I once had a Honda CRX that used 30W oil in the manual transmission. I had it changed out at Jiffy Lube at around 60,000 miles, and within 1000 miles the trans went. Bad throwout bearings and some other internal damage. I did some research and talked to some trans guys and they all said the new oil "shocked" the system. They claimed that the old oil had varnished up a bit in places and when the new oil hit it, it dissolved and changed clearances and such, just enough to cause trans failure. My new to me Wheel Horse 417-A seems pristine and the hour meter reads 595 hours. It has no visible oil leaks anywhere, runs like a top and doesn't smoke or show any signs of failure I can see. The fellow I got it from had just bought it and decided he wanted to stick to collecting Sears Surburban Tractors. He claimed the fellow that sold the WH to him was meticulous with upkeep and only used the tractor during the winter to push snow with a blade. Other than that I know nothing about how often the fluids were changed or what was used. Interestingly enough, this tractor has a missing right headlight bezel and I found a post I think on here that talks about a missing right headlight bezel. I wonder if this is the same 417-A? Anyway, I plan to use her for mowing in the warm months and pushing snow during the winter. I live in north central Illinois, where the temp gets down so sub zero temps during the winter and 90's during the summer. I was wondering what you guys do? What would you change the engine oil to? Straight 30W? Rotella Diesel Synthetic 10W30? Any other thoughts? Would you change the trans oil and if so with what? Should a phased approach be used, where I slowly change over the fluid over a season? Should I use Rotella HD? What do you do? Also the lights don't work. It seems that the wires are broken off on the bulb side, so I'll be hunting for bulbs. It sure would be great to find that bezel too. I can get a new pair for $40. Is that what you would do? Are there any resources for parts that I should know about? Thanks again, and sorry if these questions are asked over and over. It's been a long time since I've had to care for a garden tractor, and have never owned a hydrostatic drive ever. Ron
  12. O.K. I'm signing up for a years membership. If I coulda used a credit card I'd already be a member! Thank you guys, this is a great group!
  13. Well, I bought her and successfully got her home! That was an adventure I'll relate later. She seems healthy too. Dug a couple of holes to test the trans. No problem. She starts up almost instantly from cold (low 50's) with just a tad of choke. The deck is very clean and the spindles are perfect because the deck was rarely used. He claimed maybe 5 or 6 uses. The fellow who originally owned the tractor used it mainly in the winter for pushing snow. He had a dedicated mower for his grass. The snow blade is in fair shape, but it is a little different than what I have seen online so far, One of the linkage parts seems home made. Maybe its looks different because of the hydraulic lift, I'm gonna have to research that. I'll put up some pics with my questions when I get settled into the new house. I'm gonna be asking lots more questions on how to get her back to tip top shape. I realize I'm gonna have to work on tightening up the linkages and what not. Also at least one of the hubcaps needs to be smoothed out and polished. Lots of little spots of rust starting to creep out too. I need to learn how to fix these rust spots and paint them. Also most of the decals have faded out, so It looks like about $90 for those. Is there a guide available here for guys who want to tune up the function or restore their 417-A's? If not their aught to be. The fellow I purchased her from is into Sears Suburban garden tractors from the 60's and 70's. Wow, are they nice! And talk about built like a tank! If any of you guys can help me get her back into tip top shape with tips on the linkages and other things I have mentioned I would really appreciate it! Thanks again for all your help so far. Hopefully I'll be able to return the favor one day! Smiling from gear to gear, Ron
  14. Hey, thanks everyone for all your help. I'm gonna try to post a pic of it. Looks to be in very good shape and the owner did not hesitate when I suggested a pull test for the tranny. It is coming with the original 42" deck and snow blade. What do you guys think a fair price is for what you see? Thanks you, Ron
  15. I am interested in an 86 417a I have seen listed. I am wondering how I should approach the seller. He has answered all my questions on the phone, and it seems like he is on the up and up, but I am cautious. How would you guys go about evaluating a used 417a? He claims it has in the low 500 hours range. Is there a way to test the transmission? He says the wheel chains broke one of the trans fan fins and he had it replaced. Should I be wary of this? How do I know if the engine is the correct one? From what I understand it is supposed to be a Kohler 14 hp series 2. How can I be sure that the engine is original engine or at least the correct replacement? I've read that at least one guy bought a WH and when he got it home found out that some of the things hanging off the engine (air filter, etc) were series 2, but the actual engine was a series 1! Are there other things to be wary of that I haven't mentioned that should be considered? Please help me out. The whole reason I want this unit is they are known for their rugged performance, and I just don't know how to go about this kind of evaluation. Plus now I get to hang out here and show pics etc! Thanks, Ron