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About Ballbuster

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Raider 12

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  • Location
    Anderson, Indiana
  1. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Someone on the forum here on Red Square provided this example for securing the hubs more firmly to the axles. I pulled both my hubs, tapped two small pilot holes at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, then drilled out the pilot holes with a 5/16" bit and tapped the holes with a 3/8-16 tap and screwed in some new 3/8" locks. Inserted two new 1/4"X1" woodruffs and reassembled onto the axle. Hopefully the hubs will remain in place on the axle now.
  2. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    I was wanting the hi/lo shift fork, Dave. Mine appears to be excessively worn allowing the gear to eat it. Check your e-mails. Thanks, Norm
  3. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Don't know if this is the proper place within the forum, but I thought I would share some of the other "improvements" I have made to Thumper too. Being an old tractor, his tie rods were loose (mine are too, though). After the trailer crash I had installed another set of tie rods on him from one of the tractor salvages I had bought to replace sheet metal. The spindles were still worn and loose on the wheels, though. About four years ago now, I was walking around a local metal salvage yard I frequent, just looking at what treasures there were to find... and I suddenly see a newer, complete Wheel Horse tractor, complete with a 42 inch deck, lying on its side. It had a hydro trans in it and was a late 70s model I believe, with the newer Kohler engine (versus the K301). It appeared to be in really good shape sheet metal wise. Original paint, decals, tires, rims and all. I remember my first thought was something like "what kind of idiot would dump an entire Wheel Horse tractor off at the metal junkyard?" I kept on walking around looking for other treasures. Then it occurred to me I had noticed the tractor had chrome Wheel Horse wheel covers on one side. I decided to see if it had a complete set (it was lying at a slight angle with one side partially buried in the mud). I went back over to it and scraped off the mud. It had a complete set of the WH chromed hub caps. Then I noticed it had what appeared to be a nearly perfect 42" side discharge deck, complete with the safety covers. Then I noted it had a mule drive too. Then I noted it had a solid looking front axle with the tie rods intact and the elevated front wheel was tight on the spindle. Long story short, I ended up grabbing the complete 42" deck, mule drive, front axle (with what appeared to be almost new tires) along with the tie rods and paid a grand total of $42 for them (salvage metal yard cost). I brought them all home, sprayed the mud off the deck and noted there was ZERO rust or holes in it (none), no dents and the spindles turned perfectly. The blades were even in excellent shape. I power spray cleaned the entire inside of the deck, then wire wheeled it, then coated the bare metal with three coats of the POR-15 gloss. I inspected the front axle, then looked at my old Raider and decided the axles were interchangeable too. So off came the old axle and tie rods from Thumper and on went the newer axle and tie rods. Now his steering is tight as well as his tie rods. I mounted the newer 42" deck (I have the attach-o-matic mounts) and the spindles just purred when I mowed with it. The rear hub caps fit my wheels but the fronts were for the smaller rims. That find was, and remains, my absolute best find I ever came across at my local metal yard. If Thumper could talk, he would probably agree. My second would be stumbling across a Kohler K301 that was a generator unit at the same place, but different day. It was obvious the generator had failed.... but the engine was almost pristine in appearance. I debated grabbing the entire thing, but (stupidly) decided not to because of the added weight of the generator would have probably pushed the total cost to $40-50 (yeah... I know). I ended up just scavenging the carb and fuel pump off of it. I thought about it as I drove home and decided I would go back the very next day and buy the whole damned thing. Of course, the very next morning as the place opened, it was gone by then. I still kick myself a little for that bone head decision.
  4. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Update: I purchased the shift fork from daveoman1966 today (thank you, Dave!). I ordered a new set of oil seals for the axles, brake and input shaft from the link provided above (by Achto) and picked up four more new hub set-bolts (for the axle hubs), two spare keys for the axles and five new 3/8" nyloc nuts for reassembling the diff. I will pull the drive belt shield and inspect the drive belt (which is about four years old as I recall) and check out my crankshaft key. I'm sure it probably wasn't, but when I first replaced the drive belt on him after I bought him, I could swear it was the original belt. Old, dried out and chunked up, but still pulling, barely. I pulled the rear tires and re-checked my axle hubs... and sure enough, they were a little lose. How loose? I could get the hub to move maybe a 1/16th of an inch on the right axle and the left axle a little less. Any movement at all is too much. I recalled that the key way on the right side hub had a little "wallowing" inside the key slot when I had reassembled the hubs and tires after I had put new oil seals in it a while back. I had crunched down on the hub set-bolt, but obviously there was too much play in the hub key way. I have ONE spare hub that I will replace that one with. I'm going to drill and tap a couple more holes in each of the hubs (probably at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions) in order to lock the hubs down tighter and hopefully keep them locked down. Honestly, pushing snow is about as brutal of work as I've subjected Thumper to. Nowadays, he occasionally pulls a 42" mower through the grass. Four years prior he mowed about two acres every week for several years. Now, I only I mow with him maybe three or four times a year in the last three or four years just to exercise him and run fresh fuel through the carb and, of course, just because I still enjoy operating the old pig. He still leaves the lawn looking like a golf course. The rest of his time.... he just spends sitting in my garage, drinking beers and listening to the radio. What a life. Other than that nasty episode of him flying through the air and crashing down to earth hard on his bonnet... he's led a pretty pampered life since he has been in my care for the last ten+ years. Thanks to everyone for the thoughts and ideas, gentlemen. Norm
  5. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Thanks much, stevasaurus. Good info! I was going straight, neither of my tires were spinning and the diff end plates are made of aluminum on him. I was checking my Wheel Horse Model listing awhile ago and re-checked my data plate and he is a '68, model #1-6231, not a '69 model. Just makes him a little more older and special to me. I will go ahead and purchase a new hi/lo yoke shaft and start checking woodruff keys on my shafts. Thanks much to yoose again. Norm.
  6. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Are these 10 to 8 pinion conversion kits (required gears) available for sale on the market today? The tranny is the only issue I currently have with Thumper. His K301 still runs strong and my 42" deck is in excellent condition. I blasted the inside of the mower deck a few years ago and then applied three coats of POR-5 hi-gloss. The POR-15 coating has held up very well. There is still a lot of life in the tractor if I can correct the tranny issue.
  7. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    pfrederi... you make an excellent point on the axle snap ring clearance, thanks. A second spring inside might cause or at least accelerate failure of the snap ring and then I'd have it apart on my bench again. I'll have to look at that closely (when I get out to the garage again). Thanks for the Service Bulletin #252 link too. Mucho gracious! Norm
  8. Ballbuster

    1969 Raider 12 axle slippage

    Thanks for all the quick replies. Axle keys and hubs are all good. I spent time pulling the hubs when I first bought him. Cleaned the axles, hubs and installed new keys in the axles. They are still good. Yes, that diagram appears to be same as the transmission I have disassembled. That "Wheel Horse Parts and More" link appears to be a great site for getting the parts you would need for rebuilding a transmission... a one stop shop. I'll save that link for the future. Thank you much for that link. I've installed new seals on all the tranny shafts before. I will probably install all new shaft seals again since I have it broken down and apart. As far as I can tell, all the bearings are in serviceable condition and don't warrant replacement or the costs associated with replacing them. I am very interested in hearing more about swapping to the 8 pinion tranny. I've read it was a more durable design (although, sitting here, I don't know the reason why). Possibly it doesn't have the large round spring to weaken and allow the spyder gears to flex? What Wheel Horse models had the 8 pinion tranny? Also, where do i find the Wheel Horse Service Bulletin #252? Those two axle bushings are not replaceable or are not available for purchase anywhere? I didn't see them in the tranny rebuild kit. My last thought being, IF that round spring weakening is why I am experiencing the axle slippage, why not get ahold of another round spring and insert it inside the original to re-inforce the tension and bring it back to life? I'm sure i would have to trim it a little to be able to compress it and insert inside the old one, but that thought came to me last night while I slept. Thank you all for your thoughts on my issue, gentlemen. Norm
  9. He's a 1969 Wheel Horse Raider 12 with the 8 speed (hi/lo) tranny and he will soon be 50 years old. I've owned him (I call him Thumper) for just over 10 years now and during that time he's been through hell with me. Lots of stories about him... like when the tongue of my trailer let loose while towing him on a county road and catapulted him ten feet into the air (I kid you not... I watched him disappear upwards out of view in my rear view mirror) and he landed about twenty feet back in a cornfield... landing on his top side. His sheet metal (hood, seat, seat pan, deck lift, console, steering wheel) were all crushed and mangled. His front tie rods were broken and fuel was pouring out the cap. I managed to get him righted back on his wheels (about herniated myself!) ... but I couldn't push him at all in the soft tilled soil. I decided to try to start him. I literally bumped his starter with the key and within a second he came to life purring like a kitten! I put him in reverse and got him out of the field and onto a trailer by kicking his front tires to steer him. Yeah... I love my old tractor. I've since scavenged sheet metal parts off of other WH tractors and totally rebuilt him to his former studliness, minus all the factory WH stickers. That was over eight years ago. My current issue with him is that when I'm plowing snow and get some serious weight in front of the blade he stops pushing and I can feel and see his rear tires just kind of "bumping" or lurching like the gears in the tranny are turning but axles are not quite meshing or are "popping" over each other. This happens in low gear particularly, but I also had it happen in 1st gear Hi range too. The one constant is putting a heavy load on him. I thought possibly the snap rings had come off one of the axle stubs. So I pulled the tranny, split it and took the diff apart... but I didn't see anything out of order. Both Snap rings were on the axle ends and in good shape, no chewed up splines and the gears were all in decent shape (for being almost 50 years old). What I did notice was there appeared to be a lot of axle play within the bushings on the aluminum diff halves and the axles. It occurred to me maybe this play was allowing the axles to jump spyder gears? Then I read a couple threads here on the round spring clamp that holds the spyder gears in place losing its "springiness" and possibly allowing excessive movement in the axle and spyder gears to occur. So, after all of the above, is there a source for new replacement bushings for both my rear axles... or are these even replaceable? They appear to be a press fit. I thought I might be able to heat the aluminum and press the old bushing out with my arbor press. However, if the replacement bushings aren't available, then I guess there is no need to even press the old ones out. Also, is there a source for purchasing a new circular spring that sits inside the spyder gears of the diff? If not, has anyone had any luck reheating them, spreading them a little then harding them again? My diff has ten total spyder gears in it. I think it is a 5071 tranny. Looking inside, I also noticed my hi/lo fork is beginning to be eaten by a gear so I guess I need to replace the hi/lo shift fork while I'm in there too, but frankly, I'm reluctant to buy a $55 part if the old boy's tranny is getting really near the end of the road. Any info and guidance you guys have on this issue is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read my post. Norm
  10. Thank you for the additional info, Garry. I did not intend to step on someone's thread. My apologies to all. Norm
  11. Hello. I'm a newbie here but have owned my beloved 1969 Raider 12 for right at nine years now. The reason I registered onto the Red Forum was my leaking axle seals. I lived with these leaky seals for a while but just brought Thumper back from my son's house, cleaned him all up and decided to attack the problem of the worn axle seals. I also need to replace the brake and input shaft (shaft driven by the engine?) seal. I knew removing these hubs can be difficult because I stripped a Raider 10 and 'raided" it for parts for Thumper a few years back. I actually broke one of the hubs from the Raider 10 and quickly understood how fragile they are. Well, pulling my first hub did not disappoint me. It was welded on (it seemed). Anyway, I took two 6" pieces of 1-1/12" by 1/4" angle iron and designed a puller to wrap around the axle and pull on the rear of the hub down against the axle. Ran it right off with my impact gun after much penetrating oil. So anyway, I immediately found the pdf the guys put together on bearings and seals #s for the 8 speed trannys (thanks much fellas!)... but then I read above about "bushings being worn" allowing excessive lateral movement of the axle. Well, I have the excess axle movement. How much of a pain are these bushings to replace? and where do you find these jewels? I've never rebuilt a tranny before. The closest I have ever come was replacing a shift fork in a Muncie 4 speed when I was a pup. How much of a pain is the rebuild and are their threads that cover this? Thank yoose. Norm