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Stigian last won the day on December 13 2014

Stigian had the most liked content!

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About Stigian

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  • Birthday 04/07/1972

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  • Location
    Hawkhurst, Kent, UK
  • Occupation
    Retired due to bad health
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    Wheel Horses of course : )

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  1. That looks like a fun buggy, might need a diving suit to keep dry while driving it though I think the standard Volvo Turbo engine produces about 160-ish Hp.. A few tweaks to the standard turbo will see that number rise to almost 200hp!!! If that's not enough I could always change the chip in the brain for something a bit more sporty and get even more power!!! (note to self.. Check life insurance before driving) Morning all, no progress has been made on Wheel-Vo at all in quite a while, all the parts have been carefully stashed away until I get MadTrax finished, but some thinking has been happening.. The nice slot mags that came from a CX trike a long long time ago were dug out to see how they looked.. Me rather likes To get the wheels to fit the Volvo axle I'm going to have to make a pair of wheel adaptors as the PCD on the wheels is a lot bigger than the Volvo PCD.. The trike the wheels came from was running (we think) an Escort rear axle using these adaptors to get the wheel to fit!!! The thought of putting any power through these is scary to say the least!! But as luck would have it I did make a start on a pair of wheel adaptors to fit these very wheels onto Project Why Not which saves some work although there is still plenty of lathe time needed to finish them.. When I start back on this project the first job is to tempoary widen/lengthen/make a bit taller all the panels until the "upscaling?" looks right and of course the engine and other bit's are covered by the bodywork.. Then I can start measuring for a chassis and try to work out how to get suspension under the thing.. No suspension (like Why Not) would be easier, but Why Not gave my body such a hammering that I don't think plonking a cushion on seat would be enough
  2. With the tank and frame stored out the way I had some space on the bench to fill up with parts that need cleaning and painting. A wire brush on a drill came in handy for cleaning off all the years of crud. It leaves a slightly bright but rough finish which should dull down with age. The transfer box. Front end. Rear end complete with mounting brackets A front suspension strut in need of a de-fur and clean up. A fury front hub.. And a cleaned up rear hub More wire brushing and painting.. At least the calipers clean up really well And that folks is about where I'm up to at the mo with this build.. Silly season has left me a bit skint but hopefully I can get some paint next week and start getting this beast of a machine back together
  3. The frame now looks like this with all welding finally done (have I said that before?), and a coat of red oxide in the right places.. Yes the bit I missed at the front has been done You may notice a few bit's of metal bolted to the frame.. The bit's of metal happen to be foot rests and anything that sticks through them or near them.. This is the O/S.. Now skinned with some strong steel mesh and given a squirt of the red stuff. The N/S foot rest thingy taking shape, it also has to hold a a small guard so your legs can't get pulled in by the rotating driveshaft.. Never fun! That should do the trick A few parts have been cleaned up and given a coat of the red stuff. This plate which bolts in the base of the frame to add some extra strength and protection has a lip welded on each end just to make sure it's strong enough for the job. A couple of captive nuts welded in the top tube of the frame.. Yes I did re-weld the top nut once this photo was taken. The captive nuts are for bolting this bracket on which also bolts to the top of the engine and is quite handy for holding up the coils The time had come to sort out the only bit of bodywork on MadTrax, the fuel tank.. At some point I welded on an extension to the back of the tank so it filled a gap left below the seat.. Of course this all now needed to be tidied up, so que the body body filler! Looking a bit rough here still.. Lots of fillering and sanding later I gave it a squirt of white primer as it's all I had that wasn't red oxide primer! A careful rub down with 800 grade wet 'n' dry later the tank was then hit with 3 heavy red oxide coats... Once the paint had fully hardened it was them flattened back with 1500 grade wet 'n' dry to get it ready for the top coats. Carefully plonked on the frame along with the seat to have a look... Me likes As it turned out the frame was the only "out of the way, nothing can get dropped on it" place I had to store the tank, so a sheet was put over to keep the dust at bay.. Yes I need to adjust the filler cap.
  4. I'm with you there Jim, I can't wait to get started on Wheel-Vo, just need to get this one done and sold first.. Afternoon all, long time no update! Progress has been rather slow, a lot slower than it should be, but life, illness and having a workshop full of wood tools (don't worry, I havn't given up on metal and turned to wood, most of the wood tools have gone now) has slowed things down. Life on MadTrax has been grind, weld, grind, weld, chop some metal off, weld new stuff in, grind, weld..... you get the idea. The frame has spent most of it's time on one side or the other and even upside down at times! I think in this photo I was adding strentghening to one of the transfer box mounts on the frame. A lot of my "earlier" welds on the frame were done before my Murex Mig welder had an overhaul and a new gun... And it showed on the welds! So a lot of time has been spent grinding out bad welds and replacing them with good welds like this. The pressed steel rear suspension uprights had the outside boxed in a long time ago, the inside has been done now.. Cleaned up with a touch of red oxide.. You may remember this orrible bit of Quadzilla frame that was at the front.. Well, it has been cut out and replaced with some nice tube to match the rest of the frame.. Looks way better A couple more views.. The engine guard has come in very handy when the frame is the right way up, it keeps the frame upright and makes it very easy to turn around on the bench.. On the next build I will try and fully weld up everything as I go along... I've had to do so much "finishing" welding and grinding it's quite soul destroying!
  5. Thanks Jim, also from across the pond With the test drive done, MadTrax needed to go back up on the bench for final welding.. Pictures of the stripdown would be boring, so have a fun video instead The stripdown should of taken a day at the most, but when everything is being video'd using my Camera Panning Jig Thingy, one day gets stretched to five! With the frame stripped down I could make a start on the final welding.. Well, almost The last couple of bit's of "made out of a cheap office desk" Quadzilla frame were bugging me.. The only problem was important bits such as front suspension lower mounts and front diff mounts are made out of one big plate that's welded to the Quadzilla frame.. And it's kinda important to make sure these mounts stay in the same place. So after a lot of bracing including something to hold the said plate in the right place, the lower front got the chop! Would you look at the rust in that! At some point during the build the bit of tube that these two bit's of desk are attached to was welded in not quite where it should of been.. In other words it looked pished but wasn't noticable until everything had been stripped from the frame! Cleaning the suspension plate of the left over bit's of rusty desk took a while, here's the plate bolted back on where it should be.. A bit of space to fill to connect everything back up again.. A lot of new thick wall tube has gone back in the front, but I still keep forgoting to take any photo's!
  6. A bit more work on the fuel tank was done, mostly welding up the odd hole I had missed. There's one! One or two on the underside as well. Not all the holes were that obvious, but putting a little compressed air into the tank made them easier to find.. Some bit's were just welded up to tidy them up. The exhaust system got the same treatment.. Find the holes and weld them up.. Finally the build had got to the "see if the drive system worked" point of things... Sooooo...... Which left only two things to do.. No 1.. Quickly give Madtrax some brakes.. Quickly as in back brakes only.. No 2... Get MadTrax off the bench and go for a test drive..
  7. I hope you all enjoyed that.. So where were we?? Oh yes, mounting the bearings that make up part of the drive system to the front. The original mounts were trimmed back until only the plates with captive nuts were left. Here they are bolted to the back of the bearings, ready to be tacked onto the frame. The random bit of angle is there to keep the tops in line. And without the bearings, just tacked on. A bit hard to see in the next two photo's, the bearing mounts now have extra strength with gussets added.. As ever not fully welded in these pic's. The front er... prop/drive/transfer shaft thingy has been welded up, I will be adding some extra rows of weld "just in case" and to tidy the shaft up a bit. The other end is fitted in place with a tight fitting roll pin. Oh, if your wondering the shaft does look like it's running true One last thing to do before the drive system is finished... Attach all the sprockets to the shafts.. Starting with the first and second in line there was a bit of lining up work to do.. Here's No 1. A close up and you can see the chain wants to bend to the right or forwards if you will. A bit of extra space between the chain and bearing holder would also be nice.. At the other end of that chain things were also a bit tight between the chain and bearing.. To solve the problem this part came back out for a bit of turning so the sprocket could be moved away from the bearing. Before welding the sprocket onto the shaft (no space for a roll pin) Rob started toasting all of it.. As both the sprocket and shaft thingy were very cold, both were heated up so the cold metal wouldn't just suck the heat out of the weld. The 90 degree drive thingy out.. A big moment as it means everything will come out of the frame.. Phew lol While the drive system was out I was able to do a bit of extra welding inside the frame, as some bit's were only tacked together at this point.. For some reason I forgot to take load of pic's of the next stages, so the photo's might seem a bit random.. This bearing holder needed a few mounts.. Two mounts this side.. Making the mounts for this inside was more interesting, I also had to make lower mounts for the big blue bearing.. No photo's of this done but you will see it in the next video. Chain half links and a sprocket turned up, this is part of the chain tensioner, so the sprocket was bored out to take a bearing each side. The transfer box idiot light switches were removed as the exhaust would melt them also they are not really needed. A couple of ally blanking plates blocked the holes back up. The finished chain tensioner thingy.. I think a 30mm bolt head is about the right size and in no way oversized I think now's the time to drop in Part 24 of the build videos..
  8. With the above done the time had come to mount the bearing that holds the shaft out of the transfer box up. Here it is roughly in place, the foot rest thingy still needs a little trimming at this point. The next four photo's were taken from video footage I took quite a while back, but they are handy for showing a part I had to make. The end of the shaft in the TB has splines which as we all know have a little play in them. To hold the shaft in exactly the righ place I make up this collar/sleave/thingy.. Which slides over the shaft and when flat against the plate hold the shaft in the right place. Skipping forward in time again the collar/sleave/thingy has been tacked in place. Once the bearing is mounted it will be removed. The old steel mesh was removed from the foot rest (I have some new mesh which matches the exhaust guard) and a nice strong bearing mounting plate welded on. Oh, the top tube has also been sliced off and welded back on with a nice strong steel bar inside for extra strength. A view from the back, I need to get a half link to shorten the chain and make a tensioner thingy. One thing I was worried about was how much the chain would stick through the footrest... As you can see it doesn't stick though at all.. Me happy with that And that is where I have got too, with a bit of luck I will have more time next week to spend at the workshop.. Quite a hard thing to photo if you don't have a clear different colour background! I have fitted the Quadzilla brake pedal, it was originally a flat plate that was bolted to all sorts of places to give it strength. As I couldn't do that I had to box it in. Here's the other side. Brake cylinder bolted on. The whole footrest/brake pedal mount thingy bolted back on. The rubber hose to the reservoir will sit just under the steel mesh when it's put back on. The pedal looks like it's lying almost flat, but it's in the right place if you pivot your foot on the end of the footrest which is where your feet naturally fall I will make a shield that uses the cylinder bolts to add so side protection to the cylinder.. Starting to look a bit busy with the exhaust and driveshaft plonked in place, the propshaft guard will take up a bit more space as well. Time wass still lacking at this point but I made a good start on the transfer box to from diff drive/prop shafts. I've not taken many photo's and even less video footage as I just wanted to get bit's done while I had the time. Holding a small shaft in place to measure up and work things out was a right pain until I quickly made this "bit of tube welded to box" which holds the shaft in the right place. The shaft to the front has been extended and made a slightly bigger diameter to fit the new UJ.. I've not welded the shaft up yet just in case any adjustment is needed. Here's one of the bearing brackets I made up.. Think it's going to need a lot of trimming now everything is a lot closer to the engine.. And for those of you that need a video fix, here's Part 23 of the build.
  9. Hi Jim, I think by solutions are based on what bit's/parts I have about the place, and working out a way of making them all work together.. Not sure that has helped? Well, long time no update. Sorry about that. It's been a very very busy summer that has not really given me any spare time to do anything including forums and even YouTube! So what has been happening at the workshop has been happening at a slow pace, I have been taking photo's and videoing the action, up until a week or so ago I've not had any time to do anything with the footage! Having got the 90 degree drive thing in the right place, it needed to be mounted strongly. The curved brackets were made by welding on end to the large bit of thick wall pipe and beating it around with a large hammer while it was still hot from welding.. I thought I had some photo's of that stage but I can't find them! As you can see it's all only tacked in place at the mo, it will only get fully welded once I know the transfer box etc can actually be removed from the frame! In theory they should, but you never 100% know for sure until you try.. A thrid mount will be going down to the frame but I couldn't work out exactlly where until I had made and mounted a strengthening plate that runs between the frame rails.. Of course I did not have a large enough thick enough bit of steel plate, so I had to make one.. Missing a few photo's here but I had to slice up a Wh 312-8 fuel tank/fender pan mount for the steel.. Clamped down ready for welding. Leaving a big enough gap to fill with weld. Weld won't stick to brass so a brass plate was clamped to the underside.. The black bit is ally which works as well, it just burns away a lot faster.. Welded, shaped and roughly put in place. To mount the plate I knocked up four of these captive nut brackets. In order to center punch the flat plate in the right place for dilling I drilled a hole though a spare bolt that was only just big enough to get my punch in.. It makes sure the punch mark is in the center of the capive nuts. Brackets tacked on. Lot's of chopping and welding later the plate now has some strengthening holes including one just below the odd shaped tube and bit of box 90 degree drive mount so a ratchet can be used to bolt it on.. A pic from the other side with the third tube mount tacked in place.
  10. Hey Mike, yep wider will be good, but not too wide as it has to look "right" and also my workshop doors are not that wide I couldn't of put it any better Dennis
  11. Thanks Mike, I'm just learning as I go along.. Every project has to have new challenges, for me it's what makes the builds so much fun.. Solving problems and learning new skills as I go along Well, morning/afternoon/evening all. It's been a while since I updated this as pulling apart a Volvo had been taking up most of my time.. Making bits on the lathe for MadTrax has taken a while as well.. Anyway.. A shaft was needed to slide over the splines on the 90 degree drive thingy to get the power out the same side as it need to go in the transfer box.. Here it is on the lathe. The shaft with the splined bit pushed tightly on the end.. Just needs welding up then back on the lathe for the final machining. That looks better, turned down to size ready for a bearing on the end.. But how to hold it in the right place for making bearing mountings as we all know splines always have a bit of play in them? This will do the job Slid over the shaft.. Once it is tack welded to the flat plate behind it will hold the shaft steady... I hope that makes sense? Now another fun bit.. A long long time was spent getting the 90 degree drive in exactly the right place.. No mean feat considering it had to be right in so many planes! To make sure it stayed put, the tempoary mountings (bit of angle) were temporarily tacked in place.. In the above photo you can see the square bit of plate bolted to the end of the 90 degree drive thingy... Well, it didn't stay square for long.. Ok, it's not perfectly round, but that's not a problem as you will see. But what to fit it in?? A bit of this 5 1/2 diameter pipe will do Yes I know it doesn't look that safe, but due to the weight of it, it wasn't going anywhere.. A 2 inch bit of pipe with both sides faced off on the lathe. The lip I cut on the round plate makes it a perfect fit in the bit of pipe. Plonked on to have a look.. A lot of welding later including 3 long runs inside and I don't think the plate and pipe will be parting company anytime soon As much as I would of liked to weld the big pipe into the frame to make it all very strong, I wouldn't be able to get the transfer box out if I did! So I have made up some curved mounts which you will see in the next update.. But while I was at it I thought it maight be an idea to bolt a few bits in place to check everything still fitted.. With a bit of trimming and a lot of strengthening the bearing block can be made to fit flush on to the n/s foot rest which keeps things neat and tidy, but the footrest will need a lot of extra strength added. I did at one point think I would have to widen the foot rests as the chain, sprocket and bearing would take up so much space.. But with the bearing mounted flush the chain and sprocket hardly poke through at all, also the 90 degree mount only takes an inch or so foot space away from a bit of the footrest that doen't feel a natural place to put your foot anyway.. So no widening needed, just a bit of extra mesh to go over the chain.. Oh, I do have some much better looking mesh to replace the rather tatty looking mesh thats fitted already, A view of the back.. The chain needs to lose a link and a half and there is plenty of space to put a chain tensioner. Good news with the o/s footrest as well.. The drive shaft that goes to the front now takes up so little space (much closer to the engine etc) that all I need to do is put a cover over it so it doesn't try and grab my boot laces as it spins.. Plenty of space to mount the barke pedal as well And that is where I have got to on this build as of yesterday.... We shall see what progress Thurs/Friday brings as I want to spend next Mon/Tuesday having a play with Project Wheel-Vo
  12. To keep Nigel happy, here's a pic of him actually driving the forklift as the engine was moved from a pallet to a four wheel'd trolly thingy. Though I think the forklift fumes may of gone to his head a bit With the pallet out the way we could plonk parts in more or less the right place.. For the comedy value the wheels were put where they would be on a standard WH... A bit narrow me thinks I like this view, with the wonky wheels and panels it kinda looks like a wacky cartoon I'm trying to be good and get MadTrax finished before I start on this build, but you just know I have to have a fiddle and make a start even if it's only getting everything in the right place so I can take some measurements.. A lot to work out first before I can even think about making a chassis! And to finish this update, have another video.. Wheel-Vo part 2. Sorry about the rubbish sound quality in this video..
  13. It's been a very busy and heavy few weeks, but when needs must.. The Volvo engine bay now looks like this.. Engine out.. A big thank you to Rob (far right) who has put a lot of time in over the past 7+ days to help me get this stage done. A thank you to Matt (far left) who did the very careful forklift driving to pull the engine and trans out.. And a thank you to Nigel (middle) for offering advice, getting in the way sometimes, and for sitting on the forklift to make it look like he did the driving Back in the workshop with a few parts plonked in place.. Only roughly plonked as the pallet is getting in the way and the engine is leaning to one side.... But you get the idea To make the engine run a few wires are needed.... Quite a few as it happens.. I need the complete loom from the engine bay back to the front doors.. Which looked like this once the dash had come out.. The fuse and relay box! I won't be needing all of them thankfully!. Why so many wires? Well, being a "modern"-ish car I need one of these brains to run the fuel injection system.. And one of these which is engine management.. I've not opened it up yet to check, I have a feeling it's one of the ECU's that can be "chipped" to get the engine producing the power it should be rather than the "tamed back" from the factory as it is now.. The loom out the car! I won't need about 75% of this as I won't be running power window, rear screen heater, power sunroof or even the headlamp wash/wipers! I think I'm going to need a very good wiring diagram But I do plan to use as many of the guages as I can.. The Volvo now looks like this and is ready for the "metal monkeys" (as I call them) to come and collect. Parts removed.. Engine, trans, wiring loom... Propshaft. (may need shortening quite a bit ) Four wheels to smoke the tyres/tires off of Rear axle.. And a new bit of wall decoration
  14. Thanks Richie, there is a lot of non building thinking and working out to do before I can start any metal work.. So I will be busy just in a thinking kinda way.. Nice Gif Jason Though I think your going to need more popcorn and Pepsi than that That's quite a compliment.. Thanks Posifour Hey Jim, I like the idea of using the wagon for storage, but as my workshop is on a nursery/garden center and is open to the public I had the get the 940 stripped and out the way as fast as I could.. The shell was taken away for scrap on Monday. I have ideas for the frame, a lot will depend on how I go with the suspension, thinking a four bar with maybe bike shocks at the back.. The front needs a lot more thinking about to get it looking right and stong enough to handle the abuse I'm sure it will get.. Thanks Eric Thanks Chris, Reason 2 made me laugh.. Happy to be of service Hey again Jim, it's a 94/95 model. Thanks mate, yeah it would be cool to catch up again... It's been a while. Nowt to do with me, it's how those Craazzzyy Sweeds build them
  15. Morning all, well Project Wheel-Vo has taken a big step forward this week as the new running gear has been found... You might say it's been safely kept in this big metal box A "can't quite get he's head around my thinking" Nigel gives the Volvo 940 2.3 SE Turbo a That's quite a big 4 pot! A Volvo B230FK if your into engine numbers. Here's the important bit... The turbo Size wise a manual gearbox would be smaller, but an auto does make life easier... Also I kinda like the idea of being able to keep both hands on the steering wheel during launch as well I dug out the WH 312-8 bonnet/hood to have a look size wise...... This pic makes me look totally nuts for even thinking of this project! However, lift the bonnet/hood up and plonk the said WH item on and suddenly the engine does not look that big.. A certain amount of errr... "Scaling up" is going to be needed on the WH panels but not as much as I had 1st thought as the actual auto box isn't as long as I had 1st thought. Of course I have to fit a radiator and intercooler under the hood as well. I will be using the Volvo rear axle, they are known to be strong and (quite handy for me) easy to narrow As of yesterday here's where I have got to.. Just need to disconnect the shifter linkage, speedo cable (I think the speedo is driven from the 'box), unplug any electrical bits, unbolt the propshaft, unbolt the 'box crossmember and then the engine and trans can be removed as one.. Glad I have the use of a forklift And of course