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About Thunderlizard

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Wesley Chapel, NC
  1. ...my Onan engine has one and the oil stays clean all season! (love that!) Has anyone tried to add an oil filter to the Kohler? Does it pump oil or just sling it? Enquiring minds want to know!!
  2. Thunderlizard

    Anybody Ever Use ZDDPlus?

    I've been a faithful user of STP specifically for the ZDDP it contains for years. ZDDP is one of the best metal-to-metal wear agents, and the ad is correct - that modern motor oils have removed much of it (mostly due to a claim that it caused premature catalytic converter failure as the zinc reacted with the metalin the cat). Shell Rotella T (I use the T6 synthetic 5w-40) has one of the highest concentrations of ZDDP still around. I've used it and STP in my motorcycles for years, with no wet-clutch slip but much smoother shifting. But regardless, for a slinger type oiler, I say it's indispensible. It's in my Kohler engine on my new (old) 312-8. I can say this - I've been on and read numerous blogs on teh subject, and most agree that the ZDDp level in STB Blue is more than sufficient when added in teh concentration they say. Anything beyond that and theye is no additional gain. So that beiing the case, if the ZDDP Plus is more expensive, why not just use STP? JMHO!
  3. Thunderlizard

    312-8 Dash Lights and Circuit Board

    Ha! Yeah, I loved the tube tester! Before I knew anything about it, I played with the thing at the Drug Store. But when it came to fixing my own, yellows were saved, but only used if you didn't have a green! As I mentioned, the neighborhood throw-aways were a wealth of common tubes! With all my little repair projects, I never had to buy one as a kid.
  4. Thunderlizard

    312-8 Dash Lights and Circuit Board

    True-dat! Though I have to say, I've grown awfully fond of the wonderful cadence this 312-8 makes when she's a runnin! Music to me ears!
  5. Thunderlizard

    How To - Test a Diode

    Great post! and to add... ...which is why LED's are polarized (only work when hooked in correct polarity). ( Light Emitting Diodes. )
  6. Thunderlizard

    312-8 Dash Lights and Circuit Board

    I love your commentary! Yes, I remember...I'm not an electronics Guru, but I've fixed many a circuit board in my time (I'm 49) - more by intuition and logic (and part dumb luck!) rather than knowledge! But yeah, The Shack is not the same, and most of the folks don't know anything. Can't say as I blame the Shack - the way things are made nowadays, it's cheaper to buy new than to repair the old. I grew up fixing old radios and TV's, using the tube tester found in my local drug store to check tubes snatched from units people tossed in the trash! To this day, I stil lremember the 12AX7A as being a primary audio driver tube (pre-amp) in old TV's! Kinda scary what the brain can retain... But thanks for the write up and encouragement! You are certainly far more educated and technical on the transistor realm than I am. I just have a "what coudl it hurt" boldness that has mostly lead me to either successfully fixing things, or learning what not to do the next time! If I inadvertantly duplicated any of your work in past posts, please forgive me. Blessings! Mark BTW - when I was in the Shack, I saw a "liquid copper circuit pen". Seemed pretty interesting and useful to fix old boards with bad interconnects. Never saw that before...
  7. Well, I decided to post this in the hope that it may help some one else who "geeks out" on this stuff like I do! Fo rme, if it's there, it's supposed to work. And when it comes to lights of any kind, this form of "man-bling" is eye-candy I just couldn't walk away from! So when I re-connected the feed wires to the test switch and saw that a few of the lights on the dash lit, I was all over it. I removed the circuit board and had to clean what looked like 20 years worth of decaying yard stuff from the board. A soft brush and some silicone spray really helped here. However, that's when the lights started "flaking off", as the bases were so decayed even the ones that lit were just barely hanging on. So I unsoldered the bases and wires, which was as simple as holding the iron on the leftover post while holding the post with needle-nosed pliers. Once the solder melts, the stub comes right out. But here's where I made a mistake of assumption. I assumed that the bulbs were 12V, since the charging system is 12v. After returning from my local Radio Shack with 12 volt bulbs, soldering in a couple and getting nothing, I thought I fried the board! But then I looked at it in the dark and noticed the faintest glow from my replacements. That alerted me to bad voltage and when I put a voltmeter on the leads I discovered that they only drew 2 - 2.3 volts each. So I went back to Radio Shack and this time I got 2.5V bi-pin LED's (from the slide out drawers where all the good stuff is!). The install was easy but Note: LED's are polarized and will only worked when polarity is correct. So, put a meter on the pins to see which is positive. For me, the positive side was closest to the plug. It's a simple process to snip the leads on the LED's (so they are about 1/4" long), hold them onto the indent from where the old bulb leads were, then touch the iron to the opposite side of the circuit board and gently work the leads through. No addional solder was needed. They look great! Here's a Pic: The coolest thing about this is that the lights actually alerted me to leaving the emergency brake on yesterday! They did their job! Gotta love the Wheelhorse. I'm hoping that maybe some of you who thought your circuit boards were toast can now resurrect them! Not that it affects the way the tractor works at all, but as I said, the "man-bling" is really cool! And if it's there, it's supposed to work, right? Good luck!
  8. Thunderlizard

    brake light help

    Well, I found the issue with the brake lights - the pop rivet had loosened up on ground wires, so a little "crush" with pliers, and *poof*! Lights! And regarding the dash lights, I put a volt meter on the leads and learned that they run off of 2 - 2.3 volts. SO for those who replaced bulbs with 12V (thiniking that because this is a 12V system) the bulbs woudl be too dim to see and may appear that the ircuit board doesn't work! I bought 2.5V bipin LED's from Radio Shack and it was relatively easy to solder them in. They all work perfectly, and yesterday, the emergency brake warning light did its job! (forgot it was set!) I'm lovin the dash lights! I will start another thread and post my pictures for reference. And thanks for the Welcome. Lot's of great stuff here!
  9. Thunderlizard

    brake light help

    Hey Fellas~ Sorry to chime in a bit late, but i just picked up a 312-8 (1990) and am puttin some lovin on it as I learn about this beauty. She's been washed, waxed, tuned up, carb adjusted, given a front end alignment, adjusted the PTO drive belt, rebuilt the ignition switch connector, and greased every Bessed fitting I could find! Anyway, the headlights work on the 312, but I can't get teh tail lights to work! Bulbs are good, wires look good, ground looks good...just can't figure it out! Any suggestions? is ther a hidden connector somewhere? I had to rewire the ignition switch as the connector was falling apart. Spade terminals worked fine for the damaged areas. Besides that she runs wonderfully and cuts great (42" deck). Finally, what are teh 5 lights for on the dash? I got them to work, and 4 of the 5 come on (and the bottom one will flash). There's no sticker, so I'm clueleff about this one. Thanks for teh help and all the great info on this forum! I just finished printing out the owner's manual! I have a 212-5 but the electric PTO blew and the deck has a rust through spot so I didn;'t feel it was worth the $$ to fix. This is my first time on this forum.