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Alan R.

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About Alan R.

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Half size D series model.
  • favoritemodel
    D series

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hampshire. UK
  • Occupation
    Retired Do It All.
  • Interests
    Model making. Model railways. Mechanical what nots. Annoying the wife.

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931 profile views
  1. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    After discarding the chain drive the top sprocket was drilled and tapped 4 BA and an alloy bar bolted to it. This bar was drilled with extra holes for the push / pull rods so that various positions could be tried. The same was done with the bottom sprocket. The threaded rods are M6. These will be changed to round bar later and a better top bar made. All a temporary try out for now. Although this arrangement was better than the chain, there was still a lot of free play. A lot of this was from the various universal joints and male / female connections between the bottom sprocket and the front wheels. Better fitting U/J centers were made and various Male F/M, joints drilled and tapped for grub screws which tightened things up but still not enough. The gap between the pin and it's through hole can be seen below. The cavity for the small coil spring didn't help either as a lot of the bearing surface was lost. This was not used in the replacement centers. Probably cheap U/J's found at my usual parts supply location.
  2. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    I did think of having four wheels on rocking beams but decided against it for now. I had bought four wheels extra cheap from eBay. The seller bumped the price up soon after, probably realizing his listing mistake. I made and tried the four wheel arrangement which could be easily changed over via quick release R clips. Could even have three wheels, two one side and one the other. The rocking beam parts before assembly and on the trailer. The steering column was made to hinge down for more compact storage but didn't save much space so just left in the upright position. The bracing strut can be fitted as shown, or in a horizontal position which I thought might make the assembly more rigid. Extra bolt holes were drilled in the face of the seat box. Again left as it is as no difference either way. Some of the column and steering parts. I tried a chain and sprocket first, parts from a lawn mower which were heavy and had too much free movement. Later changed to push / pull rods. The top sprocket which had a D shaped hole was pressed onto it's 1/2" shaft after filing the shaft to fit. Was going to be welded but it hasn't moved yet. The yoke is a mixture of box section and tube shown before welding by the Showman, along with the following parts. Thanks Chris. The bottom sprocket, a 3/8" drive socket, bolt and tube, were all welded together forming the pivot and drive between the trailer and tractor. A piece of shim was inserted to take up the gap around the socket.
  3. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Still bits and pieces to do on the tractor but have also been working on the trailer. Wanted this to be as compact as possible but still big enough to sit in comfort. The chassis started life as a transport frame for motor cycles, shipped in part assembled form to a dealer near where I worked. This was altered to a trolley using wheely bin wheels with a storage box and frame on top so that I could move large model boats from the car to lakeside at the various locations we sailed at. Most lakes did not have access for cars, only footpaths. The trolley frame is shown below minus it's towing handle. This now out of use frame was cut down and used for my sit on trailer. A new axle was made from box section and 16mm bar bolted together and to the frame, using pneumatic wheels instead of the solid tires used for the boat trolley. The seat mount was made up from scrap ply with alloy sheet outer panels. The edges were trimmed with alloy angle, more scrap salvaged when clearing my friends land. The sit on part of the seat is actually the backrest part of a seat I bought on eBay. The seat section looked too big when fitted so went into storage. Short lengths of studding were fitted into the already welded in mounting nuts and just drop into holes in the box top. Hope this makes sense. The now proper backrest, complete with it's Wheel Horse motif, was kindly donated by Chris the Showman, and is mounted on doubled up lengths of alloy angle. 
  4. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Thanks again Jim.
  5. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Another little update after another delay. Too many things to do. Who said retired people have plenty of spare time. The hood catches which started off as 3/16" diameter car brake pad pins. An alloy sleeve pressed on, drilled 1/16" for a short piece of wire, then the domed head turned off. 1/2" ID alloy box section was pop rivited to the inside of the hood after drilling for the pins. A nut and bolt held it in place while drilling for the rivits. Another 1/16" hole was drilled for the retaining R clip after careful measurement to make sure it was in the correct place. It was. More measurement and head scratching then the excess was cut from the pins and the ends chamfered. When closing the hood the pins slide down slightly angled plates before popping into holes near the base. These plates can be seen on this earlier photo of the dash panel. The pins are sprung into place by springs, what else, taken from AA size battery boxes. These were inserted into the alloy box first, then compressed with special tool which I carefully designed then made, allowing room for the pin to pass through. OK, a piece of scrap alloy with a slot filed in it did the job. It was a pig of a job to hold the compressed spring, hold the pin steady, and insert the R clip, while trying avoid it pinging off into the distance. If the R clip had been long enough to protude outside the alloy box it would have been easier. The clip can be seen to the left, the rivits to the right. A washer between the clip and spring would have been better but I gave up trying to fit one. Kept going awol. The parts almost ready to be fitted. Works as intended although just as easy to pull the bottom corners of the hood out slightly which releases the pins.
  6. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    I aim to please. Doesn't always work though.
  7. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    A lot of head scratching and reworking involved Craig. Wouldn't like to try to calculate the hours Jim. Would be interesting to know though.
  8. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Turning brakes. I was undecided on these. Should I fit them, or not. OK, I'll make a start. Bent up a pair from alloy using photo's and guesswork as a size guide. The levers ? were from 1/8" x 1/4" brass drilled and tapped 8BA. Each lever was made in two parts as attempts to bend as per the full size resulted in a break. Brass too hard. Should have tried heating up first. These levers are probably a bit narrow, 3/8" would have been better but nothing in stock. It was then decided to leave them for now and carry on with other bits and pieces. Lots of bits and pieces later, Iain slf-uk my head information provider, sent me photo's and measurements of the assembly so a restart was made. My original guesstimated alloy pedals were correct in height and the inside of the bent up lips, much to my surprise, but 1/4" short in length. This 1/4" is the model size measurement. Two new pedals were made and the horizontal brass section extended using a piece of plastic for quickness. A test assembly. All these parts were held together with 8BA countersunk bolts. Looks a bit messy on the photo's but all hidden later. A few holes were drilled in the wrong place, but not seen when finished. The pivot bar is brass tube with a plastic insert and a 3mm threaded rod. All bits which just happened to fit together without much work. The lower ends of the uprights were drilled and tapped to suit the rod and the tube notched to take the inner upright. Easier than making the tube in sections as per the full size, and as these pedals won't be working, a bit stronger. The locking bar was also fixed in position. The notch in the tube was later filled and blended in. Various other areas had the same treatment to tidy things up. The brake pull rods! were from alloy angle , bolted to the underside of the footrest for extra strength with the nearly visible end trimmed down. I had to alter my original footrest support and lay it flat with the alloy angles notched to clear, but as usual after doing all this a better and simpler solution popped up in my head, but leaving as it is. Photo below is before cutting notches for support clearance. The full size has a steel bar running diagonally under the footrest, from the outer end of the pivot tube to the chassis frame, which helps support the tube. I made up a short alloy bracket which is bolted to the support angle in front of the pedals, and to the front underside of the footrest. Not really visible without effort. Hope all this makes sense. Grip tape was added to the pedals which finished them off as well as hiding all the bolt heads. The footrests also had a covering of the same. This self adhesive tape was listed on eBay as carpet gripper tape. Similar stuff also used for skate boards. I wanted to use ribbed rubber but nothing suitable found. All too thick. The next photo's show various stages of test fits. I could have left the cranked ends straight on the brake rods ! by moving them closer together, but had previously drilled the footrest and didn't want to waste the holes. Photo below. The pins connecting the rods to the uprights were made from a bolt, turned down and drilled, then cut to length. The split pins are 1mm diameter. The threaded end was screwed into the alloy rods after tapping and held with a dab of lock tight. A fiddly job inserting the split pins, especially the inner one resulting in chipped paint, now touched up. Might have been easier before fitting to the tractor. Not too happy with the appearance of these split pins. Need tidying up and the loop made smaller. A job for another time. A few more photo's of the various parts, mounting brackets, footrest support etc plus the unit finally fitted.
  9. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    I wonder what that could be Norm.? When you remember be sure to tell us.
  10. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Headlights continued. The mount was from alloy sheet. White border painted on. Will look better with a decal fitted. The two holes were the first attempt at mounting the headlights via a bolt through the original painted reflector. After scrapping this idea holes were cut using a large washer as a guide. Easier than expected using a very fine saw but had to take care not to damage the paint too much. Should have thought of plan 2 before painting. Next are the lights with plastic retaining rings held onto the rim with very small self tappers. These three photo's show the lights fitted, then the rings painted. Also showing the bulbs which are just a push fit. These appear to look cross eyed on the front view. As said previously, these lights were worked on over approx one year on and off, trying different idea's etc. The next photo's show hub caps which were quick and simple and were only made / altered recently. Jumping the gun a bit here but not to worry. Looking around for something suitable the cap from a deoderant bottle was found to be a good fit over the wheel hubs. Black plastic which was painted white. The end didn't have a sharp edge which would have made painting the red easy so plastic discs were cut and fitted using small expanding rivets which I had a stock of. Three more bottles were obtained which gave the required four. The result, better looking wheel hubs and a nicer smelling wife. OOP's, shouldn't have said that. The discs mounted on a rod ready for painting. The four stages and the rivets. Front and rear wheels with caps. The fronts were a nice push fit but the rears wouldn't go over the hub weld without stretching resulting in chipped paint. A few spots of glue cured this.
  11. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Careful all, don't fall out of your armchairs with shock, I'M BACK. Been a while since I posted but been busy, busy, busy doing lots of little bits, altering other parts, making a trailer plus other non tractor boring jobs. Now where to start since I stopped. ? More little additions first. The easiest were the lights on the fenders. 2 clear and 2 red were obtained from China, where else, for $7.50 including post. Hunted everywhere but these were the nearest to the size I wanted. 12/24 volt LED although non working for now. Maybe later. A printed label can be seen through the clear lens which spoils the appearance slightly. Not so obvious through the red. Back and front bonded together so not easy to remove without damage. The front lights were worked on over approx one year, on and off. Couldn't find anything suitable on the internet. Lots of flat lenses of the right diameter but nothing convex unless I wanted to pay lots of $$$'s, which I didn't. Looked at torches, cycle lights etc but again nothing suitable. Tried various ways of molding them but not happy with the results. Then tried casting in resin using a small quantity which my son had left over from one of his projects. What to use for a mold. First thought was to make one but looking around my garage the very thing, lots of them, were just sitting there looking at me. Sort of. Spray paint cans. The concave base was almost the correct size. A plastic ring, part of an old magnifier, fitted perfectly into the base of the can and reduced the internal diameter to the required size. The resin was mixed with it's hardener, poured, and left to set. As expected quite a few bubbles were trapped, most close to the outer curved face. These were sanded out with very fine wet and dry paper. Took a long time and finished up with an opaque surface. My son used to buff his castings up with polishing compound but while washing off the sanding sludge I noticed the lens was fairly clear while wet. Opaque again when dry. A coat of clear varnish resulted in a clear lens. Getting somewhere at last. Not perfectly perfect but after all this time, they will do. The rims were made up from plastic sheet wrapped around a jar lid after increasing the diameter to the required size. Made oversize first then trimmed down. The inside of the outer edge was built up to form a seat for the lens. Still with me ?. The rims on the full size D-series were rubber ? Speaker. Probably obtained as the nearest ready made unit. Inspection of these at a show in the UK last year showed the word Speaker molded on the outer surface. This was drawn to my attention by someone on Redsquare who was answering another members query. Reflectors. Flat plastic discs were tried painted with silver paint. Not bad but wanted something better. More hunting on the internet using all sorts of search words, plus a few of the swearing variety, then up popped these torch reflectors. $ 2.75 the pair including post, again from, you guessed it, China. Most small items from China usually take about 14 days to the UK. The larger than required opening at the rear was altered using two plastic discs. One with a tapered edge fitted into the tapered inner edge with the other on the outer face. All bonded together using liquid plastic cement. A 12 volt car bulb fitted a hole drilled through the center. Could be made to work if needed. The second photo shows the original flat painted reflector disc. The last is of the two discs at the rear clamped together with a nut and bolt while the cement dries. More on these lights next posting.
  12. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Would be good if I could Jim. Need to win the lottery first though. They never pick my numbers.
  13. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    A few more small parts. The 4 Tach-a-Matic brackets were cut from alloy sheet. At the time I had idea's of making them working units but wasn't sure of the shape of the pivoting section. A slot was cut, to be shortened later, but in the end it was decided to make them NON working. A simple drilled hole would have done instead. Both sections were rivited together at the front. A 4BA bolt and alloy tube formed the operating lever ? for want of a better description, and secured the rear. I have since seen photos of these units in pieces, but still unsure how the lever ? works. Photo's I have looked at also appear to show other holes in various places, so again a bit of guess work was used. The mule drive, again NON working, was bent up from alloy and bolted to the underside of the chassis. The pins which would have attached it to the brackets were bolts with the heads cut down and alloy spacer tubes. Knobs for the front of the removable grill were machined from small plastic balls. Drilled and tapped 4BA first with a bolt used to hold in the lathe chuck. Still need smoothing off. All these items still need painting. Too cold in my garage for spraying. I can put up with the cold but the paint objects and refuses to play nicely.
  14. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Two little bits this time. The carburetor attachment tube was cut down to about 1/2 length. Left long, the throttle cable was rubbing on the outside of the hood and didn't look good anyway. Cut down, the cable and it's outer spring fitted neatly inside the hood. I expected difficulty cutting the tube down due to the limited room for the hacksaw, but it was a quick and easy job. The tube was softer than thought and a junior hacksaw soon went through it taking care not to mark the paint on the surrounding body panels. The cable is just tucked in out of the way at this stage. The brake pedal, non working, was made up from alloy, steel washers and plastic. The lettering is 1 mm approx round plastic rod with the curves of the B and R from solder wire. The solder wire was super glued in place with the remainder of the lettering and other parts fused together with liquid plastic cement. The washers, either side of the pivot point, were drilled and tapped then held together with 8BA c/sunk bolts passing through the assembly. The center of the washers, and the plastic/alloy in between, were tapped 5/16 UNF for a mounting bolt which was fixed in place with lock tight. This item was just eyeballed up from various photo's so just a near enough copy. The last photo shows it loosely fixed in place and still waiting final filling and painting.
  15. Alan R.

    HALF a HORSE.

    Nothing special about my machining Jim. Just picked it up by trial and error. More error than trial. Mainly small model making stuff plus did odd heavier bits while working on hydraulics. Not an expert by any stretch of the imagination.
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