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I had another thread on this tractor but danged if I can find it & never did post red porn glamor pics. A carcass from @Achto and a few years later. Finally finished it couple months ago. Motor runs so nice promptly put it to yard work. Some things are just better left untouched. Character they call it and tells stories. Not sure if orginal amp meter but just looked right. Many thanks to Dan for body work n paint n parts. @Pullstart for the motor. Most of my dealer stickers are on magnets.

Continental or Chrysler engine, which is it? Numerous tractor manufacturers, both large and small, utilized engines from Continental or Chrysler to power their tractor. Both were strong reliable powerhouses and much more affordable than producing one’s own engine. In 1905, Continental Motors was born with the introduction of a four-cylinder, four stroke cycle L-head engine. The Continental engine proved itself to be durable and reliable and became the choice of many smaller manufacturers of tractors, pumps, electrical generator sets and even some very prestigious automobiles such as the Peerless. Some models of Allis-Chalmers, Case, Ferguson, Farmall, Massey-Harris, Oliver and Silver King tractors utilized Continental engines as did over one hundred early automobile manufacturers. Some models used Continental engines for only part of their production lifespan; others used them exclusively. East of the Mississippi, tractor manufacturers such as Co-op, Lehr, Custom, Love, Friday, and Massey-Harris produced tractors using Chrysler industrial engines and drivetrains. Canadian tractors like Rockol, Norseman and Regal also adopted these components for tractors sold north of the border. This was also the case west of the Mississippi, with manufacturers such as OMC, Simpson Jumbo, Wards and Big Boy. Massey-Harris leveraged the reputation of Chrysler's rugged industrial inline engines when it rolled out the versatile 101 in 1938: "Six-cylinder smoothness pre-proven in over 1,000,000 motors," early advertisements for the 101 boasted. Not only did consumers recognize that their tractors were powered by one of the world's most proven engines, but parts and service for these engines were as close as the nearest Chrysler dealership. As a nice fringe benefit, since electric starters were standard equipment on automobiles, six-cylinder equipped Massey-Harris tractors were among the first to roll out this feature. Furthermore, the company could boast about the availability of a six-cylinder when most tractors were powered by inline-fours and John Deere was clinging to its Johnny popping two-cylinders. The Chrysler engine also offered reduced oil consumption over some tractor engines: Massey-Harris literature boasted that operators of its Chrysler-powered 101s could save as much as $50 annually in reduced oil costs. Of course, being an automobile engine, the Chrysler also boasted a full-pressure oiling system and full-cylinder-length water jackets, as well as a state-of-the-art water pump. The Continental and Chrysler engines were used in many tractors and they look very similar. What is an easy way to tell the difference between the two? The Continental’s distributor (left) comes out the top of the engine and the Chrysler ‘s (right) distributor’s located on the lefty side of the engine block. So, the next time you are at a tractor show and spot a flathead engine like the ones pictured below you can impress your friends by just glancing at the engine and being able to tell if it is a Continental or a Chrysler.

I was looking around and I have a few things that I would probably just give away to someone in our Wheel Horse community that could use them rather than trying to collect 5 or 10 bucks. Example, last year I tried to sell a set of tire chains for something like 20 bucks? At the end of the show I wanted to give them away as I didn’t want to take them home. I probably have more things that I would give to someone that could use them if I dig around. To me it’s not about getting every dollar I can, I’ve had people help me along the way and this could be a way to pay it forward. I’m guessing that I’m not the only one who thinks this way? Obviously this area would have to be approved by the WHCC and probably the biggest part would be who would clean up whatever was left at the end of the show. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Post them on the Big Show Buy Sell Trade thread and say it's free

Rule is Ed if anything with a round hood is seen pull the trigger... we'll check for horns later...

I’d imagine this can be used in similar fashion to build a custom cable for a Horse. Pretty cool!

All RJs had a welded steel front axle. Suburbans and up had cast. All RJs also had the three piece transmission. Some Suburbans had a three piece, some had a two piece. Those are my first quick identifiers…

Looks great, and Rylee was glad to help!

I have the impression that even brand new brick hammers have a fairly dull chisel edge on them. They have a single grind to the business end, not like the double ground tip of a cold chisel. They "cut" brick by the shock imparted from the small impact area. I was always impressed watching skilled brickies who would "cut" solid house bricks with their mortar trowels, striking a few blows to fracture a brick in two. They weren't cutting the brick in the accepted sense of the word but setting up a stress fracture with a focused impact. For instance they couldn't accurately cut a brick like one would with a stone saw. Just my two penneth....

312-8 restoration project. Picked up about month ago. Going through it and finding what it needs. Hopefully be ready for winter.

We were cleaning out some old obsolete refrigeration equipment at work and I saved these 2 fans. They are similar to the metal hydrogear cooling fans from the 60's. The fans on tractors usually are missing cracked bent ect. These fans measure 6 7/8" and 7 7/8" O.D. I thought of bringing these to the show and comparing them to a fan on a tractor but if anyone has one of these an can take a pic and measure across that would be helpful. I do not need a fan but I'm trying to come up with a reasonably priced alternative to the obsolete WH fan so members can replace theirs if needed.

Well, I decided to try something different. Bent a piece of 1/2” conduit and ran the wires that normally go overtop of the engine, through the conduit. Now it needs powder coat.

'Fraid not Bob... was welded in the usual spot...where it bolts to the frame. Decent PO repair tho & correct one so run it like I it.

I have an Estwing brick hammer I bought 30 + years ago, never have sharpened it.

Well you're at the right/wrong place to support that!!

Forms are on.

It was on CL not too far from me, with a 1055 or 1056 carcass. It was silly, like “$175 for everything, or $250 for just the belt guard. I know what I have.” he ended up giving me a handful of 552 stuff, a hood, belt guard, clapped out stuck frame and transmission, etc. That $175 made a ton of projects complete!

Story on the motor is I had a 401 with a one pull B1290 on it that I ran so little it had stale gas in it. @Lil’ Pullstart took a hankerin to it and since I was neglecting it and her dad had a pulley correct 161 that fell out the sky so a trade was made. Popped the 161 head to see what shakes and it had a .010 piston that never saw fire! 2nd small block come thru here like that.

If you put an edge on a brick hammer it will shatter.

Quite a transformation!!

More like 40 to 45 degrees. It's more a chisel edge than a cutting type edge. Obviously it's a balance between a sharp edge that would be damaged pretty much right away and a plain flat surface that would still beat it's way through grass at a high enough speed. Currently I have a Stihl battery mower and the blade on that is very thin and has a very sharp cutting edge, honestly you could shave with a new one. The reason for this is the battery motor is not powerful enough to drive a blade as thick as a petrol engined machine and similarly not strong enough to cut grass with a chisel edge. We will see how long it lasts eh?

If you have one of those springs that is not cracked, you could extend its life by polishing a small radius on the top edge of the bolt hole. The polish operation is important, as grinding marks or file marks are also places that encourage fatigue cracks to start. The square edge on the bolt hole is a stress consentration point - a 'break here' feature. Polishing a small radius will remove the 'break here' feature and should increase the fatigue life of the seat spring.

Please don't leave us hanging - let us know what you find.

I actually have thought about a lift in my garage, I have a 12’ ceiling so I have the height but honestly for the amount that I would use it I think it would be in the way more than anything?

Picked up these beauties this afternoon. I don't drink or gamble...but I have an addiction.

Click on the pic.

The smile says it all! 👍

The three point was nice for hooking up a weight box. I believe the steering box has an adjustment maybe someone here might be able to help with that issue. And to be honest. I took the loader off and put it on a 520H because of consistent issues with the D. Coupler issues, Hydro piping leaks, and very, very hard to steer with a load. The 520 reduction steering was a big improvement. If I was only using it once in a while I would have kept it, but I used it all the time and the steering was a deal breaker. I actually moved my gas tank back some cause I eat well. It has been a while and can't remember how tho. My loader was homemade and the pump mounted underneath and utilized the mule drive for the mower deck to route the belt.

Measurements I can take pictures and measurements of the screen and mounting brackets if you need them. I think the 1075 is the same, but I'll check the book to be sure. According to the 1075/875 parts list, the screens are the same.

I can measure my 875 fan.

Sure did clean up beautifully. And it's great to have such great friends to help you out along the way.

@JoeM The pump coupler is looking good from what I can tell.

And is that a rare, original, unbroken steering support?

Built in redundancy seems to be the order of the day. Plus the fact that modern gal's want the most up to date fancy looking kit in their homes. Plus the fact that modern manufacturing processes allow for thinner steel, less material etc so things don't last. You only have to look at car body panels to see that in action. My mum with her new washing machine in the early 60's. I would bet my pension that if I could find it the thing would still be in working order, or could be repaired to be. Note we only had one cold tap, no hot water other than from a wall mounted gas fired geyser over the pot sink. We also had no indoor toilet or a bathroom. Seems a thousand years from what people expect as basic facilities these days. Lord knows how modern families would cope with what I grew up with, but I'm.sure my grandparents would have been saying the same thing when I was a nipper.

Thanks guys, all good suggestions. I'll try some and let you know when I get it fixed. Any more suggestions feel free to post

Which bearing do you need? There are two. I have both... ps...how did you rewind the electro magnet???

Thanks Bob.

. Back!!

Dumpster diving again .

to Look for the model number, usually under the seat, I'll look at the manuals section & see if there's one there...

6 Pack Furniture Mover Dolly, Moving Dolly with 5 Wheels & Furniture Lifter Set, 1320Lbs Load Capacity, 360° Rotation Wheels Furniture Dolly, for Moving Heavy Furniture Sofa Cabinet Refrigerator: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific One of these under each corner would probably work to roll it under if you raised the front of the tractor.

Haha!!!! Found it in this 1940 brochure. 2140 lbs. 1940_-_Flexible_Farming_is_More_Profitable_Farming.pdf

Semi - Worker. Can't stand to just look at it in the garage. It was built to do something.

I ran across this tonight, thought you guys would enjoy.

I also found the hood I bought from @squonk at one of the last couple Big Shows. Should I swap it out for the unpainted one? I also have the Bugatti kit car back in the shop for another round of upgrades and maintenance.

We spent the day moving all the ehhh... "Stuff" out from undah the last side shed roof. We're now ready for concrete. And the waiting begins..... Bonus dog pic!!!

I found a great use for one of those plastic battery post caps you get when you buy a new tractor battery! I finally decided to do something about my 334-8 Toro throttle lever dropping down during use! I know there are all types of solutions people have posted about this issue ! When you are mowing and the throttle lever keeps dropping down you lose full throttle power to the mower deck! I looked at the hole in the dash below the throttle knob and decided to try a battery post cap in the hole below. At first try it would not stay. Cut a smaller triangle at the top of the ankle’s plastic triangle on the cap anchor inserted sideways! well what do you know it locked the throttle knob in place and I mowed at full throttle after installing. i have five or six of these caps as I generally save thinks that look like they may have a future use but I sure never thought this would work on the sloppy throttle linkage - but it does!

i have used my 37 side discharge with my 312-8 since bought new in 1989 -- always thought it had excellent cut - - i have also used 36, 42s, 48s in recent yrs -- I still believe the 37 cuts real well comparatively -- plus, its easy to handle and install and remove - and manuverable when cutting with 312 ----- i have bagger for the 37 sd which works great in spring for lawn clean up as well as in fall for leaves - With my grandson recently did restore on the 37 expecting to get more decades of use - Some people don't like the belt -- but i have had good luck with pulleys and belts - - i keep mule adjusted to proper 1 inch deflection and replace belt when worn

I make this trip once a year (if I can stay out of the hospital) and it is the only show I attend that is over two hours from the house so the cost isn't prohibitive. Just a family reunion to me.