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I didn't even know that this was an option!! I sure hope that my addiction never gets this bad.

I have something I started on and will finish it after I get moved to my son’s house(temporary housing). I have a 5/8” rod and will weld 3/8” chain links to the ends. These will snap right into the tachamatic brackets. Hook your straps to the chain links and cinch it down. (Unless you have an attachment on your tractor)

I know just the guy for a pull start!

Hard saying... I have an interest in keeping it around, but the price was right and we are trying to teach the girls that it’s ok to get rid of things once in a while, along with basic economics. We have a potential to buy low, put in a little sweat equity and sell at a point which we feel comfortable making something back AND making the buyer happy with their new tractor. Then again, I feel like maybe there’s a chance I get it going and keep it around to graze in the tall tall field with that Briggs twin and RD deck! All in all, I’d like to have a Work Horse in my fleet some day. Will it be this one? I don’t know yet.

There ought to a Goverment Grant to save homeless Wheel Horses.

Played with the new Briggs I/C powered GT-1600 tonight. The fuel line is plugged bad to the tank under the seat. I managed to blow air through the line into the tank but still could not get anything through. So I put a small piece of hose into a gas jug from the fuel pump and had Rylee crank it over again. Now fuel’s spitting out of a weep hole on the pump cover! The P.O. mentioned it might need some pump work, leads me to believe it’s been apart before? So I’ll need to find a pump kit for that Briggs engine AND find the plug in the fuel system. @Blackhood Bill do you off hand know of any part numbers for a fuel pump diaphragm kit?

I have replaced the 3/8" bolt that secures the front axle pivot pin with a welded eye bolt that allows me to strap the front end without touching the paint. At the rear I use the trailer hitch.

Axle straps https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/smartstraps-axle-strap-21-in-10-000-lb?cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSCExtAd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzO2Bj43M4wIVSr7ACh1hrwz2EAAYASAAEgIxcvD_BwE

It cooled down enough to weld today, so I made the anti scalp roller brackets .

something odd is going on here I have never seen a old original kohler 7hp with a 7hp decal like that on the side of the blower tin

Amongst my WH's and old engines, one odd hobby of mine is collecting the old iron and brass electric table fans from the pre-30's era. Most of my local friends know this, and often show up with some tired out hulk. ..Today's out of nowhere surprise was this cute little thing.. and honestly I forgot they existed. It's a Trico vacuum fan. Intended for 20-30's era cars for defrosting the windshield. It was sold at your local gas station as a kit, (Which includes a fitting, where you drilled and tapped your intake manifold to fit the vacuum barb) and clamped to your steering column. A little oil on the shaft had it humming away.. My only vehicle is an '85 F150, with no air other then wing windows.. not even sliding back glass. (Which honestly I prefer). Always thought about one of the 12v car fans but they are just way too big for my tight cab. Clamped this up on the mirror post and it works great, hums along like a little turbine generator when idling. Conveniently slows down as you accelerate and kicks back up to speed once you stop again. Take this as my old inline 6 is really tired out, or a convenient wear-saving effect on the fan motor.. I don't mind either way Figured I'd share it, neat little piece. Seems to run smooth with very little wear in the bushings. I'm sure it'll probably last another hundred years.

If it's original your 654 actually has a 3 speed with the brake drum on the mushroom gear shaft (near the axle). Basically all 3, 4, 6 and 8 speeds will bolt right in but matching the location of the brake drum will simplify the linkage. Putting in an 8 speed (drum on cluster gear shaft) is still a pretty straight forward swap. The routing for the hi/lo shifter could be a bit tougher but no big deal. Keep us informed...….with pictures.

Much better cause than needing money for drugs.

Picked up this old horse from a farm down the road from me with a snow blower that's missing some parts and a heavy duty belly mower deck, not sure the make not wheel horse but adapted to fit, 3 point hitch came with cylinder but no hoses and bent lift arm but some heat and sweat should fix that, any help with the sizes on the hoses would be much appreciated, not sure about the year but it cost me half a six pack, oil change in the engine and hydro and drove her home about a quarter mile hydro seems strong but linkage is iffy works but not centering right, anyway just throwing this out there probably alot of questions to come but any thoughts on how to go forward?

$669 with this coupon good till Sept. 28.

A BIG auction find today. Take a guess what it is, I bet no one will get it

But......but......I've got a 752 that's all original. It's parked right next to my B-160.........

I try to use the 3/8” holes in the frame, or quick attach brackets for a tie down point whenever possible. There’s also some the use of a good strap over a tire to limit movement on the trailer...

...and they say... you can't make this stuff up.

Little red riding horse, I see you’re a fan of antique air circulation. Ill see myself out

Ok, so is that guy a member here? I give him a for creativity.

Very true but, especially true in the earlier years, the dealers were quick to offer what the customer wanted. I was with my Dad when he was looking at a 704 new. He was contemplating it when the dealer said that if he wanted electric start he'd do it. No, not a 754 but a 704 electric start maintaining a 704 hood. He actually wanted a pull start and ended up buying it. If the swap would have been done it wouldn't have been 'factory' but I'm sure over the years the word would have been "bought new with the electric start' and the presumption would have been from the factory. I'm sure that's happened a lot with these tractors. If he would have been looking in 1962 I can hear him saying "hmmmm, I want a pull start but I don't want a Tecky" (he was Kohler all the way). It's easy to guess what the dealer would have done. The lack of a battery box is odd though.

@Zant2540! I put an 8 speed in my 502, essentially the same project you’re trying to tackle. I believe I made my own brake rod or customized an O.E. Part to fit.... but it was because of what Richard mentioned. I never did finish a parking brake lever, but otherwise I’m happy with the swap!

The manual shows the 702 having a S/G, but I suspect in 1962 it could be bought with a pull start too. It may have been a customer requested option for the more thrifty buyer, I didn't see a battery box in the pictured so I'm inclined to think it is a factory made pull start.

Ok I'm not completely sure which engine your new tractor has. Is that an opposed BS twin? Fuel pumps on those were a common problem. If that is what you have hopefully it is the 3 screw pump as those are a little cheaper than the 4 screw pumps. Here is a site that offers the rebuild kits, even if you don't order from them you will be able to get the factory part #'s from their site. http://www.psep.biz/store/briggs_stratton_fuel_pump.htm

Trying a re-take pic, but with Norman and a GT!

A-81?

My rear discharge leaves two windrows one on each side not evenly spread.

Finally, a correct 702!!! Everyone has always wondered about the "0" and the "5" as the second digit. The 502 was a pull start, the 702 was a pull start, the 552 is electric start and the 752 is electric start. The planets have finally come into alignment. You would think that a pull start 702 would have come with the tool box like this 502 did. The thread tractor does have the correct 702 seat. It has been re-painted. It has original tires, front & rear. The tower looks correct for the pull start. It looks like a real 702.

Trivia - 1962 serial 62-2856 and on have a bent shifter to clear the hydraulic pump Garry

which is true, a collector I know has a (a 552 if i remember) wheelhorse that was special ordered with white painted sheet metal because the buyer didn't want it all red. the dealership made the accommodations to complete the sale

Hey...there’s more than one way to fund the hobby! Who knows, maybe someone would swing by and drop off an old tractor or two

I’ll be sure to keep you updated!

The little clip is on one carb and not on the next, I wouldnt worry about it causing any of your probs. With flooding the needle is not sealing off the fuel letting the pump just keep on 'flooding'. More commonly the needle will not seal at all and the engine wont even crank, less common is - possibly - yours might be a small leak letting too much in with some dripping down the throat of the carb. If you havent changed out the needle that came in the chicom, do so....... I'm feeling your pain with this, as I mentioned, that Onan had me so frustrated I had begun to consider changing out the engine!! But on the other hand this has been an interesting post with a lot of back and forth info/comments (One of the BIG reasons this site is SO GREAT!!) By the way, your descriptions of the symptoms and what you have done are a great help -- unlike "it wont run"

……...But, the 1962 sales brochure states that all the tractors were identical other than the horsepower and electric or pull start. I'm not sure exactly how they meant that but it sounds like you could ask for either.

The bolt pattern of the six speeds and eight speeds is the same as your 854. The earlier six speeds (break drum located near the rear axle) have the same linkage for the break rod, but the newer eight speeds have the brake drum located further forward. I don't remember the year of this transition but @stevasaurus should be able to fill you in.

@JaysHorse....make sure the kohler runs and ill pay you what you for that what you paid for whole tractor...just throwing it out there

Dad’s 1969 AMC Rambler had vacuum wipers, and I seem to remember that the thing that made the windshield washer fluid squirt was a small diaphragm above the high/low beam switch that you mashed with your left foot...... great design!

Painted my new to me inside rear wheel weights, and assembled the mule drive. I used a set of older cast pulleys with the replaceable bearings. Had these pulleys for sale at the show and nobody would even make an offer on them...….

Cool find reminds of the older cars with vacuum windshield wipers which when climbing a grade or on a steep hill would stop completely until cresting the hill. My semi truck that I had at retirement a couple years ago was a 1989 international 9370 which had air operated windshield wipers, fortunately it carried 110 to 120 pounds of air pressure so they never slowed or stopped while climbing hills.

Last year almost to the day, I picked up Frank’s bones. Last night, we find a GT-1600 on CL in this same town and I recognize the driveway. It was 9:30pm when I showed Mrs. P the listing. “Call him!” She says. I called this morning, same gentleman. At least he knows that I’m serious with my word. Sounds like we’re taking a family trip tonight for my first Grey Hood and newest tractor! It runs when you give it fuel through the carb... so I’ll be looking into a full fuel system overhaul. Something doesn’t quite look right on the front axle, the tires have too much camber. I have a couple spare parts to help with that.

Did the final assembly on the deck, added some protective padding to the top of the shell to prevent the crossbar from scratching, installed the last of dad's nos blades and belts, installed a replaceable bushing in the leveler rod hole; will save the last overall pics for after the decals get here

Great idea! Those generic decals always bugged me too. I went with a Delco decal from “Vinylguy” on some of my batteries.... Very nice job on your tractor!!

What is the engine response if you have it running fast as it will and start to screw in the High speed needle??? Better worse or just dies....

Make sure the ignition switch body is grounded. Check for continuity between it and the battery - terminal. I You have a magneto system to stop it the ignition switch grounds the magneto. In the off position there should be continuity between the M terminal of the switch and ground. Backfire. If the switch isn't stopping it how are you shutting it down? If you do it by choking then there is a gas build up that will detonate on restart.

would this help....

Some years back I had another brand with a very similar if not identical Briggs 16 twin in it. I never did get to drive that one but I've had a lot of great luck with Briggs engines over the years. That particular one ran n sounded fantastic. I'll be super curious to see what you think if you do try to mow with it.

This is a thread about tractor shows... here’s a teaser to prove it happened @PeacemakerJack! That’s also the last time I was clean shaven, that I recall!

@76c12091520h, may I suggest you become a supporter so 1) you are helping keep the lights on here at RS, 2) unlimited uploading of your restoration pics/vids...its a small price to pay... for all you get sharing and receiving great info for our little red tractors.