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Went plowing on Clyde! more of a write up in the plowing thread. It was a great hour turning soil...

And suicidal tendencies......mounting the fuel tank over his head.

Hi folks, new member here on the forum. Ive had a few old wheelhorse over the years that have come and gone. I'm 47 years old, child of the 80s, but have always had an appreciation of older stuff. Parents always had antique/junk shop when i was growing up. Anyway, picked this up locally a couple days ago. Im aware that a few pieces parts are missing, and perhaps some parts are not original to the tractor. And even maybe some homemade parts(belt guard), the steering linkage certainly looks "engineered" outta pieces parts, but its fuctional. Any info would be greatly appreciated. The rear tranny where the wheels connect to the shafts dont look like pictures ive run across so far, so thats a mystery to me as well. The only real concern i have, is that the engine does smoke abit....it seems to run great, easy to start, idles nice....just does scare a few of the mosqiutoes away. Tranny shifts well and is quite, small leak outta one of the axle seals. I paid 550$ for the tractor, i have really no idea if that was a good, bad, or fair price to pay. Someone did seem to put alot of effort into fixin it up, so thats what attracted me to it in the first place. Gonna try and post a number of pics so you all can have a look. Any insight or opinions are appreciated, thanks, mike

Well folks. We're at the stage of the game where there's nothing left to do but degrease and throw a quick coat of paint on the transmission and put some seals in it. Also put some paint on the engine. Then... Reassembly begins.

Hey there! Can anyone tell me what I have here? ANy comments about 3 spd transaxle appreciated. This is my 2nd antique tractor I've come across recently. I'm fairly handy / skilled and have already started in on putting this back to work. Orig trailer is in working condition. Tractor had 2 bad front wheels and tires. I salvaged 2 wheels with bearings to fit of of a parts buggy and 2 tires off of a seized snowblower. Steering was very seized. I got working ok, but awful notchy... Clutch peddle still way tight so trying to free that up. Motor was roached but I had a 5hp on the shelf. Had to do some minor trimming to get 5hp to fit. Just got it running although not off choke so have a bit of fiddling to do there. Belt I guessed at is 1" too short so I'll be back on this next weekend. I love tinkering with these things.

Yes. Very much enjoying the forum. Im glad i joined.

MHL Pay no never mind to the to these clowns and their fashion shows! I think Pullstart was instructing that guy on proper loading techniques! I was trying to figure out why Richard even brought up the MASH pole then I saw your pic of the Colonel! That is a nice looking RJ and the price was good. Thanks for the

I LOVE IT WHEN SOIL CONDITIONS ARE JUST RIGHT! Tonight, I spent a little over an hour plowing at my uncles. I decided to use Clyde because my Dad lives just down the road from Bob’s farm. Plus, I haven’t gotten any really good seat time on that tractor since we got it set up for plowing. The moisture content of the soil was great, the trash was minimal, the temps were cool, and the 953 was plowing as good as I hoped that it would. The land wheel that Dad made for his plow works great. It was easy to adjust on the fly and since the soil was pliable enough to plow to depth, it did its job as it should. the plow was cutting a clean 5-6” deep furrow in most places. I was very happy with how it was trailing behind the tractor. There was even a little airspace between the landslide and the furrow wall when I stopped to check several times. The 953/1054 platform is excellent for a plow mule! I was totally enjoying the ground clearance, super comfortable seat (just needs an arm rest for my taste), and the overall stability of the big tractor. Those 7.60x15 implement tires also sit perfect in the furrow and supply an excellent amount of traction. I plowed most of the time in second gear at about 1/2 throttle and was loving it. One of my favorite things about fall is GT plowing!

I got some more stuff painted. Got some more cleaning and painting to do. But the parts pile Is getting smaller. Drained and flushed the transaxle. Got to get some new axle seals for that, along with the input seal.

@pullstart Okay, I won’t stay on this but I think I’ve interpreted the situation. Eric was stating that not only you, but himself (me included) aren’t necessarily gifted with the common sense of fashion our women folk are? I certainly won’t win any style points for wardrobe unless black t-shirts and jeans become the “IT” fashion of the moment. But when you’re as beautiful as we are you can just wear what you want!!!

@mhlmeader Believe it or not there’s some serious content on here! Just as much or more technical support and mechanical brilliance as clowning around. Great forum and community of folks. I hope you’re enjoying it!

Welcome to redsquare @mhlmeader and thats a nice rj ya got. @pullstart @ebinmaine I'm right there with ya on the boots and shorts. Drives my wife crazy, cause I will go anywhere dressed like that.

All of the work got things pretty close to finished. Missing was the original throttle... No way to get one other than make one - again Ewan did a cracking job fabbing one from scratch!

Wait! Do I spy the now famous wardrobe of @pullstart in the background?

Mowing and cruising

Heres some more pictures......

Hey there! Checking in from So. Maine. Love these old tractors. Came across one that put a smile on my face so I grabbed it Will post shortly in top forum.

It appears to be a "Fromall", has parts and pieces from all kinds of equipment!

You can trust your mother you cannot trust your ground....

Cowgirls are truly the only people who can pull off the boots and shorts look .

My brother from another mother right there ladies and gentlemen. That is EXACTLY what I wear to work everyday of the year that it's above about 30 degrees or so. Goofy face and boots are year-round of course......

Yep, look for a goofy face, shorts and boots, and you’ll find me! I sure do get around in the photo bomb department of The Big Show, INC!

Hi Danny, No problem whatsoever about using ideas. It was why I started the topic originally. If it helps others and improves the working ability of these machines, then it has done it's job. Regards

For sure Jim. Plowing in the sandy soil near your house, a scraper isn’t all that necessary, plowing in the sticky stuff near my house, that wheel could end up being 12” in diameter Daron—you will find plowing with your GT to be quite addictive. I’m hoping to get a little seat time tomorrow evening on Clyde if my work day goes ok. My uncle has a bunch of open field work with pretty decent moisture content now. If I make it out, I’ll do a write up here.

Richard, Achto and Kenneth, Thank you! That is exactly what I was looking for! Richard, I had glanced at the thread you referenced above, but did not remember your headlight upgrades. I also did not comment at the time, but will now... I have to tell you, yout level of craftsmanship is second to none! I am in awe of what you did on that build. I also hope you don’t mind if I steal your idea on the guide for the brake rod linkage? Mine has the same problem, but I have yet to fix it. Thanks for the information! Danny

Fit right in existing sockets.

You done Goooood! A little smoke is no big deal and the steering is better than the factory parts. Also, MASH is my all time favorite TV series and at our "Big Show" (Wheel Horse Collector Club Show) we have a MASH Pole.

I’m sure there have been threads started specifically for this topic on here and if the moderators want to combine this with one of those, please do. Per @Daron1965‘s request, I’ll start a thread about my personal favorite attachment for a Garden Tractor—the furrow plow. I want to state clearly here that I don’t claim to be an authority on this subject. Maybe like doctors “practice medicine”, I find myself “practicing with a Brinly” every time that I head out into a field. I’m going to tag a few of my buddies like @Achto @WHX20 @Shynon @prondzy @Stormin @WVHillbilly520H (If i’ve Forgotten you, not my intention, please join the discussion) Who are all “plow dogs” in that they enjoy climbing into the furrows and turning earth for extended periods of time! I hope that they will weigh in here with their experiences and things that they have done with their rigs and plows. Pictures will definitely welcome and encouraged in this thread, both for instruction and coolness factor. It is funny how people look at someone on a garden tractor turning under a field! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone uninitiated said to me, “I didn’t think you could do that with a lawnmower!” Many folks today have seen people blading with a GT, mowing with a GT, blowing with a GT, but when they see someone plowing with one—they are often shocked. Our culture has moved so far from the agregarian society that people aren’t familiar with it. I bought a 10” Brinly two weeks ago from a buddy who brought it to my Uncle’s Farm day. It was a vey cost efficient price. Apparently, he found it at a garage sale. The person had painted it all black and was using it for a yard ornament because they had no idea what it was for. The first thing I want to make clear about plowing with a GT: GROUND CONDITIONS ARE OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE! If you are trying to plow red or blue clay that hasn’t seen a drop of rain in two months—Don’t Even waste your time. You won’t have fun, you won’t have very good success, and you’ll probably break your tractor in the process! Also, be aware that a garden will traditionally plow easier than a field because the field gets compacted throughout the year with large equipment that weigh anywhere from 5 ton to 20 and more. If the soil is too wet when you are trying to plow it will stick to everything unless it is a real sandy soil. This soil here was quite sandy but was still as hard as a rock. We had trouble getting the plows to suck in. When a plow is only cutting a 2” deep furrow, the geometry of the plow isn’t correct and the next pass or tractor in the furrow is acting more like a chisel plow than a moldboard plow. One of the awesome things about GT plow days, is the opportunity to share the experience with some buddies. Rarely do we get together to blow snow or cut lawn. I like GT shows but I like plow days better. Why? Because not only do we get to look at cool tractors or show off our own, we get to use them and see them in operation. Here my Uncle Roger is using his 314-8 to turn my garden. He was cutting a 6-7” deep furrow with his 10” Brinly and it was doing a beautiful job. This soil is a sandy loam and the moisture content was perfect. One problem with most WH’s as a plow tractor—they are way too light in the front. If you want to do any SERIOUS plowing with one, you need at least a good 60-70#’s or more of front end weight. I’m running 3- 22# weights on my front attach-a-matic and a pair of cast front wheel weights on GhostRider. When I first plowed with him, I couldn’t keep the front down! I was tempted to sit on the hood and look backwards over my shoulder . Power is important and it is good to have a strong running engine. However, there is no need for 25hp when a strong K301 will pull a 12” Brinly in moderate soil conditions with proper adjustments and weight all day. Size your plow to your tractor and it’s power. Comanche is an 8hp Tractor and an 8” Plow is suited well to it. I regularly run the Punisher(my 12” Brinly) behind GhostRider (my 314-8). Conditions were nearly perfect this particular day. I was cutting a 6-8” furrow (notice the lean angle on the tractor) and the soil had just the right amount of moisture to scour really well. Tires are important. I like the modern Carlisle TruPower on the left but I know that Tom and Mike swear by Firestone 23’s and I can’t wait for them to weigh in on their experiences. Dan and I have been discussing the pros and cons of tire width. Too wide and your tractor floats more and then it takes more weight to keep it from spinning. Too skinny and you don’t have enough bite in the ground. A clean moldboard is also very important especially if the soil is sticky at all. If you buy a used Brinly and the moldboard and plowshare are all rusty, I’d suggest cleaning them up some with a wire wheel on a grinder or a drill before using it. The dirt in the field will do the rest. I love the mirror shine that Dan has on his plow here! You know the plowing was good when you leave the field and your plow looks like this and your rear tire like that! I have a lot more to say but I have a few other things to take care of right now and so I’ll check back in later...

I got a nice shape Charger 9 this summer. The original Techy crapped out then its Kohler k241 replacement started crapping out. I found a nice running 310-8 and decided to repower the Charger 9 with its Kohler M10 (shown in pics). I still need to connect choke and throttle cable, connect fuel line, new air filter, clean it up, and do some minor wiring, but should work great! Thanks to everyone who helped me with advice and sharing experiences/ideas—all extremely helpful.

Trina put the final coat of paint on the front wheels. I spent a couple hours working on the transmission tonight. Pulled the second hub using the converted 3 jaw puller but without the Jaws. Put them in between two subs that are bolted altogether with 5 bolts and it comes off very nicely. Okay maybe not very nicely. It comes off. I removed the brake assembly and input pulley. Scraped down the largest parts of the grunge and dirt and pulled all four of the seals out. Ready for degreasing and soon paint.

Wonder if that's what was making all the noise?

Here you go Tank If you can find the 1156 in the lower 3 or 4 k color the better. the 5/6 k colors can glare with snow for winter work. If not a winter tractor go with 5/6 as they seem to be brighter

This list will give you some guidance on what will fit.

At least the muffler is pointed away from it!

Take the small wire on the battery side of the solenoid run it to an in line fuse of 25 amps then to the + terminal on the ammeter. Then a wire from the - ammeter terminal (they are marked) to the B ignition switch terminal. if the ammeter is bad and since it was bypassed I would be suspect then nothing will work. Ammeters are cheap i would buy a new one before I rewired

Dang!! I live about 5 minutes from that auction site . And i just happen to have that week off from work. Think i might make that!!

The current going from battery to amp meter, is fused because it is the main power supply. ALWAYS have a fuse on the main power as close to the battery as possible. That fuse is dimensioned to the whole systems use. IE light, relays, ignition etc. It is dimensioned so everything can run simultaneous, but not much more. The amp meter do not use any power almost. It just measures the flow thru it, to the ign switch, which distributes it out to different sources. Proper fusing is then done by adding smaller fuses on each power output from the ign switch. That way you protect the smaller wires and smaller consumers. Think car fuses. There is a main (or more) fuse, and then there is a fuse box with a bunch of smaller fuses. They are all powered from the main fuse. That way, if your power window shorts out, the car will not catch fire because there is a 100 amp fuse as only protection, and it will still function as normal, because all the other stuff still has their fuses, and therefor still works. Same same on your garden tractor, although the shorter route is sometimes taken even from factory. That does not make it correct though! Put fuses on as a mad man. It can't hurt nothing. Use as small a fuse as possible to get best protection. How to size the fuse? Well if you are sure the wires are more than adequate to handle the consumer (lights etc.) then the only thing you need is to find the watts being used, and then select a fuse accordingly. Example: Lights 2x30w front , and 2x10W rear. That's 80 watts. Then you want a little bit for lights in meters, loss in switches and relay and so forth. Lets make it a 100 watt total. Then you would put a margin of at least 10% on, to take care of low voltage situations and spikes etc. That's 110 watts. Divide by 12 volts, and you find that the closest size fuse up, is a 10 amp. If you do not know how much power the consumer uses, then go small, and if it blows, go one larger, until you have found the right size.

Good to hear you're making Headway with that. Not in any way doubting your expertise or opinion but what is it that makes you think your ground wire is defective? Keep in mind we keep bringing up the ground for a reason. That is a DC circuit. Direct current. Your grounds have to be in excellent condition or you will not have Any circuit. Before you go by any new parts, take it out and carefully clean any mounting points and ground surfaces and reinstall it just to check that it isn't actually just dirty. Sounds silly but I've literally had it happen to myself.

Nice tractor.

I don’t understand what you just said...

I'm sure you do realize that she probably has a lot better fashion sense and also Common Sense than you do. Such is the case with mine as well. Still, not going to stop me.....

Just like the leprechaun says, “It’s magically delicious “ 👍 gets better everyday.

@mhlmeader to ! Eau Clair, I believe is home to an upcoming Wheelhorse parts auction, the 11th of next month I think I read on here somewhere... great time to be stocking up on future projects! Nice RJ, by the way!

Went and picked up this c101 yesterday from its original owner. It came with a deck snow cab, snow blower, and two sets of tire chains for $350. It was on that offer up site for almost 4 months!

I agree the wheel could be wider, but it's what I had. I'll see how it goes and keep an eye out for a wider one.

Yes, I truly enjoyed it. Funny thing, neighbor now would like me to plow a little larger area for him. He was "shocked, that little tractor did so well".

And a lotta bacon. I needed the tilt trailer.

Wired up today, started her up running good. Went out for a test run. Few odds and ends to finish up.

Rather interesting reading that. Several differences to ploughing in and Not just the way we spell plow/plough either. Over here, if in competition, you'd only plough about 5 - 6 inch deep. For GT's, walk behinds. Also when you have turned the ground/sod, no grass or stubble should be showing. The Brinly ploughs seem to give a wider furrow as well. I use a plough off an Auto Culto walk behind. Ploughs a slightly narrower furrow. Unfortunately, courtesy of Photobucket, some of my photo's are unobtainable. This is my tractor I use for ploughing. The Black Horse. '78 C-121 12hp. The three striped poles, are sighting poles. First goes in front of the tractor. 2nd half way down the plot and the other at the far end. All in line. When you cut your first furrow you keep your eyes fixed on them. Looking neither left or right. Having someone remove them as you get up to them. Don't look behind on the move. You can pull the steering wheel and put you off course. Narrow front wheels. Modified scooter ones on trailer hubs on modified spindles. Rear wheels narrowed and fitted with 7.00 x 12 ags. Due to the 7.00's being two inch bigger in OD, the fender has been lifted an inch and the front spindles extended an inch where they fit into the axle. Home made wheel weights. Basically Land Rover Freelander brake drums filled with lead. About 53lb. It also has an electric lift for the hitch. A bit slow. May be modified at some future time. There are threads on myoldmachine on all these mods and more. Plus others of ploughing matches. If I knew how to put up links I would. Finally a photo of number three grandson. Ploughing with a friends tractor and Ransomes drag plough. That ground was very hard. My plough wouldn't touch it. The much heavier Ransomes cut in well.