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Well, it's mowing season once again... definitely my favorite time of the year as I get more seat time. I got my two worker horses out last week for maintenance and first round of mowing. Mowed again today for their second round of mowing duty this year. The grass always seems to be greener on my side of the fence. When I get my horses out, all of my neighbors' deeres and cubs run back into their sheds and hide. Just can't say enough about these old Wheel Horse garden tractors... still run great after all these years. My primary worker 1995 314-8... I stole this one about six years ago, local craigslist find... only paid $500 for this tractor with mowing deck and single stage snow blower. This is my really nice 1967 model 857 that I bought from Bob Maynard three years ago.

Thanks to everyone for the Birthday wishes. Turns out Paul @pfrederi and Jim @WHX17 were right on the money with their wishes of another , or two. Monday I had a project wrapping up at my church and was working with a member I hadn't gotten too know before. The conversation while working along came around to (amazing, I know) and he said his neighbor had one that he just couldn't get running so he wanted to sell it. Long story short I checked it out and now own a '69 Charger which will probably be a parts tractor, I will know more once I attempt to get it running! Also, @12 hp Kohler had a "Roller" that we struck a deal on so it was a Birthday.

Picked up some 'barn finds' last week: a 1988 518H, a 1990 520H with swept axle, a 1992 520H 'roller' with reduction steering, three decks, and a plow. None have run in 2 to five years. I'm hoping to get one or two running tractors out of them, and probably part out the leftovers. If I can get the 18hp running, I might put it on one of the 520s. But I'm running into a difference in the wiring from 1988 to 1992. The 518 has a starter solenoid, and the 520 has relays or direct wiring to the starter. I've downloaded and studied the wiring diagrams, but the 500 series tractors are MUCH more complicated than the Kohler single cylinders that I've worked on before. Anyone have experience putting an older 18hp onto a newer 520H ? If the 18hp Onan doesn't run, I might go with a HF Predator, but I would lose some of the features of the 520. Any advice much appreciated. Jim

I have used many different spray guns, Binks, DeVilbiss, Sharpe. These are all higher end spray guns and all do a great job. I purchased a HF gun to use as a primer gun and liked it so well that I now use it for painting. Here's a link.https://www.harborfreight.com/20-fl-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html When you compare the HF price to a professional gun, you could almost just throw the HF guns away after each job. The main thing with any gun is to keep it clean!!! The best gun in the world will not spray well if it is dirty or plugged. I've also had some trouble with the cup leaking on my HF gun. I found that I had not cleaned the threads on the cup & cap well enough the last time that I used it. Removed every stich of paint from the cup & cap and no longer had a leaking issue. I've used my HF gun for about 5yrs now, still works great.

First off down load a Kohler manual, there are free ones on this site. The manual is crucial especially if you have never rebuilt a Kohler. Before you buy any parts disassemble the engine, measure the bore or take it to a machine shop to have it measured. If it is out of specs ( size / out of round) it will need to be bored. A machine shop should be able to tell you how far they will have to bore it out to get it correct. Judging by your pic I'm almost positive that you will need to have it bored. Also measure or have the crank measured at the rod pin. If the crank is worn you may have to have the crank turned and go with an under sized rod. Once you have your measurements then you can order your parts. Take your piston with when you have your parts machined so that they have it to size the cylinder correctly. Here is one source for rebuild kits. Kits go from $420 and under for OEM and $90 and under for aftermarket. http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_rebuild_kits.htm

You will most likely need to have it bored completely rebuilt. Very seldom does the hone and rering deal work very well. Once you are done, you will have a motor that will last quite some time!

Got the out front deck installed today. It’s works well even lacking the gauge wheels. It cut very well and it reached far under the trees. I was also able to reach areas into a drainage ditch that typically requires a string trimmer. The only drawback is when I put it into the shed. It’s rather long and I’m afraid that it’s novelty will wear off soon when I need space. Im thinking that the room it takes up is a deal breaker for me. It may need a new home.

I have never used a HVLP gun but may buy one based on reports from friends that use them. I have four Binks knock-off guns that were purchased in the '70s. One has never been used for anything but clear lacquer and has a special clear nozzle. It may never be used again because it is hard to justify the cost of lacquer today. One is only used for primer and it shows. The others have been kept clean in spite of a variety of colors be run through them over the yeas. Cleanliness is the key to success, this is especially important if you are using a catalyzed hardener with your enamel. The entire gun needs to be spotless before the paint kicks or it will never be the same.

Got up ealry and started painting my RJ redo again. Painted another RJ gas tank and the frame which I had sandblasted and primed yesterday!

I am considering selling my 704 rat build. Has excellent running single yank start Wisconsin and a very clean 8 speed. If purchased ahead of time, I will drag to the big show in June. Asking $700 obo. There is a thread on here on this build. Please note that the current solid pan seat is not included with sale. I will include one like it with the holes in the pan.

it's tight in there, but now the front cylinder is plumbed in need to start the hitch next...

The overbore is going to depend upon cylinder wear and to a degree the machine shop. At one time around here it seems like one didn't like to go .010 with a boring bar but if they use like a Sunnen CK 10 type machine it is very doable. I have opened my own to .010 over with what is called a rigid hone by starting at the bottom where it is still round an working to the top. Frequent checking with bore gave I required not for everyone though. Best left to the machinist though.

After it stopped snowing Saturday, I took the rear chains and roller chains off the 68 Commando 8, and changed the dozer blade over to the 36" mower deck. Changed the oil and greased the tractor and checked the lube. It's ready for lawn duties.

My neighbor and I welded up the Wheelie bars and the front weight bar. I started priming the tins a few days ago. Hopefully the paint comes in tomorrow and I can get painting. She’s starting to look like something.

I spent some time during off season and restored the old girl she will out last me. I have a 416-8 and I love this one. I don't see many around well not here in Va.

@Achto is right as well, different shops like to do things differently. Some want to finish bore it to match the piston, others the other way. As long as they stand behind their work, it should be all good!! Randy

Up date. Mower is up and running again I guess the screws were backed out enough on the pump so it wouldn't pump fuel. Strange. No oil leaking from the gasket.

Got everything back on my 246H on Sunday. Was a little late when I finished and the weather was garbage yesterday so I waited til today to start it. Fired on the second crank an it sounds sooooo smooth. Pretty happy with it as this is the first time I've done engine work like this. I ended up setting the smoke alarm off in the garage from all the oily dirt burning off the exhaust, lol. Other than that, no issues. Hat tip to @Docwheelhorse for all the advice he gave me while working on this.

I've used the bottle jack with success a few times, I started with a 2 ton bottle jack like yours and the relief valve kicks in. I then went to a 6 ton and broke a threaded rod!!! However last week it wasn't going to work, so I went back to basics. A big disc was used to make sure all was spread equally across the bolts holes, then a traditional puller. Heat the hub in order to help, then tighten up and strike the end of the puller with a hammer. Shock is the only way on some of them to break the bond, this tranny had been in a fire and left outside for 3 years so was never going to come apart easily...

Steve: I had one four times as large for many years and it still looked like this!

Good lesson for anyone considering the purchase is a Chinese carburetor. Always look for one that advertises SAE (American) threads and correct choke. Not only are the screws metric on most imports, but so is the inlet for the fuel. Many have the choke lever backwards as well.

They're likely tapped metric. You could bring the carb to the hardware store and get some correct fasteners.

Thanks to all it is my second one I have restored. This 101 is my favorite. I did a 312-A and my neighbor at the lake wanted it so I sold it. Funny he mowed grass with it come over and gave me cash. Here is the 312-A. Thanks to all

Wow beautiful job! The 1978-79 C-series are my favorite! I have six of them. Here's two of them. C-161 8-Speed and C-121 automatic

Ok I joined up after realizing my error! Well worth the money for the help!

Now we are getting somewhere...there is absolutely no way both wheels would spin at the same time with an 8 pinion differential. If both actually did try to spin at the same time and did for a couple of seconds....congratulations...you are the proud owner of a 10 pinion Limited Slip differential...maybe with a weak spring. I am going to tell you something about differentials. If you put your rear end on blocks and put the trans in gear with the engine running...let's try 1st gear first...one or both tires will spin. You can grab one of the tires and the other one will spin...you can then let go of that tire and go to the other side and grab that tire and hold it, and the other tire will spin. That is how a regular transmission works. Now picture that the tire that is turning is on the ice and the other is on concrete. An 8 pinion differential is going to sit there and spin all day. The 10 pinion LS differential should start the tire on the concrete spinning along with the one on the ice, thus moving the horse from being stuck. So...if you have the 10 pinion...when you grab one of the wheels...you should not be able to hold it from spinning (if it is working properly). Remember, it is Limited Slip...not Posi-traction like in a Pontiac. The sure way to find what you have...open the transmission and stop screwing around...then you can clean it, replace worn parts and have a horse that will last you another 50 years. I'll wager 99% chance you have a 10 pinion LS differential. Here is a video of the 10 pinion Limited Slip differential.

I know it has been a while since Henry was last on here, but now that spring is finally here, Henry is Horsing around again! Here he is, plowing up the pumpkin patch this past afternoon.

I used Vaseline on the rubber and it helped me get it in without any problem.

Nowadays with the aftermarket pistons, ALWAYS have the machine shop tell you what size piston to buy. NEVER let a shop bore your cylinder without the piston. While the quality of the pistons is still good, sizing has lost a bit in the quality control department. Recently had one come in that was .0025 undersized from where it should be. Fortunately, I have a top notch engine machinist who knows what he is doing and always relays to me anything out if spec. and compensates appropriately. Do some homework and find a GOOD machine shop. It pays in the end.

I am lucky and have not had to rebuild one of my kohlers, but the going word is that the aftermarket is OK. I believe Stens is what most are using and if you take it to a machine shop, they can measure and advise on what it needs. Most shops will want to bore it before you buy parts, that way you get the correct piston. Sometimes it takes more to clean it up than what you think it will. I would have the rod machined for a bearing while your at it. And if it has plastic governor gears, get them too. A machine shop will probably have a preference on what parts work and can help you with that. I work in a body shop and been doing autoglass for over 30 years. Aftermarket parts have come a long way since the early years, most parts are pretty good. Randy

Happy Birthday Richard and many many more!

I haven’t done the swap, but if you need wiring I’m gona be taking it off mine soon. I think it’s a 91 or 92, need to look at serial again. It does have the relays, you mentioning in reminded me. Going with a diesel so wiring work anyways lol.

Today a 516h followed me home. The body work is straight, the paint is shiny, and it has 495 hours on it. But, the fuel line is hard and cracked, but it will run as long as fuel is being dribbled down the carb. The tires are old and hard too. It does have the limp-wristed, metrosexual Eaton 700 as an excuse for a transmission, so it isn’t good for anything other than mowing the lawn, but at least I got a 42” rear discharge deck out of the deal!

I have the deck mounted, and now when moving, and the deck engaged, it no longer surges. Now we just need some grass to mow!

Your fuel cap has a vent in it. If the vent is plugged the tank will develop a slight vacuum as the fuel level goes down and the pump can't overcome it. You can tighten it up like @Achto suggested and if the problem pops up then take a look at the cap.

The last two weeks we have been splitting time between our new home in VA, and finishing the little to-do projects before going on the market with our MD house. Juno has been helping me navigate the drive! It must be the breed as she stood by my shoulder for looking out the windshield most of the way for the 181 mile trip. Mrs. Sailor has to drive by herself. Whittling the collection of tractors has been an interesting exercise. Different scenarios of equipment needed depended on which house would be our new one. Properties that we looked at ranged from 3-1/4 acres down to 0.4 acre, which is what we chose. After the choice was made in January, I have been divesting of the equipment that was used on our current wooded two acres. With only four trees compared to our grove of over 300, the log splitter, chainsaws, chipper/shredder, etc have been sold off. The primary tractors at the MD house have been my three 5xi. But I have decided that my three Black Hoods are better suited to the new house. Ironically the 1980 C-145 will become the primary mower at the new house - and the 1998 518xi will move on to another owner. The C-145 will receive a rebuilt engine and general refurbishment. In the meantime one of the other two Black Hoods will temporarily take over.

Thanks so much Karl, greatly appreciate your friendship also..... to answer you question I never heard anything from the Navy.....

Hopefully its a good thing and NOT something bad is gonna happen. Maybe time to buy a lottery ticket!! On a off topic note, I see you have a VAC Case. I have one too, hope I get it back together one of these days! Randy

I love the part about your dog. Dogs are awesome!

First mowing at the lake and as usual the little commando performed magnificently. Amazing how this 50 year old rear discharge deck still cuts like new. Love love love my Wheel Horse.

Playing on a wind farm at the moment - things have been a bit interesting, to say the least with the up/down weather. Yesterday did not go well at all - I'm usually "The Target" flagging traffic, but got roped into helping get some equipment moving again which went south pretty quickly. Took 8 semi loads of clay to fix the soft spots... My usual office position - these rural country roads and landscape can be both boring and terrifying at the same time, local folks fly through here regularly without warning and a lot of small hills. Nothing like being dead quiet for awhile waiting for more trucks, then some nut goes by at 70mph...lol. Sarge

Here's a couple pics of my Mig welding at work today, single pass vertically, that 480v sure is sweet to use, another thing to watch is your "heat signature" as it will tell you whether you are getting good "penetration" vs just "beading" on, top of what you're welding, Jeff.

I may bring some like this also.

If you were referring to the Palomino I think @Jjohnny1 has one. Send him a PM.

Card # 1 AMC Rules Card # 2 Stevebo & Brennanbo Card #3 953 nut Card # 4 Squonk Card # 5 Vinylguy Card # 6 Sparky-(Admin)

Picked up at the big 2014 WHCC show... bought from my new Indiana connection.

Thanks Lane, you're the best. :thumbs: