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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    I picked up this 1974 C-160 awhile back, I got it to pull the 16hp Kohler for a different mower project, but as time passed I had to bring this baby back to life! Add Ons 16HP Briggs Vanguard V-twin Wheel Horse Plow 5.25" Pulley Off a Hydro Plow/Hitch bracket from Ebay user randy3501972 (thanks if you're on here!) Homemade trailer, can be pulled by tractor, or can load tractor in trailer and pull with truck. Bench seats double as loading ramps. Cheers, Who else has a winter project going?
  2. 16 points
  3. 7 points
  4. 5 points
    The RJ fuel tank isnot an easy item to come by. I have however found a few usable ones by looking for vintage go kart fuel tanks. Some are identical to the RJ tank and they do show up once in a while.In the two in the photo , the tanks is exactly the same size and bung location are within 1/2" of RJ tank. Drain holes are also close but those are not as critical.Filler neck is identical in one and slightly higher in the other( its actually a better one to use). I tried them and they work great. These particular two are flawless inside and out .
  5. 5 points
    A few years back i bought an used one that pump was shot.Upon doing research on pumps and how to improve it, here is what I came up with, and it has worked flawlessly for years. I use Kerosene with a bit of water mixed in. I use a drum underneath it as the reservoir .Fluid drains to drum and its pumped back into it with a fuel submersible Little Giant pump. It is filtered on its way up to tank using an auto filter. When not in use after a while the heavier water helps push dirt and sediment to bottom where it stays. Pump is set above the water level in the kerosene. I can after a few days as needed shut the drain valve from the top tank and pump the clean kerosene into it. I then clean the bottom drum of the dirty water with all of the sludge, add another gallon of water and let the kerosene back down to normal re circulation. Drum has roughly 9 gallons of kerosene and one gallon of water. The fact that top container is continuously draining allows me to use entire tank for cleaning without item being submerged in fluid.Not having the pump in there also increases work space. I have now used the same kerosene for about 4 years with just a little replenishment once in a while. Pump was a bit expensive but it is nearly indestructible with plenty of pressure. I can also adjust pressure by partially closing valve into the tank.
  6. 4 points
    Today I made a few changes to the 1257. Gt14 intake, had to lower the lights for it which look better to me. I know it's early and February but I took the plow off and put on the sickle bar. Trying to rush winter to be over. Plus I miss the look of it, but definitely didn't miss putting it on... awkward lol.
  7. 4 points
    chrisg i used chrome drain tail pieces, cutoff the ends, perfect size to slide over muffler! http://www.truevalue.com/product/Plumbing/Drain-Parts-Repair/Drain-Tubes-Fittings-Metal/Sink-Drain-Direct-Connect-Waste-Arm-Chrome-Plated-1-5-x-15-In-/pc/15/c/219/sc/1822/92697.uts
  8. 4 points
    Your hose end swivels that are leaking are crimped on and you would have to cut them off. After that the hose would be too short. Also they are probably SAE #5 O ring Boss (ORB) fittings. Finding hose end 90 degree swivels is near impossible ( I have been looking for 3-4 years now) SAE#5 fell out of favor many years ago.. You have to use adapters like SAE #5 ORB to JIC 37 Flare male. Then a JIC 37 female hose end. As pointed out by Richard above, Lowell has figured that out and would be the best way to continue.
  9. 4 points
    In both cases I thing Lowell @wheelhorseman will be your best bet for repair parts.
  10. 4 points
    I have done 3 of them. They were soldered and that is how I did the replacements.It was relatively simple and all three wee successful on the first try with no leaks. The fact that the replacements I found were the exact size made it also easy.
  11. 3 points
    Given the fact that you already retapped the hole to 9/16 - 18 I would install a 9/16 bolt with a crush washer (copper or brass). This will seal it up for you.
  12. 3 points
    Might not get that one back. Very nice meeting your son and making it happen. Will be watching to see what happens with it.
  13. 3 points
    My Son and @19richie66 Richie made this deal happen for me. Richie asked if I was interested in this Ranger and some other parts and a K301. Richie went above and beyond to work out the logistics to get this to me. I could not meet him but my Son didn't mind making the 2.5 hour one way trip to meet Richie. Now I just have to convince my Grandson it needs Grandpa's tlc.
  14. 3 points
    Fine looking young man on the seat...
  15. 3 points
    You might be right on that call. Glenn
  16. 3 points
    He's just a newbie? Could be that as well. You really want another ? I really do have a Raider in need of an engine and TLC. Oldman
  17. 3 points
    Stepping back, I think it's just likely that he's new. Even so, where did that $.93 come from? Glad I let this one slide by!
  18. 3 points
    Looks like someone's already called "dibs".
  19. 3 points
    If you plan to mount a tiller or blade (front or mid mount) that requires an axle bracket you will need a plug that ends up flush with the bottom of the transaxle.
  20. 3 points
    Every two piece transmission I open gets a front drain hole & magnetic plug. 3/8ths NPT. I use the square head plug and drill a 1/8" hole in it and JB well a cheapy ebay magnet in it.
  21. 3 points
    There you go. Very clever. Like they say necessity is the mother of invention.
  22. 3 points
    Yeah real good info there fellas. I go through a alot of these cans. They are a tad short tho. Let me know if there's a need for them I will start hoarding empties!
  23. 3 points
    I ended up doing some investigation and found the lid of a PVC primer can is the identical opening that is on my RJ gas tank. I soldered it on and it works perfectly.
  24. 3 points
    The drain plug hole was tapped for 1/4 NPT (National Pipe Thread) not 9/16 -18. NPT is tapered 9/16 -18 is straight thread To seal you will need tapered threads or some sort of gasket n a very short 9/16 -18 Bolt EDIT:: Drill the hole out to 9/16" then buy or borrow a 3/8NPT pipe tap (Cheapies are abut $10 good ones about $35) and thread it then get a 3/8" plug
  25. 3 points
    It looks sad to be leaving home, see the tear stained window!
  26. 3 points
    could be he's just a dummy....... Oldman
  27. 3 points
    It's a lot about values - not that today's generations don't have them, but they don't take those values as seriously as the older generations that lived through those times. When I was young we were corrected away from disrespectful behavior quickly, not just by parents , but everyone and anyone. Parents did their job better - that's obvious. Now they let social media teach their kids, bad idea and lazy in a way on their part. I don't think he understood what he was doing - although anyone from the older generations never would have done such a thing - it was a value taught deeply to them when they were young and these days things are a lot less stern in how they are taught. I'm glad he won - he's done such an amazing job and has tried to represent his country in his way, the other stuff is noise until the courts decide - who knows. Personally - if those athletes want to display their flag at the end of a competition that's fine - but do it with a small one on a stick , don't wrap a 3x5 around yourself like some cape of a trophy - to me you didn't earn it . Sarge
  28. 3 points
    i actually just finished this same process last month. I have a walker mower that popped the magnum 16. The magnums 16s are like a unicorn to find, so I got a K341, bored it from age, and swapped it all over. Using some advice via gardentractor pulling tips, i didnt use the balancer gears because like he said, they explode and this is what did my magnum 16 in. I also had to cut down the block where oil pan mounted to make it a narrow base. All in all, it worked out well.
  29. 3 points
    Correct - Lowell does have the swivel #5 ORB ends, or did the last time we communicated via messenger. New hoses and a valve rebuild kit will stop those issues. I replaced the hoses on my 16 Auto years ago - now the valve itself is leaking pretty good and I have to get a kit to rebuild it from Lowell myself - keep forgetting to order one. When I did the hoses I used (4) #5 ORB to JIC straight adapters and ran straight end hoses off the valve side. The ones that supply the valve off the transmission can be tricky since they are the 90* swivel type and there isn't much room to the fender on the 16 Auto - they really need to be 90* directly off the hose with no adapter. Can't recall now what is on the cylinder lines at the cylinder end right , think one was straight and the other 45* or something...I can look later on today. Sarge
  30. 3 points
    I have a GT1100 setting in my bone yard. It did run when parked but was weak. I can try to take a few pics today of the carburetor and linkage assy. I can sell your some of the parts if you need them. let me know I added these pictures, probably not much help. If you need me to I can take it apart.
  31. 3 points
    First of all find a new mechanic. Governors are stupid easy to put back together, so why this guy couldn’t figure it out who knows. Look for an engine manual, you will prolly be able to put it together yourself...
  32. 3 points
    We don't ever say Craig is right around here Don........ he has a tendency to get a big head !
  33. 2 points
    @953 nut your going to have to change my sign to 24 days of experience. I'm trying some new designs for the seats. This one only took me 8 hours to cut and figure out how to sew it. I don't know if i want to make it again. If I sold it I'd have to ask $25000.00 for it. I like to sew these seats. This is just the seat and I have to add side panels and back yet. Came out very cool.
  34. 2 points
    Great find and idea for a not so easy to remedy common problem. If Moderators are watching this thread should be moved to Instructional threads and videos or pinned here so everyone can see it and benefit from it.
  35. 2 points
    If you cant find them , its because there is already a big stash here.
  36. 2 points
    Yes, I left about an 1/8" flange at the bottom which kept it in shape. I then tinned both the top of the tank and the new neck. I used the typical acid plumbing flux and 50/50 solder with a good size soldering iron.
  37. 2 points
    Now that you have divulged your secret stash we will all be out there bidding against you.
  38. 2 points
    Need to clear a couple things up. You say pump to the housing...did you mean hydro motor?? You have a separated system. The motor attaches to the transaxle. Which bearing is messed up in the picture here? (I hope it isn't 4-18) Is it on the hydro motor end of 4-32 the "gear Shaft" EDIT: The broken bearing was it open or closed on one end?????
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    The red washer will go on the nut that holds the float bowl on. Be sure to soak the carb. in some Barryman's Carb. Cleaner (get it at any auto parts store or even Wallyworld) and blow out all of the passages. There are some extremely small passages that will foul up a carb. if not cleaned.
  41. 2 points
    I guess it is clear what to do then Thanks good folks.
  42. 2 points
    I got the New carb cleaned out, sprayed out, and blown out... adjusted both butterflies. ... and reassembled. Thanks to all who've given a tip or two there. I won't have time to fiddle with this for a few days. I have a house appraiser arriving Tuesday and theres a couple things to button up before then. Maybe that afternoon I'll work on getting the breather reassembled and put the carb back on.
  43. 2 points
    It may take me a while to find it. I kind of found it by accident a couple of years ago. It was basically a simple website with a PDF list on it. Seems run by a single guy. I called in the order and when received you send him the payment (Incredible now a days). With the order he sent me a small catalogue that I know it is here somewhere. Having said all of that, I bought 6 necks and caps. I used 3 necks and all of the caps. I have 3 necks left. Haven't had a need for them since . I like to have these things around that is why I never get one of anything, however if any one is desperate for them (I know that when you need this there is nothing else that will fix it) I am willing to part with them. There will be no charge, they were ridiculously inexpensive. First come first serve basis of course.One per call so others can save their tanks.
  44. 2 points
    You could but that is a 45 year old tractor. I would want to be sure the Hydro was in near perfect condition before I dropped the big bucks for a loader. Loader work is stressful on hydros and trannies in general.
  45. 2 points
    First, NEVER go back to that shop! Withe these manuals for your tractor and engine you or friend should be able to get it back together.
  46. 2 points
    Both of those files are correct. The Dozer blade can fit on an RJ with a special mount. The normal mount is for the suburbans 400,550,401 and 551 Harrow Disc is a rare item
  47. 2 points
    Walked into the shop today, to find these laying next to the trash. Seems they were ballast in the bottom of old standing job site lights. Looked like free wheel weights to me...feel about 50#'s each. but, of course, the bolt holes aren't spaced wide enough to fit our rims. At three inches thick, think a local machine shop would drill these out for me?
  48. 2 points
    Sure, just needs it's own pump... Mine is on a C160- 8. 10h.p. may be a little on the lite side....
  49. 2 points
    Thats the first thing I thought of Dan ... getting the right combo of flux, heat, solder and clean metal would be tricky but doable. 'specially with a tank that Lane piced. A couple of the tanks that I messed with that's what appeared how the 1/8 npt bottom bung was attached? Or brazed??? Bet a good welder could tig one in? Maybe overlay a good base sheet metal to get back into a good area of the tank Lane
  50. 2 points
    When draining the transmission be sure to jack up the front end. There is a hump in the middle of the casting that will prevent some of the old fluid from emptying.
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