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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    A while back I was the happy recipient of a 1995 312-8. The engine had a very bad wobble, so it sat parked. Recently I obtained another Magnum 12 which runs perfectly so I switched. Later today the 312 will be setup with my older (1994) 42" RD deck and will begin lawn duty. It looks like it got a little sun bleached, but very little surface rust!
  2. 9 points
    I knocked down some weeds this past weekend and Pop had to have some seat time, he had a great time and I got a break to stretch
  3. 8 points
    I found this 854 hood at a junk sale and couldn't leave it there. It was the only item there, figured I'd better save it.
  4. 8 points
    Finally got the deal complete with Lane Ralph on this nice B-80. The Haban sickle bar is amazing. The engineering that went in to this small piece of equipment back in the day is awesome. Still working out a few bugs but got it going. Needed a throttle cable and lever which was a fairly easy swap. Removed the front plate that covers light bucket hole and will install the light bucket and nice original lens without any cracks. Major item that needs attention next is head gasket. Not excited about that since my past experience has not been good with head bolts. Will hopefully get to use the sickle bar tomorrow evening. P.S. IF anyone feels lead to come help change the heaf gasket, please feel free to do so.
  5. 6 points
    here's what my road trip brought me back today a pretty good conditioned 953 has brand new rear tires tin is in pretty good shape...........will have to go over it so far the steering is loose and noticed bolts that need to be retightened gas line will need to be changed new battery installed also do to my size of me will really have to modify the seat way back in tool spot area some how LOL but all in all i'm a 953 clubber now also got these attachments
  6. 6 points
    I use Berryman's carb cleaner, about $20 per gallon, can be bought at Wal-Mart. This stuff will clean every thing off of an old carb. An important note: Make sure that you do not leave any thing that is not made of metal on the carb, it will be gone after soaking your carb.
  7. 6 points
    How big a box is needed to ship a 1" long choke link? This is a little excessive in my opinion. Box is 9.5 X 6.75 X 3" It only cost me $7.95 to ship the $13.34 part. The price was ridiculous at any rate but I lost the original. In my mind I would have thought if Jacks wanted to maximize profits they could have put it in a padded envelope. .
  8. 6 points
    MTD ( est. 1932, Modern Tool & Die Company, near Cleveland Ohio ) does make a lot of different products and is huge, they make Cub Cadet, Bolens & Troy-Bilt tractors as well as YardMan, they are a "contract manufacturer". Over the past years MTD has been subcontracted to make models of garden tractors for many other companies for a year or two, MTD can make very cheap models or very good quality models, it's all what the company ordering them wants to pay. MTD doesn't sell or have a retail outlet system so all their tractors are sold via someone else, and those box-stores need their markup. I'm not aware of Wheel Horse ever having whole tractors made there, but MTD did make parts for WH; also, in the mid-60's Wheel Horse did have the John Deere Company make complete mower decks for them for some models for a couple of years until the WH factory got geared up (decks were Red & to exact WH specifications, can't tell apart).
  9. 5 points
    Okay, sorry if I got you J-D fans stirred up for nothing. Ran across my latest project on CL today after ignoring it for quite some time, just because of the name and the colors I failed to open the link. Well, I clicked on the link today and was shocked by what I saw. A 22hp Kohler horizontal shaft V-twin driving an Eaton 11 hydro via drive shaft to a 2 speed Peerless differential. All of this combined with a 3 point cat 0 hitch, front and mid pto's, 27X9.50-15 rear tires and 1" front spindles! What is it? An MTD!!! The CL ad read "Yard Man tractor for sale" and indeed that is what it was but unlike any I had ever seen or was expecting. Just hauled it home this afternoon and after fluid changes and a tune up I'll get started on the cosmetics including a new low-back seat (black) and some olive paint to cover up the yellow, the decals are going away. All of the sheet metal is straight and the dash is in good condition which is a huge plus. It ain't gonna' be pretty but should be quite a worker.
  10. 4 points
    The rust can be fixed. Nobody is making any new 854 hoods. Did I ever mention my soft spot for the 854? lol
  11. 4 points
    pictures as promised of the pulley before and after. Hopefully this helps others in their quest. The bearings measure 1" OD 3/4" ID .5" width. My friend had a sleeve of bearings on hand that were .6" width and they worked fine. The diagram and parts list are accurate down to the plastic seal which i was able to reuse as it was still in good shape. I'll post pics once reassembled and working. I want to do a quick check on the mower deck as well before operating this summer.
  12. 4 points
    TravelinJavelin For a 63 that was taken care of very well. A little polishing and she will look really good. Enjoy. T-Mo I have to agree. The back kind of looks like the old Case big wheel tractors my other favorite.
  13. 3 points
    You can use aircraft stripper to remove the old paint. This will speed things up but is not necessary. I sand aluminum with 180grit before finishing with self etching primer & then regular primer. After priming finish as you would with any other metal.
  14. 3 points
    Have had good luck using a self-etching primer sold by Rustoleum. It is a light olive green color. You don't want to break the surface so after it you can apply a red primer if you want to sand before the top coat. Garry
  15. 3 points
    Ignition power goes from the ignition switch to 1/2 of the pto switch. This is what powers the ignition when the pto is OFF. With the pto ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits. What year and model number? The early models are different. It may be an ignition switch failure. It is the I (eye) terminal that supplies the ignition circuit. Garry
  16. 3 points
    First time I have seen a tag mounted like that. Hood looks to be in good shape.
  17. 3 points
    5 WEEKS ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,time to look at your list,,!!!!!!! Being there and something left at home wont do it !!!!!! You need a list of going to it and a wants list~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Time to shine
  18. 3 points
    Great tractor you got there. Enjoy. and thanks for sharing the pictures.
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    I agree the Briggs low line engines are just that. Aluminum cylinder bore, aluminum crank bearings, cheap, cheap, cheap... A Briggs I/C motor on the other hand is built to last. Cast iron cylinder bore, roller bearings on the crank. They made engines as good or as cheap as their customer wanted. Unfortunately when some one gets a bad product, their opinion of that products brand name will stick with them a long time. While consideration for how much they paid for the product is soon forgotten. My shop motto is: All my work is done good, fast & cheap. You may pick any two of these choices. Note: fast & cheap may not be good.
  21. 3 points
    Nice score and a nice looking 953. I hope to be in the 953/1054 club soon myself. They are really cool looking tractors, in my opinion.
  22. 3 points
    Looking good, you can buy the head light covers from Glen Pettit
  23. 2 points
    Just picked up my new deck: Complete with Mule drive and belt! Now to pretty up the 416 so I can put 'er on!
  24. 2 points
    I'm sure this has nothing to do with a Wheelhorse or any attachment but I figured with all of the knowledge on this site somebody will have seen one of these before. I found this in the attic of a building we were cleaning out and nobody seemed to know what it was. Any ideas? Thanks, Craig
  25. 2 points
    I,ve used Berrymans for 30 years good stuff. If using on a carb rinse with hot soapy water rinse again clean water an blow out all passages.
  26. 2 points
    I use red oxide grit in my blast cabinet with a 100 psi compressor and blast everything steel. I agree with others and would not use a large industrial blaster on sheet metal. I use glass beads on aluminum heads, etc.
  27. 2 points
    Out of curiosity I did a search on and the address comes up being a vacant lot now. Too bad because if it was a going mower shop they would probably want that hood, big time.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    The first step in any electrical problem is to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. The charging system only charges the battery, they are not causing this. Chances are there is a connection that is coming loose and dropping the voltage to the coil. Not sure if your model has safety switches on the seat and PTO, but they could have a bad connection or one of them could be going bad. If you have the safety switches they should only be in play with the PTO on. Look around and see if any of the connections have a bad terminal also.
  30. 2 points
    Yeah I kinda wish it wasn't, cause of the holes. It's actually pretty rough, pics hide a lot of rust pits. But I was able to find an advertisement from the dealership
  31. 2 points
    The only thing I have used acetone for is cleaning up after doing fiberglass work. I think it is a lot more volatile evaporates real fast) and don't know if it would be any better, but I do know it cost about four times what lacquer thinner does.
  32. 2 points
    Bet one of them is for you to ride tandem with Van on the Bike! We never did get that picture last year. Is your family making the trip again Jay?
  33. 2 points
    I know everyone may not have access, but I glass bead blast my stuff and wire wheel the frame and transmissions. Glass beads are super soft and will not even damage aluminum.
  34. 2 points
    Thanks. I guess I should have just called you
  35. 2 points
    3/4 non bushed. Thats why I upgraded to 520 axle on my latest GT22-8 To get more beefy spindle.
  36. 2 points
    I was looking at this tractor also, and talked with the owner at length. This was his parents tractor and the starter went out years ago. The repair shop gave them a quote in the $$$'s for a new starter, and it simply was parked in the garage for years until the son decided he was tired of pushing it around and sold it. I am a little concerned when you state that it binds up. Rotate the engine and check condition of teeth on the flywheel through the starter opening to make sure no damage there. Most likely, the bearings and/or the casting bore for the shaft in the starter housing are worn out, and when torque is produced when trying to turn the motor, the starter internals are shifting and rubbing internally.
  37. 2 points
    Bad connection will do it. The rpm of the starter is what throws the Bendix gear into the flywheel. Dust and dirt on the armature shaft can slow down or prevent the Bendix gear from advancing to the flywheel also. When the flywheel speed exceeds the starter/Bendix gear speed it throws the Bendix gear back to the starter. The Bendix gear travels on a twisted spline of the armature. Garry
  38. 2 points
    Here is the ignition switch Good general info Ignition system is covered in this manual - Chapter 8 page 45 Garry
  39. 2 points
    Two tractor model numbers for 1986 - 21-12KE01 and 21-12KE02. These use a K301 engine with battery ignition. One model number for 1987 - 21-12KE03. This one uses a M12 engine with magneto ignition and has a low oil switch in the starter circuit. This 1987 8-Speed wiring should be the same except the clutch neutral switch will be the hydro transmission neutral switch The two years use different ignition switches so make sure you have the correct one. You do not want to release the magic smoke. The 1987 low oil switch has special instructions for removing the switch without damaging it. The 15 amp fuse powers the ignition switch. From the ignition switch already fused by the 15 amp fuse the 5 amp fuse powers the gauges and idiot lights. You may have the wrong ignition switch. Garry
  40. 2 points
    Yard-Man top end tractors were heavy duty, but I'd PAINT IT RED.
  41. 2 points
    Thanks Garry and others, I was able to remove the pulley tonight and verify that one of the bearings has blown apart. The shaft it rides on doesn't seem harmed, my father was pretty OCD with his grease regimen. I also noticed one of the two belts was slightly tighter than the other and may account for the blown bearing....that and age. I'm going to replace the belts and adjust accordingly after i get some new bearings and a grease seal. I'll post pics of the pulley and blown bearing tomorrow.
  42. 2 points
    I think it's used to hold an older sink to the wall.
  43. 2 points
    yes I've noticed that thank you 953 nut!
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Plus corporate policy for sure!
  46. 2 points
    My guess would be no oil , no gas , stuck in gear, Larry Moe and Curly enterprises.
  47. 2 points
    Chances are none of them knew enough to take it out of gear! In a few years when it quits it will take six sanitation workers to haul it off.
  48. 2 points
    Not saying this is a better solution to the pullers mentioned but I don't currently have one of those so it's the backyard mechanic way for me. I've had pretty good luck (After thoroughly soaking of coarse) by using a piece of pipe to knock the pulley towards the block (Assuming it's not already on as far as it will go). Usually a couple quick shocks with a hammer but nothing drastic enough to break something. This may seem counter productive since you're trying to get it off but once that bond is broken, they do come off easier. Some have to be knocked on then pulled a little, then back on, then pulled and so on until it comes off. Spray oil on there each time it moves and wipe the shaft clean of the rust. It's also good idea to completely remove all the set screws and spay whatever you're using in those holes too. That way it gets right to the shaft deeper in there. That might be when you find the second set screw under the first one once in a while!
  49. 2 points
    I would not SHOT blast the tins. The shot could damage the tins and create a rough surface. You would get a much better prep for painting with a sand or walnut shell media. The media will find it's way into all openings including around rubber axle and shaft seals, breather cover opening, points cover opening, steering shaft bushings, clutch cross shaft bushings. All plastic items , knobs, steering wheel, etc. need to be protected. I would be very leery of total blasting of an assembled tractor with out a tear down and thorough cleaning.
  50. 2 points
    I throw away lots of blades that are more worn at the lift area than the actual cutting area. And that is blades that hit many rocks and roots. Yes, my soil is basically pure sand and rock. I sharpen with a flap wheel in a mini-grinder. No need to get the edge razor sharp, just reasonably sharp and get the larger nicks out. Try and keep the bottom edge flat to keep the cut even. Check the blade for both balance and flatness. When blades are re-installed, I turn them to make sure they all line up flush with each other so they are all cutting the same height. If they are not flush then either the deck is bent or a spindle has shifted somehow (assuming the blades are not bent). Grease up the spindles and start mowing.
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