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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/25/2016 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    Sort of a "One Horse Open Sleigh". Actually 14 horses, I guess. I used Christmas decorating as an excuse to get out the 314. It made it much more enjoyable. My wife just shook her head.
  2. 12 points
    I made a pair of sweeps from angle iron and welded them onto my homebuilt ripper today. What a difference! The C160 auto didn't struggle a bit busting the ground up almost a foot deep. I love this beast!! Problem is the neighbors are asking me to bust plots for them. Thanks for the support and wisdom of all of you here. Mark.
  3. 11 points
    Here is my semi-restoration project. I Just cleaned mine up a little and stripped all the sheet metal and repainted it. I used IH red paint color. I purchased this 520H at an auction a year ago for$400 it has a rock solid 62" most deck. I also have a 2 stage blower for it. I am waiting for my new bar tires. Thought I would share it here
  4. 7 points
    SART and I went down to pool 4 Red Wing Mn. We had a pretty good time, caught alot af fish and 9 keepers from 16 to 20 inches
  5. 5 points
    Any is worth $100 IMO.
  6. 5 points
  7. 4 points
    I just stopped at bone yard. And there sat an electro one raider12 everything is there even hydraulics all tires up and good motor turned over an deck lying on the ground. would it be worth making an offer of say 100 or150. Hate to see it parted out. Thanks for reading this and give me your thoughts neat tractor. Tim. it,s also an auto. I got it story below. And it RUNS!!!!!
  8. 4 points
    Here you go...nice job...that's beautiful hope mine comes out that nice !
  9. 4 points
    while i like some patina , i see no reason to fake it....just leave it alone and use it and it will eventually have the look you want
  10. 4 points
    Gilson also made tractors for Montgomery Ward. If the blue & white colors are original, it might have had the Montgomery Ward name on it. Other MW equipment I have seen has been blue & white, while Gilsons that I have seen have been orange & white. But, as prondzy said, looks like it's definitely made by Gilson. The day is wasted if I don't learn something new. Jim
  11. 4 points
    Nope its a gilson c-10 google it. the belt guard with the center missing is a dead giveaway
  12. 4 points
    HAH!!! Why not?! But they will be changing my diaper someday!!! You game?? A good day. Happy son on my right and Son-in-law on my left and #1 Grandson getting broke in right. I guess you could call us the four horsemen! A very Happy Thanksgiving in Texas!
  13. 3 points
    Finally Project Jr. is drivable this it before we test drove this beast She is ready to go after he over 20 year nap. tommarow the decals,different muffler,tuning and get the steeing wheel to fit on. How do i get the wheel to fit on the steering shaft it stuck on there but i cant get it off.
  14. 3 points
    Picked up this lawn skiff for $50.00 but said it needs a coil,we'll see. Sorry about the cooked pictures.
  15. 3 points
    I'm not so sure that's ever been proven as being a constant. I do know there were problems with intake manifolds breaking and I believe the Kohler "fix" was to install the standard side draft Carter "N" & matching governor lever & link in place of the updraft Tillotson. Earliest versions did have a Fairbanks-Morse recoil vs. the Kohler recoil found on the later models.
  16. 3 points
    Thanks. It looks better than it is but it's functional. No. It only has a few hundred hours on it. It's my wife's.
  17. 3 points
    I remember being on all of those different yahoo groups before Red Square. It was a pain to keep up with all the different convo's regarding repair, parts, etc. I don't remember exactly when I learned about the Square but I remember what relief, knowledge and friendships it has created for me. I don't get on much anymore, life and health has got in the way of the Horse's. I still have about a dozen but don't spend as much time puttering with them. Also notice the date I joined, so I only get to celebrate it every 4 years. Still a great place with a great group of guys!!!
  18. 3 points
    Two of my best finds have been at junk yards. It's probably worth only $80 - $100 as scrap metal. Scrap metal prices are down. Buy it fast before someone else does. I'd offer $100, and be willing to pay a little more. Or just ask what they want for it. Good luck, Jim
  19. 3 points
    Got the throttle, clutch, and brake linkage worked out. Took a short test run. Everything worked, but I was running gravity fuel feed (no fuel pump) to the carb and the 321 was running out of fuel at WOT. So a $9.48 electric JUNGLE pump is coming on Tue. Now for the body work.
  20. 3 points
    Don't use any lube on the "brake" parts and make sure to apply a little blue thread locker to the center screw once you're sure everything works correctly. You'll have to hold the center screw from turning while pulling the rope & observing the pawl operation. Don't overtighten the center screw and do not pull the rope again until the thread locker has time to set. If the center screw loosens, the friction required to "kick out" the pawls will decrease. The pawls won't extend unless you quickly jerk the rope ~ and even that technique is not reliable. (and it makes you look like a rookie - LOL) The cast aluminum 4 bolt recoil found on the Tecumseh / Lauson engines in the 550/551/502/etc. models are getting tough to find replacement parts for.
  21. 2 points
    Dismantled the carb on my Commando-8 for a soaking in a gallon of carb cleaner last week but forgot to put aside the needle...so into the carb cleaner bucket it went. Looked ok when it came out so I reassembled it all and sure enough the rubber tip deteriorated and blocked up the seat. So off with the carb again, installed a new needle and seat (really pays off to have this stuff in stock) and she is running great! Nice way to spend Thanksgiving morning....( I was told to "Get outa my kitchen!")...so I obeyed . Took it for my first drive but the drive belt is so shot it won't power itself up even the lightest incline. Figuring out the belt size and finding a replacement is my next project. Mike.......
  22. 2 points
    Then she should be putting up the lights!
  23. 2 points
    Well I got the tachometer installed . I had to move the volt meter down on the plate and cut a hole in it . The tachometer was to long to mount on the plate. Not yet wired but what a job working in cramped space and on my knees. I will hurt for 2 days. Tomorrow I will fire it up after I double check all the wires are correctly installed.
  24. 2 points
    Scrap prices must be soaring in PA! I just got $450 for a 7500 pound Chevy C-60 flat bed that hasn't run since '96.
  25. 2 points
    I wasn't going to mount this one, but I had an old form, eyes, and ear liners ...so why not put him on the wall?
  26. 2 points
    That tag looks like it has a "1" superimposed over top of the "2", but it doesn't matter. Either a 2-1231 or 2-2231 would be a 1968.
  27. 2 points
    I finally got my raider 8 all ready for snow. I just put the wheel weights on tonight and yes they are jd wheel weights. Do you think I would need chains to blow snow. I'm not gonna be blowing a ton of snow maybe 6" at most. Who else is ready to blow some snow?!
  28. 2 points
    Ok guys. I tend to live by the "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion" theory. That may be because when I do read them I sometimes over complicate things. That's what happened here. I initially thought parts for this starter were no longer available but Craig set me straight on that. Then a few blurbs in the repair manual made me a bit gun shy. There was absolutely no reason to be. Here's how the disassembly went. Reassembly will be a while because I will be stripping and painting the case. This is really a very simple starter. Here's the backside. Simply remove the handle being careful of the spring tension. Pull the rope inside the housing and Hook it in the notch you see at about the 8 o'clock position on the pulley. That will allow you to unwind the spring. It was only wound two turns. Remove the bolt and you will see the pawls. Note the little spring and where it connects. The main spring will be exposed. This is where they say if you remove it you have to install a new one. Nope, not true. You can clamp the coil with some long nose vice grips near the ring on the post and work it out. The pawls lift right out. A good cleaning is in order here. The pulley is split and held together by these four bolts. It clamps and holds the end of the rope. This is where Kohler states to use only an original rope so it holds properly. A quality 7/32" rope will work fine. Don't try one of those cheapies at Walmart. My rope was in good shape until I saw the end. You can see it in the picture. You can also see where the spring connects on the pulley. Here's what a new spring looks like. That green ring holds it together until you install it. Ummmmmm, make sure you flip it over before installing it. Kohler springs as well as Stens and others are available. Even though I don't need one I wend ahead and ordered a Kohler just so I have it. It cost a bit more than a Stens but I just wanted the name. I'm sure you can all see how simple reassembly will be. When you put the pulley back on make sure the spring catch on the backside is a little more clockwise to the spring hook. Then just rotate it counter clockwise and it will catch. Since I unwound mine two turns I'll rewind the same. You just need to make sure the rope retracts all the way.
  29. 2 points
    that's the motor tag , nothing to do with 1974.......you need to look at the tag on the body i had a 1966 lawn skiff once , the model number was something like RE66
  30. 2 points
    My old 1277 has a deep place in my heart - my first horse and probably put 2k hours on it . I've moved more gravel , dirt , rock , brush than anyone else I know with something this small , yet it still runs despite using it as a bulldozer . Need to repair it's rear frame plate next spring , hence building up the D-180 for now , which is quickly growing on me , ugly or not . The 1277 , with the old 7-slot grill just has some sort of elegance and attitude about it , vintage yet capable still to this day . Despite it being rusted , beaten and rough looking I've had a ton of people around here that want to buy it , this one stays and is eventually going to my grandkids . Please excuse the green thing - inherited that one from Dad when he passed and it gets most of the mowing duty but beats me to death - just far too light in weight/build . Sarge
  31. 2 points
    Test fitted the the E-Trailer hubs last night - these are for the common BT8 1" spindle and use L44643 1" bore bearings , 1-1/4" bore grease seal . This eliminates using a special wheel/bearings to fit the 1" spindles and gets rid of those expensive wheel bearings wearing out so easily - not to mention this setup can handle a lot more weight . You can also upgrade to the even heavier 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern hubs , there are short ones like what I used to fit the length of the 1" spindles and with a sleeve on a 3/4" spindle it can be adapted to work on nearly all the other axle types and stock spindles . http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKIHUB-440-2-1K.html This hub will of course require new front wheels - there are many types and most are a centered spacing although there are offset spacing wheels available if you have an issue with clearance to the axle casting/steering parts . Almost all WH front ends use centered wheel designs , so it makes it pretty easy to figure this stuff out . 4 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern , 8" wheel x 7" wide to fit 18x8.50-8 tires and other sizes - http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330324_200330324?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF The hubs and two wheels ended up far cheaper than trying to source two good 1" axle type WH wheels and those special bearings . This upgrade removes the easily wearing parts and gives more flexibility later down the road to make repairs - instead of ending up with NLA parts that cannot be found . Here are the hubs installed - The D series used a 3/8" coarse bolt to hold the wheels/bearings on originally . I used 1" x 1-1/4" x 3/4" long Olite bushings (bronze/alum) to space the hub out and give the grease seal a surface to ride upon and retain grease in the bearings/hub . One could also just use common steel spacers with a 1" bore x 1-1/4" outside diameter cut to 3/4" long or whatever is needed to properly space the hub away from the axle casting and clear any steering arms . This makes the front axle fully serviceable and should last just shy of forever if not severely abused . For those with front end loaders - this is the way to go... For now , they are installed with bolts/spacers on the end to preload the bearings by about .005" which should be plenty . On a 520 front spindle , those have a male threaded end that could be used with jam nuts to pre-load these bearings in the same way . I plan to pick up a pair of common Chevy exhaust manifold adapter studs which use 3/8"-24 fine thread at the manifold and 3/8"-16 thread at the pipe flange . Those studs can use a common fine thread castle nut and be drilled for a cotter key to set it up like a common car/truck spindle to pre-load the bearings . They washers I used in the picture were made on the lathe - it's just heavy steel with a 1.5" outside diameter and 3/8" bolt hole - common trailer washers can be used or even two heavy 3/8" fender washers , just make sure you can use spacers or shims to pre-load those tapered roller bearings or they won't last like they should . I'll try to remember to get more detailed pictures loaded of the spacers/grease seal parts and show how the wheels look installed and the clearance to the axle casting/steering parts later today or tomorrow . Running out of decent weather fast and I don't have a garage , only a couple small sheds to keep my Horses out of the weather - far too small to work inside and not heated . This is my humble shop - It's definitely a 1-man work space and this doesn't include the huge 80gal 2-stage compressor , 30 ton press and my Miller Dynasty 200DX tig/stick welder setup . I really need a different place , we're looking for a house with the room to add a steel building/shop . Most folks bought a house and built a shop first - I bought equipment and tools , lol...sort of backwards but thankful for a very understanding landlord . Anyhow , gotta get back to work on this thing and get it done ..... Sarge That cart is designed to be picked by heavy equipment , tied down to a trailer and will fit through a 28" doorway . All aluminum , including the axle .
  32. 2 points
    Glenn, the 522xi has a 15 amp charging circuit. If you use two 27 watt LED work lights, that will be close to a 5 amp draw. It should be able to handle that load easily.
  33. 2 points
    I agree with digger. We need to know what size your charging system is. I would without a doubt go with an LED setup. You only need a few amps to have even the biggest LED lights. Take a look here on this page, most of them should work: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=led+flood+light+12v&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aled+flood+light+12v To give you an idea if you had a 10A charging system the absolute most you could do is 120W of lights, but that doesn't give you enough headroom on the system itself to run all the other components, so I would try and keep all your lights under 100W or less total. Lately, because of LED's and how light the power draw is I have not been using relay's and have been just wiring to the switch. For higher current draws 10 amps plus I go to relays. I drew up a quick diagram of this as well. If you use spade terminals (fast on's) to connect the wiring you can disconnect at any point in the circuit when you remove the cab.
  34. 2 points
    11-25-1984 "Do They Know It's Christmas?" is a song written in 1984 by Bob Geldof and Midge Ure in reaction to television reports of the1983–85 famine in Ethiopia. It was first recorded in a single day on 25 November 1984 by Band Aid, a super-group put together by Geldof and Ure and consisting mainly of the biggest British and Irish musical acts at the time. The single was released in the United Kingdom on 3 December 1984[1] and aided by considerable publicity it entered the UK Singles Chart at number one and stayed there for five weeks, becoming the Christmas number one of 1984. The record became the fastest selling single in UK chart history, selling a million copies in the first week alone and passing 3 million on the last day of 1984,[2] on the way to becoming the biggest selling single of all time in the UK. It held this title until 1997 when it was overtaken by Elton John's "Candle in the Wind 1997", released in tribute to Princess Diana following her death.[3] The original version of "Do They Know It's Christmas?" has sold 3.78 million copies in the UK to date.[4] The song was also a major success around the world, reaching number one in thirteen other countries outside the UK.
  35. 2 points
    Being in the "Snowbelt" a blade won't do me any good when it arrives in multiple "feet".
  36. 2 points
    Keeps getting worse too!
  37. 2 points
    Uh , yeah...those spindles are junk - no reason to install those unless they are welded up and re-turned to size . I allow up to about .010" wear off the original diameter (.998" for 1" sizes/ .748" for 3/4" sizes when new) . Worn that far isn't going to last very long and will tear up the axle , even with a full-length bushing installed . I installed the D's new front spindles last night after finishing the counter bores - the tool I built works great so far but needs some adjustments done . The bushings are 1/16" wall thickness , anything over that and you really risk weakening the axle casting too much . I try to keep it at a minimum to prevent any possibility of breakage . Basically , what I'm doing is the same procedure for rebuilding HD truck front axles that use heavy brass alloy bushings and hardened king pins with a press slip fit tolerance .By using the full length bushing it spreads the load along the entire shaft length instead of so much side thrust on the bottom/top 1" or so depending upon which axle casting design , which is what wears them out so badly . I try to keep the fit tolerance down to around .005" for grease clearance - at .020" the bushings will have to be replaced which is pretty easy as they are a light press fit into the axle casting and can be sourced easily from places like McMaster or any decent bearing supplier . I grooved both spindles slightly for the D to allow a channel for grease to be forced down to the bottom roller thrust bearings - we'll see if it helps over time . Originally , as a yearly task those should be cleaned and re-packed with grease or replaced if worn . McMaster carries INA brand US made roller thrust bearings in stock for both the 3/4" and 1" size spindles with the same dimensions as the OEM WH parts . I also made up some seals for the new roller thrust bearings out of bicycle tubes to help keep dirt out . Too bad those axle castings aren't about 1/4" larger at the spindle in diameter - almost could use Torrington bearings for the spindles and associated hard bearing sleeves - axle would last forever that way . Hope to finish fitting the trailer hubs , spacers and bearings/seals onto the spindles sometime today between visiting with family and gorging on Holiday food .... Sarge
  38. 2 points
    Owner is on vacation for another week so I have to wait. Employees however are all excited with the prospect of getting rid of it. They claim they are the laughing stock of the whole block and have fights every morning deciding who is going to wheel that thing out. Yeaph the little woman here is going to blow a head gasket when she sees it. I am hoping that since it only has two wheels instead of the usual four she won't be too upset .It is the Wheelhorse Curse, I really do my best to avoid looking for this stuff but it just finds me. A simple trip to get a burger for lunch and guess what is outside the door. I just can't get away from it.
  39. 1 point
    2 walleyes the rest saugers going into the smoker on sunday
  40. 1 point
    What you have for an engine is a Tecumseh" V60 " which means 6 horse power aluminum cast block with a vertical crankshaft style engine. Tune-up and minor repair parts for these engines are somewhat easy to find.
  41. 1 point
    There is also a trapezoid pattern led available - been eyeballing these for a deal lately for the D series since it's sealed beams throw light everywhere but on the ground... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAR36-Round-LED-Trapezoid-Beam-Bulb-Tractor-Aviation-Landing-Light/331809941752?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3D6ac82cfe9d0e453faaced4f21afb344d%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D331672209494 If you really want to blind someone at the moon or space station - https://www.amazon.com/Rigid-Industries-62010-PAR-36-Lumen/dp/B00AMEMEQ2/ref=pd_sbs_60_42?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AMEMEQ2&pd_rd_r=6ZHDRT639X8WMC3HGEP5&pd_rd_w=rpE8U&pd_rd_wg=FRQxo&psc=1&refRID=6ZHDRT639X8WMC3HGEP5 Just be wary of really cheap Chinese knockoffs - doubt they would last very long with the heat and vibration of our tractors . Sarge
  42. 1 point
    Well I'm glad I chose wisely and got new Spindles then. Also got new thrust bearings and washers. Your work sounds great Sarge! Thanks for the info and replying. Very kind and urgent of you. Looking forward to having you rebuild mine. You are right they will last a long time with a replace able sleeve. I didn't understand why they made only two comparatively small contact points for the spindles to ride on either. And dust boots? Heck yeah! Nice idea. Been thinking about the myzelf... So as far as the trailer hubs for the front rims, obviously I'll have to get new rims as well. What are the recommended versions as well as hubs and bearings? Will the original 520 HD bearings work with the suggested hub? Hope yours (and everyone else's) Thanksgiving was great! Family time is important.
  43. 1 point
    I ordered the kit from Then and Now, had it a couple of days later. It comes with everything you need. I think it's about 26 bucks. I wanted to keep everything original so I rebuilt the original cast aluminum pump, just did it on Monday and it works great. I ordered two so I had a spare and I'm glad I did. An added plus is they are nice people to deal with!!
  44. 1 point
    Ready ! But Not with the W/H . Repowered the 66 Got her all cleaned up & replaced all questionable parts over the summer . Bring - it - on !
  45. 1 point
    Actually; Senior Moments seem to be occurring with enough regularity that I don't even notice them anymore!
  46. 1 point
    A light scuffing will remove the oxidation skin that is developed from the zinc galvanizing/plating process . That skin is quite tough to form a bond against with paint - a Scotchbrite pad will etch it a bit so the paint can adhere . The etching acids in those primers are made for aircraft use with aluminum alloys that develop their own skin of oxidation to prevent corrosion - the skin on galvanized zinc coatings is a different makeup and sometimes those acids won't etch into it properly . The nice thing about the zinc in galvanizing on steels is how it can creep and repair itself if it gets nicked or chipped . Those bearing caps are notorious for rusting out over time , mostly because they are cheap stamped steel made in foreign countries with no process controls and the cheapest galvanizing process they can use . Sarge
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    1973, I was working at a local convenience store, the Asst. manager was from Reading Pa. says his brother is coming down for the week and bringing some Rolling Rock did I want some. I told him I never heard of it, he said it was in small bottles and packed 42 to a case, 42 to a case,hell ya. That Saturday they had a big cook out at his house, I showed up about 5pm and started on my case. Sometime later that night I ended up in the back seat of my car, woke up sometime the next day sick as a dog. Car smelled like an out house, didn't take long to realize where the smell was coming from, hard to explain to your mom why you missed church, and the whole pants thing. First and last time I ever drank that stuff.
  49. 1 point
    I have a similar trailer and added brakes to it. I pull it with a 3/4-ton 4x4 pickup and a Ford Edge SUV. Now that I have them, I'd never go back to trailer that doesn't. Loaded to even half capacity I definitely feel the trailer wanting to push the truck in quick stops, especially on gravel and on rain slicked roads. You can always turn the gain down to avoid too much wear on the trailer drums if that's a concern. I turn the brakes off completely when the trailer is empty so it doesn't skid a tire if the road is bumpy while stopping. I don't think I'm hypersensitive about what I can feel, so how others don't notice the trailer pushing the truck is beyond me. They're added peace of mind. Steve
  50. 1 point
    if you had the seat pan off and didn't see the fan, its missing.
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