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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/14/2015 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Update almost done with the semi restore 420lse tractor. I keeped the pan seat and hood orginal with its patina look
  2. 3 points
  3. 2 points
    Just purchased this 401 from a fellow RS member. It's a nice, complete tractor with a previous rattle can paint job. Very solid straight tractor and runs good too. My plan is to disassemble and do a quality paint job on this one. I have a few questions though. Can you pick out what doesn't match the rest? I believe there are at least two things. The trans is dated as a 1961, the engine serial numbers match up with approximately a 1961, and the hood is definitely a 1961, but a few other things just aren't right. I also noticed the front rims don't match each other. The offsets are reversed. Were there different offsets on these earlier models and maybe mine are mix-matched or did one of them just get drilled for the stem on the wrong side? I also need the outer drive pulley to run the deck as well as the pivot pin for the hitch if anyone has these.
  4. 2 points
    As long as you think it is a fixed up parts Horse, you might not mind making your own hitch pin. It is just bar stock with a groove on each end for a "C" clip. BTW, I think you have a very nice looking horse there.
  5. 2 points
    The center hood stand is from a 551. The 551 should not have the three piece transmission. It should be the two piece. The 401 had a solid sheet metal type center hood stand. The 551 had a electric start 5.5 horse Tecumseh engine. The 401 had a K91 Kohler. The clutch/brake pedal is a 401 style. Looks like it's pretty much a 401 with the wrong center hood stand as far as I can tell.
  6. 2 points
    That patina is beautiful. Don't paint it. Perfect as it is. I'd only paint a tractor that has either already been repainted in its past or one that is severely rusty. Color that shows its age and history is wonderful I've got it's twin. She also works.
  7. 2 points
    No. I just put it in there for fit. I still have to weld in the second strap. Even then I only put about an inch or two of gas in it to keep the weight down.
  8. 2 points
    Glad you found us, enjoy your horse and remember,
  9. 2 points
    I wouldn't repaint it, I'd use it but lightly. I think the real rarity is the condition it is in..
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Here is an attached pic of my tractor for reference.
  12. 2 points
    I'll take the liberty to post my brothers (VinsRJ) '54 prototype with hand built fiberglass hood. No picture I've seen yet does this thing justice.
  13. 1 point
    T 1067 - 1967 Wheel Horse Lawn & Garden Tractor 8-Speed Kohler K241S-46333D 10hp Model 5060. Original owner - purchased by my Dad in 1967. RL42 Mower Deck. 40" Brinley De-thatcher. 40" Brinley Plug Aerator.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Welcome to red square! enjoy your tractor.
  16. 1 point
    Sounds interesting 857. You're right. It's a horse and the show will be fun.
  17. 1 point
    I AM PLANNING TO GO TO THE BIG SHOW... I AM BRINGING MY 401.. A FEW THINGS I NOTICED ON MINE... 8 SPEED TRANSMISSION...23X10.50X12 REAR TIRES ON 10" WHEELS.... 2 HP BRIGGS.....WRONG FRONT RIMS,,,,WRONG HOOD.... THIS WAS MY FIRST WHEEL HORSE,,,I NEVER SAW ONE BEFORE....PUT IT TOGETHER BEFORE I CAME TO MY FIRST SHOW....I EVEN MADE A BRACKET TO ADAPT THE TRANS TO THE 401 FRAME HOWEVER,,,IT IS SHINEY,,,IT IS A HORSE, ,,,,REMEMBER,,,IT SHOULD BE FUN SEE YOU AT THE SHOW
  18. 1 point
    26th and 27th look right to me. The 2014 show flyer looks odd though!
  19. 1 point
    I have been visiting my cousin frequently since the early 70's when they moved to Brighton from Bethalto. Spent my summers down there as a kid.
  20. 1 point
    Then the issue is before the ammeter. I would not overlook the fuse holder.
  21. 1 point
    got a uni-drive! not an 8 speed but 4 speed the type that has the same casing as 8 speed not the 3 piece ones. got everything i need except for the 5 lug 1" hubs. since I will be doing this mod for sure all my posts to do with the transmission will be on the "project Agri-800" post under 'modifications and customisations'. thank you all for your help, callum
  22. 1 point
    I have done this with a good hack saw blade and the stock in a vise...the saw cut is perfect.
  23. 1 point
    From what I can see...Jeff hit the nail on the head. Nice tractor either way.
  24. 1 point
    I had a chat with our main hydraulics guy at work. He said that in this system universal hydraulic fluid would be fine. The reason companies like Bosch used 10wt oil was because there was no universal type fluid back then. IE; John Deere and International, Allis Chalmers, Cat and the like each exclusively had their own fluids. According to him, Mobil Oil was first with their 423 universal hydraulic fluid. The problem was, and still is? Flow ability in colder climates. Along with the ability to handle high heat without flashing. He said,"what's the worse that could happen, smoke the pump"? Then he laughed. "It won't". So, I am trying it.
  25. 1 point
    I dont know about the differances. I think its nice as is. Best of luck and thanks for sharing. Glenn
  26. 1 point
    It is a plastic fuel tank and I replaced ALL the fuel lines and filter last summer when I re-did the carb so there couldn't have been 'years of varnish' accumulated. I think that I just got some really low-end gas, or gas that was old to begin with and that Stabil couldn't save. I'm not dishing your knowledge and theory...not in the least. I'm just pissed that I had to clean out the carb ...again... after having just done this last year...not long ago. I'm going to source some 'real gas'. I think there is a station that sells such, not far from me in Cambridge Springs, PA. Thanks for your input.... that's the kind of reply I was trying to prompt.
  27. 1 point
    I happen to be sitting next to where I store my tractor manuals. I have previously done the resistance checks mentioned by Rick and saved the results. Using a multi meter in the forward bias direction (black probe on the striped end of the diode), diode resistance measured 120 ohms on both diodes. Reverse bias (red probe on the striped end) was infinite resistance (total blocking of current) as it should be. Also, as a point of reference, the solenoid coil resistance is 40 ohms.
  28. 1 point
    So that was one of Rick's tractors? That would explain how such a low hour tractor set around for that long.
  29. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. You don't necessarily have this model of deck but the belts should be the same Garry
  30. 1 point
    I just bought a 1969 Wheelhorse Model 7245 Electro 12 about two weeks ago. It has a rototiller,runs good but needs lot's of repair and paint. I just bought it to rototill our home garden garden. Then I stumbled on to this website and after reading many of the articles on this site I am hooked on the wheel horse and very interested and hope to restore my tractor. It's my first one. I'm 68 years old. I'm excited about starting this project.
  31. 1 point
    I've got one question for you is it a Kohler coil or is it like an Napa or a coil from an automotive store. Many years ago I bought a c120 that had the electronic ignition on it it had burnt and instead of buying the electronic ignition I converted it to points and coil like the older kohlers got the coil from Napa echlin internal resistor. engine ran like crap missed no power so I took the engine apart thinking it got hot and the Rings had lost their tension rebuilt engine repainted it got it all back together proud of my work ran the same way. the old boy that was a Kohler rep that called on my father's wheelhorse shop came in and I told him about it he went out to his car got a coil that was a kohler part we put it on and ran like a sewing machine. He told me he had run into that before something about the resistors in the aftermarket coils sometimes where not comparable. I did a lot of work for nothing because of a coil the did not meet specification you might want to check it . if it is not a Kohler coil try to find one used or whatever tomorrow and try that just my 2 cents. [emoji6]
  32. 1 point
    Duke- Any update on this project? I just purchased the same set of front tires you bought. I just really like the style.
  33. 1 point
    I bet you can sell it this year. Glenn
  34. 1 point
    867's are not rare at all. 867's that look like the one pictured above is!
  35. 1 point
    Just a few pics of the rear tires sand blasted, primed and painted.
  36. 1 point
    I have learned a ton in just a few days ! I bought this 856 beauty w/ plow and chains a year ago for $300 . I am use to a collection of Morgan race cars and collection , so forgive me. A body shop owner/ restorer most me life.. and clam digger. Never mind.After a few sleepless nights I got it figured and you are correct on the belt diffs.Thanks to site info .. BUT the problem relates more to the hub brake side !The nut was set all the way up restricting R/ side idler pulley from full ' relax' position to engage gears. A well worn belt did not care. I slackened the nut L/ side to allow more movement of idler pulley R / side as they work together. It now makes sense to the purpose of the E brake locking lever as well ! A minor problem with clutch rod and pedal due to my stupidity now fixed. Can not wait to do a modest cosmetic fix up > As a painter/ restorer I am glad to assist in this department... to all at Red Square..Thanks quahog
  37. 1 point
    Been pecking away at the new one. Got the firewall, most of the steering and 90% of the frame is done. Still waiting for some sprockets and a new carb for the M8 to show up.
  38. 1 point
    The diodes can be tested using an ohm meter. Diodes only permit current to flow in one direction. Some multi-meters have a diode test function, while most all have the ohm reading function. With the ignition off (you don't want power in the circuit when testing the diode), set the meter to diode test or ohms, and put one probe on each side of the diode. With the meter across the diode, you will either get a reading of full continuity (just like touching the two meter probes together), or you will have no continuity. Which ever reading you get, continuity or no continuity, make a note of it. Now reverse the meter leads, if the red probe was on the right side of the diode for the first test, now move it to the left side of the diode with the black probe on the right. If the diode is good, you should not get a reading that is totally opposite of what you got in the first test. If you previously had no continuity, now you should have full continuity, or vise versa. The meter is attempting to put a small current through the diode, but if the diode is working as it should, it will block the flow in one direction. Repeat the same test on the second diode. Any results that are different than described would indicate a failed diode, such as no continuity indicated with the probes in either of the two possible configurations. A failed diode will stop the Kohler in its tracks. If you find a bad diode or two, they will need to be replaced. Before removing them, you need to look very closely at them, looking for a stripe on the body of the diode. The stripe indicates the orientation of the diode, and the new diode MUST be installed with the stripe positioned just as the original, either going towards the solenoid or away. Make a note of the stripe position, or take pictures. The diodes can be soldered into the harness. It is best to cover them with heat shrink tubing if you have access to it. Many auto parts stores have heat shrink tubing, as well as home depot in the electrical department. A local Kohler dealer may have the diodes, not too uncommon that they fail. I have read that they fail due to a high voltage spike getting onto the system from the PTO clutch. Kohler actually makes a kit using more diodes to block the PTO from doing this. Let me know if you need more support. Rick
  39. 1 point
    It's a good looking machine, but I doubt he will get $2600.00 for it.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Well I thought I had a gas tank. Turns out it's the smaller version that used to come mounted on the Kohler engines. I remembered I had been watching a guy on Ebay that had NOS tanks that were the correct size but the outlet is at the wrong end and the fill opening is about 2" off. I figured it was my best option so I bought one. It fits in there under the hood just fine. Just have to have a little longer fuel line. It's perfect inside and out. No corrosion whatsoever.
  42. 1 point
    My tire changing tools are the guys down the street!
  43. 1 point
    Everyone has an opinion, and that is what the above comments are, one person's opinion. However, since using ONLY ethanol-free gas in my horses and other small engines, I have eliminated the need for all additives, and I have ZERO problems with gumming or moisture issues. And in my OPINION, fuel stabilzers and additives were created and designed to put money in the pockets of those manufacturing and selling it. Again just my opinion.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    This is a 1957 RJ-35 project which is patiently waiting in the haymow, lots of rust, but lots of potential too.
  46. 1 point
    I got fed up with fighting them and got one of the Harbor Freight changers. Low cost and it works great.
  47. 1 point
    Here is my first car, still have it. Owned it for 28 years. My Dad owned it for a few years before I bought it off of him. Although he used to tell me I ruined the car when I started modifying it. Until he drove it one time, I thank that changed his mind lol
  48. 1 point
    Talked with JoeBob yesterday. I think we are both going to make this show...it does look like a good time.
  49. 1 point
    The Wheel horse 420lse cleanup nicely with a nice cold spring day wash. I'm going to have to do a little painting to it ethier way. I hate to do that I wanted to keep it bone stock like a survivor style. The main painting will just be frame,rear end and battery box area. Also little engine paint too. The main panels like the hood and rear fender are staying orginal.
  50. 1 point
    My wheel horse in the back 40. Rj58 3616 could not find any munbers on transmission. I have painted the wheels and seat Sherwin Williams antique white.
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