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Jim has his own "special" head gear....

Was out today looking at some property that my girfeinds family owns. Beaten down the undergrowth and Lookie what I found. A quick phone call and it's all mine for free too. I'll have to go back for the cub with another day

JimD, thank you VERY much! Greatly appreciated! DeWayne, thank you as well!!!

The 1974/75 B-80 models were medium frame (43.5" wheelbase) 4 speeds. (3 speeds forward + reverse) Price depends entirely on how bad you want it. I wouldn't go more than $100 - but that's me.

zip tie to the lift lever maybe? Or maybe you could get 2 flags, make the flag poles cross behind the grille in front of the engine?

These two manuals are far better than what I had. Thank you much JimD.

Don't want to hijak the thread, but a good permanent fix to such things is to weld a 1/2 inch rod all the way around the "lip" of the deck. Wheel horse did it with later models to stiffen up the part of the deck that always gets bent. Repeatedly bending the front of the deck will definitely lead to it being warped and result in an uneven cut. I've done it to a couple decks, and it really makes them stronger. I can stop a tractor dead in it's tracks and not bend anything. Obviously that's not the best thing to do, but I mow sorta slow anyway... BTW, glad to hear the Eaton swap has worked well!

One thing I have found is that leaky seals generally makes for easy hub removal.

It;s a club, we have uniforms and everything!

Sooo . . . . where are you from :eusa-whistle:

Steve, I always enjoy your pictures. Don't forget the camera when you come this way in a few weeks. Did John really need another 4-wheeled wagon? How many's that make now? Come on John, spread the wealth! :ychain:

Thanks for the pics Steve, and I must say it was a pleasure to visit with you and Chris, and to meet and visit with Joe and Cheryl. We'll have to do it again! :)

heres a few of my horse stable, built from 5 shipping pallets!mandoor open.front side closedtractor doors open. then this is where i park my pickuptrucks wheel-n-it came over today to pick up the parts i got for him at the big show & we rode tractors to the backyard tractor shed as a side note all these buildings were built by me out of recycled, reclaimed materials

Thanks Carl Hi Richard, ah yes the Hawkhurst Gang, quite a notorious bunch!! Hawkhurst is also the birth place of the "Rootes Group" cars and Oxo gravy.. Hhhmmm.. A 16:9 widescreen photo... Now there's a thought I only managed a grab a little time in the shack today, got a little bit more done though. Carrying on with the belt guard, I was going to add a strengthening flange thingy to help stiffen what was a rather bendy guard.. Then I thought I might as well make the flange thingy a bit bigger and call it a footplate.. Some ribbed ally stuff fixed on top will make it strong. I decided to fit the KT engine cover as a fan cover on the front trans.. This end needed some of the steel I'd cut out welding back on to make it fit right. I wasn't too keen on how the cut down version looked, so the missing bit was also welded back on with a little trimming to clear the hood. I think it looks more er... "Factory" with the cover the shape it should be. A view from the front.. The fan cover won't be that noticeable when the machine is charging straight at you

Rooster, the chemistry of a new lead acid battery is simple - lead plates are clean and electrolyte is water and sulfur (sulfuric acid). When discharged, the sulfur leaves the sulfuric acid and gets deposited on the lead plates. The plates become coated and become less chemically active. Since the sulfuric acid has lost sulfur, it becomes weaker, more like water, and less chemic ally active - so the battery is overall less active. Charging dislodges the sulfur coating from the lead plates and returns the sulfur back into the water - making a stronger sulfuric acid. Just that simple. You're just pushing sulfur around. Remember - the right amount of mobile sulfur is key. A 900 cca battery ??? Really? You couldn't find a bigger battery ? A 900cca battery could be >95% dead and still start a 10 hp engine with ACR! As long as a whole cell is not shorted, a nearly dead 900cca will turn easily over a 10hp in warm weather - NOOOO problem. But if you insist, several options are available to those having funds to spend on "snake oil" additives for dead batteries. Epsom salts - all this additive does is supply a small additional amount of missing sulfur and oxygen molecules into your depleted cells. Epsom salts do not CLEAN anything, the salts make the electrolyte a little more concentrated. The bad boy in this equation is the Magnesium in the salts. Maybe a chemist can tell us exactly where the Magnesium goes when the salt are dissociated, but I'm guessing we just polluted our electrolyte with a conductive metal deposit never meant to be in the cells. "Cleaning" the lead plates is the forte' of the more expensive and exotic cousin of Epsom salt - EDTA - the chemical equivalent of sandblasting the lead plates. Sounds like we are now heading in the right direction, but the sulfur you blast off the grids is now chemically chelated (combined) with the EDTA and no longer can be easily dissolved back into the electrolyte. Remember, we need sulfur to be mobile to jump between water and lead plates to provide chemical activity in the cells. The EDTA additive has provided us with a clean(er) but only marginally better battery. One other effect of EDTA addition is a chemical "sludge" precipitating off the plates and accumulating at the bottom of the battery. If you have a true starting type battery, there usually is a small space purposefully designed below the plates. This empty space allows for collection of precipitation without allowing an excessive accumulation between the plates. Accumulating deposits will cause physical deformation and eventual destruction of the plates. Turning a battery upside down moves the sludge away from possibly cleaner areas on the lower edge of the lead plates and provides a temporary increase in electrical activity - until all the crap settles once again to the bottom of the cells, covering the same areas as before. A temporary gain at best. There may be some gain also due to mixing of the electrolyte that has become stratified - somewhat like old paint settling out in the can. Enter the most promising solution - electronic desulfation. High amperage (70 - 80amps), extremely short duration (10 millisecond) repetitive pulses sent thru the battery to vaporize the thin interface where sulfur joins lead. The small pieces of sulfur then fall back into the electrolyte and rejoin the electrolyte where it belongs. If the desulfator is part of the lifelong maintenance of the battery, you will get maximum life from the battery. I currently have an original JD battery from 2002 which still starts a 17hp engine in warm weather. I may get the rest of this year from the battery but I don't expect much more. The key is the battery has been under constant trickle charge / desulfation for the last 5 - 6 years. I built this circuit for a friend who went off the grid years ago. I built it to his specs and gave it to him. Never thought twice about it until he told me how great it worked. I have a project planned at SOI U this fall to incorporate a similar circuit into a standard rectifier regulator circuit assembly. This will allow the battery to desulfated while the tractor is in use. Stay tuned. I have taken some liberties in these explanations, but I believe we have covered some basic concepts which generate a better understanding of pitfalls and realistic expectations regarding additives. Best advice I can give is keep the battery charged at all times do not let an uncharged battery sit for an extended period of time recharge at the LOWEST charge rate possible do not overcharge desulfators ??? - yes - use them if you have them and use them thru the entire life of the battery

Well its time to pull this thing out a beat the bag out of it. going to try pulling with the slicks

Ya know,some of tire sellers and tire manufacturers must think they're dealing with a bunch of morons.Like no one is going to notice any difference in the tire size and quality.The Squaw even noticed they looked crappy.The business's that pull this inferior crap deserve to go out of business.Them selling these crappy tires didn't lower the price to the consumer one nickle.It must look good for the business owner.At least for now.When sales fall off to almost nothing,they're gonna be scratching their heads and saying WTF.OK done ranting.Thanks for reading this. Amen . . I'm anal about tire size an looks and that pisses me off I'd send them back with picture and tell them you want reimbursed for the shipping both ways . . that's BS. Show them their junk doesn't match the specs. Thanks for posting, now I know what brand is not getting MY $$.

She was OK with all of it, but not at first. She knows, for me the part of this hobby that I like is meeting the members and helping out...it is such a great group of guys and she really enjoys meeting all the people also. You can have all the tractors in the world, but if you can't enjoy them with the people that enjoy them also...that is what it is all about. DA BEARS... and how about Rat's Harley...it is awesome in person.

The paint on that guys motor bike might look good now but let it sit in the sun for a few months and it be driven and the paint will be faded and chipped all up a part painted with the same paint and hardener added after the same time will still have its shine and have little to no chips in the paint!! Not to mention it took me 3 cans of paint to paint a hood I sold a few years back and at almost $4 a can thats $12 for another $22 I could have had enough paint to paint the entire tractor with some left over using hardener and thinner...... So why would I spen 3 or 4 times that?

I would not recommend adding hardener to the primer. It may not allow the paint to "bite" into it. Just apply the primer as they recommend.