MikesRJ 552 #126 Posted September 2, 2009 Mike TOTALLY FANTASTIC! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,675 #127 Posted September 2, 2009 Beautiful Mike just beautiful :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #128 Posted September 3, 2009 I was PM'ed about the painting process used on the hood. I thought I would share it here. 1. Straighten hood metal using an English Wheel, rubber mallet, tin hammer/block, and/or whatever else is necessary to get the hood as absolutely straight as possible without resorting to Bondo. I called in reinforcements on this step, as I am no body/fender man myself. I did some of the tin straightening work, with allot of instruction from "the expert" (aka; "Old-Timer"). 2. As much as we tried, I had to Bondo one small, 6"x6" area in the center of the hood (about 1/64" at the thickest point), which just would not flatten using the English Wheel or any other method. Well, not to my satisfaction anyway (persnickety Bar-Steward that I am). 2. Three heavy coats of primer (Rust-Oleum - Sand-able Auto Primer - Rusty-Red) back-to-back, then sanded from (dry) 220 grit through (wet) 400, 1000, 1500, and 2000 almost back to bare metal using a 12" long block (I call this process "220-2000" block-sanding). 3. Two medium coats of primer with 220-2000 block-sanding between each coat. 4. Three Color Coats (Valspar - Restoration Series - IH RED) with 220-2000 sanding between. 5. Four Clear Coats (Rust-Oleum - Crystal Clear Enamel) with 220-2500 block-sanding between each coat. (I always take clear coats to 2500 grit or higher) 6. Polish surface with Turtle-Wax Polishing Compound using a buffer. 7. Finish Wax with Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax using a buffer. 8. Apply decals using water-slide method. Squeegee excess water, dry with a paper towel. Allow to dry-out for no less than 24 hours. 9 Wax again by-hand using Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax. Sometimes, and I used this method on this hood, I spray a very light coat of a different colored sand-able primer over the top of the last primer coat (step #3) before I begin the sanding process. If there are any surface defects remaining; if you were careful to follow this process outlined here there should not be any at this point; all of the off-color primer will be gone when the last sanding process (2500 grit) is completed. If any of the off-color primer remains after the sanding process, you have low spots which need further attention before you continue. Total calendar time required for the hood, allowing for ample drying time of color and clear coats, TWO WEEKS! Words of Caution: Always make sure you are using compatible primers, colors, and clears. They MUST be the same chemical make-up and it is ALWAYS preferable to use the same manufacturer's paints unless you have extensively tested compatibility beforehand ). I've been using the Rust-Oleum/Valspar/Rust-Oleum combo for years, as they are all Toluene-based Enamels). That's it. Great results can be achieved with a spray can, spray bomb, or rattle can (your choice of wording here). It just takes allot of time, and even more patience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #129 Posted September 3, 2009 Beautiful Mike just beautiful Thanks Brian. :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hcminis 1,532 #130 Posted September 3, 2009 Beautiful....HECK!!!....That thing is just simply AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing and I hope and dream to have one half that nice one of these days. D. J. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #131 Posted September 5, 2009 Mike keep up the great work. :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #132 Posted September 5, 2009 :hide: :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevinator 1 #133 Posted September 8, 2009 Mike that looks really nice.Now just cut a couple clear 3/4'' pieces of clear tube the right length from the hardware store and you'll never mar the foot pegs when you drive it around. :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #134 Posted September 8, 2009 Mike that looks really nice.Now just cut a couple clear 3/4'' pieces of clear tube the right length from the hardware store and you'll never mar the foot pegs when you drive it around. They've been cut to size and are sitting on the workbench for a month now. I decided to put a light coat of clear over the whole tractor frame (for paint preservation purposes), so they are awaiting installation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #135 Posted November 21, 2009 I haven't posted here in a long while as I've been up to other "projects". Since my last installment I've acquired an NOS heat shield, and an NOS toolbox and fenders set. The heat shield has already been stripped and repainted when I did the 10-8 seat, and the toolbox/fenders will be done soon. Pictures to follow. Aside from the engine (which is yet to be rebuilt), the only original part I am missing is the NOS belt guard. Mission impossible perhaps, but I've got until June 24, 2010 to find one and get it ready for the WH Show. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #136 Posted February 4, 2010 Finally got around to doing the fenders today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DMK855 15 #137 Posted February 4, 2010 Looks good Mike!! Spent this evening glass beading my fenders and tool box!! Need to weld a crack on the one fender tomorrow though!! B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dclarke 4,011 #138 Posted February 4, 2010 you do a great job on your tractors mike. very enjoyable to follow your projects. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suburban 550 28 #139 Posted February 4, 2010 Beautiful job, Mike. A first class restoration. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,675 #140 Posted February 4, 2010 looking good Mike :party: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #141 Posted February 4, 2010 And the finished Heat Shield with new clamps ... (paint still needs to be buffed and polished) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,675 #142 Posted February 4, 2010 Mike When you put that heat shield on wire tie it thru the clamps and around the ex. pipe as the heat will expand the clamps and the shield will fall off and you'll drive over it ask me how I know that sometime B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #143 Posted February 4, 2010 Point taken! Thank you for the advice! Sorry to hear about the mangled heat shield too! :party: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 70 #144 Posted February 5, 2010 Looking very nice!,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikesRJ 552 #145 Posted May 2, 2010 Engine finally coming together. The first few pictures was strictly a mock-up without the crankshaft installed. The last picture was after crank installation but without anything but the oil bath air filter installed. The head still needs to be polished and all of the bolts will be replaced with grade 8 zinc chromate type, but at least it's starting to look like an engine again... All of the tin parts done in Valspar Restoration Series IH Red and the engine block and oil pan was painted with Dupli-Color DE1653 Red ceramic engine paint. I'll post more when the engine is completed. And last, but not least, the RJ-58 just waiting on the engine ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #146 Posted May 2, 2010 I luv when a plan comes together! Can't wait to see it in June Mike :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,116 #147 Posted May 2, 2010 Very very nice job! :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 70 #148 Posted May 2, 2010 Mike you are doing a great job with this project!!! Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DMK855 15 #149 Posted May 3, 2010 I like when things come together!!!!! Looks great Mike!! Can't wait to see it up close in June!!! :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 28 #150 Posted May 3, 2010 Mike a little but you said something about your 10-8 seat, is there a post on here about that? Thought there was but couldn't find it. I have a couple to redo, myself. Thanks Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
