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    • By BMW1
      What brand of gauges are D series owners using for replacements?
       
      I would like a matched set for a D200(oil pressure, transmission temp, volts or amps) with lights.
       
      The ones on mine are in bad shape and don't work, except amps.  I think the sending units may be bad or maybe the inside of the gauges are bad from sitting outside for so long.
       
      Thanks.
    • By Sarge
      Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now...
       

       

       

       

       
      All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect....
       
      Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully.
       
      Sarge
    • By Niagara D
      Looking to get out of the WH business so looking to unload everything as one lot.  Have D160 w/ Onan 16 twin original.  Use it to mow last year so it will run, have not started it this year.  Burns oil but good machine otherwise. Has 48 inch belly mower and snow blower. Other machine is 18 Auto with bar tires, 3 pt hitch and rear PTO, 48 inch Rear finish mower and snow blower.  Current state is that it has motor and hydro pump out because the O rings for hydro pump were leaking so while making that repair I planned to change the Pump shaft out.  Motor and drive are good and I have mowed with this in the past.  Spare parts I have include Most of another Machine that was stripped down so there are spare tires rims, rear end, steering components, I also have 2 o 3 spare hydro pumps, extra hydro line sets (hoses and hard lines), Another 16 horse ONAN that blew a rod currently torn down (may be salvageable, never followed up with it).  I am getting several Allis Chalmers garden tractors passed down to me and since I barely have time for my WH I figure its best to pass these on to another collector and make room for the new fleet coming.  Please reach out to me Via Email and we can exchange contact information and I could send pictures when I make time to take some this week.  Thank you.
    • By tommyg
      I’m not sure I’m in the right place for this post, but I’ve got a leaky hydro cylinder on my D180. It’s the primary one that lifts the deck, snowblower, etc. I could take a chance on finding one on ebay, but I was wondering if there’s an alternative besides used.
    • By Sarge
      Fast question ...
       
      Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
       
      The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
       
      Sarge
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