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dodge78

Making weights

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dodge78

I am in the process of making weights for my C-160. I have 5 gallons of wheel weights I want to melt down and pour into sheet metal containers. Lead melts at under 700 degrees and I am wondering at what temperature does galvinizing on sheetmetal starts to fume? What would be the best seam to use to keep the lead from seeping out? The less welding I do the better it will look ( to make a long story short, amperage is in short supply ). I am thinking of making two weights at about 70-75 lbs each.

Here is a rough idea of what I am thinking:

th_weight.jpg

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jusjeepn

That would definitely add a lot of weight but I see limitations. The only thing you'd be able to do is mow. You'll be completely covering all access to anything rear hitch related (dozer blade, grader blade, any rear attachments, etc........). You can make actual wheel weights with a little ingenuity. A steel 5 gal bucket is about the same size as the ID of your 12"wheel. Put a smaller can in the center and attach to the larger bucket and viola, You have a wheel weight mold! Fill to the desired depth, remove and paint. You can either add tubes to your molds for the bolt holes (plan on leaving those in the weights) or you can drill them! We used this same principal to make weights for race cars. Our mold was a valve cover. We had a piece of DOM steel tube we set in the top after pouring to give us the shape of the roll bar! WEAR A RESPIRATOR WHEN MELTING LEAD!!!!!!! This is a must if you want to, oh say..... LIVE!

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GlenPettit

Putting the weight just behind the rear axle will lighten up the front a little, with a front snow plow on you actually want some weight toward the front to help with steering. Wheel weights would be best, lead is very easy to drill. 10" cake pans or 10" iron frying pans are available for molds. Making several 20

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