Adding an oil pressure gauge on 416-8

[Section8 0]

Hello all. I'm a newbie here...been lurking for a week and I am very impressed. Good people here and very helpful information -- so helpful in fact that all my questions have been addressed without asking, up to now.

A couple of weeks ago I bought a '91 416-8 with about 575 hrs and a 48" deck. It has that row of lights (LEDs) on the dash indicating the status of things, one of which is "oil level" which is controlled by the onan's oil pressure switch. Better than nothing, I guess, but I'd feel much better if I could actually monitor the oil pressure.

My question is: Is there a simple way to tap into "pressure" on the onan, by which I mean, is there a plugged-off hole in the block somewhere for that purpose or will I have to "rig it" by remounting the oil pressure switch on a tee and tap in there?

BTW, it looks like I can fit the gauge centered and above the voltmeter and hourmeter on the instrument panel without looking "grossly unfactory."

Again, great forum here, and yes I am already hooked on Wheel Horse after just a coupla weeks with this one! (hooked first day actually... got rid of the 18HP AYP/Crapsman/Powerpro/Disposable rider the same day, lol)

[Duff 206]

Don't have an answer to your oil pressure question, but I did want to say, !

Glad to have you among us!

Duff :omg:

[Section8 0]

Don't have an answer to your oil pressure question, but I did want to say, !

Glad to have you among us!

Duff

Thanks, Duff. I'm glad I stumbled across this forum.

[gwgdog66 23]

:omg:

[Section8 0]

OK, so I got my oil pressure gauge installation project done. did. done did.

I feel better not having to depend on just the idiot light. Oil pressure reads around 7-8 psi at idle and 16-17 at speed.

It turned out pretty nice, too, with the added benefit of being fairly easy to do on the 16HP onan engine, by which I mean, fairly easy if you are not me.

That said, if you are considering adding an oil pressure gauge to your beloved onan, here's how to do it, step by step:

1. Unbolt Engine Shroud.

The big one with the sideways Weber grill in it. There are 5 or 6 bolts holding it on. There will only be 3 or 4 for some reason when you go to put it back together. After yanking the shroud around for a while it will slide free from the engine shortly after you discover and remove the top-secret hidden bolts under the air cleaner (around the ignition coil-thing that sparks a lot when you bump the terminals against nearby metal). Once those bolts are removed, yank on the shroud some more and it will slide off the moment after you detach the way-too-short hose that goes through the shroud to the back side of the fuel pump, and also too, unhook the left end of the big spring near the end of the throttle cable under the air cleaner. You can yank on the shroud some more if you like between these last two steps. I did.

2. Place the Shroud on the Floor Out of Your Way.

(You can't throw it across the shop, the throttle cable is too short.)

3. Remove the Oil Pressure Switch.

The wrenching area on the pressure switch is accessible with light to moderate cussing. It is brass and threaded into a 45-degree elbow that is threaded into the oil filter adapter plate. You need a 9/16 wrench to keep the elbow from turning while you unscrew the switch with a 7/16 wrench. NOTE: DO NOT "round off" the tiny little soft brass flats on the switch with the 7/16 or you will have to remove the entire oil filter adapter plate from the engine so you can put it in a vise and use locking pliers on the rounded off flats to remove the switch. (The oil filter adapter plate bolts are hard to get to.)

4. Remove the Entire Oil Filter Adapter Plate From the Engine so You Can Put it in a Vise and Use Locking Pliers on the Rounded-Off Flats to Remove the Pressure Switch.

Be careful when handling the adapter plate so you don't get dirt inside it or drop it on the floor again.

5. Install a Brass Tee

Put a threaded brass nipple in the hole the switch was in (everything is 1/4" pipe thread here), and then a brass "Tee" on the nipple, and then, using aforementioned locking pliers, install the pressure switch in one of the two remaining tee-holes.

6. Clean Out the Dirt That Got in it Anyway, and Reinstall the Oil Filter Adapter Plate on the Engine.

7. Install the Oil Pressure Gauge Line/Fitting in the One Remaining Tee-Hole (the fitting/line that came with your new oil pressure gauge)

8. Route the Oil Line Through Stuff and To Your New Gauge

I ran mine thru the cutout in the shroud where the oil filter sticks out; then under the battery shelf; then through the little gap between the upper and lower dash panels.

9. Reinstall the Big Shroud/Attachments and All the Shroud Bolts You Can Account For.

It goes back on a somewhat easier than taking it off (a little less yanking).

Regarding where/how to mount the gauge, I couldn't bring myself to cut a big ol' unauthorized gauge hole in one of the dash panels (besides, those panels have a pretty steep angle as far as gauge viewing goes), so here is what I did instead:

Using all my mechanicaling skills, I dug around the shop and yard until I found an old radiator hose that I could mash the gauge into. Stop laughing, I'm serious. Anyway, I removed the hose I found from my friends car, cut the length of it to slightly less than the length of the plastic tube that hides the tractor's steering wheel's column (this is a 416-8 tractor), ran the gauge oil line thru the radiator hose, hooked the line to the gauge, mashed the gauge into the end of the hose (nice fit, and yes,face up) and strapped it to the steering column cover with black plastic zip-ties. Believe it or not, it actually looks pretty good and is aimed right at your face for easy viewing, plus the gauge's oil line is completely hidden by the radiator hose, hereafter referred to as the "anti-vibration gauge mounting tube."

BTW, I was kidding about removing the radiator ho-- er, anti-vibration gauge mounting tube from a friend's car.

He's more like an acquaintance.

[04fxdwgi 0]

OK, so I got my oil pressure gauge installation project done. did. done did.

I feel better not having to depend on just the idiot light. Oil pressure reads around 7-8 psi at idle and 16-17 at speed.

It turned out pretty nice, too, with the added benefit of being fairly easy to do on the 16HP onan engine, by which I mean, fairly easy if you are not me.

That said, if you are considering adding an oil pressure gauge to your beloved onan, here's how to do it, step by step:

1. Unbolt Engine Shroud.

The big one with the sideways Weber grill in it. There are 5 or 6 bolts holding it on. There will only be 3 or 4 for some reason when you go to put it back together. After yanking the shroud around for a while it will slide free from the engine shortly after you discover and remove the top-secret hidden bolts under the air cleaner (around the ignition coil-thing that sparks a lot when you bump the terminals against nearby metal). Once those bolts are removed, yank on the shroud some more and it will slide off the moment after you detach the way-too-short hose that goes through the shroud to the back side of the fuel pump, and also too, unhook the left end of the big spring near the end of the throttle cable under the air cleaner. You can yank on the shroud some more if you like between these last two steps. I did.

2. Place the Shroud on the Floor Out of Your Way.

(You can't throw it across the shop, the throttle cable is too short.)

3. Remove the Oil Pressure Switch.

The wrenching area on the pressure switch is accessible with light to moderate cussing. It is brass and threaded into a 45-degree elbow that is threaded into the oil filter adapter plate. You need a 9/16 wrench to keep the elbow from turning while you unscrew the switch with a 7/16 wrench. NOTE: DO NOT "round off" the tiny little soft brass flats on the switch with the 7/16 or you will have to remove the entire oil filter adapter plate from the engine so you can put it in a vise and use locking pliers on the rounded off flats to remove the switch. (The oil filter adapter plate bolts are hard to get to.)

4. Remove the Entire Oil Filter Adapter Plate From the Engine so You Can Put it in a Vise and Use Locking Pliers on the Rounded-Off Flats to Remove the Pressure Switch.

Be careful when handling the adapter plate so you don't get dirt inside it or drop it on the floor again.

5. Install a Brass Tee

Put a threaded brass nipple in the hole the switch was in (everything is 1/4" pipe thread here), and then a brass "Tee" on the nipple, and then, using aforementioned locking pliers, install the pressure switch in one of the two remaining tee-holes.

6. Clean Out the Dirt That Got in it Anyway, and Reinstall the Oil Filter Adapter Plate on the Engine.

7. Install the Oil Pressure Gauge Line/Fitting in the One Remaining Tee-Hole (the fitting/line that came with your new oil pressure gauge)

8. Route the Oil Line Through Stuff and To Your New Gauge

I ran mine thru the cutout in the shroud where the oil filter sticks out; then under the battery shelf; then through the little gap between the upper and lower dash panels.

9. Reinstall the Big Shroud/Attachments and All the Shroud Bolts You Can Account For.

It goes back on a somewhat easier than taking it off (a little less yanking).

Regarding where/how to mount the gauge, I couldn't bring myself to cut a big ol' unauthorized gauge hole in one of the dash panels (besides, those panels have a pretty steep angle as far as gauge viewing goes), so here is what I did instead:

Using all my mechanicaling skills, I dug around the shop and yard until I found an old radiator hose that I could mash the gauge into. Stop laughing, I'm serious. Anyway, I removed the hose I found from my friends car, cut the length of it to slightly less than the length of the plastic tube that hides the tractor's steering wheel's column (this is a 416-8 tractor), ran the gauge oil line thru the radiator hose, hooked the line to the gauge, mashed the gauge into the end of the hose (nice fit, and yes,face up) and strapped it to the steering column cover with black plastic zip-ties. Believe it or not, it actually looks pretty good and is aimed right at your face for easy viewing, plus the gauge's oil line is completely hidden by the radiator hose, hereafter referred to as the "anti-vibration gauge mounting tube."

BTW, I was kidding about removing the radiator ho-- er, anti-vibration gauge mounting tube from a friend's car.

He's more like an acquaintance.

Section 8,

Thanx for the laugh. I must have known you at one one point and been trained in the same "Mechanic's school". My wife read this also and thought I had a "ghost writer" explaining some of my exloits..

VERY FUNNY. Thanx

[04fxdwgi 0]

Oh yeah, I was contemplating doing the kinda same thing, since my 520H has no room for more gauges on the dash. Was considering removing the vacuum gauge, better known as the "Power Gauge" (pretty useless, since I can "hear" when the engine is working and can't imagine overworking the P220G) and storing away and using that hole for 2 1/16" oil pressure gauge in it's place.

I think I would use an AN3 S/S braided teflon line, better known as a brake line available in all lengths from Jeg's or Summit Racing, for the takeoff to the gauge (like I did on my Harley). Most of those gauges come with a plastic line that I believe will pop a leak in short order under those harsh engine conditions and vibration.

Good work, by the way, and a better description.

[JimD 3,345]

i started reading the step by step instructions, had to stop and clean the coffee off the monitor, desk, keyboard, changed my shirt. repeated this process about 4 times. very funny, you definitely..."left me laughin". it sounds like you did a great job, how about a few pics! again, thanks for the laughs... :(

[Duff 206]

:( ...that was just way too funny! Are you a comedy writer in your other life?

Duff :omg:

[clintonnut 126]

It's like you said don't do this and it happened anyway. "Don't get dirt here...Once you have cleaned the part of dirt..." VERY FUNNY!!!!!!

Charlie

[HorseFixer 2,012]

SECTION 8 now that's some funny chit! So how long ago did ya get that SECTION 8? :(

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Very funny, and a nice instructional write up too! Thanks for sharing. Some pictures would be nice if you get a chance. :omg:

[chazm 412]

Hey 8 , welcome

Very entertaining , but you should take a minute and feel bad...

Thousands of entertainers out of work and your trying to be funny,

Good stuff, Chaz

[TJ 171]

Thanks, I needed that. :omg:

[Section8 0]

Right up front, I want to say I agree with TINY390's point about the benefits of fat-chick aftershocks on the dance floor, and I -- oh, sorry, wrong forum.

Seriously, thank you for all the warm welcomes and especially for all the kind responses to what is obviously a precarious situation: me on a mission, armed with tools.

I forgot to mention that this project started because the "Engine Oil" light was blinking sometimes, and troubleshooting the problem required a gauge. The new oil pressure gauge is working great, sitting there in its custom anti-vibration mounting tube, and since the engine does have good oil pressure, the problem is the pressure switch which needs adjustment -- the screwdriver-turning kind, not the hammer-whacking kind. A side benefit is that I can now sleep better, free of recurring blinking-light dreams.

As, requested, I will post some photos here (the project, not me sleeping) as soon as l can round up a suitable camera.

Regarding some of your questions/comments...

fan: That is funny about having to stop and clean the coffee off the computer and yourself. Laughter is the spice of life. Or nutmeg, I can't remember. (I know what that coffee splatter situation is like first hand; I, too, have a drinking problem.)

Duff: Thank you, but no, I was not a comedy writer in my other life. In fact, in my other life, I was one of the old guys yelling derogatory remarks from the balcony on The Muppet Show.

HorseFixer: I have never actually gotten an "official" military Section 8. The guy at the base said I would first have to join "a branch of the military, but please not this one for Christ's sake" and then go nuts, and then something about "stop coming by here every week bothering us, sir" (which I thought was very respectful with the "sir" and all. I should mention that to them next week).

Lord Helmutt: Thanks and I will post pics as soon as possible (read, "find camera").

04fxdwgi: Using a higher quality (less tearupable?) oil feed line, as you suggested, is a very good idea. On mine, I'm covering the small, easily-damaged line (supplied with the gauge) with that flexible plastic sleeve stuff and hope that is protection enough. That's because I already have some flexible plastic sleeve stuff. Regarding our similar "exploits," I reckon it's possible that you must have known me at one point. Ever been hollered at from a balcony?

BTW, I'm now moving on to the next project (sometimes, upon hearing me say that, the neighbors start sandbagging their homes). The next project is to weld up some sort of removable support ramps/platforms for my truck's hydraulic lift gate, so that it can lift this 416-8 Horsie into the truck (flatbed). I used to run my old AYP/Disposable lawn tractor into (and offto) the truck with ease, but being a 740 pound mastodon, the Wheel Horse tries slide off on the way up. If I can figure out which thread to post in, and without objection your honor, I will also post this project, in detail, including medical bills.

Again, thanks to all for the comments and warm welcome.

[JimD 3,345]

ya did it to me again. :omg:

[Don1977 604]

Oh yeah, I was contemplating doing the kinda same thing, since my 520H has no room for more gauges on the dash. Was considering removing the vacuum gauge, better known as the "Power Gauge" (pretty useless, since I can "hear" when the engine is working and can't imagine overworking the P220G) and storing away and using that hole for 2 1/16" oil pressure gauge in it's place.

I think I would use an AN3 S/S braided teflon line, better known as a brake line available in all lengths from Jeg's or Summit Racing, for the takeoff to the gauge (like I did on my Harley). Most of those gauges come with a plastic line that I believe will pop a leak in short order under those harsh engine conditions and vibration.

Good work, by the way, and a better description.

Maybe they don't make little plastic line like they use to, but the little plastic line I put

on my Wheel Horse oil gage has been on there for the last 18 years.

[Duff 206]

8, yer killin' me!

Duff :omg:

[gwgdog66 23]

:( You funny!

"If I can figure out which thread to post in, and without objection your honor, I will also post this project, in detail, including medical bills."

I think the work in progress forum would be great

:drool:

[04fxdwgi 0]

Maybe they don't make little plastic line like they use to, but the little plastic line I put

on my Wheel Horse oil gage has been on there for the last 18 years.

Just my own insecurity of pumping all the oil out of a small sump before noticing a failed plastic tube. I have used the plastic many times over my lifespan with no problems, but did have one let go before creating a huge mess, but with no damage, but that was a 7qt sump.

Used the brakeline rig on my Harley due to the vibration and added exhaust heat around the oil pressure port. The $18.00 is pretty cheap insurance against a failure caused by vibration / heat and these Onan P220-G's are pretty expensive to fix. Kinda of got in the habit of building in safety nets when I was building NHRA engines.

Just my 2 cents and figured someone else could benefit from what I have learned over the years and maybe could use an idea on a better "mouse trap".

Cheers

[bitten 133]

:omg:

Very good stuff :drool: