Snow Cabs & Blower Questions?

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Hey guys, I haven't really been in the need before now to get a snow cab But now that I have a C-120 Auto and blower I have some questions. I have a few questions and Ideas and thought I would run them by you guys.

1) I have found a snow cab in pretty fair shape its a 97-04cb01-04421 for $100.00 The canvas type material is not it to bad a shape, the canvas type stuff kinda reminds me of tyvek house wrap. The canvas threads are in tact but there are some areas that may need a little sewing and possibly maybe some patching a bit. The steel inside I will prolly paint with some POR paint after wire wheeling. Where do you get that type of material and what kinda thread would you use to do some fixing?

2) Would like to put a rotating beacon on top of the fiberglass hard top and maybe some brighter lights will the charging system handle these extras?

3) The blower I have is a cable type drive to rotate the shoot are the notch screw type more dependable and operate better? And has anyone done any mods maybe like with electric gear motor or electric or hydraulic cylinder to drive the shoot left or right? I thought that would be a pretty slick mod.

4) Has anyone ever ducted the heat from the engine to the cab? Do they fog up internally from your breath? My garage is heated I mean I don't keep it real warm in there but I do keep it at 40 degrees when I'm not in there. Should I use a fan? Or make a cowling/heat exchanger around the head or exhaust pipe and duct it to the cab to help with this?

5) Is a WS wiper necessary for the window? Would it be worth installing one? Again these adds may tax the charging system. Would have to install a galss window of course and there would need to be reinforcment to install a glass cause cant wipe the thin plastic window cause it would scratch it mot likely.

6) Is it possible to increase the charging system output and if so how?

7) I got two blowers with the C-120 when I got it a 32" and 36" it will take up to a 42" I was using a 24" toro before so any of these two blowers I have are a upgrade to what I am presently using. Is there an advantage to not over tax the tractor by going a smaller blower? Will it make a big difference? Is a two stage that much better? My driveway is 90' long and 20' to 30' wide. And I have to blow it straight ahead 40' till I get past the RV then I can blow it right or left.

8) I have heard by changing the pulley size on the single stage blowers to make them turn faster really helps? Has anyone done this or know if this is true?

Just trying to get a grocery list together, I will most likely start working on the C-120 after the big show, in preparation for this winter. Any thoughts on the questions above would be great! :omg:

[bitten 133]

Duke

You have raised some questions that I have thought of for some time. Mainly the heat riser. I have worked it out in my head but the way I thought about it it would have to be a deadicated winter machine. I have a Inter national 656 with a heat riser on it that works OK that can be taken off of the tractor easly. My thoughts were for a 310-8, make metal panals to inclose the engine compartment except for exhaust, pully and engine cooling intake. Inclose the bottum of the frame but allow for the lifting action. I think the blower for the engine would force the warm air to you.

The snow blower on the InterNational 699 does use a hydralic ram to move the shoot so I know with some ingunaity you could make it work for a WH.

The cab that I have for my garden tractor is a home built unit with plexy glass on it. I have never used it, but when I get to it it will have some kind of windshield wiper on it. Might be a hand jobby or one with a motor.

As far as the charging system goes there is no dout in my mind ( from the posts that I have read from you) that you can figure that out. I have seen LED head lights that are very bright that wouldnt pull as much amps as a incondesent light, but they are very expensive ( $189 for each). Im sure that there are some LED becons out there as well that would help keep the amp draw to a min.

I will have to wait till I get a differant tractor to use for this as Ive got other intentions for the 310-8, the GT14 is out of the question and that last of my heard the D-200 is used to much for other things and the air for it is directed out the front.

Cant wait to see what you come up with, Im sure it will be top notch,

P.J.

[Duff 206]

Duke, the only part of your shopping list I think I can speak to is #5. If you use Lexan plastic - not the hardware store plexiglas stuff but the real deal - for your windshield, you can use a wiper and keep it clean in between uses with Windex and a soft cloth. Lexan is the stuff they make aircraft windows and windshields out of - but you don't need it that thick. It's not cheap, but it is tough, abrasion-resistant and darn near unbreakable. Might have to order it on line, although some hardware stores do carry it as a replacement for glass windows in storm doors to satisfy the shatter-resistance requirement most building codes call for.

Just my humble thoughts - I've used the stuff in several applications and like it. Oh - you have to cut it with a saw - a plexiglas cutter really doesn't make the grade on this material!

Duff :omg:

[Operator 7]

HorseFixer I can help with a couple of your questions, Roof beacon- get a Firebolt Strobe not very much amp. draw at all, small and bright. Chute - On my 2 stage I used a Ford windshield wiper motor and took off the hand crank at the u-joint machined out a coupler and have it right at the base of the chute, wired in a three position on-off-on dpdt switch ,works great. If you would call Origional Cab Co. and ask about the hard glass for front they will tell you "no longer available". And just a warning on enclosing to much of engine area to get heat CARBON MONOXIDE FUMES can get to inside of cab, be carefull!!! Hate to see anything happen. As for headlights, We use diferent switch for aux. headlights, then don't turn on factory lights. That way we don't over tax system, it ain't the best anyway.

If you would want a picture of my chute rotater let me know.

Randy

[zieg72 209]

My 520H with the winter cab is nice and toasty. The heat from the engine keeps it a nice temp inside. I tried the blower on several snows but did not like the blow back on the windshield so I think a wiper would be a great idea. I had the single stage 42". My snowfalls are all over the map having lake effect snow here in NW Indiana and with my driveway being asphalt the plow works the best and fastest. I also found I used less gas because the snow loaded the engine. If I ever find a 2 stage that is reasonable I may try it but the single stage was hard to work getting the right speed to throw the snow. I had the cable that slipped which was pain at times, especially if the snow was heavy.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

HorseFixer I can help with a couple of your questions, Roof beacon- get a Firebolt Strobe not very much amp. draw at all, small and bright. Chute - On my 2 stage I used a Ford windshield wiper motor and took off the hand crank at the u-joint machined out a coupler and have it right at the base of the chute, wired in a three position on-off-on dpdt switch ,works great. If you would call Origional Cab Co. and ask about the hard glass for front they will tell you "no longer available". And just a warning on enclosing to much of engine area to get heat CARBON MONOXIDE FUMES can get to inside of cab, be carefull!!! Hate to see anything happen. As for headlights, We use diferent switch for aux. headlights, then don't turn on factory lights. That way we don't over tax system, it ain't the best anyway.

If you would want a picture of my chute rotater let me know.

Randy

Zieg72, Duff, bitten Thanks I think a strobe would be the way to go! Yeah I have used lots of Lexan! It pretty tuff stuff, but the inmates at the Jail still manage to scar and wreck it! If it were to get scuffed If I do go a wiper I think the Lexan winshield would need to be replaceable and set in a frame which I would have to build.

Randy ~ On yer chute is it a cable or a screw type? I'll send you a PM with my E-mail addy so's you can send me some pics!

No one gave me the skinny on a 2 stage -vs- a small single stage? Since my C-120 can take a 42" how do you think a 32" would operate? Also the pulley size change thing, any thoughts

[Operator 7]

Fixer my thrower is screw type . We have both the single and the dual stage . There is no comparison that dual is heavy and really chucks the snow. Remember that picture of Thirdroc throwing snow OVER the garage roof, The single stage will plug up more in the spring time wet snow.

Randy

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Fixer my thrower is screw type . We have both the single and the dual stage . There is no comparison that dual is heavy and really chucks the snow. Remember that picture of Thirdroc throwing snow OVER the garage roof, The single stage will plug up more in the spring time wet snow.

Randy

Thanks! I think I will try and PU a 2 stage but may have to resort to useing the single till one comes along. I'm sure I will need to get some wheel weights and I may want to do the Motor mod anyways on the chute just to see how it works. If ya know of anyone who has a screw type 2 stage Im interested. :drool:

[Kelly 1,028]

I have a uncle that has a 2 stage blower he wants to sell, get with me.

[Operator 7]

Picture is on it's way Duke , winding through thewires as I type. Feel free to put it on here if that is possible.

Randy

[KyBlue 652]

Yeah Duke, put it on here, cuase I'd sure like to see it... even thou I dont have a blower...still like to see new Idears!

[wallfish 15,907]

3) The blower I have is a cable type drive to rotate the shoot are the notch screw type more dependable and operate better? And has anyone done any mods maybe like with electric gear motor or electric or hydraulic cylinder to drive the shoot left or right? I thought that would be a pretty slick mod.

I put a 12vdc gear motor on mine for the chute and it works a lot better than the crank.

[Suburban 550 28]

Duke, Here are a few pics of my 1972 Raider with a 42" single stage snowblower. The cab I built for it is made out of 1/4" lexan, featuring a opening windshield with a 12 volt electric windshield wiper, roof lights, and a side entry door. The back of the cab I left open to prevent fogging. As far as heating there is some heat that enters the cab from the engine and never had a problem with fogging of the cab windows. As far as overloading the electrical system, never had a problem with it, either. Good luck on whatever you decide and if you need advice you know where to find me.

Here are a few pics of the Christmas Storm of 2002 with it in action:

[Bow_Extreme 523]

I also have the 520H complete with cab and snowblower. The heat from the engine keeps the cab nice and toasty just like zieg mentioned. Zieg, the 2 stage 44" blower is worth the money. I can throw snow 60-80 feet with mine with no problem. I guess I don't know about the lights. I use the headlights and they work fine. I've thought about addingf some LED lights of some sort but haven't got that far yet. The one major problem with the cab is getting it off. Even if you setup to just pull it off the tractor from the top and drive out, it's still alot of work and that cab is actually very heavy. Just my $.02

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Thanks to all of you Blower Wizzards! You guys are the BEST! Lots of good info and Ideas. Since most of the time I have slacks and polo shirt on for work I hafta get all suited up or change clothes before or after work to blow the drive. Getting a rig all fixed up with all the groceries and battle armor on to keep me warm will be a big plus! This will cut the chore in half, and keep me warm all at the same time. Kelly call me, I am interested maybe we can work something out!

I plan on integrating all of your Ideas!

1) Two Stage Blower.

2) Electric Screw Motor for chute left right.

3) Electric Actuator Motor Chute up Down.

4) Light Bar Made From Aluminum, With Strobe For Safety On Top Of Cab Also

Two Overhead Lights Mounted On Top Of Light Bar.

5) Replace Cab Window With 1/4" Scratch Resistant Lexan With Frame

For Easy Replacement.

6) Wiper Motor For Front Window.

7) Fresh Exterior Air Heated Off Of Cowling With Inline Fan Directed

At Front Window. This should pressurize the cabin And prevent Fogging.

8) Interior Lights.

9) Wheel Weights Rear. Maybe Rack With Suitcase Weights?

10) Drink Holder, Curb Feelers

And yes you know me I will post pictures. Looks like this project will be starting right after the show. Will get back on the 701 project after this is complete.