1985 416-8

[Prater 75]

After browsing all the hard work everyone puts into their Wheel Horse I decided to clean the freebie up a bit. It will be a long process as its not my main hobby yet, but nonetheless I figured it would be fun to share.

Made some room in the garage

Pulled off the deck. Not sure how the cutting deck size is determined but it measeured 48" not including the discharge .

I still need to find an upper console, some lug tires, and a new muffler. I have a 36" tiller attachment on the way. Plans are to use this horse as a tiller.

[bk-scouter 93]

Well, from what I see in the picture, looks like you have enough tools in those boxes to get get her all fixed up! Nice zero turn by the way.

You've got to tell us what you have parked in there next to your machines. The shape of the fenders looks to be a classic car.

I know,

-BK

[kpinnc 10,678]

If your ID tag is still on the deck, it will have a number similar to 05-48MS03, and all the newer style decks have that number scheme. Some of the numbers will vary, but the size will be in there. Again, this only applies to the newer ones. You'll usually see the deck size in it, whether it be a 36, 37, 42, or in your case, a 48 inch deck.

Good looking 416 BTW...

Kevin

[Prater 75]

Well, from what I see in the picture, looks like you have enough tools in those boxes to get get her all fixed up! Nice zero turn by the way.

You've got to tell us what you have parked in there next to your machines. The shape of the fenders looks to be a classic car.

I know,

-BK

BK,

The other project in the garage is my wifes 1966 Mustang. She wanted one since she was 14 so I found one fer her. Its Whibleton White with Teal interior.

My main project for the year(s) is this 1985 Formula 357 SR1

[Rollerman 290]

Steve the Mustang is nice but now I have some serious boat envie going on.

That thing makes mine look like a row boat!

You'll be happy with the 416 8 speed for tilling.

I have an 85 vintage 416 8 I till with & doesn't even sweat doing it.

[Duff 206]

Sorry to go , but that Formula 357 SR1 sure is a sweet looking boat. I've got a little Bayliner 185BR with a 4.0 Chevy V-6, and I thought I had it pretty good. Your machine is, well, AWESOME! What will that thing do speed-wise?

Oh, and yes, really nice 416, too!

(Along with the Mustang!)

Duff :drool:

[Prater 75]

Duff,

I hav had her to 77 on the GPS. Not bad for 12K pounds of Old School wave jumping.

[bitten 133]

Nice toys.

Is the formula 357 rated as gallons per mile?

P.J.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Nice toys.

Is the formula 357 rated as gallons per mile?

P.J.

Nice looking TOYZ! Sharp boat and Stang.

I would say the boat is rated in Gals per minute! :drool:

[Prater 75]

The boat uses around a gallon or two per minute at WOT...LOL

[bk-scouter 93]

nice 'Stang, and boat !!

The formula must sound awesome idling down a channel. I'm digging the superchargers too...

-BK

[Prater 75]

I figured one of the first things would be to put a stack on the exhaust. i think its one of the coolest looking mods that other members have done. The old exhaust was stuborn. it has probably been on and leaking at leat half the life of the tractor. It has a few holes in it and leaks around the head. The bottom bracket bolt came right off...the two on the head were not as easy. I soaked them all day and was able to get the top one off, but the bottom broke off. Even broke a good american made easy out off in it. Cant even drill into the easy out, so my mods changed a bit. I will be using the NPT threads to hold on a new adapter plate instead of the bolts. I have a bunch of things laying around so I started digging. I have some mandrel bends from a header kit that I never used and some 1/2 1018 steel. I did buy a rain cap at TSC for less than $10. here are some steps I have done so far.

Old Exhaust

Some items to start with

Cutting a couple of 3" by 3" steel plates. One will be the threaded adapter and the other will have the 2" exhaust pipe welded on. I read a lot of people end up loosing their stacks because of the vibration. I opted for 1/2 inch plate instead of 1/4 to give it a bit more rigidity.

I will be bolting the plates together with 3/8-16 bolts so I drilled the two plates and will be tapping them tomorrow after work. I also drilled a centering 1/8 inch pilot.

[Prater 75]

The exhaust port on the head was looking rough. No telling how long it has been leaking, it really cut some groves in the head. I planned to use the old bolt mounting locations but I dont think I could get a good seal with the groves cut in the head, and I cant even drill into that easy out...

I will get the adapter plate drilled and tapped for the NPT threads and use a short piece of threaded pipe that will be hiden by the adapter flange. I will have to offset it about 1/2 inch so the linkage will clear.

Here are the two flanges on the head, just using magnets to hold them in place while I get an idea of the offset.

Hope to get back on it tomorrow. I dont have a NPT pipe threader so I will have to find someone close to get that part going for me...

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,034]

Prater,

Looking good. If you want to sell that muffler, pm me. I could always use a spare for my sister tractor of yours. Thanks-

[Prater 75]

Stevebo,

when I am done with the header and make sure its right I will try and remember to contact you. It has a few holes that need to be fixed...I could not ask an money for it.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Looks like that aught to get the job done! :omg:

[Prater 75]

A few things done tonight.

I tapped the holes for the bolts. I should have used 5/16 bolts instead. The 3/8 are a bit overkill.

I cleaned up the edges with a file

I measured the pipe angle to clear the hood. Looks like 70 degree will put the pipe where I want it. i set up the drill press and cut a new pilot hole for the 2" hole saw. I need to change the pilot hole tomorrow though. I need to offset to compensate for the new angle cut...

Looking at these pics I notice a lot of surface rust on my tools. My shop's roof at the old home collapsed during a rain and soaked everything. I sure do need to get out of the cramped garage though...Maybe next year will be a barn raising photo opp...

[Butch 194]

I'm a little confused. You threaded the plate so I'm assuming the new muffler/stack pipe will attach to it with a flange that has 4 holes. How is the plate

mounting to the cylinder/exhaust port? Are ya gonna use the same 4 holes in the plate to run bolts through into the cooling fins or are ya welding the plate on? :omg:

[Prater 75]

Butch, the adapter plate will thread into the NPT exhaust port. I would have used the two original mounting threads but one is broken off and wont come loose and I would have to repair the burned out exhaust area on the head. Using the NPT threads will be easier on this engine. If using the existing mounting threads I would have made a template on the adapter to match the exhaust port and drilled the two holes. I then would have countersunk a hole big enough for an allen head bolt to clear the surface of the flange.

I will be drilling a 1.5 inch hole in the adapter plate and threading it with 1 1/4 NPT. I will use a short threaded pipe to hold the adapter plate to the engine block.

[Prater 75]

A little more work done tonight.

I drilled the flange for the header pipe with a 70 degree offset. that will let the 2" header clear the hood. I had to recenter my pilot by moving it 62 thousandths to the shallow angle side of the plate to get the pipe centerline correct. I did not get it exact, but close enough.

Checking the fit of the header pipe

I then set a new center for the 1 1/2 hole for the adapter plate so it would be clear and not interfere with anything on the motor. Only thing left for it now is getting it threaded to 1 1/4 NPT

The Header flange and adapter together, still wishing I would have went with the 5/16 bolt and spaced them closer to the outside edge of the flange.

Once I get the adapter threaded I will cut this pipe down and use it to hold the adapter on the engine

Header Flange and adapter in position, and just checking clearance for the header pipe

Not much more to go...Anyone close have a 1 1/4 NPT pipe tap?...LOL

[gwgdog66 23]

Partner,

You have some skills there The plate won't get in the way of the govenor arm travel will it?

[Prater 75]

Partner,

You have some skills there The plate won't get in the way of the govenor arm travel will it?

I left about 1/2 inch clearance between the governer arm and the plate. I am new to these beasts so I hope the arm only travels towards the carb...Can someone clarify that for me?

[linen beige 14]

Cant even drill into the easy out, so my mods changed a bit.

All of your work looks top notch but I gotta ask. Why not just slowly heat the easy out/bolt to remove the temper and then drill it out?

[Prater 75]

Mainly because my torch is in storage. I have mapp gas in the garage and will probably remove the bolt but that still leaves the area needing repair where the leaks have cut into the block. If I was going to modify the engine and port the intake and exhaust it would be very important to use the bolts to mount it. But this is mainly for fun and looks so the NPT threads and pipe will be more than adequate.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Oh I see now what yer up too! I was wonderin what the double wammie was for! A picture is worth a 1000 words, reminds me of someone else I know! :drool: