who am I, help

[SimonC 35]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

I believe that there are separate windings on you stator. 1 set for the ignition and 1 set for charging.

I'll take that as a "possible" indicator that something's working in my flywheel/stator current state

 

thanks!

[pfrederi 17,129]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

I believe that there are separate windings on you stator. 1 set for the ignition and 1 set for charging.

 

The are independent and can fail independently.  Do yo have spark??

[SimonC 35]

5 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

The are independent and can fail independently.  Do yo have spark??

yes, engine runs fine (for it's age :p) 

[SimonC 35]

6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

The are independent and can fail independently.  Do yo have spark??

dont burst my bubble lol I'm trying to be optimistic

 

[Achto 26,519]

Looking at the pic that pfrederi posted. I circled the part of the stator that appears to run the ignition. The rest of the stator is used for charging.

Edited September 14, 2018 by Achto

[SimonC 35]

1 minute ago, Achto said:

Looking at the pic that pfrederi posted. I circled the part of the stator that appears to run the ignition. The rest of the stator is used for charging.

ok then, at least the magnets in my flywheel must still be glued properly otherwise that would also not work.

[Achto 26,519]

2 minutes ago, SimonC said:

yes, engine runs fine (for it's age :p) 

 

2 minutes ago, SimonC said:

lol I'm trying to be optimistic

 

Remain optimistic until testing has proven otherwise.

[pfrederi 17,129]

The picture is of a 15 amp stator  The 10 amp looks different but same concept

[SimonC 35]

On 9/12/2018 at 9:45 PM, WHX20 said:

Set the meter to the 200 ohm setting and read through the two wires and let us know what the meter says. I'm not sure what the specific resistance of this coil should be. Next read each wire to the engine block to check for shorts to ground. Ther should be no meter reading at all or infinity. Repeat with the meter set on the 2000k setting. 

Important. ..do not let the wires touch with the motor running. You will let the smoke out of the charge coils if this happens.

Next with the motor running and the meter set to the 200 volts ac position (Second to the right from off) see what the voltage is at idle and WOT (wide open throttle). Again not sure what this particular coil will put out but others will. Usually between 20 and 40 volts ac. It helps to have a second set of hands for this or alligator clips on the meter leads.

Again DO NOT let the wires touch with the motor running. 

If that passes You can go one step further and connect the wires to the two OUTSIDE  terminals on the regulator and with the motor running  check the output of the regulator by reading from the center terminal to ground with the meter set on the 20 VDC position. 3 clicks to the left from off. You should get a reading that varies with engine speed but no less than 12 volts or no more than 14  volts. If all is well you can wire the center terminal on the regulator to the battery per the wiring diagram and repeat the test. One more thing make sure the regulator is securely grounded to the tractor and back to the battery. This is very important as well. My guess is ther is a fault somewhere ...a PO usually doesn't cut and tape those wires off for the fun of it.

alrighttttt.  

 

so I tested the resistance between the two leads and get a small reading, no reading for each lead to the block.

I then tested the AC voltage at the two leads while engine is running and I get 20V.  

 

so either someone who had no clue (like me initially) just botched a repair job and decided not to reconnect the regulator, or the regulator itself was defect and they just decided recharging the battery or having lights wasn't needed.

 

----------------------

 

I also decided to take the carburetor apart as I wasn't fully satisfied with how steady the engine ran at high rpm.  There is a spacer plate between the engine and the carb, not sure why, however the carb side gasket was decent, yet the other side of that plate had none... the air filter side gasket is also broken (not as critical).

 

the carb has a few numbers on it, one is 676704, another is 303 and I see a 39 also.  I can't seem to find any reference using those number on the internet.  I'm on the fence between replacing (just checked, average seems to be pretty expensive) it or thoroughly trying to clean it and reinstall with new gaskets.

 

last point for now, I also uninstalled the snow blower that was on it, the lift bar was attached to the lift arm using a nut and nylock, this is clearly not factory, I'm guessing this is normally only attached using a pin and cutter pin, if someone has a picture of what it normally looks like I'd appreciate, getting it removed was pretty painful.

 

thanks !

Edited September 14, 2018 by SimonC

[SimonC 35]

am I missing a jet ? i didn't remove anything other than the o-ring, metal float and needle from inside the bowl.

[SimonC 35]

just noticed the throttle butterfly is not where it should, not sure if I did it removing or not, just moved it back (that's how much slack there is in the exterior part).

 

would explain why my idle was so high

Edited September 14, 2018 by SimonC

[pfrederi 17,129]

There should be a spring on the throttle butter fly shaft  Spacer provides clearance from the block for the throttle linkage.  Should have a gasket on both sides.

 

Techy carb main jets are usually in the fuel bowl see picture 2

[Achto 26,519]

Just checking in to see if you have made any progress.

[SimonC 35]

On 9/19/2018 at 7:32 AM, Achto said:

Just checking in to see if you have made any progress.

5 kids 10 and under, slow progress.. 

 

I relocated the solenoid from where the original throttle usually goes.  I also took the old regulator off, Pretty obvious that this one's life is done.  see picture.  ordered a replacement (which is much smaller).  

 

I have my replacement carb, just waiting for my fel pro material to cut the missing gasket before I can install it.  in the meantime I have been working on trying to get my mower attached, it came with it, but clearly was never used on it...

 

also going to reroute some of the hoses and redo the wiring for the regulator.  very slow progress, I just hope I can at least mow once with it before snow falls, 1 celcius this morning, winter is coming.

 

 

[SimonC 35]

Hi,

 

finally getting around to re-wire some of this stuff.

 

moved my solenoid properly.

 

attached my new regulator and wired the two AC leads to it.

 

Now I'm looking at my key switch labels and I'm confused.

 

my key switch has the following: 

 

B G S L M

 

Where am I supposed to hook up the DC lead coming from the regulator ? 

 

all I read and schematic I can see have the R lead which connects to the regulator...

 

thanks

Edited September 30, 2018 by SimonC

[pfrederi 17,129]

15 minutes ago, SimonC said:

Hi,

 

finally getting around to re-wire some of this stuff.

 

moved my solenoid properly.

 

attached my new regulator and wired the two AC leads to it.

 

Now I'm looking at my key switch labels and I'm confused.

 

my key switch has the following: 

 

B G S L M

 

Where am I supposed to hook up the DC lead coming from the regulator ? 

 

all I read and schematic I can see have the R lead which connects to the regulator...

 

thanks

 

 

You can wire it to the L terminal.    You want a terminal that is only connected in Run position.

[SimonC 35]

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

You can wire it to the L terminal.    You want a terminal that is only connected in Run position.

so here's the current status.

 

I have over 20V AC between the two leads coming from the generator

I have tested my regulator metal body against the tractor ground with no issues.  I also dont fully trust the screw to provide a proper ground so I have a lead going from one of the mounting screw directly to my battery negative side.

I have 0V DC reading when testing the middle lead against the ground

 

other than coming with the conclusion that the regulator is possibly defect, are there other things I can test ? 

 

----- edit

with the key in the ON position, shouldn't I get 12v DC at the middle regulator lead provided by the battery ? 

 

------

 

thanks

 

Edited September 30, 2018 by SimonC

[Achto 26,519]

1 hour ago, SimonC said:

have 0V DC reading when testing the middle lead against the ground

 

You will need to have it connected to a battery for it to work.

 

Also I would try to find a switch that has an I on it instead of a M. The switch you have is for a magnito style ingnition. You can use the one you have but do not connect anything to the G or M terminals.

[pfrederi 17,129]

31 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

You will need to have it connected to a battery for it to work.

 

Also I would try to find a switch that has an I on it instead of a M. The switch you have is for a magnito style ingnition. You can use the one you have but do not connect anything to the G or M terminals.

I have to disagree this is a techy solid state ignition you do not want an I terminal.....

[pfrederi 17,129]

2 hours ago, SimonC said:

so here's the current status.

 

I have over 20V AC between the two leads coming from the generator

I have tested my regulator metal body against the tractor ground with no issues.  I also dont fully trust the screw to provide a proper ground so I have a lead going from one of the mounting screw directly to my battery negative side.

I have 0V DC reading when testing the middle lead against the ground

 

other than coming with the conclusion that the regulator is possibly defect, are there other things I can test ? 

 

----- edit

with the key in the ON position, shouldn't I get 12v DC at the middle regulator lead provided by the battery ? 

 

------

 

thanks

 

You should if you have the regulator wire plugged into the ignition switch in the R or failing having that the L or A terminal. In run the switch should connect B to the A L R I terminals.  You sure about your switch>??

[Achto 26,519]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I have to disagree this is a techy solid state ignition you do not want an I terminal.....

 

That's right. I should have read back & brushed up on the post. Darn C.R.S.

 

Good catch @pfrederi

Edited September 30, 2018 by Achto

[SimonC 35]

So you guys are confirming that there is no diode in the L leg on those switches that would prevent the 12v from travelling back from the battery ?

[pfrederi 17,129]

25 minutes ago, SimonC said:

So you guys are confirming that there is no diode in the L leg on those switches that would prevent the 12v from travelling back from the battery ?

Never say never..do you have continuity between B L in the run position??? If so no diode  never heard of one in the switch itself.

[SimonC 35]

So if there is no diode, my switch might be defective then. 

 

Out of curiosity, why would the regulator need 12v DC to work ?

[SimonC 35]

Also, I guess I should be able to confirm that the regulator is working by hooking up the battery positive directly to the DC lead on it....

 

If that works it would point the finger at the switch.

 

That's one thing that isn't rusted out lol.