Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bo dawg

Steering wheel help

Recommended Posts

bo dawg

Ok 2 questions.

I want to pull the steering wheel off of the D-160, so I removed the nut and don’t see where there is a pin to knock out. Looks like it just pulls right off. By the looks of the neversiege on it it’s been off recently. 

 

Also what originally is the color of the horse head and wheel on the button? Red right?

0604F789-A20E-490D-B30D-47C210157B37.jpeg

6BF49E52-B90F-4339-AA60-F4778705B549.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Marv

The shaft is splined so there is no pin. If you are lucky it should pull straight up and off. You may have to lift on the wheel and tap the shaft a little. If you do be sure to put the nut back on first. If you have to rap hard use brass hammer. If the never seize is on the splines it should co,e off easily.

Marv

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

That model uses a Ross steering box - unless you want to break it, do not use a hammer on the shaft - it can shatter either the worm gear or the housing. You'll need to use a bearing splitter and beam puller, if you don't have one most auto parts stores will loan them for free as long as it's returned in one piece. If you work on things like this, or gears, transmissions and the like - a bearing splitter kit is a great investment.

 

5b925be37ca04_20170701_2126431.jpg.2023fd6d77fe580cf87fe7164598f5c0.jpg

 

5b925c1698800_20170701_2126341.jpg.33df6b8c1ea580a5aba82f4b35f73e4a.jpg

 

I use the OTC kit like this and it works on nearly anything - including those pesky rear hubs.

https://www.otctools.com/products/7-ton-bar-type-pullerbearing-separator-puller-set

 

Sarge

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

Sarge is so very right!! Do not hit the shaft, blowing the end out of the Ross box is NOT good - it is aluminum and couldnt stand a blow. Besides that puller he shows is a quick and easy way to get it off, they CAN be stubborn.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg

Wow... all I want to do is pull it off to clean it up and take dash apart to paint. Lol!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
59 minutes ago, bo dawg said:

Wow... all I want to do is pull it off to clean it up and take dash apart to paint. Lol!

 

 

Nothing absolutely nothing on a D series is ever really easy....

  • Like 3
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer
15 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Nothing absolutely nothing on a D series is ever really easy....

 

Hah Hah woooeee, aint that the TRUTH!!:-o:-o

 

But thats OK -- dont try and take my Big D's from me!!:angry-nono::angry-nono:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg

I tried a few times to smack up on the wheel and all that happens is hurting my hands. Lol!

i sprayed some blaster on it several times. Let her sit while I look at a puller. Or maybe just leave on and paint around it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg
13 hours ago, Sarge said:

That model uses a Ross steering box - unless you want to break it, do not use a hammer on the shaft - it can shatter either the worm gear or the housing. You'll need to use a bearing splitter and beam puller, if you don't have one most auto parts stores will loan them for free as long as it's returned in one piece. If you work on things like this, or gears, transmissions and the like - a bearing splitter kit is a great investment.

 

5b925be37ca04_20170701_2126431.jpg.2023fd6d77fe580cf87fe7164598f5c0.jpg

 

5b925c1698800_20170701_2126341.jpg.33df6b8c1ea580a5aba82f4b35f73e4a.jpg

 

I use the OTC kit like this and it works on nearly anything - including those pesky rear hubs.

https://www.otctools.com/products/7-ton-bar-type-pullerbearing-separator-puller-set

 

Sarge

 

What do I need to put steering wheel back on after I pull it off? Just push it back on till the nut will thread it on down?

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

Yeah, replacing it is as simple as that - just drop it back into the splines (line it up with your knob or ?) and run the nut up......

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
11 hours ago, pacer said:

Yeah, replacing it is as simple as that - just drop it back into the splines (line it up with your knob or ?) and run the nut up......

 

 

And Never Seize...lots of never seize

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

Don't be afraid to clean those splines on that shaft, either - I use a hardened steel pick and an aggressive Pipeliner style wire wheel to clean parts like that before re-assembly. Permatex anti-seize is a must as well.

Hitting that wheel, either upward or downward will drive the bearing races hard enough into the Ross housing to crack/shatter it - don't ever hit one.

 

If you did hit it - I'd highly recommend removing the box from the tractor and spend the time to clean it up - that thread I wrote details the parts available from JD to rebuild that box, along with the correct thrust bearing to help it steer much easier and live longer. There is also a gentleman on eBay that is machining custom replacement studs for the gear drive out of correctly hardened steel - for a few bucks the effort is definitely worth the reward here. After fixing up the steering box and new bearings, etc in the front axle - mine steers with one finger regardless of the ridiculously heavy front blade, or anything else. Even with those wide ag tires up front, it steers easily on hard pavement. The race bearings in those Ross boxes are nearly identical to old bicycle headstock bearings for the front forks - they are not very heavy, either - so a rebuild is a good idea. It's only a few bolts, one is a bit tough to get to but worth the effort. The box will drop right out the bottom and it helps to have another pair of hands to guide it into place during reassembly. I think the total cost of the bearings and good Mobil grease was less than $30 total unless you need to replace that center pin.

 

For some reason, I can't find that thread on rebuilding the Ross box - it's around here somewhere...

 

Sarge

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg
2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Don't be afraid to clean those splines on that shaft, either - I use a hardened steel pick and an aggressive Pipeliner style wire wheel to clean parts like that before re-assembly. Permatex anti-seize is a must as well.

Hitting that wheel, either upward or downward will drive the bearing races hard enough into the Ross housing to crack/shatter it - don't ever hit one.

 

If you did hit it - I'd highly recommend removing the box from the tractor and spend the time to clean it up - that thread I wrote details the parts available from JD to rebuild that box, along with the correct thrust bearing to help it steer much easier and live longer. There is also a gentleman on eBay that is machining custom replacement studs for the gear drive out of correctly hardened steel - for a few bucks the effort is definitely worth the reward here. After fixing up the steering box and new bearings, etc in the front axle - mine steers with one finger regardless of the ridiculously heavy front blade, or anything else. Even with those wide ag tires up front, it steers easily on hard pavement. The race bearings in those Ross boxes are nearly identical to old bicycle headstock bearings for the front forks - they are not very heavy, either - so a rebuild is a good idea. It's only a few bolts, one is a bit tough to get to but worth the effort. The box will drop right out the bottom and it helps to have another pair of hands to guide it into place during reassembly. I think the total cost of the bearings and good Mobil grease was less than $30 total unless you need to replace that center pin.

 

For some reason, I can't find that thread on rebuilding the Ross box - it's around here somewhere...

 

Sarge

 

 

 

Good info Sarge. I appreciate the knowledge. This is my first D and I’m learning a lot. I didn’t really hit the wheel or shaft I just had my palms open and smacking upward a few times to see if it would even try to move. Then i stopped. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

Good deal - that Ross is pretty fragile as far as the housing goes. Read up on the thrust bearing upgrade, it really helps. Also, I'd say about 75% of them that any real hours of use have bad bearings and it's hard to detect it just by feel. Once apart, most of them have broken the ball retainers and mine had once race that was cracked as well.

Another tip - for any wheel that uses a center cap - it's a good idea to drill some drain holes on the outer perimeter of the cup where the nut sits, water can get in there from both rain or washing and rust things up nicely. D's, C's and other models - there is room to bore a few holes at a slight angle and keep them hidden from the outside, just drill the holes from the inside of the cup through the bottom. I was a little surprised the factory didn't cast drain holes to start with, probably something they just hadn't considered being a problem later on. Then again, I doubt they ever planned a 50+yr lifespan on these machines.

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bo dawg
2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Good deal - that Ross is pretty fragile as far as the housing goes. Read up on the thrust bearing upgrade, it really helps. Also, I'd say about 75% of them that any real hours of use have bad bearings and it's hard to detect it just by feel. Once apart, most of them have broken the ball retainers and mine had once race that was cracked as well.

Another tip - for any wheel that uses a center cap - it's a good idea to drill some drain holes on the outer perimeter of the cup where the nut sits, water can get in there from both rain or washing and rust things up nicely. D's, C's and other models - there is room to bore a few holes at a slight angle and keep them hidden from the outside, just drill the holes from the inside of the cup through the bottom. I was a little surprised the factory didn't cast drain holes to start with, probably something they just hadn't considered being a problem later on. Then again, I doubt they ever planned a 50+yr lifespan on these machines.

 

Sarge

 

Makes a lot of sense for sure. I'll have to study how to get to the box and take it off to check for those things. Lol! Shoot I haven't had the tractor that long, and learning so much. I'm excited to play with it but also excited to work on it too.

I work 2nd shift and all I want to do is sleep. Lol! 

Let me know if you find that thread on rebuild, that would be great to read.

Edited by bo dawg
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...