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FatJackDurham

K241 Starts then dies out

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FatJackDurham

So, I have replaced the points, solenoid, carburetor (twice), coil and condenser. I now get snappy spark, but when I start the engine it runs loud and fast at first, then slowly bogs down and dies.  I thought it was the point, but I sorted that out and even after it dies, the spark is snappy.

 

Feels like a fuel issue, but I can't figure it out. I set the screws on the carb to the setting recommended in the manual, but it doesn't run long enough or steadily enough for me to figure out if it's rich or lean.

 

Basically it starts, using choke, and throttle on full. Then, choke in, it roars up and runs for about ten seconds, then just dies. If I pull the choke out quickly enough, I can get a few sputter ons, same if I work the throttle. After that, nothing.

 

Carb is new, I reset the jets after the first couple attempts, but I haven't checked the float. Last time I checked the pump I was getting good flow.

 

Spark plug indicates it might be rich, but again, it doesn't run long enough to be sure. Thoughts?

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RandyLittrell

Have you cleaned the tank and replaced the fuel lines? That is a good place to start. If you just put.a carb on, it will plug right back up.

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

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953 nut

Fuel starvation for sure, if the pump is delivering good flow the I would suggest the float is set far too low or the needle valve is not  opening far enough.

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rmaynard

I'm putting my money on a weak fuel pump or clogged strainer in the tank.

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FatJackDurham

Thanks all. I will really dig into it this weekend. I filled the tank up with clean gas and changed the filter.  It ran pretty well at low idle now, but as soon as I tried to crack the throttle, it dies. I fattened up the low idle screw a little and got a little better response, but not enough to run at open throttle. 

 

I'll order a pump rebuild kit and check the float this weekend. I get pretty good fuel flow out of the line with gravity feed, but I'll try to drain and clean the tank too if I have to, I just hope I don't have to.

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FatJackDurham
 
timo4352

I just had a similar problem that popped up on my tractor out of the blue....would idle fine but die out when I tried to throttle up...

Found out my positive battery cable just about fell off in my hand when I touched it. The terminal was just plain worn out.

A new terminal solved the problem.

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FatJackDurham
39 minutes ago, timo4352 said:

I just had a similar problem that popped up on my tractor out of the blue....would idle fine but die out when I tried to throttle up...

Found out my positive battery cable just about fell off in my hand when I touched it. The terminal was just plain worn out.

A new terminal solved the problem.

 

Okay. One more thing to check.

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FatJackDurham

I think I am back to electrical. The fuel pump is definitely ok. It pump a coke bottle full in nothing flat while the engine was running on the bowl.

 

Bowl float was a tad low but not terrible. It was 16/64 and I set it back to 12/64.

 

The tractor idles fine, and sometimes runs strong, but then dies. I hooked up a tachometer to it, the kind that wrap around the plug wire. When the engine dies, it seems to completely stop reading, like there is no spark. All the wires seem tight, but I wasn’t sitting on the seat, so if the PTO switch is causing problems again, it would act like the PTO was engaged and maybe cut the spark. I’ll try again tomorrow morning. I think i’ll Jumper from the + side of the battery straight to the + side of the coil, so that none of the safety switches will be in play. IF it runs without issue, then I’ll say its a rattle switch or bad wire and tear back into the electrics again.

 

It tasks me......

 

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953 nut
29 minutes ago, FatJackDurham said:

act like the PTO was engaged and maybe cut the spark.

Jack, two things to test here. First, remove the wire to the condenser and start the engine. It will run without the condenser (but not forever) and if it is bad the problem will go away. Second, run a small jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal directly to the coil "+" and that will take the safety switches out of the equation. 

If neither of these work for you it could be your points need to be set by static timing.

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rmaynard
12 hours ago, FatJackDurham said:

What is the giant C-clip for? 

It is used as a tool for attaching and removing the fittings on the pump.

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FatJackDurham

Okay, thanks for all the input. I was right about the PTO switch. A little judicial persuasion on the bracket solved that. Tractor runs now. Bogs down on rev up, and seems to run a little fast, so I think the timing or fuel settings are not exact, but it works well enough to drive.

 

Except it doesn’t.

 

Time for a new thread in the transmission forum....

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