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CountryRock

Briggs & Stratton L Head 11HP Stalling

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CountryRock

Today I worked on the running GT2500 that I picked up a few weeks ago.  I put fresh fuel and a fuel filter on and replaced some of the fuel line.  The engine runs good at wide open throttle and at idle, but anywhere in the middle it will stall out.  What could be causing this?  I am planning on taking the carb apart in the future for a thourough cleaning and rebuild, but I did put some seafoam in the gas today.

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953 nut
8 hours ago, CountryRock said:

taking the carb apart in the future for a thourough cleaning

That, a new spark plug and cleaning the points should be the first things you do.

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CountryRock

I did change the plug.  Completely forgot about points though.

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oldredrider

Briggs went to the Magnetron ignition around 1982. Your engine may not have points. Check the code (date) on the shroud for the model year. 

If it says "Magnatron" on the shroud, there are no points. 

I upgrade older Briggs engines to the magneto style to alleviate points problems.

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CountryRock
27 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

Briggs went to the Magnetron ignition around 1982. Your engine may not have points. Check the code (date) on the shroud for the model year. 

If it says "Magnatron" on the shroud, there are no points. 

I upgrade older Briggs engines to the magneto style to alleviate points problems.

It's a 1981

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CountryRock

Update.  I tweaked the carb adjustments a little and it runs much better.  I don't think I'll mess with the points for now.

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gwest_ca

Just a heads up and you may already know it.

The high speed nozzle must be removed from the carb before you can separate the two carb halves. It can be a bear to remove without the proper tool and often ends in a damaged carb. The nozzle screws into the lower half on an angle and extends into the upper half. Being on an angle prevents the separation.

Hope the Seafoam works for you.

If you ever want to drain the float bowl just back out the high speed mixture screw about 2 turns and remove the fitting it screws into and it will drain. When you reinstall the fitting it may not end up at exactly the same depth. That is the reason for backing out the mixture screw first. It can't bottom out in the nozzle and get damaged.

 

Garry

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CountryRock
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Just a heads up and you may already know it.

The high speed nozzle must be removed from the carb before you can separate the two carb halves. It can be a bear to remove without the proper tool and often ends in a damaged carb. 

Yup, I watched some videos on how to do it.  As luck would have it, I got a freshly rebuilt carb from the person I bought the tractors from about 4 weeks ago, so if I have any future issues, I'll swap it out and rebuild at my convenience.

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CountryRock
On 8/27/2018 at 11:58 AM, oldredrider said:

Briggs went to the Magnetron ignition around 1982. Your engine may not have points. Check the code (date) on the shroud for the model year. 

If it says "Magnatron" on the shroud, there are no points. 

I upgrade older Briggs engines to the magneto style to alleviate points problems.

I decided I'm going to convert to Magnetron ignition by changing the coil out for the newer style one.

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