Removing The Flywheel screen

[pfrederi 17,128]

I am trying remove the flywheel screen on a Kohler 12 k301.  Al 4 of the Philips head screws are frozen.  I have soaked them with various witches brews heated one and wailed away with my impact driver and a BFH.  All I have accomplished is to ruin the cross pattern.  Heads are to small with slanted sides for vice grips so I filled opposing flat spots and got a good grip.  Problem is when i try to turn it the engine turns over.  It is a hydro so there is no way of putting it in gear and setting the brake.

 

So obvious would be to wedge something in the flywheel fins or use a strap wrench to hold it....but you cannot remove the air shroud with out removing the screen first.  I do not want to but I am thinking i may have to remove the belt guard  and belt and see if i can get a strap wrench on the pulley.

 

Any other ideas????

Edited August 26, 2018 by pfrederi

[Sarge 3,462]

I built a flywheel holding bar that uses the later engine's starter mounting bolts for the exact same reason. On starter-gen models, it's a lot tougher to accomplish, but I have had luck just using the Bosch 18v impact driver. It's too late for yours, but one note is to use JIS #3 cross-head drivers instead of Philips. By design, Philips screws are meant to be torque limiting, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) cross heads are not and meant to be used with a torque wrench. The best part of JIS - they will engage a Philips head so well that can snap the screw off pretty easily, or it will just break loose. Either way - you win.

The point you're at now - it's just easier to use a good quality HSS drill bit or carbide burr and remove the heads on the screws. Once that load is removed, the remaining shank should just screw right out. I've had a few that just plain wouldn't budge, not even using the red & green wrench and heating the cast iron after burning a section of the screen out - drilling was the only option at that point. 

 

Sarge

Edited August 26, 2018 by Sarge
grammar

[AMC RULES 36,941]

I've had some luck backing them out...

using a chisel, and tapping them counter clockwise along the edge on the head of the screw.  

[daveoman1966 3,586]

Presuming there is some of the head remaining, use a thin-blade die grinder tool and cut a straight slot across the head.  Then, with a broad square-shank (STEEL) screwdriver, put a wrench on the shank.  You MAY be able to use a broad-tip screwdriver socket on an impact wrench...not sure.  I that doesn't work, and harsh language fails too, cut the head again at 90 deg and the head will come off in pieces...  

 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

1 hour ago, AMC RULES said:

I've had some luck backing them out...

using a chisel, and tapping them counter clockwise along the edge on the head of the screw.  

With a lot of penetrating lube 1st!!

[pacer 3,159]

" using a chisel, and tapping them counter clockwise along the edge on the head of the screw. "

 

I also prefer Craigs method using a chisel.... Then on going back I either use machinist button head screws or - more preferably - flange head screws as replacements. Course often times will have to add a flat washer since the screen is often mangled

 

Dang we could almost place these things in the removing steering wheel/axle hubs as "most irritating"

[pfrederi 17,128]

Victory!!   Tried the impact driver again no joy.   I was able to get a strap wrench around the PTO friction disk.  Filed flat spots on all of them and with vice grips and holding the strap wrench got them all out!!!

 

Thank you all for the ideas...

 

[Skipper 1,788]

Would have suggested to weld on a nut, and use an impact socket wrench gun thing (dont know the right name as you can guess) 

 

Good thing you got it loose!