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FatJackDurham

This pony is THIS CLOSE to being spare parts!!!

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FatJackDurham

Soooo frustrated! This tractor seems to have a pathological fear of being running. First the starter, then the points, then carb... Now, new carb installed points and timing set, new plug, ready to go... After days of turning over fine, suddenly, nothing when I turn the key. Fuse, fine. Nothing. I can start the tractor by jumping the motor. Well, at least the engine now runs like a champ. Anyone need a 10 HP cast iron Kohler? make an offer.....

 

Sigh. I guess its time for me to explore the darker side of Wheel Horses. Electrical.

 

 

47EA03B8-69C0-485E-B5BA-1C218587590E.jpeg

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gwest_ca

Pto lever all the way back? 1/2 of the pto switch controls the starter circuit.

Clutch pedal down?

Does your model have the low oil switch? That prevents starting if the oil is low.

 

Garry

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FatJackDurham

Has all of that. I am starting at the beginning because if I fix one thing I’m sure the other will break. 

 

I pulled the key key switch out, cleaned the contacts and continuity tested each spade. The key switch is good. I may need to rebuild the connector. What kind of inserts are those? Packaged something or other? I bought a bag of them when I fixed the rectifier plug on my GT14. Are they the same?

 

Tomorrow, I’ll check the individual safety switches, then start on the full circuit path. 

 

This is horse is messing with me. What every new fix, something else breaks. At least it hasn’t been costly so far.

Edited by FatJackDurham

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KC9KAS
7 hours ago, FatJackDurham said:

Packaged something or other?

PACKARD 56

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FatJackDurham
3 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

PACKARD 56

 

Thanks, do you  know what gauge? I see 12 and 18 

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KC9KAS
8 hours ago, FatJackDurham said:

 

Thanks, do you  know what gauge? I see 12 and 18 

The wiring on our Wheel Horse tractors is mostly 14 gauge wire, but I don't know what gauge of connectors and ends I purchased.

I will try to check on what I bought.

I do have a tendency to "overkill" on wiring and building material, and welding, and.....etc., etc..

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FatJackDurham

Any guesses on which safety switch is broken? PTO? Pedal Interlock? Seat?

 

ALL OF THEM!!! .... Now, anyway.

 

The seat switch fell apart in my hands as i was removing it. The pedal interlock was stuck closed, so it wasn’t the issue. THe top tine of the PTO safety switch pops up above the PTO arm. That was what was killing the start. 

 

Despite the corrosion, all of the switch connections actually work. However, I’m planning to sand all the spades, and replace all the females anyway. I think I can slightly bend the tine on the PTO safety so that it works right. THe other two, I’ll have to replace.

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gwest_ca

Did you figure out how to remove the female Packard terminals from the plastic body they are in?

 

Garry

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FatJackDurham
3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Did you figure out how to remove the female Packard terminals from the plastic body they are in?

 

Garry

 

Yes, thanks. I learned that before when I worked on another tractor

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FatJackDurham

Sigh. This tractor really is a whiner. Its got a leaky transmission now. And, after fixing all the switches, suddenly, it won't spark again. I had to replace the carb again, the replacement had a stripped bowl screw and it leaked. Once the new carb was on, it ran, then slowly stopped running, then stopped sparking. Since I only filed the points before, I am going to replace the points, condenser and coil, just in case. 

 

Can someone confirm the Kohler carb adjustments? I see 2 turns for low idle, 2 1/2 for the Main? 

 

This really has to be it. No chance of selling for a profit now, these don't sell for that much. I see another one with a wagon and deck for only $275 on CL, so I'm already into this one for about $200 not including the deck.

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gwest_ca

The carb screw settings that Kohler recommends should allow the engine to start and run but it won't run right.

You have to adjust for best idle and high speed and do both a few times as one affects the other.

If you get to that point and it stumbles on acceleration from idle richen the low speed a bit to eliminate that.

 

Clean the contact surfaces of the new points before putting the cover on. They often have an oil on them to prevent corrosion in the box.

 

Garry

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FatJackDurham
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

The carb screw settings that Kohler recommends should allow the engine to start and run but it won't run right.

You have to adjust for best idle and high speed and do both a few times as one affects the other.

If you get to that point and it stumbles on acceleration from idle richen the low speed a bit to eliminate that.

 

Clean the contact surfaces of the new points before putting the cover on. They often have an oil on them to prevent corrosion in the box.

 

Garry

Hmm. That must be what the cloth they come with is for.

 

I hope this is the end of the drama.

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